I '
Marjorie Dane's
Patterns
THE drossy costume (B9S4-B961) is a popular,
example of the pretty gulmpe modes that are
' now having such vogue. The design Is
happy combination of simplicity and good style, and
will i:ot prove ut all difficult for the home dress
maker to attempt. The development was In tan
colored vol!?, and an Inner vest of heavy lace lends
especial charm to the waist. The skirt Is one of
the most attractive arming the new designs. It is
practical four gore model, laid in an Inverted box-
pleat at each seam. The top is given close adjust
ment, while the lower edgo. Hares In prevailing style.
Soutache braid, so fashionable Just now, Is effective
ly used In th triminlns. Any of the light-weight
cloths or silks are adaptable to this design. For
16 inches bunt measure 2 yards of 44 inch material
will be required for die waist, and 4 yards for
the skirt. f
l.ndles WM wlfli fJiilmpe. No. BIIS4. Slues for
8-'. .14, a, SH, 40 and 42 liiclien bust incamire.
I.ndiea' Mklrt, No. fifXH. flues for Its, 24, 2(1, 2S, SO
lid 32 Inches vtalst measure.
This illustration calls for two separate patterns,
a waist and a skirt, at 10 cents each.
The charming gown (0001-6995) shows one of the
latest developments of the popular over waist, and
Is decidedly attractive. Deep tucks at the shoulders
are stitched down a short distance in the front,
while in the back they are carried down to the
waistline in shapely effect. The short wide Japanese
sleeves are prettily caught up by straps fastened
by ornamental buttons, which are also used In the
decoration of the front. The skirt Is one of the
newest and smartest of the season. It is a graceful
five gored model and will serve nicely as a separate
skirt to wear with odd waists or as part of a cos
tume. The top is tucked to deep yoke depth, except
in the front, which 1b left plain In panel effect.
The circular flounces add a becoming flare to the
lower edge, which may be in medium sweep or
round length. As represented, chiffon broadcloth
was used for the maldnec, and heavy lace laid over
black satin was used In trimming the waist. The
design is also adapted to voile, taffeta and satin
cloth. For 30 Inches bust measure 1 yards of 44
Inch material will be required for the waist and 84
yards for the skirt.
I, miles' Over-Wnlst. No. 0001. Slurs for .12, HI, .1(1,
&3, 40 and 42 inches bust mrasnre.
Ladies' Five fiored Skirt In medium sweep or
round length, ! lvlth or without the three circular
flounces. No. nillir,. Sle for 22, 24, 20, 28, .10 and
82 Inches waist inensnre.
This illustration cnlls for two separate patterns,
for a waist and a skirt, at 10 cents each.
Address all orders to Marjorie Dane, 43 West
Thirty-fourth street, New York City.
'lease he sure to slr.'tc nUe of pattern desired and
write nnme and address plainly.
Afternoon Tea.
Etiquette
The question of calling or not culling after having
attended an afternoon tea Is one that has been
answered both In the ufllrmatlve and the negative.
However, it is always better to call a couple of
weeks after the tea has been given. Of course, if
someone has .days at home the whole season and you
simply drop In Informally to call on one of those
afternoons, that copstltutes a call in itself, but if
you are especially Invited to an "at home" or a
"tea" for one afternoon, then I would say that you
owe your hostess a call, which should be paid within
the month ensuing.
When issuing cards for such functions, you should
send them out In sealed envelopes at least two weeks
In advance. Never economize In so llngrunt a way
as to send out cards In unsealed envelopes which
can be mailed with a one-cent stamp. You need
never accept or decline In writing these Invitations.
If you do not attend the tea, then on the day It is
given mall your card to the hostess. Thut Is all
that Is necessary. .
If you are asked to assist at a tea Join your
hostesB on time, a few minutes curlier than the first I
Jiour named on the card, and wear the very prettiest
house gown that you have. Unless the occasion is
extremely formal, you need not wear gloves, as you
Will be needed to moke yourself generally useful
about the serving, etc. If possible, when serving
wear a dainty gown Hint will wash, as you are apt
to spill refreshments on It.
Kentucky Cold (renin. Kosewulor, 4 ounces; al
mond oil, 4 ounces; spermaceti, 1 ounce; white wax,
1 ounce.
Orange flower water, llliic, violet or elder (lower
water can be substituted at pleasure In place of
rosewator, and the addition of ono drachm of tinc
ture of benzoin or one-hulf drachm of salicylic acid
will insure the r renin from becoming rnncid. It
should always bo put In small ppen mouthed Jars
that can bo tightly closed to exclude the nlr.
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How to Keep Away
the Wrinkles
DO not wait until your face Is like a piece of
crumpled parchment, then rush to a beauty
doctor for relief begin with the very first'
tiny wrinkle that shows Itself and -work on it until
it disappears. Massage Is the greatest cure yet dis
covered, and with the help of good creams, proper '
bathing, etc., a woman, In her own home, can do
much to alleviate this most common affliction.
Massage, 'however, must be done ; properly, for
there are certain swift, rough movements that will
bring on rather than make . way with wrinkles.
You must rub across, not In the wrinkles. One
of the most simple Illustrations of this Is a piece
of soft tissue paper that has been crumpled up.
Now, rub the creases out of It. You would rub very
gently, would you not? You would rub up a little,
then down a little. Just so must you treat your face.
' If your skin is very oily do not use an astringent t,
so strong that It eats up all the natural' oil and
leaves the skin dry and hard. This will induce;
wrinkles as quick as anything.. Jtathei 1 apply ' a '.
little camphor-water, use no greasy soaps, steam the'
face once a week, making sure that these 'simple !
remedies are of no avail before more heroic methods
are adopted.
The most difficult wrinkles to get rid of are thosv
that come between the eyes. Generally this set of
wrinkles comes from a long established habit of
frowning. Many women use plasters for this pur
pose, and the treatment has been very successful
In numerous cases. They are to be obtained of any
good drusjlst, and should be applied at night In such
a manner as to smooth out the wrinkles, keeping the
flesh perfectly flat. Mussuge Is also splendid, and
frequent applications of sour cream is beneficial.
In fact, Bour cream is a good face wash and is easily
obtained. Used once a day It Is said to be very
nourishing to weakened tissues.
In order to get the full benefit of massage, it must
lie done systematically and the face prepared before
the cream is applied. First, wash with very warm
water to which a few drops of benzoin have been
added. If soap is used, it must be pure and well
rinsed off, as it is necessary for the pores to be open
In order to derive any benefit from the massage.
Then put on plenty of cream, not a tiny scrap, but
cover the face liberally and rub and rub, gently but
persistently, until the skin has eaten up all the
cream. Night la the best time for this practtcfy as
It Is never wise to go out into the air Immediately
after the treatment. Most women are apt to go out
soon after washing the face a very bad practice.
If you must do this, wash the face with cologne
water, which will tighten up the pores a little, or
put on a veil as a means of protection. I should be
glad to send any reader a set of Instructions for
massaging the face If she will send me a stamped
and self-addressed envelope.
The most important thing Is to prevent wrinkles
coming. Their causes are many. The automobile
has been blamed for the almost universal appearance
of wrinkles on the faces of rather young women.
The first step towards removing wrinkles of this
sort is stVamlng the face and keeping it absolutely
clean, and after cleansing, adding plenty of cream.
The wrinkles that come from worries are of another
type. They seem to extend from the forehead to the
chin tiny, little stubborn wrinkles that only a light
heart within and infinite care from without can alle
viate. Then come the hard little' wrinkles that form
around the mouth of the woman who has many chil
dren to feed and dress with Insufficient funds. It is
rather difficult to offer medicine to women of the
latter class, and there are many of them. Trying to
make ends meet is not a pleasant way to spend a
lifetime, and the lines will come light them as
you may.
Sleep Is the cheapest and best medicine for such
Ills. The business woman develops wrinkles be
cause she works all day and Is apt to try to keep
up a social life in the evenings, thus robbing her
of that great restorer of beauty. Placid, easy-gjlng
women who lead idle lives can afford to curtail their
hours of sleep, but the nervous, busy, energetic
woman need3 from eight to twelve hours out of
every twenty-four.
The Neckpiece andltsSelectionl letter writing
I MKT a girl in the street yesterday
dressed for a walk In a raincoat
of critvenette and a set of ermine
furs! That may not sound very dread
ful as you read it, but shut your oyc.
and picture It to yourself. It wa
simply Impossible. No doubt the girl
had other furs, but why wear them
with a raincoat f Hotter had she
wrapped a silk handkerchief around
her throat under the coat and let the
furs stay peacefully nt home, than to
have made herself the Iniighlng stock
of passersby. To be dressed properly
Is a far greater achievement than to
be dressed handsomely. Money can
accomplish the latter, but only hrnlns
the former.
Ermine furs aro only lor dressy oc
casions, and tho girl who wears them
morning, noon and night, In good
weather and bad, is extremely foolish,
to put It mildly
Another girl was soon the other day
In a largo department store buying a
hat. She was dressed In a simple lit
tle (allor-nmde suit with short skirt,
and she wns looking at Inexpensive
hats to wear with tills suit. Around
her neck she had a pale blue feather
boa that reached nearly to tho end of
the short skirt Without the boa she
would have been well dressed and
caused no comment, hut as It was the
clerks gathered In little Mquca and
laughed at her. The boa was a lovely
addition to any evening gown an ac
cessory that many girls would crave
but worn over a dark clievl.it walking
luit it was ridiculous
v These are only iw.i Instances, yet
Cities are full of ihem The girl in
the raincoat should huve had nothing
about her neck, unless It was a bit of
dark fur. and the girl in the walking
suit should not have uttempted to
mingle her evening frills with street
garments. The shops are owrftowlim
with smart little neck-pieces that are
appropriate for wear with street suits
dark furs, net pieces with ends of
satin ribbons, dark brown marabout
boas that are wide and tlat. ami hun
dreds of novelty pieces. If your furs
are light and perishable, such ns er
mine or white fox. you inn only wear
them with your best calling costume
and your evening clothea. Ostrich
feather and marabout boaa in pal
shades are for evening gowns pure and
simple. They ennnot be worn In the
l street at any time of day, no matter
j how clear the weather. In summer
: over o lingerie dress, that Is quite a
different thing, but summer Is a long
: way off.
! T.he girl who lives in a Btnall town,
and goes out very little in the evening.
Is foolish to Invest in these pulo shades
for neck pieces. Hotter try a soft
piece of fur that can be worn day and
night; fur Is almost sure to be becom-
! lug If you select the dark shades. If
your neck-pleco must be of net or chif
fon, then get a soft neutral color that
will look woll on your street suit; and
It It must do duty for evening wear
also, It will not look ill. Heally, brown
Is tho safest choice In cither fur, not
or chiffon. I know of no color that
really clashes with it.
Those of you who have a fur coat
that Is apt to rub oft on the collar of
your dress should get a scarf to wear
under the coat. This should be made
of one of two things either crepe de
chine or china silk, both of which will
wash nicely. Don't get a pale pink
chiffon scarf to wear under last year's
fur coat. It will make the coat look
badly and the scarf a little bit worse.
Oct white, soft gray, tan or some other
soft color, and when It is the least hit
soiled, wash It out with lukewarm
water and pure soap. Scarfs for this
purpose should have no trimming,
their only finish being a deep hem at
both ends.
The great thing is to wear light
neck-pieces with light and dainty
I clothes only; your fur pieces with your
'street garments; keeping always with-
In reason.
Marabout is being worn more and
I more, and comes In the softest possible
, coloring. These boas are not expens
ive, and tho girl who cannot afford fur
j will be wlsa to turn her eyes on mar
about. Nut and chiffon pieces are not
j warm and during the cold wenther are
little worn except for afternoon ro
I ceptlons; never for general street
wear. Fur, of course, Is preferable to
anything else at this season of the
! year, but If your purse allows of but
one set, do not buy ermine or any light
colored skin. You will be sorry if you
do take my word for 1U
'0 "?.
I vy in
NK of the greatest aids In tho bus
iness of winning hearts and hold
ing friends is to bo found in any
well supplied writing desk. If, there
fore, yuu have an eye to the best and
the main chance socially, write tidy,
timely, well-expressed and numerous
notes. A perfect note Is a very charm
ing and very important human docu
ment indeed, and I would have nil my
readers understand that the pen Is still
mightier, not only than the sword, but
mightier than tho telephone, the tele
graph and the typewriter, and it serves
more than one useful purpose to every
nrtin and woman who Is eager and hope
ful of gaining true popularity.
It Is a pity, and It Is true, that not
every man and woman Is aware of the
powor that lies behind the pen, for
there are so ninny of both sexes who,
to speak plainly, shirk their duties as
correspondents. Without realizing the
Injustice they do to themselves they
admit that they avoid letters and note
writing wherever and whenever It Is
possible to do so.
"I never write a note when I can use
the 'phone, and If my friends Insist
upon hearing from mo I dictate a page
or two to my typewriter or send a
wire and there I am," asserted a young
gentleman, with a proud smile, as
though there was something admirable
In such methods, which really are not
only as bad as they can be, but In
jurious ns well to his reputation for
consideration and good-breeding.
Not upon tho fingers of my two
hands can I count the men and women
who. In his neglect of note and letter
writing, he has sorely and forever of
fended. Again and again, when in doubts, in
difficulties, and with his reputation for
good-breeding and good-nature at
stake, he has avoided sending a note
and lost a dear and boon companion or
the good-will of a very Important ac
quaintance, for he belongs to that large
ami ever-growing class who either re
gard note nml letter-writing as a thief
of time, or to the other and equally
large class who, for want of early
training, do not know how to live up
to the task of using their pens grace
fully. To the first of these, to those who
fay that they hnve not the time to
bother with correspondence, I need
only offer the reproach that all kinds
of civilities are duties, and to the other
.ENDING things U Care of House Plants
THE most durable cement for mend-
I ing china Is pure white lead
ground In llnseed-oli, so thick It
will barely spread smoothly with a
knife. Olven time enough to harden
some three months It mnkes a
seam practically Indestructible. The
objection to It Is that it always shows
In a staring white line. A better ce
ment for fine china is white of egg
and plaster. Sift the plaster three
times, and tie a generous pinch of It
loosely In mosqulto-nettlng. Then beat
the egg until it will stick to the plat
ter. Have the broken edges very
clean, cover both with the beaten egg,
dust well with the plaster fit, together
ut once, tie. using rubber bands If pos
sible, wrap loosely In very soft tissue
paper, and bury head and ears In the
sand-box, taking care that the break
lies so the weight of the sand will
hold It together. Leave In the box
twenty-four hours. After a week the
superfluous plaster may be gently
scraped away.
This answers for white and light
grounded wares. Deep colored pieces
had hotter be mended with gin and
Isinglass of double strength. Some
times a little transparent color, dis
solved In alcohol, may be stirred
through the cement with advantage
SLANG
OCCASIONALLY a bit of slang is
amusing and sometimes it is very
expressive! on the Hps of young
men and lively girls Its rare use is
not offensive, but the continued repeti
tlon of slang terms Is not to be par
doned In men or women of any age
unless they are of the very humblest
origin and least educated class. A
slangy habit, however, is not the only
false method to be discouraged In the
seeker after the easy graces of speech.
Beware of falling Into the way of
constantly employing such phrases as
"Listen here" and "say;" of giving as
sent and showing surprise by crying
"That's right." "Woll. you don't say,"
and concluding the simplest statement
with the unimpressive and unnecessary
additions of "See!" "Don't you know?"
"Vou know." etc.
pen shirkers I must insist tl at It l.
possible for anyone who has had a
common school education to acquire the
art of writing notes and writing them
very well indeed.
. Treat ferns exactly as you would
palms, suve and except the oiling. Tie
up the fronds rather closely before they
go In the bath, and let the pot get a
soaking as well. Squares of cheese
cloth or old lawn are good to tie over
the pots. Set the pot In the middle of the
square, and knot the ends across. The
best house-ferns are the so-called
"Boston" fern, the small sword fern
with black stems, and the asparagus
tern. The wholo malden-hulr family
Is beautiful beyond expression, but It
Is idle to think of keeping them In
good condition outside a fernery or a
greenhouse. With a glass fern-case,
the most that Is needed Is not to give
too much water, to keep the glass al
ways clean and clear of lint; and now
and then to fertilize with dissolved
hone-mcal. Such a case needs to be
set away from the source of boat,
where It will get light, but no direct
sun-rays.
The immortelle of house-plants Is the
rubber-plant; still, there are people for
whom even rubber-plants will not
grow. The sturdy stocky things need
plenty of pot-room, great plenty of
fertilizer, a fair degree of warmth and
moisture, and a very great deal of
sunshine. To make them brunch low
down Is often In the nature of a prob
lem. It can be done by almost starv
ing the plant, keeping It away from
light and heat, with very little water,
until all the leaves fall, save one or
two at the tip. This, of course, In an
curly stage; say when the plant is a
foot high. After the leaves have drop
ped, repot, giving very rich earth, set
in sunshine, water freely, and fertilize
every fortnight. If growth begins at
the tip. tie a cord Just below the bud
not tight enough to cut the bark, but
to slightly compress the vessels of it.
In six weeks buds will be likely to
start from several of the cicatrices left
by the fallen leaves. Rub off all that
are superfluous, and give those chosen
every chance to develop. Hy and by
take off the string around the central
stalk. It Is no longer needed when the
branches arc well established, and each
piisliin up for Itself. Wash rubber
plants a leaf at a time; they are com
monly too unhandy for the bath-tub.
Kveiy month or so oil the leaves as
directed for palms, but put the oil only
on the glossy upper side; the lower
side must not have its breathing-poxes
choked.
Bullis, especially lilies, make charm
ing house-plants, doubly charming in
that they thrive with so little care, and
have so few of the enemies which
plague woody things. The scarlet
Amaryllis, of which there are half-a-dozen
sorts, each sufficiently gorgeous,
shows handsome, long, green leaves
the year round, very nearly as dec
orative as those of the costly Dracena;
then in early spring sends up a tall
stalk crowned with three to four truly
royal blossoms. It is, moreover, cheap;
fifty cents will buy a bulb certain to
flower, riant In a six-Inch pot, nearly
full of rich earth, set where it has
good light, water and fertilize well.
The bulb lives on from year to year,
sending up richer nnd richer blooms
each season. For every bloom-stalk
there comes nn off-set, a small bulb,
which may be separated,, and brought
to flowering in three years more. Qo
not leave the off-sets around the parent
bulb. They will end by choking It,
without ever equalling It.
Japan lilies, Easter lilies, tulips, hy
acinths, tube-roses, the many-hued
savage gladiolus, all, all thrive in pots,
and can be made to supply a succession
of bloom. Bulbs of every sort should
ba kept dark for some weeks after
planting. Aside from that, the care
of them Is so easy a child or a simple
ton can hardly go astray. All need
pot-room, a rich earth, and an even
temperature. Fots may be kept In a
cellar, or bath-room, or kitchen, until
almost ready to flower, then take their
place in the window. With a cellar,
by potting a number and moving out
the pots in succession, one can have
flowers from bulbs through an almost
indefinite time.
Nut and Cheese Sandwiches. Mix to
gether pot cheese and chopped hickory
ruts, add to it a dash of paprika and
spread on either white or brown brepd.
Olives, chopped with nuts, make -nice
filling; tigs chopned up with nuts
are delicious, wl ile cold fish If highly
seasoned and dressed with a little ma
yonnaise. Is appetizing.
PATENTS TH AT FROTFCT-Our three book,
for inventors mailed on receipt of six cents
tamps. R. S. 4 A. B. Lscey, Rooms 25 to ;t5 Pacific
Bid, Washington, D. C Ejuoluhai l&a.
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