OREGON CITY COURIER
MAGAZINE SECTION.
OREGON CITY. OREGON FRIDAY. ; l.V 13, 1906.
PAGES 1 TO 4.
BERNHARDT'S ART IN DRESS
GREAT SPLENDOR OF WARDROBE
flf THE WORLD'S GREATEST
ACTRESS.
Much Study Given to Make Each
Gown Adaptable to the Fart Pre
sented. Artist's Taste and Genius
Very Evident.
What does Madame Bernhardt wear?
During her engagement in this coun
try, this question about the famous
actress was asked by every woman
unable to judge by seeing for herself,
and the reply is the cle ghted ex
clamation: "Her gowns are simply gorgeous
they are a part of her."
In the many plays presented, Bern
liardt has aa oppo: -unity of displaying
a great variety of dresses, und thou
sands of women who have packed the
large theatres at every performance
whereever she appeared, have stared
at them in wonder, recognizing not
only their perfect adaptation to the
part presented, but also how much of
Bernhardt's own taste and genius
there was in them.
HER GENIUS FOR "SIGN.
What is it?' The gift displayed In
this particular, is as characteristic of
the woman as any other of the count
less details which go to make her the
public idol of all lands. Even those
who did not understand the spoken
language of the play, were full well
able to comprehend that of the silk,
satin and lace facing (hem over the
flaming footlights. This artist has
demonstrated to thousands, thut a gown
may be superior in lines and construc
tion to the flimsy models sent over
each year from Paris for our slavish
following. Street clothes, of course,
demand a certain amount of conven
tionality, in order not to make the
wearer conspicuous, but since the
Bernhardt engagement in their respec
tive fashion centers, not a few devisers
of costumes have declared their inten
tion of taking Indoor styles more ser
ionsly. HER EXAMPLE FOLLOWED.
For those women whose incomes ad
mit of certain and extravagant expend
iture for clothes, it is just now consid
ered wonderfully "smart" to furnish
their own dressmakers and tailors with
water-color sketches of models, speci
ally drawn for them by famous artists,
these sketches being used solely for
their own particular gowns. With the
stage for a precedent, these fashionable
dames have found it convenient to
adopt its methods. For those who can
not Indulge in this fad, theater-going,
fil 1 V 4 J I
1 i 4 if
MADAME SARAH BERNHARDT.
In Costnme Worn in Her Famous "Camille" Ball-room Scone.
iaumes an added phase of enjoyment
to womankind. Sara Bernhardt's crea
tions are curiously interesting from the
point of view that they serve as an ad
vance courier of what may be accom
plished by women who effect the hour
glass figure as that demanded by fash
Ion purveyors. Her carriage is lofty,
her chest is high, her waist line ample,
and her head well poised quite the
reverse, you will observe from the
figure usually attributed to French
women. But how unfettered is Bern
hardt's every action, and how splendid
her movements! In other words, she
has mastered so absolutely the art of
dressing well, that onre clothed, she is
utterly oblivious of hpr adornments.
A UNIQUE INNOVATION.
Novel indeed is the hip swathing of
all Mme. Bernhardt's gowns and all
her frocks are set up on classical lines.
The bodices show waist lines either
below her natural bust or well down
on her abdomen, preferably the latter
style, as it gives her body that hygi
enic polst which every woman's better
nature knows to be its proper setting
for prolonged activity.
To demonstrate how Mme. Bern
hardt manages to make this audaci
ous deviation from fashion's dictates
attractive,' it is well to say that she
had specially designed a cuirass over
which she has her maid wind yards of
soft ribbon which is finally tied in front
with 'an ornamental bow and long
streamer ends. This style is especially
adapted to her, as it makes her appear
taller, a point well worthy of imitation!
On this particular gown the hip swath
ing ends in pailletted stole ends, drip
ping with gold fringe. Her tiny feet
are encased in marvelously fitting slip
pers of cloth of gold.
WONDERFUL BREAKFAST ROBE.
The robe worn in the breakfast
scene in "Magda" is worthy of study.
It is a silver-encrusted lace creation
over pastel blue, set up with wide
shoulders and a swathing of pale blue
ribbon, ending in large rosettes with
stole ends in front. A uniqi but character-lending
touch is a miniature Em
pire stole merely a patted line of
priceless sable, which gives the frock,
in its Empire draping, the much need
ed long straight lines from neck to
hem. The sleeves, too, which are lace
puffs, with forearms of transparent
lace, show pale blue bracelets at their
division, made visible only by the art
ist's gestures, a subtle touch, but very
pleasing.
COSTUMES WORN IN ''CAMILLE."
Ravishing, indeed, are her "Camille"
dresses! The' first mystery is in sil
ver strewn gauze, wrought with a lat
tice work of pink ribbon embroidery
near the flare at the foot, this outer
work of art being fashioned over let
tuce green satin souplS. The hip
swathing and stole "ends are in the
same tone, and she wears with extra
ordinary grace a frosty pelerine of pale
green chiffon, decorated with fetching
clusters of blush roses.
Another of the "Camille" frocks re
veals the French dressmaker's power
of detail. The material is lustrous
white satin, with raised embroidery in
variegated pink flowers with green
foliage the corsage resplendent with
well set gems.
Another change to which she treats
her audience in "Camille" is a gorge
ous half-fitting robe of white lace
semi-fitting princess is this model, the
lace flecked with reddish gold figures,
seemingly woven into the texture. Pale
pink is the foundation, as is also the
hip lining.
- HER "ANGELO" COSTUME.
In "Angelo," Mme. Bernhardt's
dress, an Italian princess costume, is
fashioned from gorgeous gold brocade.
It is set up on short-waisted, half-fitted
bodice lines, with the long sweeping
folds of the skirt attached. The mater
ial is so draped as to present an unbro
ken straight front, from the tucker
decorated corsage to the foot line.
Beautifully adjusted leg-of-mutton
sleeves of gold brocade meet fitted fore
arm coverings of cloth of gold, the lat
ter extending in shaped circular flares,
well drawn down over the knuckles,
ending just a touch of ucbing to
soften the effect.
A classic drapery of gobelin blue
crepe, deftly touched with embroidery
of deeper tone, accentuates the beauty
of the ensemble. This cloak hangs in
lone straight lines over the gown, be
in? but loosely caught together at the
sides with tapestry bine cords aid tas
sels. With this is worn a dog collar of
pear's.
Other feminine accessories, rtuite ont
of the ordinarv. are the jewel-studded
cloth-flf-?old chatelaine bae, suspended
on a lone, dangling gold chain, and
several plain linked gold chains worn
In festoons over the corsage.
JULY SECOND THE DAY
GOVERNMENT HISTORIAN SATS
REAL INDEPENDENCE IS NOT
THE FOURTH.
Colonies Made Declaration Against
England Previous to Drawing his
torical Paper. Final Signing ol
Document on August Second
According to the opinions of the
latest historical authorities both the
school children of by-gone days and
those of the present time have been
taught Incorrectly as to the proper In
dependence day of the nation. No one
date seems to develop such excitable
emotions as does the mention of the
Fourth of July, but how unattractive
would it seem if we were to state that
the seconder July is the day of fire
crackers, bombs and Roman candles.
And yet, according to Mr. William H.
Michael, Chief Clerk and Historian of
the Department of State,, "The real In
dependence Day is the second of July."
Since we bent over our childhood
histories we have always had an Idea
that our fathers severed the ties with
Great Britain on the Fourth of July,
1776, and we have had word of no less
an authority than Thomas Jefferson,
author of that hallowed instrument,
that the Declaration was signed on
that date, on whose anniversary the
great father of democracy died. But
Mr. Michuel says no, and for years he
has toiled for his country beneath the
same roof which shelters the sacred
document; has had the nation's-arch-ives
at his fingers' ends.
INDEPENDENCE ON JULY 2.
"The independence of the United
States was declared by resolution on
the 2d of July, and the adoption of the
form of Declaration on the 4th of July
was a secondary matter," says Mr.
Michael. "It is a little strange that
more importance was not attached to
the 2d of July in connection with the
Declaration of Independence. The res
olution introduced by Richard Henry
Lee, was passed on that day (July 2,
1776). This was really the vital point
the crucial juncture."
The real act of independence, which
Mr. Michael has had reproduced in fac
simile, was then the Lee resolution
declaring:
"That these United colonies are, and
of right ought to be, free and inde
pendent states; that they are absolved
from all allegiance to the British
Crown, and that all political connection
between them and the State of Great
Britain is, and ought to be, totally
dissolved."
SIGNED AUGUST 2.
.. Concerning the actual date of the
Declaration's signing, Mr. Michael
says: "Mr. Jefferson in his account
states that all the members present
except Mr. Dickinson, signed the Dec
laration in the evening of the Fourth
of July. The journal shows that no
one signed it that evening except Mr,
Hancock and Mr. Thomson. The
journal entry is: 'Signed, John Han
cock, President, Attest, Charles Thom
son, Secretary.' On August
2, the Declaration, as engrossed under
the order of Congress, was signed by
all of the members of Congress
present."
What really did happen on July 4
of that year of years was the final
adoption of a draft of the "form of
announcing the fact to the world
that independence had been decreed
two days before. Jefferson had writ
ten this draft in his Philadelphia
apartments, consisting of a ready-fur
nished parlor and bedroom in the new
brick house, of Hyman Gratz, at the
southwest corner of 7th and Market
streets, "on the outskirts of the city."
The Penn National Bank now occupy
ing the site of this dwelling, is in the
very business heart of Philadelphia,
WRITTEN LATE IN JULY.
But the "original Declaration," which
all pilgrims to Washington formerly
gazed upon in awe and reverence, was
not ordered written for more than two
weeks after that long but unjustly
hallowed July 4. On July 19, Con
gress ordered that the Declaration be
"fairly engrossed on parchment," and
that "the same, when engrossed, be
signed by every member of Congress,
Some time within the next two weeks
the beautiful pen work which thous
ands of Americans have since mar
veled at and admired was executed
upon the great strip of sheepskin now
locked away in the Department of
State at Washington.'
On August 2, 1776, just a month
after the real stroke of independence
this great sheepskin was unrolled in
the presence of the Continental Con
gress, in Independence Hall, with the
wording of the corrected draft It was
carefully "compared at the table."
This formality gone through with,
it was spread out upon a desk and
signed by all of the members of Con
gress present. Fifty of these fathers
of the republic signed on that day.
Six of the revered "signers,, did not
affix their signatures until later dates
George Wythe of Virginia signed
about August 27. Richard Henry Lee.
Virginia: Eldrldge Gerry. Massachu
setts, and Oliver Wolcott, Connecticut
did not sign until come time In Sep
tember. Matthy Thornton, of New
Hampshire, did not add his name until
November, and Thomas McKean of
Delaware, probably did not. affix his,
the final slenature. until five years
later, or 1781. Matthew Thornton,
by the wav. was not appointed to Con
eress until September, and did not
take his seat until November four
months after the adoption of the Dec
laration. Other signers who "-ore
not members of Congress on July 2
or 4, wers allowed to sigm on August
2, the general signing day. These
were Benjamin Rush, James Wilson,
George Ross, George Clymer and
Georce Taylor.
JUL 7 FOURTH.
The Day of DaysAmong Uncle Sam's
sailor Boys.
Uncle Sam makes the Fourth of
July a greater day among his sailors
than even Christmas. Indeed, it is
tne greatest day for relaxation and
pleasure for Jackie in the whole year.
The early Secretaries of the navy
established the custom and it has been
almost religiously maintained invio
late through the long line of officials
wno nave succeeded them.
Independence day belongs to the
Jackie. His superiors recognize that
nis lire is in some respects a hard
one. To him is denied the ties of
family, the .friendships and all the
otner interests and diversions of life
that make up the landsman's existence,
so for this reason Uncle Sam believes
that his sailors should have as many
holidays as possible.
To make Independence Day the big
gest day of all is to give the dav a
special significance which cannot fail
in some degree at least; to carry its
lesson of patriotic duty to those who
serve the republic on the seas.
Hence commodores and captains
always plan to remain in port on
July 4. Then, after dressing ship, fir
ing the national salute, and brief patri
otic services, the day is given to the
men to enjoy as they see fit, discipline
being almost entirely relaxed. The
sports that attend the sailors on the
Fourth of July are of a varied char
INDEPENDENCE HALL
acter. Our naval service has, of
course, become affected to a consider
able extent by the great 6utdoor move
ment that has converted Independence
Day into the greatest sporting carni
val of the year.
The Navy Department has wisely
encouraged this tendency,, and where
ever an open field is available, the
piece de resistance is a baseball game,
sometimes between rival nines picked
from members of the same ship,
oftener between teams representing
different ships and in some extreme
cases between nines from separate
squadrons who happen to be in ren
dezvous near each other.
Then there are track and field
events. . The fleet-footed wearers of
the blue show how fast they can
sprint. Now just what good this does
them in their developments as fighters
Is not clear, for even had they the
instinct to flee and get over ground
faster than a Duffy it would do them
no good at the moment when the prow
of the ship was heading for a moist
trip to Davy Jones' Locker. However,
they run and throw weights, Jump and
pole vault.
If no athletic 'field Is nvnilulilo, then
the rivalry must be confined to aquatic
events, swimming and rowing races.
In extreme cases where it Is not pos
sible to get ashore or the water con
ditions preclude rowing or swimming,
the Jackles test their prowess at box
ing, wrestling, fencing, dancing and
singing.
Then the ship's larder is drawn on
for such extra delicacies as trans
forms the regula- neal into a banquet,
and Mr. Jackie cr?.rls into his ham
mock with the comfortable feeling
that July Fourth is :. pretty big day
after all. and that he is glad to be
able to pass It In Uncle Sam's service.
Black Hair the Strongest.
Black hair Is stronger than golden
tresses, and will sustain almost double
the weight. Recently a scientist found,
by experiment, that it is possible to
suspend a weight of four ounces by a
single hair, provided the hair be Mack.
Rlnnd hair will give tjt at weights
varying according to the tint. A yel
low hair will scarce support two ounces.
a brown will hold ut three without
breaking, while one of .a verv dark
brown will sustain an additional half
ounc.
I'll
Wmy watt H4MWf - 4
?Copyri3hted
Synopsis of preceding chapters at end of this Installment.
At early dawn the country inn was
all alive. The archer was as merry aa
a grig, and having kissed the matron
and chased the maid up the ladder
once more, he went out to the brook
and came back with the water dripping
from his (ace and hair.
"Hola! my man of peace," he cried
to Alleyne, "whither are you bent this
morning?"
"To Minstead. My brother Simon
Edricson is socman there, and I go to
bide with him for a while."
The archer and Hordle John placed a
hand upon either shoulder and led the
boy off to the - board, where some
smoking fish, a dish of spinach, and a
jug of milk were laid out for their
breakfast.
I should not be surprised to learn,
mon camarade," said the soldier, as he
heaped a slice of the fish upon
Allevne's tranchoir of bread, "that
you could read written things.
iou DinoD T II naimBSH jo sjaujo.iq
uaaq babu I jnq 3uaas 'pa.ia.vBU-B an
Jt would be shame to tne goou
their clerk this ten years."
The bowman looked at him with
great respect. "Think of that!" said
he. "And you with not a hair to your
face, and a skin like a girl. I can
shoot three hundred and fifty paces
AT PHILADELPHIA.
with my little popper there, and four
hundred anrl twentv with tht ercnt
war-bow; yet I can make nothing of
this, nor read my own name.
"Why, it is written in the French
tongue," said Alleyne, "and in a right
clerkly hand. This ia how It runs In
our speech: 'To the very powerful
and very honorable knight. Sir Nigel
Loring of Chrlstchurch, from his very
faithful friend Sir Claude Latour,
captain of the White Company, chate
laln of Buscar, grand lord of Mont
chateau, and vassal to the renowned
Gaston, Count of Foix, who holds the
rights of the high Justice, the middle,
and the low."
"Look at that, now!" cried the bow
man in triumph. "That is Just what
ho would have said. You come with
me, mon gros Jean, and as to you,
little one, where did you say that you
Journeyed?"
"To Minstead."
"Ah, yeB! I know this forest-country
well. We shall travel round with you
tc Minstead, lad, seeing that it Is little
out of our way."
As they passed the old church,
which Btood upon a mound at the left
hand Bide of the village street, the door
was flung open, and a stream of wor
shippers wound down the sloping path,
coming from the morning mass.
Alleyne bent knee and doffed hat at
the sight of the open door; but ere he
had finiBhed an Ave, his comrades were
out of sight round the curve of the
path, and he had to run to overtake
them.
"What!" he said, "not one word of
prayer before God s own open house?
How can ye hope for his blessing upon
the day?"
"My friend," Bald Hordle John, "I
have prayed so much during the ast
two months, not only during the day,
but. at matins, lauds, and the like,
when I could scarce keep my head
upon my shoulders for nodding, that I
feel that I have somewhat overprayed
myself."
"How can a man have too mifh ro
llglon?" cried Alleyne earnestly. "It
Is the one thine that availeth. A man
Is but a beast as h llvs from rtv to
day, eating and drlnklne, breathing
and sleeping. It Is-only when he
raises himself, and co. jerns himself
with the Immortal spirit within him,
that he becomes in very truth a man.
TMhlnk y how d a thing H -nii'd
bo that the Mood of the Redeemer
should be spilled to no purnose.'
"Bless the lad. If be doth no htnnh
like anv erM. and vet prearh I'Vo the
whole College of Cardinals!" .cried the '
ar"her.
"In truth I blushed that any one mn
weak and so "nworthv aa I ho'ild t-v
to teach another that which he finfl
It so plng htrd to follpw himself."
1894. By hm,, e-lrSHiets.
"Prettily said, mon garcon! Touch
ing that same slaying of the Redeemer,
It was a bad business. A good padre
in France read to us from a scroll the
whole truth of the matter. The
soldiers came upon Him in the Garden.
In truth, these Apostlesof Hlstnayhave
been holy men, but they were of no
great account' as' men-at-armo. There
was one, indeed. Sir Peter, who smote
out like a true man; but, unless he is
belied, he did but clip a varlet's car,
which was no very knightly deed.
By these ten finger-bones! had I been
there, with Black Simon of Norwich,
and but one score of picked men of the
Company, we had held them In play. ,
Could we do no more, we had at least
filled the false knight, Sir Judas, so
full of English arrows that he would
curse the day that ever he came on
such an errand."
The young clerk smiled at his
companion's earnestness. "Had He
wished help," he said, "He could have
summoned legions of archangles from
ven, so wnai neea naa He or your
poor bow and arrow? BesidcH, bethink
you oi ins own worns that "those who
live ny tne sword shall perish by the
sword."
"Now, youngster, let things be plat
and plain between us. I am a man
who shoots straight at his mark.
You saw the things I had with me at
yonder hostel; name which you will,
save the box of rose-colored sugar
i which I take to the Lady Loring, and
j you shall have them if you will but
iume wiui lue 10 Trance.
"Nay," said Alleyne, "I would gladly
come with ye to France or where else
yo will, JuBt to list to your talk, and
bfcause ye are the only two friends
that I have in the whole wide world
outside of the cloisters; but indeed it
may not be, for my duty is toward my
brother, seeing that father and mother
are dead, and he my elder. Besides,
when ye talk of taking me to France,
ye do not conceive how useless I
should be to you, seeing that neither
by training nor by nature am I fitted
for the wars, and there seems to be
nought but strife in those parts." '
"Bethink you again, mon ami,"
quoth Aylward, "that you might do
much good yonder, since there are
three hundred men in the Company,
and none who has ever a word of
grace for them, and yet the Virgin
knows that there was never a set of
men who were In more need of It.
Slckerly the one duty may balance the
other. Tour brother hath done with
out you this many a year, and, as I
gather, he hath never walked as far
as Beaulleu to see you during all that
time, bo he cannot be In any great need
of you."
"Besides," said John, "the Socman ol
Minstead Is a byword through the
forest, from Bramshaw Hill to Holmes
ley Walk. He is a drunken, brawling
Perilous churl, as you may find to your
cost."
"The more reason that I should
strive to mend him," quoth Alleyne.
"There is no need to urge me, friends,
for my own wishes would draw me to
France, and It would be a Joy to me
could I go with you. But indeed and
Indeed It cannot be, so here I take my
leave of you, for yonder Bquare tower
amongst the trees upon the right must
surely be the church of MlnBtead, and
I may reach it by this path through
the woodB."
"Well, God be with thee, lad!" cried
'he archer, pressing Alleyne to his
heart. "I am quick to love, and aulck
to hate, and 'fore God I am loath to
part. Yet It may be as well that you
thou Id know whither we go. We shall
now Journey south through the woods
until we come out upon the Chrlst
churoh road, and so onward, hoping
to-night to reach the castle of 8Jr
William Montacute, Earl of Salisbury,
of which Sir Nigel Loring Is constable.
There we shall bide, and it Is like
enough that for a month or more you
may find us there, ere we are ready
for our voyage back to France."
It was hard indeed for Alleyne to
break away from these two new but
hearty friends, and so strong was the
ccmbat between his conscience and his
inclinations that he dared not look
round, lest his resolution should slip
away from him.
The path which the young clerk haa
now to follow lay through a magnifi
cent forest of the very heaviest timber,
where the giant boles of oak and of
beech formed long aisles in every di
rection, shooting up their huge
branches to build the majestic arches
of Nature's own cathedral. It was
very still there In the heart of the
woodlands. The gentle rustle of the
branches- and the distant coning of
pigeons were the only sounds which,
broke In upon the silence, save that
once Alleyne heard afar off a merry
call upon a hunting bugle and the
shrill yapping of the hounds. He
pushed on the quicker, twirling his
staff merrily, and looklmr out at every
tui' 3' the path for Borne sign of the
old Saxon residence. He was HudXlenly
arrested, however, by the appearance
of a wild-looking fellow armed with a.
club, who sprang out from behind a
tree and barred his passage. He was
a rough, powerful peasant, with cap
and tunic of untanned sheepskin,
leather breeches, and galllgafJtlns
round Ms lees and feet.
"Stand!" he shouted, raiding bis
heavy cudgel to enforce the order.
"Who are you who wnik so freely
throii'-h the wood?" Wh'ther would
yon en, and what is your errand?"
"Whv should T answer your ques
tions, rtiv friend'"' said Alleyne, stand
Ine on his guard.
"Because vour tntimie may save
vr.nr psto. What bast In the scrip?"
"Nnurht of any price."
How can T tell that, clerk? Let me
see."
' "Mot T."
"nw T could pu'l you limb from
limb HV a pullet. Wouldst lose scrip
and life too"
"I will part with neither without a
fight."
"X fight, quotha? A fight bttwlxt