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About Oregon City courier. (Oregon City, Or.) 1902-1919 | View Entire Issue (July 13, 1906)
OREGON CITY COURIER MAGAZINE SECTION. OREGON CITY. OREGON FRIDAY. ; l.V 13, 1906. PAGES 1 TO 4. BERNHARDT'S ART IN DRESS GREAT SPLENDOR OF WARDROBE flf THE WORLD'S GREATEST ACTRESS. Much Study Given to Make Each Gown Adaptable to the Fart Pre sented. Artist's Taste and Genius Very Evident. What does Madame Bernhardt wear? During her engagement in this coun try, this question about the famous actress was asked by every woman unable to judge by seeing for herself, and the reply is the cle ghted ex clamation: "Her gowns are simply gorgeous they are a part of her." In the many plays presented, Bern liardt has aa oppo: -unity of displaying a great variety of dresses, und thou sands of women who have packed the large theatres at every performance whereever she appeared, have stared at them in wonder, recognizing not only their perfect adaptation to the part presented, but also how much of Bernhardt's own taste and genius there was in them. HER GENIUS FOR "SIGN. What is it?' The gift displayed In this particular, is as characteristic of the woman as any other of the count less details which go to make her the public idol of all lands. Even those who did not understand the spoken language of the play, were full well able to comprehend that of the silk, satin and lace facing (hem over the flaming footlights. This artist has demonstrated to thousands, thut a gown may be superior in lines and construc tion to the flimsy models sent over each year from Paris for our slavish following. Street clothes, of course, demand a certain amount of conven tionality, in order not to make the wearer conspicuous, but since the Bernhardt engagement in their respec tive fashion centers, not a few devisers of costumes have declared their inten tion of taking Indoor styles more ser ionsly. HER EXAMPLE FOLLOWED. For those women whose incomes ad mit of certain and extravagant expend iture for clothes, it is just now consid ered wonderfully "smart" to furnish their own dressmakers and tailors with water-color sketches of models, speci ally drawn for them by famous artists, these sketches being used solely for their own particular gowns. With the stage for a precedent, these fashionable dames have found it convenient to adopt its methods. For those who can not Indulge in this fad, theater-going, fil 1 V 4 J I 1 i 4 if MADAME SARAH BERNHARDT. In Costnme Worn in Her Famous "Camille" Ball-room Scone. iaumes an added phase of enjoyment to womankind. Sara Bernhardt's crea tions are curiously interesting from the point of view that they serve as an ad vance courier of what may be accom plished by women who effect the hour glass figure as that demanded by fash Ion purveyors. Her carriage is lofty, her chest is high, her waist line ample, and her head well poised quite the reverse, you will observe from the figure usually attributed to French women. But how unfettered is Bern hardt's every action, and how splendid her movements! In other words, she has mastered so absolutely the art of dressing well, that onre clothed, she is utterly oblivious of hpr adornments. A UNIQUE INNOVATION. Novel indeed is the hip swathing of all Mme. Bernhardt's gowns and all her frocks are set up on classical lines. The bodices show waist lines either below her natural bust or well down on her abdomen, preferably the latter style, as it gives her body that hygi enic polst which every woman's better nature knows to be its proper setting for prolonged activity. To demonstrate how Mme. Bern hardt manages to make this audaci ous deviation from fashion's dictates attractive,' it is well to say that she had specially designed a cuirass over which she has her maid wind yards of soft ribbon which is finally tied in front with 'an ornamental bow and long streamer ends. This style is especially adapted to her, as it makes her appear taller, a point well worthy of imitation! On this particular gown the hip swath ing ends in pailletted stole ends, drip ping with gold fringe. Her tiny feet are encased in marvelously fitting slip pers of cloth of gold. WONDERFUL BREAKFAST ROBE. The robe worn in the breakfast scene in "Magda" is worthy of study. It is a silver-encrusted lace creation over pastel blue, set up with wide shoulders and a swathing of pale blue ribbon, ending in large rosettes with stole ends in front. A uniqi but character-lending touch is a miniature Em pire stole merely a patted line of priceless sable, which gives the frock, in its Empire draping, the much need ed long straight lines from neck to hem. The sleeves, too, which are lace puffs, with forearms of transparent lace, show pale blue bracelets at their division, made visible only by the art ist's gestures, a subtle touch, but very pleasing. COSTUMES WORN IN ''CAMILLE." Ravishing, indeed, are her "Camille" dresses! The' first mystery is in sil ver strewn gauze, wrought with a lat tice work of pink ribbon embroidery near the flare at the foot, this outer work of art being fashioned over let tuce green satin souplS. The hip swathing and stole "ends are in the same tone, and she wears with extra ordinary grace a frosty pelerine of pale green chiffon, decorated with fetching clusters of blush roses. Another of the "Camille" frocks re veals the French dressmaker's power of detail. The material is lustrous white satin, with raised embroidery in variegated pink flowers with green foliage the corsage resplendent with well set gems. Another change to which she treats her audience in "Camille" is a gorge ous half-fitting robe of white lace semi-fitting princess is this model, the lace flecked with reddish gold figures, seemingly woven into the texture. Pale pink is the foundation, as is also the hip lining. - HER "ANGELO" COSTUME. In "Angelo," Mme. Bernhardt's dress, an Italian princess costume, is fashioned from gorgeous gold brocade. It is set up on short-waisted, half-fitted bodice lines, with the long sweeping folds of the skirt attached. The mater ial is so draped as to present an unbro ken straight front, from the tucker decorated corsage to the foot line. Beautifully adjusted leg-of-mutton sleeves of gold brocade meet fitted fore arm coverings of cloth of gold, the lat ter extending in shaped circular flares, well drawn down over the knuckles, ending just a touch of ucbing to soften the effect. A classic drapery of gobelin blue crepe, deftly touched with embroidery of deeper tone, accentuates the beauty of the ensemble. This cloak hangs in lone straight lines over the gown, be in? but loosely caught together at the sides with tapestry bine cords aid tas sels. With this is worn a dog collar of pear's. Other feminine accessories, rtuite ont of the ordinarv. are the jewel-studded cloth-flf-?old chatelaine bae, suspended on a lone, dangling gold chain, and several plain linked gold chains worn In festoons over the corsage. JULY SECOND THE DAY GOVERNMENT HISTORIAN SATS REAL INDEPENDENCE IS NOT THE FOURTH. Colonies Made Declaration Against England Previous to Drawing his torical Paper. Final Signing ol Document on August Second According to the opinions of the latest historical authorities both the school children of by-gone days and those of the present time have been taught Incorrectly as to the proper In dependence day of the nation. No one date seems to develop such excitable emotions as does the mention of the Fourth of July, but how unattractive would it seem if we were to state that the seconder July is the day of fire crackers, bombs and Roman candles. And yet, according to Mr. William H. Michael, Chief Clerk and Historian of the Department of State,, "The real In dependence Day is the second of July." Since we bent over our childhood histories we have always had an Idea that our fathers severed the ties with Great Britain on the Fourth of July, 1776, and we have had word of no less an authority than Thomas Jefferson, author of that hallowed instrument, that the Declaration was signed on that date, on whose anniversary the great father of democracy died. But Mr. Michuel says no, and for years he has toiled for his country beneath the same roof which shelters the sacred document; has had the nation's-arch-ives at his fingers' ends. INDEPENDENCE ON JULY 2. "The independence of the United States was declared by resolution on the 2d of July, and the adoption of the form of Declaration on the 4th of July was a secondary matter," says Mr. Michael. "It is a little strange that more importance was not attached to the 2d of July in connection with the Declaration of Independence. The res olution introduced by Richard Henry Lee, was passed on that day (July 2, 1776). This was really the vital point the crucial juncture." The real act of independence, which Mr. Michael has had reproduced in fac simile, was then the Lee resolution declaring: "That these United colonies are, and of right ought to be, free and inde pendent states; that they are absolved from all allegiance to the British Crown, and that all political connection between them and the State of Great Britain is, and ought to be, totally dissolved." SIGNED AUGUST 2. .. Concerning the actual date of the Declaration's signing, Mr. Michael says: "Mr. Jefferson in his account states that all the members present except Mr. Dickinson, signed the Dec laration in the evening of the Fourth of July. The journal shows that no one signed it that evening except Mr, Hancock and Mr. Thomson. The journal entry is: 'Signed, John Han cock, President, Attest, Charles Thom son, Secretary.' On August 2, the Declaration, as engrossed under the order of Congress, was signed by all of the members of Congress present." What really did happen on July 4 of that year of years was the final adoption of a draft of the "form of announcing the fact to the world that independence had been decreed two days before. Jefferson had writ ten this draft in his Philadelphia apartments, consisting of a ready-fur nished parlor and bedroom in the new brick house, of Hyman Gratz, at the southwest corner of 7th and Market streets, "on the outskirts of the city." The Penn National Bank now occupy ing the site of this dwelling, is in the very business heart of Philadelphia, WRITTEN LATE IN JULY. But the "original Declaration," which all pilgrims to Washington formerly gazed upon in awe and reverence, was not ordered written for more than two weeks after that long but unjustly hallowed July 4. On July 19, Con gress ordered that the Declaration be "fairly engrossed on parchment," and that "the same, when engrossed, be signed by every member of Congress, Some time within the next two weeks the beautiful pen work which thous ands of Americans have since mar veled at and admired was executed upon the great strip of sheepskin now locked away in the Department of State at Washington.' On August 2, 1776, just a month after the real stroke of independence this great sheepskin was unrolled in the presence of the Continental Con gress, in Independence Hall, with the wording of the corrected draft It was carefully "compared at the table." This formality gone through with, it was spread out upon a desk and signed by all of the members of Con gress present. Fifty of these fathers of the republic signed on that day. Six of the revered "signers,, did not affix their signatures until later dates George Wythe of Virginia signed about August 27. Richard Henry Lee. Virginia: Eldrldge Gerry. Massachu setts, and Oliver Wolcott, Connecticut did not sign until come time In Sep tember. Matthy Thornton, of New Hampshire, did not add his name until November, and Thomas McKean of Delaware, probably did not. affix his, the final slenature. until five years later, or 1781. Matthew Thornton, by the wav. was not appointed to Con eress until September, and did not take his seat until November four months after the adoption of the Dec laration. Other signers who "-ore not members of Congress on July 2 or 4, wers allowed to sigm on August 2, the general signing day. These were Benjamin Rush, James Wilson, George Ross, George Clymer and Georce Taylor. JUL 7 FOURTH. The Day of DaysAmong Uncle Sam's sailor Boys. Uncle Sam makes the Fourth of July a greater day among his sailors than even Christmas. Indeed, it is tne greatest day for relaxation and pleasure for Jackie in the whole year. The early Secretaries of the navy established the custom and it has been almost religiously maintained invio late through the long line of officials wno nave succeeded them. Independence day belongs to the Jackie. His superiors recognize that nis lire is in some respects a hard one. To him is denied the ties of family, the .friendships and all the otner interests and diversions of life that make up the landsman's existence, so for this reason Uncle Sam believes that his sailors should have as many holidays as possible. To make Independence Day the big gest day of all is to give the dav a special significance which cannot fail in some degree at least; to carry its lesson of patriotic duty to those who serve the republic on the seas. Hence commodores and captains always plan to remain in port on July 4. Then, after dressing ship, fir ing the national salute, and brief patri otic services, the day is given to the men to enjoy as they see fit, discipline being almost entirely relaxed. The sports that attend the sailors on the Fourth of July are of a varied char INDEPENDENCE HALL acter. Our naval service has, of course, become affected to a consider able extent by the great 6utdoor move ment that has converted Independence Day into the greatest sporting carni val of the year. The Navy Department has wisely encouraged this tendency,, and where ever an open field is available, the piece de resistance is a baseball game, sometimes between rival nines picked from members of the same ship, oftener between teams representing different ships and in some extreme cases between nines from separate squadrons who happen to be in ren dezvous near each other. Then there are track and field events. . The fleet-footed wearers of the blue show how fast they can sprint. Now just what good this does them in their developments as fighters Is not clear, for even had they the instinct to flee and get over ground faster than a Duffy it would do them no good at the moment when the prow of the ship was heading for a moist trip to Davy Jones' Locker. However, they run and throw weights, Jump and pole vault. If no athletic 'field Is nvnilulilo, then the rivalry must be confined to aquatic events, swimming and rowing races. In extreme cases where it Is not pos sible to get ashore or the water con ditions preclude rowing or swimming, the Jackles test their prowess at box ing, wrestling, fencing, dancing and singing. Then the ship's larder is drawn on for such extra delicacies as trans forms the regula- neal into a banquet, and Mr. Jackie cr?.rls into his ham mock with the comfortable feeling that July Fourth is :. pretty big day after all. and that he is glad to be able to pass It In Uncle Sam's service. Black Hair the Strongest. Black hair Is stronger than golden tresses, and will sustain almost double the weight. Recently a scientist found, by experiment, that it is possible to suspend a weight of four ounces by a single hair, provided the hair be Mack. Rlnnd hair will give tjt at weights varying according to the tint. A yel low hair will scarce support two ounces. a brown will hold ut three without breaking, while one of .a verv dark brown will sustain an additional half ounc. I'll Wmy watt H4MWf - 4 ?Copyri3hted Synopsis of preceding chapters at end of this Installment. At early dawn the country inn was all alive. The archer was as merry aa a grig, and having kissed the matron and chased the maid up the ladder once more, he went out to the brook and came back with the water dripping from his (ace and hair. "Hola! my man of peace," he cried to Alleyne, "whither are you bent this morning?" "To Minstead. My brother Simon Edricson is socman there, and I go to bide with him for a while." The archer and Hordle John placed a hand upon either shoulder and led the boy off to the - board, where some smoking fish, a dish of spinach, and a jug of milk were laid out for their breakfast. I should not be surprised to learn, mon camarade," said the soldier, as he heaped a slice of the fish upon Allevne's tranchoir of bread, "that you could read written things. iou DinoD T II naimBSH jo sjaujo.iq uaaq babu I jnq 3uaas 'pa.ia.vBU-B an Jt would be shame to tne goou their clerk this ten years." The bowman looked at him with great respect. "Think of that!" said he. "And you with not a hair to your face, and a skin like a girl. I can shoot three hundred and fifty paces AT PHILADELPHIA. with my little popper there, and four hundred anrl twentv with tht ercnt war-bow; yet I can make nothing of this, nor read my own name. "Why, it is written in the French tongue," said Alleyne, "and in a right clerkly hand. This ia how It runs In our speech: 'To the very powerful and very honorable knight. Sir Nigel Loring of Chrlstchurch, from his very faithful friend Sir Claude Latour, captain of the White Company, chate laln of Buscar, grand lord of Mont chateau, and vassal to the renowned Gaston, Count of Foix, who holds the rights of the high Justice, the middle, and the low." "Look at that, now!" cried the bow man in triumph. "That is Just what ho would have said. You come with me, mon gros Jean, and as to you, little one, where did you say that you Journeyed?" "To Minstead." "Ah, yeB! I know this forest-country well. We shall travel round with you tc Minstead, lad, seeing that it Is little out of our way." As they passed the old church, which Btood upon a mound at the left hand Bide of the village street, the door was flung open, and a stream of wor shippers wound down the sloping path, coming from the morning mass. Alleyne bent knee and doffed hat at the sight of the open door; but ere he had finiBhed an Ave, his comrades were out of sight round the curve of the path, and he had to run to overtake them. "What!" he said, "not one word of prayer before God s own open house? How can ye hope for his blessing upon the day?" "My friend," Bald Hordle John, "I have prayed so much during the ast two months, not only during the day, but. at matins, lauds, and the like, when I could scarce keep my head upon my shoulders for nodding, that I feel that I have somewhat overprayed myself." "How can a man have too mifh ro llglon?" cried Alleyne earnestly. "It Is the one thine that availeth. A man Is but a beast as h llvs from rtv to day, eating and drlnklne, breathing and sleeping. It Is-only when he raises himself, and co. jerns himself with the Immortal spirit within him, that he becomes in very truth a man. TMhlnk y how d a thing H -nii'd bo that the Mood of the Redeemer should be spilled to no purnose.' "Bless the lad. If be doth no htnnh like anv erM. and vet prearh I'Vo the whole College of Cardinals!" .cried the ' ar"her. "In truth I blushed that any one mn weak and so "nworthv aa I ho'ild t-v to teach another that which he finfl It so plng htrd to follpw himself." 1894. By hm,, e-lrSHiets. "Prettily said, mon garcon! Touch ing that same slaying of the Redeemer, It was a bad business. A good padre in France read to us from a scroll the whole truth of the matter. The soldiers came upon Him in the Garden. In truth, these Apostlesof Hlstnayhave been holy men, but they were of no great account' as' men-at-armo. There was one, indeed. Sir Peter, who smote out like a true man; but, unless he is belied, he did but clip a varlet's car, which was no very knightly deed. By these ten finger-bones! had I been there, with Black Simon of Norwich, and but one score of picked men of the Company, we had held them In play. , Could we do no more, we had at least filled the false knight, Sir Judas, so full of English arrows that he would curse the day that ever he came on such an errand." The young clerk smiled at his companion's earnestness. "Had He wished help," he said, "He could have summoned legions of archangles from ven, so wnai neea naa He or your poor bow and arrow? BesidcH, bethink you oi ins own worns that "those who live ny tne sword shall perish by the sword." "Now, youngster, let things be plat and plain between us. I am a man who shoots straight at his mark. You saw the things I had with me at yonder hostel; name which you will, save the box of rose-colored sugar i which I take to the Lady Loring, and j you shall have them if you will but iume wiui lue 10 Trance. "Nay," said Alleyne, "I would gladly come with ye to France or where else yo will, JuBt to list to your talk, and bfcause ye are the only two friends that I have in the whole wide world outside of the cloisters; but indeed it may not be, for my duty is toward my brother, seeing that father and mother are dead, and he my elder. Besides, when ye talk of taking me to France, ye do not conceive how useless I should be to you, seeing that neither by training nor by nature am I fitted for the wars, and there seems to be nought but strife in those parts." ' "Bethink you again, mon ami," quoth Aylward, "that you might do much good yonder, since there are three hundred men in the Company, and none who has ever a word of grace for them, and yet the Virgin knows that there was never a set of men who were In more need of It. Slckerly the one duty may balance the other. Tour brother hath done with out you this many a year, and, as I gather, he hath never walked as far as Beaulleu to see you during all that time, bo he cannot be In any great need of you." "Besides," said John, "the Socman ol Minstead Is a byword through the forest, from Bramshaw Hill to Holmes ley Walk. He is a drunken, brawling Perilous churl, as you may find to your cost." "The more reason that I should strive to mend him," quoth Alleyne. "There is no need to urge me, friends, for my own wishes would draw me to France, and It would be a Joy to me could I go with you. But indeed and Indeed It cannot be, so here I take my leave of you, for yonder Bquare tower amongst the trees upon the right must surely be the church of MlnBtead, and I may reach it by this path through the woodB." "Well, God be with thee, lad!" cried 'he archer, pressing Alleyne to his heart. "I am quick to love, and aulck to hate, and 'fore God I am loath to part. Yet It may be as well that you thou Id know whither we go. We shall now Journey south through the woods until we come out upon the Chrlst churoh road, and so onward, hoping to-night to reach the castle of 8Jr William Montacute, Earl of Salisbury, of which Sir Nigel Loring Is constable. There we shall bide, and it Is like enough that for a month or more you may find us there, ere we are ready for our voyage back to France." It was hard indeed for Alleyne to break away from these two new but hearty friends, and so strong was the ccmbat between his conscience and his inclinations that he dared not look round, lest his resolution should slip away from him. The path which the young clerk haa now to follow lay through a magnifi cent forest of the very heaviest timber, where the giant boles of oak and of beech formed long aisles in every di rection, shooting up their huge branches to build the majestic arches of Nature's own cathedral. It was very still there In the heart of the woodlands. The gentle rustle of the branches- and the distant coning of pigeons were the only sounds which, broke In upon the silence, save that once Alleyne heard afar off a merry call upon a hunting bugle and the shrill yapping of the hounds. He pushed on the quicker, twirling his staff merrily, and looklmr out at every tui' 3' the path for Borne sign of the old Saxon residence. He was HudXlenly arrested, however, by the appearance of a wild-looking fellow armed with a. club, who sprang out from behind a tree and barred his passage. He was a rough, powerful peasant, with cap and tunic of untanned sheepskin, leather breeches, and galllgafJtlns round Ms lees and feet. "Stand!" he shouted, raiding bis heavy cudgel to enforce the order. "Who are you who wnik so freely throii'-h the wood?" Wh'ther would yon en, and what is your errand?" "Whv should T answer your ques tions, rtiv friend'"' said Alleyne, stand Ine on his guard. "Because vour tntimie may save vr.nr psto. What bast In the scrip?" "Nnurht of any price." How can T tell that, clerk? Let me see." ' "Mot T." "nw T could pu'l you limb from limb HV a pullet. Wouldst lose scrip and life too" "I will part with neither without a fight." "X fight, quotha? A fight bttwlxt