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About The daily Astorian. (Astoria, Or.) 1961-current | View Entire Issue (Jan. 28, 2016)
Readers’ Choice Awards BEST BURGER, BEST CLAM CHOWDER, BEST FINE DINING & BEST CHEF BEST BAR, BEST BREWPUB, BEST PIZZA & BEST SERVER Submitted photo Fort George’s current lineup of canned regular beers is, from left, the 1811 Lager, Vortex IPA, Cavatica Stout, Big Guns and The Optimist. FORT GEORGE BREWERY + PUBLIC HOUSE The Depot Astoria, Oregon By RYAN HUME Submitted photo The race for Best Brewpub was very close. Fort George Brewery and Buoy Beer Co. competed neck-and-neck, with the Fort sealing its win by just five votes. Photo by Alex Pajunas Luke Barrett, a brewer at Fort George Brewery, cleans and fills kegs inside the Lovell Building. Photo by Dwight Caswell Fort George Brewery crafts regular, seasonal and creative occa- sional beers. Pictured are the seasonal Fresh IPA, left, and the Squash Buckler. 14 | January 28, 2016 | coastweekend.com Readers sampled all of the suds around and once again chose Fort George to reign supreme in the Best Brewpub category. Having shored up the majority of the 1400 block of Duane Street in Asto- ULDVLQFH¿UVWRSHQLQJLQWKH)RUWLVPRUHOLNH a multi-tiered brew park than a simple brewpub. Big doesn’t necessarily mean bad. The Fort offers patrons plenty of different experiences de- pending on what they are in the mood for. Hidden GHHS LQVLGH WKH EUHZHU\ WKH /RYHOO7DSURRP LV the place for a simple slice of pizza and a Quick File photo :LWE\WKH¿UHSODFH7KHPDLQÀRRURIWKHSXEOLF Fort George bakes its pizzas in a wood-fired oven located on the house is perfect for pulling on a pint of Cavatica second floor; the oven’s oval mouth remains open, so you can peek 6WRXWGXULQJDIDPLO\GLQQHULQDWDOOVORWWHGZRRG inside. The pizzas are made with organic flour sourced in the Pacif- ic Northwest, and toppings include house-made sausage, pulled ERRWK/LYHPXVLFPLJKWEHKDSSHQLQJXSVWDLUVRU pork, Mediterranean flavors, truffle cheeses and more. RYHUDWWKH/RYHOO6KRZURRP 5DQNHGLQDVWKHWKODUJHVWEUHZHU\ LQ 2UHJRQ )RUW *HRUJH PRYHG EDUUHOV potential Cascadia Subduction Zone earthquake RIOXSXOLQODGHQEHHULQDORQH%XWDORQJ WR \RJD SKLORVRSK\ DQG FOLPDWH FKDQJH ZKLOH ZLWKWKHLUH[SDQVLRQDQGQHZYHQWXUHVRZQHUV a new season of Brewer’s Dinners is just around Chris Nemlowill and Jack Harris and crew ha- WKHFRUQHU3OXVEHJLQQLQJ-DQWKH)RUWZLOO YHQ¶WIRUJRWWHQWKHLPSRUWDQFHRIJRRGVHUYLFH KRVWDEHQH¿WQLJKWIRUORFDOQRQSUR¿WVHYHU\ODVW community involvement and a comfortable 7XHVGD\RIWKHPRQWK7KH¿UVWZDVDIXQGUDLVHU atmosphere — facts that seem to sit well with IRUWKH/HZLV&ODUN3DUHQWV&OXEWRNLFNXSD OLWWOHFDVKIRUDSOD\JURXQG2IFRXUVHDVDO- Readers’ Choice voters. ZD\VWKHUHZLOOEHEHHUWRR /RRN IRUZDUG WR 6WRXW 0RQWK and the ever-popular Festival of Dark Arts in February Best Pizza BEST BAR ZLWK PRUH FDQQHG The Fort can now Inferno seasonals and special boast about having the Runner-up: oria brews on tap. Your best pizza in town. Lounge, Ast storia y Beer Co., A o u B : n o Sunday nights stay Pizza thrives under ti n e M Honorable UB P W E lively with live volcanic condi- R B T S BE r Co., Astoria e e music each week WLRQV DQG QRWK- B y o u w B ie : , Seav Runner-up tty Brewing (free and open ing accomplishes Je h rt o N : n Mentio WR DOO DJHV DW this better than A Honorable BEST PIZZ a ri o st p.m. The Fort D ZRRG¿UHG A , za iz Fultano’s P Astoria will continue oven. Whether it , a Runner-up: sk la A d ke Mention: Ba ZLWK WKH /RYHOO is topped in sim- Honorable R S h o w r o o m ’s ple pepperoni or BEST SERVE ourgouin, B rc a -M n a Je Thursday night UDUL¿HG LQ WUXIÀH : p u r- e w Runn Cafe, Seavie t lecture series that FKHHVHDSL]]DFUXVW e e tr S d n y, 2 4 artle rotates between Ales FKDUUHGRQWKHRXWVLGH tion: Chad H orable Men n o H a ri o st A , ,GHDV %HHUV WR <RXU ÀXII\ LQ WKH FHQWHU DQG a sk la Baked A +HDOWK1DWXUH0DWWHUVDQG molten with dairy is a beau- Wit & Wisdom (recent talks WLIXOWKLQJ$W)RUW*HRUJHWKH have covered everything from the only question remaining is which is Seaview, Washington Photo by Ryan Hume Zack O’Connor, who works at Fort George Brewery, was voted Best Server in the 2015 Readers’ Choice Awards. the accompaniment and which is the main course: the beer or the pizza? Best Server: Zack O’Connor After having lived in Portland for a mere six PRQWKVIROORZLQJFROOHJHLWRQO\WRRNRQHWULS to the North Coast for Zack O’Connor to fall in love with Astoria. “I’m not a very impetuous SHUVRQ´2¶&RQQRUQRWHGEXWDIWHUWKDW¿UVWYLVLW he immediately put in his two weeks’ notice and ODQGHGLQ$VWRULDLQ-DQXDU\ 6WDUWLQJDW)RUW*HRUJHLQ0D\LWGLGQ¶W take long for readers to notice O’Connor’s com- PLWPHQWH[SHUWLVHDQGHDV\JRLQJQDWXUHZKHQ LWFRPHVWRKLVMREDQGYRWHUVKDYHWLSSHGWKHLU FDSV WR KLP ZLWK WKH %HVW 6HUYHU DZDUG in thanks. O’Connor has one simple goal in mind when LW FRPHV WR FXVWRPHU VHUYLFH +H ZDQWV WR ¿QG \RXWKHULJKWEHHU%HVLGHVWKDW³LW¶VUHDOO\DERXW anticipating what they need before they realize WKH\QHHGLW´KHVDLG2¶&RQQRUFUHGLWVWKHFRP- SDQ\ FXOWXUH DQG FROODERUDWLYH RXWORRN RI )RUW George for making his job what it is. 3HUVRQDOO\2¶&RQQRUWHQGVWRIDYRU6HVVLRQ ,3$V OLNH WKH )RUW VHDVRQDO %LJ *XQV$ ³VHV- VLRQ´EHHULVD%ULWLVKWHUPWKDWUHIHUVWRDEHHU ZLWKDORZDOFRKROFRQWHQWRIWHQGH¿QHGDVXQ- GHUSHUFHQWDVLQ\RXFDQGULQNDIHZLQDVLQJOH drinking session and still get off your stool. :KHQKH¶VQRWVOLQJLQJPLFUREUHZV2¶&RQ- nor is probably best known as the bass player of the Astoria-based indie group Holiday Friends. Having recently transitioned into an expanded KXPDQUHVRXUFHVUROHDWWKH)RUW2¶&RQQRUKDV QRSODQVWROHDYHWKHÀRRUVRRQ³0HHWLQJSHR- ple and talking about craft beer is the best part of ZRUNLQJDWWKHEUHZHU\´KHVDLG Fort George Brewery is located at 1483 Duane St. Check out www.fortgeorgebrewery.com for more information. By RYAN HUME 3DFNHG LQVLGH D VPDOO KLVWRULF WUDLQ VWDWLRQ MXVW DFURVV WKH ZD\ IURP WKH 6RX¶:HVWHU /RGJH LQ 6HDYLHZ :DVKLQJWRQ RQ WK DQG / SODFHV 0LFKDHO/DOHZLF]DQG1DQF\*RUVKH¶VWKH'HSRW Restaurant continues to be the little engine that FRXOGGRHVDQGNHHSVRQGHOLJKWLQJ1RUWK&RDVW diners in a variety of categories. A perennial fa- YRULWHRIWKH5HDGHUV¶&KRLFH$ZDUGVWKH'HSRWLV EDFNDJDLQWKLV\HDUZLWKIRXUPRUHZLQVLQFOXGLQJ D VHFRQG JR DV %HVW &KHI D FDWHJRU\ ¿UVW LQWUR- GXFHGLQWKDW/DOHZLF]KDVQRZWDNHQERWK \HDUVUXQQLQJ/HW¶VPHHWWKHFKHI VRPHRIWKRVHÀDYRUVPD\VHHPUHVWDVVXUHGWKDW the Depot has put in every effort to source local ingredients. “We are honored to be a part of a na- tional campaign starting soon called Eat This Fish WKDWLVFHOHEUDWLQJVXVWDLQDEOH¿VKHULHVWKURXJKRXW WKHFRXQWU\´*RUVKHDGGHG³:HDUHIHDWXULQJRXU ORFDOOLQJFRGDQGURFN¿VKZLWKORFDO¿VKHUPHQLQ QDWLRQDODGYHUWLVHPHQWV´ Photo by Lynette Rae McAdams Every Wednesday night during the school year, the Depot hosts “Burger Night,” where diners create the burger of their dreams from a seemingly endless list of topping choices. Best Fine Dining :KHWKHU IRU D GDWH QLJKW VSHFLDO FHOHEUDWLRQ RUMXVWDPHPRUDEOHPHDO5HDGHUV¶&KRLFHYRWHUV have consistently chosen the Depot Restaurant as their favorite place to wine and dine. With a nod WR ¶VHUD GpFRU LQ WKH EODFNDQGZKLWH FKHFN- HUHGÀRRUDQGDPLGWKHWKHDWULFVDQGÀDUHXSVRI Best Chef /DOHZLF] ² D 'HWURLW QDWLYH DQG FODVVLFDOO\ DQRSHQNLWFKHQWKH'HSRWPDQDJHVWRVQXJO\¿W WUDLQHGFKHI²RSHQHGWKH'HSRW\HDUVDJRZLWK SOHQW\RIDWWHQWLYHVHUYLFHLQWRDVRIWO\OLWEXWVPDOO VSDFH /RFDO HSKHPHUD KDQJV RQ WKH ZDOOV *RUVKHKLVZLIHDQGEXVLQHVVSDUWQHU.QRZ- and there’s even a mural of a loco- ing that he did not want to do exactly BEST BURGER PRWLYHDQRGWRWKHEXLOGLQJ¶V ZKDWHYHU\RQHHOVHZDVGRLQJ past when it served as a stop the Depot’s eclectic menu Runner-up: on the “Clamshell Rail- UHFDOOV /DOHZLF]¶V 3RO- Buoy Beer Co., Astoria URDG´ ZKLFK RSHUDWHG ish upbringing and his Honorable Men tion: at the whim of the background in Italian Portway Tavern , Astoria tides. and French cuisine BEST CLAM C HOWDER Describing their while simultane- Runner-up: Doo ger’s atmosphere as “ca- ously celebrating Honorable Men Seafood & Grill, Warrenton tion: Buoy Beer VXDO ¿QH GLQLQJ´ the North Coast’s Co., Astoria BEST FINE DIN there’s no dress prized bounty and ING Runner-up: Br code at the De- the techniques and id ge w at er Bistro, Astor Honorable Men ia tion: T. Paul’s Su SRW ZKLFK PDNHV ÀDYRUV /DOHZLF] pper Club, Ast oria sense when you has come across BEST CHEF Runner-up: Se are only a few hun- through his world an Whittaker, A storia dred feet away from travels. Coffeehouse & Bistro, Astoria the beach. This come- ³/DVWWLPHZHZHUH Honorable Men tion: Andrew as-you-are approach has LQ *XDGDODMDUD 0LFKDHO Catalano, Street 14 Cafe, won over locals and tourists learned how to make four Astoria DOLNH %XW RI FRXUVH LW LV WKH different moles from an amaz- IRRG WKDW JHWV WKH PRVW QRWLFH DQG LQJFRRNWKHUH´*RUVKHVDLG³7KH /DOHZLF]DQG*RUVKHKDYHEHHQIHDWXUHGRQ Carne Asada Negro on our menu is from local Portland and Seattle TV stations as well as WKDWWULS´ 2QDQ\JLYHQQLJKWWKH'HSRW¶VPHQXFDQWUDQV- nominated for Best Chef by ABC’s Nightline. /DOHZLF]ZLOONLFNRIIWKLV\HDU¶VZLQHGLQQHU SRUW GLQHUV DFURVV IDUÀXQJ UHDFKHV RI WKH JOREH without ever leaving their table. But as far away as VHDVRQRQ0DUFKZLWKD¿YHFRXUVHPHDOKRQ- Photo by Lynette Rae McAdams Photo by Lynette Rae McAdams Co-owner and executive chef Michael Lalewicz cuts a freshly glazed flourless chocolate tart in his kitchen at the Depot Restau- rant in Seaview, Washington. oring the legendary New Orleans chef Paul Prud- KRPPHZKRGLHGLQ2FWREHU/DOHZLF]DQG *RUVKHDOVRKRSHWRVHFXUHDOLTXRUOLFHQVHLQ and to expand their offering from just beer and wine to include cocktails as well. With the renown their LQWHUQDWLRQDOZLQHOLVWKDVDOUHDG\FODLPHGLWZLOO be interesting to see what they pour out of a shaker. Best Burger and Clam Chowder $QRIIVHDVRQWUDGLWLRQHYHU\:HGQHVGD\QLJKW IURP 2FWREHU WKURXJK -XQH WKH 'HSRW VKHGV LWV regular menu and becomes the most sought-after burger joint on the peninsula. A throwback to the EXLOGLQJ¶VWDYHUQSDVW*RUVKHVDLG³,WKDVEHHQD YHU\IXQZD\WRVD\WKDQNVWRRXUORFDOFXVWRPHUV´ 2QEXV\QLJKWVWKH\PRYHDERXWSDWWLHV The burgers are substantial: about as thick as a hockey puck with at least twice the circumference The Depot Restaurant’s “Clamshell Railroad Clams Chowder” is made to order in a creamy broth, with whole wild Willapa Bay steamers and chopped Pacific razor clams. DQG VHDWHG RQ D VWXUG\ .DLVHUVW\OH EXQ WKDW FDQ somehow hold its own no matter what it’s topped ZLWKDQGWKHFKRLFHVGRDERXQG8VLQJDFKHFN- OLVWRQWKHWDEOHGLQHUVFDQFKRRVHIURPIRXUSDWWLHV ²EHHIEXIIDORDJULOOHGSRUWREHOORPXVKURRPRU IRUWKH¿UVWWLPHWKLV\HDUIULHGR\VWHUV²DQGDQ\ QXPEHURIWRSSLQJVDOOIRU Gorshe’s personal favorite is a buffalo burger ZLWKSLQHDSSOHEDFRQDQGDYRFDGRZLWKDVLGHRI VZHHW SRWDWR IULHV ³0LFKDHO GRHVQ¶W XQGHUVWDQG KRZDQ\RQHFRXOGSXWSLQHDSSOHRQDEXUJHU´VKH DGGHGEXWVWLOOWKHFKRLFHLVWKHUH $OVRDYDLODEOHHYHU\QLJKWRIWKHZHHNLQFOXG- LQJ%XUJHU1LJKWVLV/DOHZLF]¶VPXOWLDZDUGZLQ- ning clam chowder. A playful retooling of the WUDGLWLRQDO 1HZ (QJODQGVW\OH VWDSOH WKH 'HSRW¶V features whole Willapa Bay steamers soaked awake in a garlicky cream base punctuated by chopped ra- ]RUFODPVOHHNVDQGSRWDWRHV:LWKHDFKKHDYHQO\ ERZO PDGH WR RUGHU WKLV FKRZGHU KDV SURYHQ VR popular it should probably have its own Yelp page. January 28, 2016 | coastweekend.com | 15
