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About Oregon City courier. (Oregon City, Or.) 1902-1919 | View Entire Issue (Jan. 24, 1908)
I ' Marjorie Dane's Patterns THE drossy costume (B9S4-B961) is a popular, example of the pretty gulmpe modes that are ' now having such vogue. The design Is happy combination of simplicity and good style, and will i:ot prove ut all difficult for the home dress maker to attempt. The development was In tan colored vol!?, and an Inner vest of heavy lace lends especial charm to the waist. The skirt Is one of the most attractive arming the new designs. It is practical four gore model, laid in an Inverted box- pleat at each seam. The top is given close adjust ment, while the lower edgo. Hares In prevailing style. Soutache braid, so fashionable Just now, Is effective ly used In th triminlns. Any of the light-weight cloths or silks are adaptable to this design. For 16 inches bunt measure 2 yards of 44 inch material will be required for die waist, and 4 yards for the skirt. f l.ndles WM wlfli fJiilmpe. No. BIIS4. Slues for 8-'. .14, a, SH, 40 and 42 liiclien bust incamire. I.ndiea' Mklrt, No. fifXH. flues for Its, 24, 2(1, 2S, SO lid 32 Inches vtalst measure. This illustration calls for two separate patterns, a waist and a skirt, at 10 cents each. The charming gown (0001-6995) shows one of the latest developments of the popular over waist, and Is decidedly attractive. Deep tucks at the shoulders are stitched down a short distance in the front, while in the back they are carried down to the waistline in shapely effect. The short wide Japanese sleeves are prettily caught up by straps fastened by ornamental buttons, which are also used In the decoration of the front. The skirt Is one of the newest and smartest of the season. It is a graceful five gored model and will serve nicely as a separate skirt to wear with odd waists or as part of a cos tume. The top is tucked to deep yoke depth, except in the front, which 1b left plain In panel effect. The circular flounces add a becoming flare to the lower edge, which may be in medium sweep or round length. As represented, chiffon broadcloth was used for the maldnec, and heavy lace laid over black satin was used In trimming the waist. The design is also adapted to voile, taffeta and satin cloth. For 30 Inches bust measure 1 yards of 44 Inch material will be required for the waist and 84 yards for the skirt. I, miles' Over-Wnlst. No. 0001. Slurs for .12, HI, .1(1, &3, 40 and 42 inches bust mrasnre. Ladies' Five fiored Skirt In medium sweep or round length, ! lvlth or without the three circular flounces. No. nillir,. Sle for 22, 24, 20, 28, .10 and 82 Inches waist inensnre. This illustration cnlls for two separate patterns, for a waist and a skirt, at 10 cents each. Address all orders to Marjorie Dane, 43 West Thirty-fourth street, New York City. 'lease he sure to slr.'tc nUe of pattern desired and write nnme and address plainly. Afternoon Tea. Etiquette The question of calling or not culling after having attended an afternoon tea Is one that has been answered both In the ufllrmatlve and the negative. However, it is always better to call a couple of weeks after the tea has been given. Of course, if someone has .days at home the whole season and you simply drop In Informally to call on one of those afternoons, that copstltutes a call in itself, but if you are especially Invited to an "at home" or a "tea" for one afternoon, then I would say that you owe your hostess a call, which should be paid within the month ensuing. When issuing cards for such functions, you should send them out In sealed envelopes at least two weeks In advance. Never economize In so llngrunt a way as to send out cards In unsealed envelopes which can be mailed with a one-cent stamp. You need never accept or decline In writing these Invitations. If you do not attend the tea, then on the day It is given mall your card to the hostess. Thut Is all that Is necessary. . If you are asked to assist at a tea Join your hostesB on time, a few minutes curlier than the first I Jiour named on the card, and wear the very prettiest house gown that you have. Unless the occasion is extremely formal, you need not wear gloves, as you Will be needed to moke yourself generally useful about the serving, etc. If possible, when serving wear a dainty gown Hint will wash, as you are apt to spill refreshments on It. Kentucky Cold (renin. Kosewulor, 4 ounces; al mond oil, 4 ounces; spermaceti, 1 ounce; white wax, 1 ounce. Orange flower water, llliic, violet or elder (lower water can be substituted at pleasure In place of rosewator, and the addition of ono drachm of tinc ture of benzoin or one-hulf drachm of salicylic acid will insure the r renin from becoming rnncid. It should always bo put In small ppen mouthed Jars that can bo tightly closed to exclude the nlr. v'v-i .,. r 1 ii jrgA?v fiv . ssa I .. rnstw yy .mm ij . 1 i : m . yiv i v , ., z- iThMt.MM LW IN W O HV I WWW I tW V, i ii 0119 W'UW I iW WW m !l KS :mm , .X&&ZI8s. - v :. I mw Mi I ffls i I If' Vi .11 mm i m mms mm nwww aiBi i, if , kjkw th-in -rf.w . , Ik , ti fcj'. iii.iv?; 7'a7 . ' : iww i t m 'if ' u vvv 1 7 jf 7 I " : Vprj I V ntt liiiiw I i ! , I i llli I 111 III 1 I 1 .'' I A " 1 1 II - . til ftr TixnmiKa7n u s .vw ill i i io, a . tjrr flf I H i ll 11 v a Mij r . I , I El . II 1 X Uf M . WW V i mi ii i i 'ii , jl . . i: ii w y II II i, I 1 1 II IV i II J IL-J II I, XT' . 1 ,11 1 I MB I m m N r. KJ r -liM I Ill iY'WA v. unfiv i i Uli ' ' i . f 'Mill III I 1 1 1 1 s'. v . . . . -w w'-w01.'S.N.-;vVis. CnOn vvS. -Vv.X WXi 5 9 to 1 1 I I &b i How to Keep Away the Wrinkles DO not wait until your face Is like a piece of crumpled parchment, then rush to a beauty doctor for relief begin with the very first' tiny wrinkle that shows Itself and -work on it until it disappears. Massage Is the greatest cure yet dis covered, and with the help of good creams, proper ' bathing, etc., a woman, In her own home, can do much to alleviate this most common affliction. Massage, 'however, must be done ; properly, for there are certain swift, rough movements that will bring on rather than make . way with wrinkles. You must rub across, not In the wrinkles. One of the most simple Illustrations of this Is a piece of soft tissue paper that has been crumpled up. Now, rub the creases out of It. You would rub very gently, would you not? You would rub up a little, then down a little. Just so must you treat your face. ' If your skin is very oily do not use an astringent t, so strong that It eats up all the natural' oil and leaves the skin dry and hard. This will induce; wrinkles as quick as anything.. Jtathei 1 apply ' a '. little camphor-water, use no greasy soaps, steam the' face once a week, making sure that these 'simple ! remedies are of no avail before more heroic methods are adopted. The most difficult wrinkles to get rid of are thosv that come between the eyes. Generally this set of wrinkles comes from a long established habit of frowning. Many women use plasters for this pur pose, and the treatment has been very successful In numerous cases. They are to be obtained of any good drusjlst, and should be applied at night In such a manner as to smooth out the wrinkles, keeping the flesh perfectly flat. Mussuge Is also splendid, and frequent applications of sour cream is beneficial. In fact, Bour cream is a good face wash and is easily obtained. Used once a day It Is said to be very nourishing to weakened tissues. In order to get the full benefit of massage, it must lie done systematically and the face prepared before the cream is applied. First, wash with very warm water to which a few drops of benzoin have been added. If soap is used, it must be pure and well rinsed off, as it is necessary for the pores to be open In order to derive any benefit from the massage. Then put on plenty of cream, not a tiny scrap, but cover the face liberally and rub and rub, gently but persistently, until the skin has eaten up all the cream. Night la the best time for this practtcfy as It Is never wise to go out into the air Immediately after the treatment. Most women are apt to go out soon after washing the face a very bad practice. If you must do this, wash the face with cologne water, which will tighten up the pores a little, or put on a veil as a means of protection. I should be glad to send any reader a set of Instructions for massaging the face If she will send me a stamped and self-addressed envelope. The most important thing Is to prevent wrinkles coming. Their causes are many. The automobile has been blamed for the almost universal appearance of wrinkles on the faces of rather young women. The first step towards removing wrinkles of this sort is stVamlng the face and keeping it absolutely clean, and after cleansing, adding plenty of cream. The wrinkles that come from worries are of another type. They seem to extend from the forehead to the chin tiny, little stubborn wrinkles that only a light heart within and infinite care from without can alle viate. Then come the hard little' wrinkles that form around the mouth of the woman who has many chil dren to feed and dress with Insufficient funds. It is rather difficult to offer medicine to women of the latter class, and there are many of them. Trying to make ends meet is not a pleasant way to spend a lifetime, and the lines will come light them as you may. Sleep Is the cheapest and best medicine for such Ills. The business woman develops wrinkles be cause she works all day and Is apt to try to keep up a social life in the evenings, thus robbing her of that great restorer of beauty. Placid, easy-gjlng women who lead idle lives can afford to curtail their hours of sleep, but the nervous, busy, energetic woman need3 from eight to twelve hours out of every twenty-four. The Neckpiece andltsSelectionl letter writing I MKT a girl in the street yesterday dressed for a walk In a raincoat of critvenette and a set of ermine furs! That may not sound very dread ful as you read it, but shut your oyc. and picture It to yourself. It wa simply Impossible. No doubt the girl had other furs, but why wear them with a raincoat f Hotter had she wrapped a silk handkerchief around her throat under the coat and let the furs stay peacefully nt home, than to have made herself the Iniighlng stock of passersby. To be dressed properly Is a far greater achievement than to be dressed handsomely. Money can accomplish the latter, but only hrnlns the former. Ermine furs aro only lor dressy oc casions, and tho girl who wears them morning, noon and night, In good weather and bad, is extremely foolish, to put It mildly Another girl was soon the other day In a largo department store buying a hat. She was dressed In a simple lit tle (allor-nmde suit with short skirt, and she wns looking at Inexpensive hats to wear with tills suit. Around her neck she had a pale blue feather boa that reached nearly to tho end of the short skirt Without the boa she would have been well dressed and caused no comment, hut as It was the clerks gathered In little Mquca and laughed at her. The boa was a lovely addition to any evening gown an ac cessory that many girls would crave but worn over a dark clievl.it walking luit it was ridiculous v These are only iw.i Instances, yet Cities are full of ihem The girl in the raincoat should huve had nothing about her neck, unless It was a bit of dark fur. and the girl in the walking suit should not have uttempted to mingle her evening frills with street garments. The shops are owrftowlim with smart little neck-pieces that are appropriate for wear with street suits dark furs, net pieces with ends of satin ribbons, dark brown marabout boas that are wide and tlat. ami hun dreds of novelty pieces. If your furs are light and perishable, such ns er mine or white fox. you inn only wear them with your best calling costume and your evening clothea. Ostrich feather and marabout boaa in pal shades are for evening gowns pure and simple. They ennnot be worn In the l street at any time of day, no matter j how clear the weather. In summer : over o lingerie dress, that Is quite a different thing, but summer Is a long : way off. ! T.he girl who lives in a Btnall town, and goes out very little in the evening. Is foolish to Invest in these pulo shades for neck pieces. Hotter try a soft piece of fur that can be worn day and night; fur Is almost sure to be becom- ! lug If you select the dark shades. If your neck-pleco must be of net or chif fon, then get a soft neutral color that will look woll on your street suit; and It It must do duty for evening wear also, It will not look ill. Heally, brown Is tho safest choice In cither fur, not or chiffon. I know of no color that really clashes with it. Those of you who have a fur coat that Is apt to rub oft on the collar of your dress should get a scarf to wear under the coat. This should be made of one of two things either crepe de chine or china silk, both of which will wash nicely. Don't get a pale pink chiffon scarf to wear under last year's fur coat. It will make the coat look badly and the scarf a little bit worse. Oct white, soft gray, tan or some other soft color, and when It is the least hit soiled, wash It out with lukewarm water and pure soap. Scarfs for this purpose should have no trimming, their only finish being a deep hem at both ends. The great thing is to wear light neck-pieces with light and dainty I clothes only; your fur pieces with your 'street garments; keeping always with- In reason. Marabout is being worn more and I more, and comes In the softest possible , coloring. These boas are not expens ive, and tho girl who cannot afford fur j will be wlsa to turn her eyes on mar about. Nut and chiffon pieces are not j warm and during the cold wenther are little worn except for afternoon ro I ceptlons; never for general street wear. Fur, of course, Is preferable to anything else at this season of the ! year, but If your purse allows of but one set, do not buy ermine or any light colored skin. You will be sorry if you do take my word for 1U '0 "?. I vy in NK of the greatest aids In tho bus iness of winning hearts and hold ing friends is to bo found in any well supplied writing desk. If, there fore, yuu have an eye to the best and the main chance socially, write tidy, timely, well-expressed and numerous notes. A perfect note Is a very charm ing and very important human docu ment indeed, and I would have nil my readers understand that the pen Is still mightier, not only than the sword, but mightier than tho telephone, the tele graph and the typewriter, and it serves more than one useful purpose to every nrtin and woman who Is eager and hope ful of gaining true popularity. It Is a pity, and It Is true, that not every man and woman Is aware of the powor that lies behind the pen, for there are so ninny of both sexes who, to speak plainly, shirk their duties as correspondents. Without realizing the Injustice they do to themselves they admit that they avoid letters and note writing wherever and whenever It Is possible to do so. "I never write a note when I can use the 'phone, and If my friends Insist upon hearing from mo I dictate a page or two to my typewriter or send a wire and there I am," asserted a young gentleman, with a proud smile, as though there was something admirable In such methods, which really are not only as bad as they can be, but In jurious ns well to his reputation for consideration and good-breeding. Not upon tho fingers of my two hands can I count the men and women who. In his neglect of note and letter writing, he has sorely and forever of fended. Again and again, when in doubts, in difficulties, and with his reputation for good-breeding and good-nature at stake, he has avoided sending a note and lost a dear and boon companion or the good-will of a very Important ac quaintance, for he belongs to that large ami ever-growing class who either re gard note nml letter-writing as a thief of time, or to the other and equally large class who, for want of early training, do not know how to live up to the task of using their pens grace fully. To the first of these, to those who fay that they hnve not the time to bother with correspondence, I need only offer the reproach that all kinds of civilities are duties, and to the other .ENDING things U Care of House Plants THE most durable cement for mend- I ing china Is pure white lead ground In llnseed-oli, so thick It will barely spread smoothly with a knife. Olven time enough to harden some three months It mnkes a seam practically Indestructible. The objection to It Is that it always shows In a staring white line. A better ce ment for fine china is white of egg and plaster. Sift the plaster three times, and tie a generous pinch of It loosely In mosqulto-nettlng. Then beat the egg until it will stick to the plat ter. Have the broken edges very clean, cover both with the beaten egg, dust well with the plaster fit, together ut once, tie. using rubber bands If pos sible, wrap loosely In very soft tissue paper, and bury head and ears In the sand-box, taking care that the break lies so the weight of the sand will hold It together. Leave In the box twenty-four hours. After a week the superfluous plaster may be gently scraped away. This answers for white and light grounded wares. Deep colored pieces had hotter be mended with gin and Isinglass of double strength. Some times a little transparent color, dis solved In alcohol, may be stirred through the cement with advantage SLANG OCCASIONALLY a bit of slang is amusing and sometimes it is very expressive! on the Hps of young men and lively girls Its rare use is not offensive, but the continued repeti tlon of slang terms Is not to be par doned In men or women of any age unless they are of the very humblest origin and least educated class. A slangy habit, however, is not the only false method to be discouraged In the seeker after the easy graces of speech. Beware of falling Into the way of constantly employing such phrases as "Listen here" and "say;" of giving as sent and showing surprise by crying "That's right." "Woll. you don't say," and concluding the simplest statement with the unimpressive and unnecessary additions of "See!" "Don't you know?" "Vou know." etc. pen shirkers I must insist tl at It l. possible for anyone who has had a common school education to acquire the art of writing notes and writing them very well indeed. . Treat ferns exactly as you would palms, suve and except the oiling. Tie up the fronds rather closely before they go In the bath, and let the pot get a soaking as well. Squares of cheese cloth or old lawn are good to tie over the pots. Set the pot In the middle of the square, and knot the ends across. The best house-ferns are the so-called "Boston" fern, the small sword fern with black stems, and the asparagus tern. The wholo malden-hulr family Is beautiful beyond expression, but It Is idle to think of keeping them In good condition outside a fernery or a greenhouse. With a glass fern-case, the most that Is needed Is not to give too much water, to keep the glass al ways clean and clear of lint; and now and then to fertilize with dissolved hone-mcal. Such a case needs to be set away from the source of boat, where It will get light, but no direct sun-rays. The immortelle of house-plants Is the rubber-plant; still, there are people for whom even rubber-plants will not grow. The sturdy stocky things need plenty of pot-room, great plenty of fertilizer, a fair degree of warmth and moisture, and a very great deal of sunshine. To make them brunch low down Is often In the nature of a prob lem. It can be done by almost starv ing the plant, keeping It away from light and heat, with very little water, until all the leaves fall, save one or two at the tip. This, of course, In an curly stage; say when the plant is a foot high. After the leaves have drop ped, repot, giving very rich earth, set in sunshine, water freely, and fertilize every fortnight. If growth begins at the tip. tie a cord Just below the bud not tight enough to cut the bark, but to slightly compress the vessels of it. In six weeks buds will be likely to start from several of the cicatrices left by the fallen leaves. Rub off all that are superfluous, and give those chosen every chance to develop. Hy and by take off the string around the central stalk. It Is no longer needed when the branches arc well established, and each piisliin up for Itself. Wash rubber plants a leaf at a time; they are com monly too unhandy for the bath-tub. Kveiy month or so oil the leaves as directed for palms, but put the oil only on the glossy upper side; the lower side must not have its breathing-poxes choked. Bullis, especially lilies, make charm ing house-plants, doubly charming in that they thrive with so little care, and have so few of the enemies which plague woody things. The scarlet Amaryllis, of which there are half-a-dozen sorts, each sufficiently gorgeous, shows handsome, long, green leaves the year round, very nearly as dec orative as those of the costly Dracena; then in early spring sends up a tall stalk crowned with three to four truly royal blossoms. It is, moreover, cheap; fifty cents will buy a bulb certain to flower, riant In a six-Inch pot, nearly full of rich earth, set where it has good light, water and fertilize well. The bulb lives on from year to year, sending up richer nnd richer blooms each season. For every bloom-stalk there comes nn off-set, a small bulb, which may be separated,, and brought to flowering in three years more. Qo not leave the off-sets around the parent bulb. They will end by choking It, without ever equalling It. Japan lilies, Easter lilies, tulips, hy acinths, tube-roses, the many-hued savage gladiolus, all, all thrive in pots, and can be made to supply a succession of bloom. Bulbs of every sort should ba kept dark for some weeks after planting. Aside from that, the care of them Is so easy a child or a simple ton can hardly go astray. All need pot-room, a rich earth, and an even temperature. Fots may be kept In a cellar, or bath-room, or kitchen, until almost ready to flower, then take their place in the window. With a cellar, by potting a number and moving out the pots in succession, one can have flowers from bulbs through an almost indefinite time. Nut and Cheese Sandwiches. Mix to gether pot cheese and chopped hickory ruts, add to it a dash of paprika and spread on either white or brown brepd. Olives, chopped with nuts, make -nice filling; tigs chopned up with nuts are delicious, wl ile cold fish If highly seasoned and dressed with a little ma yonnaise. Is appetizing. PATENTS TH AT FROTFCT-Our three book, for inventors mailed on receipt of six cents tamps. R. S. 4 A. B. Lscey, Rooms 25 to ;t5 Pacific Bid, Washington, D. C Ejuoluhai l&a. $5.00 NOW Saves $2.50 Later rVlcCLURE'S is now $1.50 I I a year instead of $ 1 .00, as hitherto, but we believe all readers of McClure's are en titled to an opportunity to get it a little longer at the old price. If you will send $5.00 at once, you will receive McClure's Maga zine for five years, which would a little later cost you $7.50. Stop and think what an oppor tunity this is to give an unique Christmas present to some friend. For $5.00 you can send a Christmas present which repeats itself every month for sixty months McClure's. You can cover five Christmases and you can give your friend an oppor unity to start with an attractive serial by Mrs. Cutting. Send $5.00 today for McClure's Magazine, to be sent five years either to your address of to the address of a friend to whom you would like to give this novel Christmas present, and we will, 1 on request, send a Uinstmas card like that shown here, in r.i f t . r- ih,. .. i. ..... tonics, $&j&tmf i! your name, every Christmas for five years. Or you can send five Christmas presents to five, one year each, for $5.00. McCLURE'S MAGAZINE, 65 East 23d Street, NEW YORK.