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About Morning Oregonian. (Portland, Or.) 1861-1937 | View Entire Issue (Jan. 1, 1902)
THE MORNING OREGONIAN, WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 1, 1902. stable lavas and basalts -which generally form Its bed. At the International boundary the hills are close to the river on both side, with little or no bottom land, and this con tinues to be the case, more or less, all the way up In British Columbia to the Canadian Pacific crossing: at Revelstoke. The hills gradually Increase In size and grandeur until at Revelstoke they assume the height of mountains. Descending the river, the hills decrease in height until at Little Dalles they take the' shape of ele vated terraces, which, when cleared of timber, make productive farms. Near the boundary line the Pend d'Oreille River, or Clark's Fork, enters the left bank of the Columbia, flowing over a ledge of rock 16 feet in height, which extends clear across from bank to bank. At the high-water stage the Columbia rises above the level of the Pend d'Oreille, backs it up, and not a vestige of the waterfall a to be seen. As soon as the boundary line is passed, coming down river, level terraces com mence, and, with the exception of a few places, continue all the way, either on one side or the other, and very frequently on both. They range from 300 to G000 feet In width, and are composed of excellent soil for farming purposes, orchards and vineyards, for which also the climate is admirably adapted. The Spokane River seems to be a natural division between the timbered land to the north of It and the untlmbered land to the south. South of the Spokane River the country is prai rie, sometimes rolling and in many places terraced up and back from the river, showing the different heights of the bot torn of the river in bygone ages. The av erage height of the prairie when first It becomes prairie is 1000 feet above the river. It then rises as it recedes. From measurement made as near low water as practicable, and making due al lowance for a further fall to low water, it has been ascertained that the low-water flow In this portion of its course is about 50.000 cubic feet per second. In the same manner, by measuring the flow as near high water as practicable, and allowing for additional elevation to full high water and Increased velocity, it has been deter mined that the high-water flow Is about 300,000 cubic feet a second. Throughout, with but few exceptions, there Is ample depth for all purposes. Between the boundary and the Okanogan River there are 30 principal obstructions to naviga tion. From the mouth of the Okanogan to Colilo the distance is 334. miles. Of this .stretch, the CS miles from tho Okanogan to Wenatohee arc navigable. The stretch of 57 miles from "Wenatchee to the head of Priest Rapids, and the" stretch of 19S mllos from the foot of Priest Rapids to Celilo, arc navigable under favorable con ditions. Between them are Priest Rapids, where for 11 miles navigation Is ob structed by a series of rapids seven in numbor. From the boundary as far south as Priest Rapids the river flows at a level of several hundred feet below that of the plateau it incloses. Over this whole reach and as far down as the foot of Priest Rap ids there is no flood plain. The river is still expending all its energy in cutting downward. This, taken In connection with tho fact that outside of flood stages the river carries but little sediment, would eeem to Indicate that the average slopr of thc( bed Is considerable. Tho reach oi river extending from the head of Rock Island Rapids to the foot of Priest Rapids, a distance of GO miles, covers a line along which the Columbia has cut Its way through a broad spur of the Cas cades. Steamers have made the run be tween the Okanogan and Pasco, but it is a hazardous undertaking. Between Celilo and The Dalles are 13 miles of obstructed river, and from The Dalles to the mouth of the Columbia 190 miles of open river, made open by the completion In 1S96 of the canal and locks at the Cascadest Portland's Position Strengthened by Development. There have been many changes in the period covered by river improvement on the Columbia. Colorado, North Dakota, South Dakota, Montana, Washington, "Wyoming, Idaho and Utah, all Western States, and all buyers of the products of Oregon, have been admitted into the Union since the Cascades locks improve ment was projected. Five great transcon tinental lines the "Union Pacific, the Southern Pacific, the Great Northern and the Canadian Pacific have built their roads Into the basm of the Columbia, either on the American or the British side, and all of them are in Portland. Two of the lines, the Union Pacific and the South ern Pacific, have been merged Into the Harrlman system, which recognizes the Columbia River as constituting, with San Francisco, Its chief ports on the Pacific Coast. The closing months of the year found the Northern Pacific seeking inde pendent terminals at Portland. Water navigation has ceased to be the main method of transportation! Land once thought to be sterile is planted in cereal crops, orchards and vineyards. There have been, in fact, too many changes to enumerate, but they have not affected Portland's position. It Is today, as it was In the time of the stage coach and the steamboat, the leading city of the North west, the center of finance, commerce, education and population. When the Northern Pacific was completed, a little over IS years ago, the prediction was made that it would not be long before Tacoma would be the metropolis of the Northwest, but In the decade ending with 1900 Tacoma failed to hold her own in Washington with Seattle, to say nothing about con tending with a stronger and greater city than Seattle, for supremacy in the' North Pacific When the Southern Pacific was finished In 1BS7 some said that the rail line would take all the profit cut of the ocean route, and that the San Francisco mer 'chants would drive Portland out of South em Oregon; yet the ocean steamers are still running, and Portland holds her own in Southern Oregon, and manages also to sell quite a bill of goods to Callfprnia In competition with San Francisco. The same argument was heard when thp Ca nadian Pacific was built, but Portland has lost nothing. When the Great Northern was built, thp Puget Sound towns began a scramble for Portland's trade in East ern Washington, but they have not cap tured it yet. and one walking the streets of Tacoma or Seattle may see n front of the stores piles of boxes, bales, bags and crates bearing the trade-mark? of well known Portland firms. Commodities that cannot get shlproom at Portland are shjpped in vessels from Puget Sound, and enter largely Into the foreign and coastx wise trade of that customs district. Se attle and Tacoma are in the foreign ship ping business in wheat and flour, but Portland still enjoys the hulk of that trade. No addition to the material wealth of the Northwest, no matter where made, has Interfered with the growth of Portland. Every railroad built, every steamer launched, every foot added to the chan nels of the rivers, every orchard planted, every foot of ground cleared, every manu facturing industry started, every building erected, every store opened, every dollar brought Into the country, no matter where or by whom invested, has added to the growth and prosperity of Portland and contributed to make her more secure In her position as the chief city of the Northwest r OREGON TO THE HOMESEEKER The Two Principal Advantages, Says Governor Geer, Are Reasonably Cheap Lands and the Certainty of Crops, THE advantages which Oregon offers to homescekers are many, but the two principal ones are reasonably cheap lands and the certainty of crops, two essentials not to be overlooked. While good land already in cultiva tion beara a fairly good price, there are thousands of acres of the most productive land In the state yet Jn Its virgin condition, covered with timber and brush, easily cleared, and waiting for a greater population to bring It Into the uses of civilization. Considering that Port land baa been growing for DO years, and that It is now o city of nearly 100,090 people, It seems Incredible that as soon as you enter its suburbs In leaving by either tho southern or western route, you at onco begin to travel through thousands of acres of the finest lands to be found anywhere, but which are covered with brush and timber which would readily yield to the efforts of the industrious homobullder. In all parts of what Is called the foot hill country adjacent tothe Coast and Cascade Mountains there are each year cleared and reclaimed hundreds of acres of land, which .requires vastly more labor than would easily transform the timber and brush lands near Portland into The most productive and attractive farms. Certainly, much of this land must be held for higher and speculative prices, for it must be equally sure that, lying as it is, no Income whatever Is realized by Its own ers. This condition Is always noticed by visitors. Is a source of Inquiry as to Its cause, and really gives an unfavorable Impression to many who pass through our state on their Western tours. Those of us who have lived here since the beginning have become so accustomed to traveling through the woods by rail nearly half the way from Portland to Salem, or from Portland to Hillsboro, that we accept It as a matter of course and as a permanently established condition so firmly established, in fact, that many of our people seem to be fully convinced that there Is very little room for any considerable Increase in our population. The fact Is that It Is possible for the Willamette "Valley to" sustain a popula tion fully Ave times as great as that which it contains today. The time is coming when the entire country from the Cascades to the Coast Range, and from the Columbia to beyond Eugene, will be an unbroken panorama of splendid farms, equaled in no other part of the United States for either the beauty of its land scape or the fertility of Its soil. Perhaps no state In the Union furnishes a better object lesson as to the possibili ties of applied effort In the matter of res cuing lands from the encumbrance of a heavy growth of timber than Ohio. When first taken possession of by the early set tlers that state was an almost unbroken forest of walnut, hickory, oak and other timber, difficult to remove from the land, but today It is next to impossible to And an acre of land within Its borders that Is not in cultivation, save only the acreage of timber necessary for domestic uses. To be sure, Ohio has been settled more than twice as long as has Oregon, but the re sults brought about there within a hun dred years only go to show what possibil ities are In store for our own state within the next few decades. Taking Ohio as a sample of many of our older states, It shows what three generations of men can do, and what three generations may and will do for Oregon. We have ample room for hundreds of thousands more people than we have at present, and when they come and become a part of us, and not until then, we can reasonably hope to per manently reach that degree of business life and prosperity which marks the east ern half of our country. But population, without other consider ations, Is not all. There Is population and population. Coxey's army, or the ma terial that would make one. Is not want ed. It requires people who are not afraid to work to make a new country and to properly take care of an old one. More people like those of the pioneer age of Oregon are wanted, men who will adapt themselves to the necessities of their sur roundings and are willing to carve them selves homes from the abundant material which a bountiful Nature has furnished. To the pioneers thousands have since joined themselves, but there Is room for hundreds of thousands yet who are will ing to labor in a country where the land Is always productive and where the recur ring seasons pever fail to respond to the efforts of the Industrious husbandman. CnpnblltteH of Oregon. It Is entirely proper to say, because truthful, that no section of the United States, offers such an encouraging pros pect for the investment of capital as does the Northwest Coast, and especially Ore gon. No other state can furnish such a variety of raw materials for the manu facture of the very manufactured pro ducts we consume, neither can any state be mentioned which Is a greater consumer or user of the necessaries an.fi luxuries of life, according to its population, than ours. If one steps Ipto an ord.innry hardware store, for lnstar.ee, wherfe there arc thou sands of articles of everyday use, more than 99 per cent of them will be found to have been manufactured elsewhere and Imported to us. The material for their manufacture can be fdund, as a rule, in abundance within our borders, yet, for reasons not altogether easily understood, we continue year after year and, what is worse, decade after decade, to buy abroad In apparently undiminished amounts. Scores of articles made entirely of wood are sold to our peoplB in generous quanti ties, while the entire western portion of the state abounds In several varieties of hard woods. There Is no doubt that Iron and coal abound Jn our mountains espec ially, and no doubt in many other portions of the state jn great quantities. In fact, these two specially staple minerals are known to exist in many localities, and it only remains for those who have idle money waiting for profitable fields for In vestment to turn It Into these most profit able sources of revenue. Why capital seeking for remunerative employment hps so long neglected this promising and undeveloped field has been a source of wonder to our people. Year after year we send to other parts of the United States millions of dollars for manu factured products, paying the freight tharges for several thousands of miles, and the labor entering iqto their produc tion, while the material used In their man ufacture Is in many cases more plentiful within our midst than where they wore made. This is Industrial suicide, and could not long be maintained except In a coun try of boundless resources. But even this country cannot always prosper under such perversion of natural economic laws. Hap pily, circumstances now prevailing and prospects in view seem for thp first time in our history to promise relief from this custom- or condition, which leads surely to Industrial atrpphy. The clouds which have so long retarded our development along this line are already lifting, and each effort mad bv oijr neonie to spread abroad in our owtveountry the opportuni ties for the investment of capital In manufacturing enterprises serves to bring nearer the time when we will buy less from other states and sell them more. This realization will, it appears to me, be tho first and most Important factor leading to the lift ing up of our state to that standard of in dustrial and commercial activity which permanently characterizes the older set tled portions of the United States. Orrgroa Reeds MaaafsetvrlBgr. This state needs, first of all, manufac turing establishments enough to produce all the articles we consume that are com posed of materials which we possess with in ourselves. It really needs thU mora than It does more people to engage in ag ricultural pursuits. The system of send ing all our money away for the purchase of articles we can as well make at home Is a form of Industrial tuberculosis that leads to but one termination. No commu nity can permanently stand up under Its exhausting consequences. But the opportunities existing here for capitalists who are looking for them can only be made to attract public attention by attracting public attention to them, and this Is not done In the most cffectlva manner by Eaylng nothing about the sub ject. Nothing the state has ever done j has been so Instrumental In helping In I this direction as our exhibits at Eastern j expositions. When the casual and proba- visitor at Buffalo saw a salmon which weighed 50 pounds or more, he had abso lute faith that Oregon had salmon that weigh 50 pounds: whereas. If he had mere ly seen a statement to that effect in some paper he would be quite likely to conclude that It was the exaggerated advertisement of some professional boomer. From a merely utilitarian point of view nothing is truer than that "advertising pays"; but no kind of advertisement pays so well as an actual exhibit. Incidentally, it may be here remarked that the State of Oreson has never under taken a public enterprise so far-reaching In its beneficial results as the proposed Lewis and Clark Centennial. To be sure, the state has not yet Indicated Its purpose to assist this patriotic as well as com mercial exposition, but that it will cannot be doubted. The state can well afford to be liberal, though guarding against ex travagance. In the support of yie effort to celebrate this great anniversary, for the reason that the money spent In that di rection will be returned In after years a hundred fold. It will attract thousands of visitors hither, and, since "seeing is be lieving," it will be a master stroke in di recting the very best class of ordinary homeseekers as well as capital this way. For Instance, there is no greater Industry awaiting the future development of Ore gon than that Involving the conversion of our vast forests into merchantable pro ducts. This state at this time has a greater area of untouched first-class tim ber than any other In the Union. From this time on it Is certain to be a wonder ful source of revenue to the people of the state. As wo look at this sea of virgin timber it is almost a cause for regret that itxshould not be allowed to stand, but It isonly when removed and converted Into the usesof man that It Is of any value whatever,, except as a necessary portion of It is used as reserves. Its value consists wholly In using It, but all the publica tions yet Issued concerning the excellence of our timber resources are not to be com pared as to their effectiveness In attract ing attention this way with that partic ular log at Buffalo which measured nearly SO feet In length and something like three feet square. There were two sawed planks there 73 feet long, 20 Inches wide and two inches thick, without a knot In them. That was more of a curiosity and of really greater value to visitors than all the buildings combined, and which consumed millions of dollars, the tangible disappear ance of which the stockholders are sin cerely mourning. Suggestion for the 1005 Fair. The Lewis and Clark Centennial mana gers may take a hint from this experi ence, and squander very little money on Ane buildings. These can be seen at any time every year In Ronjo, London, Chica go, or even In Portland. People do not care for fine buildings. They can be built in any country with money, and do not in any way show in what manner that country exceeds any other. Nothing that can be devised would bo more attractive and unique to visitors to our Centennial than one or more log-houses built en tirely of our mammoth logs. It would be something new and educational at the same time. The Umber resources of Oregon are not confined to any one section, for both the Eastern and Southern divisions of the state are blessed with heavy and valuable timber belts. There is no better field for Investors anywhere than in these last named sections, not merely n timber re sources, but In many others. The pre cious metals, especially gold and copper, abound here in great quantities, and countless fortunes are yet to be made In their discovery and utilization. These will require effort and a certain degree of risk, but great fortunes have always been maa'e only under these very conditions. No fact can be more certain than that Immense ledges of valuable minerals are lying un discovered in many parts of Eastern and Southern Oregon, where thousands of men now drifting idly through life, com plaining of lack of opportunities to "do something," might be profitably and use fully employed. At the last session of tha Legislature that body accepted tho offer of the general Government to undertake through individ ual or corporate agencies the reclamation of large areas of arid land In Eastern Oregon. If this results successfully It will largely Increase the population and wealth of that Immense and valuable section of cur state. It s In a measure experimental, but Is well worth a fair trlaj, though alrea dy the attempt to divert the water from streams that have been for many years used for irrigating purposes by stockrais ers gives promise to regretful litigation. Here are two conflicting interests In the same section of the state, but In the out come the success of tho reclamation of vast arid regions must depend upon water secured from other sources than the streams which have been uued for years by prior settlers. The ultimate solqtlgn of the attempt to reclaim arid lands In large quantities will undoubtedly be through the storage system of surplus wa ters, but It will be an Important feature in the development of the eastern section of our state. The value of the different kinds pf pro ducts of Eastern Oregon has grown to Immense proportions, and has not by any means "reached Us growth," Through all the years since its first settlement it has been seriously handicapped by Its distance from the seaboard and, the consequent cost of transportation to market of Its products. This has In many Instances amounted to a practicable embargo. Grad ually this condition has been Improved, but relief will only come through a con tinuously opek river from Lewlston to the sea. This will give a water level grade to the sea for many parts of Eastern- Ore gon and a great measure of relief to all of It, and la a proposition of such great importance that It has the support and encouragement of every citizen of the en tire state. Stale ilRR Prorats-lai? Fatsre. Not to oe tedious, then, It can be gener ally said that the future of our state is most promising. Eastern Oregon will al ways be a most desirable location for per manent homes, for It is great agricultur ally, for mineral deposits and for grazing, although, as It seems to me, the Interest of the latter Industry cajls for a persist ent and earnest protest against the leas ing of the public domain, for grazing pur poses. Southern Oregon has a most equa ble climate and Is specially adapted to the raising of various kinds of fruits as well as for its great agricultural and mineral resources. The Willamette Vol ley is tjoted for Its varied resources agri culturally and In its possibilities In the line of frult-ralslng, and In addition will tome time bo one of the most prosperous dairy countries In the United States. Its climate and soil form a combination In this respect not to be surpassed In tho world. All sections of the state have won derful possibilities In the way of manu facturing facilities, not only as to raw materials, but when considered in respect SECOND DRIVER OF The Columbia and Its Principal Tributaries Have 2132 Miles of Navigable Water. AN ESTIMATE by Captain "W. W. Harts, United States En gineers, of the volume of water flowing in the Columbia River Is Interesting, In comparison with the volume of the Missis sippi at New Orleans. Captain Harts made his observations at The Dalles. At low water ho found a flow of 103,000 cubic feet per second; at high water. 1,600,000 cubic feet per second. At low water the discharge at New Orleans Is 250,000 cubic feet per second; at ordinary high water, 1,000,000 cubic feet, and at extreme high water 1,200,000 cubic feet per second. To these figures from 10 to 15 per cent should be added for the flow through the Atchafalaya. This estimate as to the Mississippi i9 from Johnson's Cyclopedia, copyright 1804, complied from the "Journal of the Association of Engineering Societies and Other Sources." The mean annual discharge of the whole Mississippi Basin into the Gulf of Mexico, including that by the Atchafalaya and bayou out lets, is estimated at 675,000 cubic feet per second. It is larger, proba bly, than the mean annual discharge of the Columbia Basin, but not greatly larger; for the Columbia flows at low-water etae not more than two menths In the year, and at the high-water stage It carries a greater volume than the Mississippi. Below the Ohio the Mississippi gains little In volume, losing by seepage and evaporation about as much as it receives from Its lower affluents. The flow of the St. Lawrence much exceeds that of any river In North America. Various authorities agree that the mean annual dis charge Is In excess of 1,000,000 cubic feet per second. The volume at Niagara Is estimated at 390,000 cubic feet per second. It varies little throughout the year, since the Great Lakes above regulate the volume and give it an even flow. NAVIGABLE WATERS. The Columbia Itiver Itself. Miles. Mouth to Willamette River 102 Mouth Willamette to The Dalles SS The Dalles to Celilo, obstructed for 13 miles Celilo to Priest Rapids 193 Foot Priest Rapids to head rapids, obstructed 11 miles Head Priest Rapids to Wenatchee ; 57 Wenatchee to mouth Okanogan River- .'. 68 Mouth Okanogan to Spokane Rapid3, navigable at great risk only; a distance of 109 miles ". Spokane Rapids to Rickey's Landing ...., 56 Rickey's Landing to Marcus, Wash., not navigable, 11 miles Marcus to Robson, B. C C3T RobEon, B. C. to Arrowhead Landing, B. C. 124 ; ' Total navigable waters, main stream , 75G THD MAIN TRIBUTARIES. - Snnlce River. ; Miles. Mouth to Rlpar.'a ." 67 Riparla to Lewlston .7. .- 73 Lewlston to Grand Rondo River 25 Grand Ronde River to Ballard's Landing, obstructed 173 miles Ballard's Landing to Huntington 75 Total navigable waters, Snake River 240 "Willamette River nnil Tributaries. Miles. Mouth to Corvallls 113 Corvallls to Eugene 53 Tualatin River, mouth to- head navigation 25 Yamhill River, mouth to McMinnvllle IS Long Tom River, mouth to head navigation . 10 Total navigable waters, Willamette and tributaries 224 Other Tributaries, Columbia River. Miles. Clatskanle River, navigable on tide above mouth 3 Lewis River, mouth to La Center , 7 Cowlitz River, mouth to point 10 miles above Toledo 40 Lake Chelan, Lakeside at foot lake to Stol ''kin 50 Pend d'Oreille River and Like. Lakevlew to Box Canyon 116 Box Canyon to Metalline, navigable at high water at great risk only, a distance of six miles Cocur d'Alene, Lake Coeur d'Alene City to head lake 21 Coeur d'Alene River, mouth to Mission Landing 32 Upper and Lower Kootenai Rivers, Golden, B. C, to Jennings, Mont.. ..253 Jennings to Bonner's Ferry, not navigable, 75 miles Bonner's Ferry to head Kootenai Lake , ,...239 Nelson to mouth at Robson, 25 miles, not navigable ...? Okanogan River, mouth to international boundary S7 International boundary to Pentlcton, 37 miles, not navigable Pentlcton to Okanogan Landing 55 Total navigable waters, other tributaries .- 912 The total navigable waters of the Columbia and its tributaries aggre gate a mileage of 2132. , Parts of the Columbia and Its tributaries marked thus () are navi gable under favorable conditions. Practically all these stretches of river could be made open for boats at all seasons of the year at comparatively small expense, should traffic conditions render this Improvement neces sary. The Columbia and Snake Rivers, for Instance, were formerly navi ?;ated throughout the year, except during occasional blockades from Ice. rom Celilo clear through to Lewlston. It will be noted by report that part of Snake River from mouth to Riparla, is now marked, "navigable under favorable conditions," 9-0-- HMHMHHtHM8MHHM to the generation of cheap power. The day Is not far distant, certainly nearer than most of us mny suppose, when every waterfall which Is now merely a thing of beauty adorning our mountain sides everywhere will be utilized In propelling the wheels of vast manufacturing con cerns. Who knows but that within the lifetime of some of us the Immense and practically inexhaustible water power at the da)lcs and Cascades will be used for propelling the dally railway trains from Portland to Huntington? Stranger things have happened within the past 20 years, and wllj happen within the next. There is enough power of this kind going to waste In Oregon every day to drive all the fac tories In the Mississippi Valley, and yet the great and populous states, comprising that magnificent country have not enough water power to satisfactorily propel a threshing machine. Oregon ha not only the- power to run a great number of In dustrial entarprls.es. but raw materials to supply them. No state In the Union Is so capable of manufacturing (Jevelppment on a large scale. It is clear that a great In dustrial era Is dawning for this Ktatc. The great markets opening up to us In the countries west qf us across the sea, and which are now In their Infancy, arc yearling for the products of our state whose manufacture Is patiently waiting for ap answer to our earnest appeal for recognition, as we Invite Eastern capi talists to "come West" and give us that helping hand which, at this stage of our arrested development, will not only repay them, but will make a stronger argument to present to the farmer, horticulturist, miner and all other classes of home builders who, in the aggregate, make a cultured, contented and prosperous com monwealth. T. T. GEER, Salem. r GARDEN SPOT No Place So Homelike as the Willamette Valley Large De velopment Must Result From General Forward Movement ARTICLES descriptive of the physical characteristics of the valleys of tne Nile, the Jordan, or the Mississippi, which fall to give some of tha history which has made those valleys famous in the history of the world, would fall either to interest or Instruct. The same Is true concerning the Willamette Valley, situated taetwecn the Cascade Mountains upon the east and the Coast range on the west. It represents, with its connecting valleys, an area of 5000 or C000 square miles of the moat productive of sedimentary soils, yielding liberal crops In response to the labor of the husbandman In nearly all the products essential to a comfortable existence. Tho climate Is temperate and not subject to cither Intense heat or cold. The annual precipitation of moist ure is sufficient to make sure the claim that crops never fall In Oregon. This villey, which Is one of tho picturesqus and beautiful spots of earth, was at one time nearly all thai was known of the Oregon Country, which covered a region now constituting threo of the States of the American Republic. The settlement of this valley and sub sequent political subdivision Into coun- THE UNITED STATES T --9 j ties enabled mankind to appreciate Its I extent md deflnp. Its nartlpular nlane In j !ic Oregon territory. I will not assume j to write the history of this valley by the light of prehistoric evidence as the scien tist has discovered It written In Its ceo- L logical formations, and stamped upon Its once buomergea rocKS ana peaxs. it win be enough for present purposes to review some of the natural conditions and po tent Influences that have, In their opera tion, deyeloped the present and pros pective political, social and commercial Importance of this portion of our Na tional domain. As a result of exploration by the authority of our Government, and tho enterprising trader and trapper. It became known that there was a valley of vast extent, fertile In character, and beautiful for situation within Its moun tain environments, lying In the North west territory over which National title was yet Jn dispute. This was about all that was known about Oregon by the ad venturers and enterprising settlers who left their homes In the East and trav ersed the almost trackless plains and mountains lying between the Mississippi and the Pacific to secure a home In this beautiful spot. Trials of the "Soonen" of 1843. With that early immigration and occu pancy of this valley begins a portion of our history which has been left for later generations to arrange with reference to the Importance of Its bearing upon our National nnd state life and character. The privations they endured, the institu tions they established, and the success to which they attaine'd In laying founda tions upon which to erect the highest or der of family, community and state life Is something which has but recently de ceived the attention which Its superior character deserves. The Oregon Histori cal Society has begun the work of collect ing material that Is yet In existence In documentary records, and rpminiscimt narrative from survivors of the early set OF THE WORLD j tlement of the Willamette Valley. Every lover of Oregon will be deeply Interested in the accomplishment of this work, and find In the quarterly publications of this society much that will enlighten and stim ulate admiration for the character or those early settlers. Our forefathers who came In the May flower and established a settlement on this continent came as the subjects of Great Britain, to settle upon territory to which the mother country held undisput ed title. The first settlers In the Willam ette Valley knew not what the termina tion to a controversy between England and the United States might be concern ing title to all that region west of the Rocky Mountains and north of Califor nia. Undaunted by such a situation, they took claims and went to work like the true representatives of a democratic gov ernment, not doubting but they would ul timately be taken Into the sisterhood of states and become a part of tho American Union. In 1843 when there were but a few hundred settlers nearly equally di vided between Americans and those hold ing allegiance to other governments, a Provisional Government was established by a small majority agreeable to the dem ocratic policies of the United States ovr those of other nationalities. This win loyally sustained by the Americans and respected by those of other nationalities. Thus, for a period of nearly six years the settlers maintained a little democracy of their own until the settlement of title and the act of Congress of 1819 providing a territorial form of government went in to effect. In all these proceedings there was a devoted loyalty to the spirit of equallty among men and the right of choosing forms of worship suited to their own conscience and intelligence. Various sectarian jealousies were apparent, but they met these by diplomacy so skillful that a spirit of fraternity was fostered where bitterness might have been. Development of Institution!. We are justly proud of the Willamette Valley and her institutions, but we must not forget the heroic and sterling char acter of her beginnings. Existing con ditions, from the formation of the tlrst government to tha present time, afford all necessary evidence that, while the set tlers of this valley were bending their backs toiling for the requisite shelter and the means of sustenance for themselves and their families, their minds were also struggling with the problems that should determine the moral, social and commer cial destiny of the people who had, or might In time to come, choose a home among them. Opposition was. and always will be, met against a policy so gener ous by those whose only mission in life seems to be to keep things just aa they had them when they were young; bqt this did not deter the laying of the founda tions of our institutions, or their support by those who knew that the American youths would require better things just as fast as they came In sight. As the needs of the settler grew into the noeds of tho community, and then tho state, cities and villages equal to the demands of a thriving people sprung into being, churches were organized and fraternal societies were established In the Willamette Valley before Congress assumed to prescribe and administer the laws. Today there is probably no place in the world where Institutions for the moral, fraternal and Intellectual develop ment of the people hold so large a per- centage of the population In their mem berships. The school, academy, college and university came as fast as there were children and students to need them. These are so distributed that no place Is far remote from the enjoyment of their benefits. From liberal sowing and care ful cultivation, a civilization has grown up which Is remarkable for symmetry In all Its parts. Tho teacher, philosopher and scientist Joined hands with the forces In agriculture, mechanics and the arts, thus perfecting a harmonious union, which will continue to conquer all ob stacles limiting human knowledge or op portunity. What once seemed Insur mountable obstacles to the settlement of this region have all been overcome by people who think while they toll. En gineering skill has scaled or tunneled through mountain ranges to reach a re gion of such vast productive capacity. The Atlantic and Pacific are bound to gether by bands of steel and the elec tric cable, and we are brought Into com munication with all parts of the world. Modern Tendencies in Oregon and the Nation. Industry, under Intelligent direction and Integrity of purpose, has accomplished what in any other time previous to the last half century would stand among the wonders. There seems to be an Inevitable destiny attending the activi ties of Amorlctn brain and muscle which no man may assume to change or hiu der. The union of forces that have .bean developing the resources of this valley will continue until 10 husbandmen will flourish where now there Is but one. The vaht timber resources which were once considered worthless for want of mar ket are receiving official care to protect them from the ravages of the hunters' and cimpers torch. The mineral wealth of our hills and mountains will be brought forth by a union of capital and labor, which Is everywhere making tho discovery of Its presence. Our Increasing commerce Is attracting the attention of Congress, and demand ing the Improvement of our rivers and harbors, enabling the ships of the world to anchor within them and receive the cargpes prepared by our Industry from the vast resources of the Northwest, for distribution to all parts of the world. To any one disposed to regard the signs of tho times, this is no optimistic picture. At the northern limit of this valley, the great commercial city of Portland, with an enterprising population of 100,000 peo ple, has grown under influences before enumerated, bringing It into its position among the great export cities of the Union. Herp we are placed In touch with the activities of the world through a daUy newspaper which has but few equals In America, Iri discerning and supplying the needs of the people with a knowledge of the Important Bvents of each day. What the future may bring forth Is clearly foretold in activities and conditions re sulting from the Irrepressible tendency of American enterprise to develop resources and have something to selL The great commercial Interests of this Republic are beginning to look westward from our shores for routes by which to reach the markets of other continents and islands. These are tendencies that are awakening the Industrial Interests of this Nation to an understanding of the necessity of an isthmian canal to meet the demands of a mighty commerce between the west coast of the United States and Oriental countries, which now seems one of the assured conditions of the future. Some may yet be disposed to resist Its construc tion because It would be chiefly beneficial to the Interests of this coast, but that delusion will soon pass away whpn man ufacturers Oi. the products they buy from us, and the merchants distributing tha goods we buy from them, discover the necessity of either moving their manu factories and warehouses to this coast, and shipping through our harbors, or building that canal, even though they are required to build It themselves. Iotv I the Time for the Homeaeekcr. Conditions resulting from Influences now In operation are speedily carrying us on ward to & realization of our magnificent re-sources and enlarging opportunity. "Where rolls the Oregon and hears no sound save Its own dashing" was appro priately written three-quarters of a cen tury ago, but now we hear the Inspiring sounds of human activity constantly swelling in volume by the instruments' of Industry and commerce, moving In obedi ence to the demands of Increasing popu lation and production. There never was a more auspicious time than the present. and no place of which we have any knowl edge that offers greater inducement for settlement than Is offered here. Here Is a situation that Is fast becoming more central In the business intercourse, that is rapidly growing between the nations of. the world. Here we find a civilization abreast with the best thought of the world, ready to do Its part in lifting all mankind to higher .standards of charac ter and usefulness. Seekers for homes where they may secure them at a price that must certainly advance under the de velopment which is going on. a place where they may secure religious, Intel lectual and social advantages of the high est standard, can find no other place whero their desires can be so nearly filled as in the Willamette Valley in Oregon. S. M. YORAN. Eugene, Oregon. BENTON COUNTY. Wide Ranee of Productive Pursuit Offered to the Honicseeker. Benton County, comprising an area of 440.000 acres of land, lies in the center of the famous Willamette Volley. To the north is Polk County; to the south is Lane. The Willamette River, navigable for 40 miles above Corvallls, the county seat, forms the county's eastern bound ary, and the summit of the Coast Range mark3 Its western limit. From the river the land stretches In bottom land of sandy loam and prairie of black alluvial deposit back from 10 to 20 miles to the foothills, then rises over hillside and bench lands of brown and red loam to the high mountains. Tho silicious matter of all Benton County soils is basaltic, and as basalt bears a majority of the constituents requisite to fertile soils, it follows that our lands- have a natural and abiding fertility. Under her favorable conditions of soil and the In comparable climate, common to the entire valley, Benton offers to tho intelligent and energetic man an exceedingly wide range of productive pursuits. Agriculture, the chief Industry of our people, Is engaged in throughout the coun ty. Wheat, oats and barley yield from 20 to 60 bushels per acre of very plump and. heavy grain, oats not Infrequently weighing over 40 pounds to the bushel. The crop of these cereals for 1001 aggre gated considerably over 1.000,000 bushels. Corn grows luxuriantly and much of It Is raised for silage and green feed, but as a grain crop it is not widely grown. Hops of the finest quality are grown at the minimum cost. Four hundred acres of yards In the county produced last year about 250,000 pounds of cured hops, all of which rated first class. Experiments with flax show this plant to give a remark able growth of straw, carrying a fine, soft fiber of excellent quality for tho manufacture of fine linens. The clovers and grasses grow remarka bly well and yield Immense crops. It Is ngt uncommon for a farmer to harvest four tons of clover hay to tho acre. A field of 40 acres a few miles south of Corval lls yielded last year 120 tons of hay and 160 bushels of seed, the product of the field being worth approximately 51SQ0. An other farmer grew 108 tons of timothy hay on 20 acres, and sold the product at a figure which yielded him ?59 4u per acre for the 20 acres. Potatoes grow to perfection and in fa vored localities yield from 300 to 500 bushels per acre. Field root crops, such as mangels, carrot3 and turnips, produce from 20 to 40 tons of excellent stock feed to the acre. Garden vegetables of all va rieties produce excellent crops of supe rior quality. Tho horticultural interests of the coun ty are large. All the fruits of tho tem perate zone are grown Here with a pro fusion which astounds the man from the East or Middle West. The leading com mercial varieties of apples, such as the Spltzenherg, Spy, Baldwin, Ben Davis, Red-Cheeked Pipln and Rambo, grow to full maturity and have excellent color and flavor. These bring top prices in the markets of the world. The pear find here a moet congenial Jiome. Our Bart letts and Fall Butters are prime for des sert, and for canning and Winter use the Winter Nellis is superb. Cherries yield abundant crops of excellent fruit. The Oxheart. Royal Anne, Black Republican, Governor Wood and Late Duke produce excellent results. Plums of all klnd3 grow In the greatest abundance. The principal horticultural interest of the county is prunegrowing. There are In the county 1300 acres of bearing or chards, valued, with the accompanying evaporating and packing plants, at 5300. 000. The leading commercial varieties of this fruit are the Italian and the Petite. The Benton County Prune Company har vested last year from their 156-acre or chard 25,000 bushels of green prunes. The crop of this fruit for the county last year was approximately 150,000 bushels. Peaches and grapes do well In favored localities, and all kinds of small fruits grow In the greatest profusion. The topography of the countryt charac ter of the soli and abundance of vegeta tion, all contribute to make the condi tions ideal for stockgrowlng. Herds of cuttle are found everywhere throughout the county. There were sold out of the county last year about 2000 head, worth 160,000, and the numbor still remaining In the county Is 5561, worth 5100,000. An excellent type of all classes ot horses are grown here, the conditions being especially favorable to the develop ment of horses with superior feet and limbs, as well as plenty of energy and great power of endurance. There are now In the county 2011 horses, worth ?100, 000. A few days since a team of draft horses, sold In Corvallls for ?40O, and a span of roadsters brought ?50Q. That there Is money in good horses goes without saying. Sheep do well and are found to be very profitable. A flock of ewes can be count ed on for 100 per cent Increase annually, and some flocks gave last year as hgh as 150 per cent. It Is not uncommon for growers to clear from 50 to 100 per cent each year on their Investment In sheep. .The number of sheep in the county is 25.000. worth 575,000. The brush lands of the valley and moun tain slopes are the natural habitat of the Angora goat. These are very profit able to the farmer as weed and brush ex terminators, and at the same time they yield a handsome annual Income from their mohair and Increase. Benton Coun ty has the largest flocks and best graded goats In the state. To the dairyman this county offers Ideal conditions. Our mild Winter weather eliminates the necessity for large amounts of food to keep up the heat of the ani mal's body, while the cool days and nights and comparative absence of Insect pests enable the cow to expend her energies naturally In the production of milk, rather than In an unnatural fight against adverse weather conditions and swarms of In sects. The warm, moist climate insures abundant and nutritious pasture most of the year, while the cultivated land yields large crops of leguminous plants, rich In the essentials of milk production- and making excellent silage for Winter feed. Throughout most of the county there is an abundance of the purest water fur nished by sparkling mountain streams and perennial springs, and where these are not accessible, good well water Is found at a depth of 20 to 40 feet. The milk product Is free from unde sirable taints and flavors and exception ally rich In butter fat. An average of all the tests of the Corvallls crca-mery for last year showed nearly 4 per cent of but ter in the milk brought In. Many only fairly graded cows yield from 250 to G00 pounds of butter per year, and some ex ceptional milkers yield 350 pounds. Butter prices range from IS to 30 cents per pound; cheese from 12 to 15 cents, the ex treme prices prevailing for about the same length of time. From this data it will readily appoar that a single cow will