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About Eugene weekly. (Eugene, Oregon) 1993-current | View Entire Issue (Jan. 27, 2005)
CHOW! WINTER 2005 G re co pies El IN THE SKY Eugene pizza makers are a slice above the rest. B Y M ELISSA B EARNS it all by itself. Drizzled with olive oil and just salty enough to bring out the light, fluffy oven-baked flavor, it won over even the hardened white-bread skeptics at the table. Moving upward in our slice, we get to the pesto. Whatever pesto Cozmic Pizza uses, they’ve figured out that when it comes to this element, less is more. Without any of the nasty oils, fillers and thickeners you often find in store-bought brands, the fla- vors of pungent basil, virgin olive oil, salt and pine nuts blend together forming a per- fect compliment for the next layer: the cheese and toppings. The sauteed crimini mushrooms add a slightly smoky, rich flavor that blends with the mouthwatering roasted garlic, packing a subtle punch in every bite. The organic sausage is also delicious, light, lean and full of tasty goodness. L ast but not least, our search for the perfect slice took us to Ambrosia . It doesn’t jump to your mind when or years, Chow featured a section called Triple Scoop. A writer would sample you think pizza? Well, it should. First of it’s got the best atmosphere and something small, even snack-sized, from three different locations around town then all, ambiance of any pizza-serving restaurant tried. With ornate lamps, dark wood, review, compare and contrast. We’re not sure why the tasty tradition fell by the we dim lighting, and nooks and crannies for wayside, but we’re bringing it back and we’re starting with an old favorite: pizza. intimate dining, this is the place to go if good wine and great conversation are also Welcome to Triple Slice. on the menu. iavolo El D Pizza comes in one size: s ’ ia s 10 thin, crisp, Italian-style ro tain of vegetables including broccoli, cauli- inches. This is not a whole wheat crust. or pure novelty, amazing combina- flower, lightly marinated eggplant, tomatoes, thick, doughy affair, Order à la carte tions you’d never try at home and onions, ricotta, pear, chanterelle mushrooms, sopping with sauce. from a long list of straight-up pizza creativity, Pizza roasted potatoes and red peppers. Don’t No. The crust of toppings or choose Research Institute (PRI) takes the pie. expect to put down a whole pie when you Ambrosia’s pizza one of their chef- Tucked away near the corner of 13th and visit PRI — we could barely finish two slices. is light and bal- tested, customer- Lawrence, PRI has made a name for itself It arrived at our table with the toppings ances the crunch approved combos. among pizza enthusiasts for their heaping arranged like a mandala. The fresh veggies of the edges with If you like pesto, I slices loaded with goodies. You won’t find were delicious, but taking a bite of the tow- the inner layer that highly recommend combinations like pear and ricotta or top- ering slice was challenging. I found myself supports the toppings. the Full Moon pizza pings options that include baby corn, dissecting it, munching happily on my Ambrosia eschews the on a whole wheat crust peaches, or buttermilk-poppyseed dressing favorite toppings. The slightly thick crust sweet, overbearing sauces with sausage. Something anywhere else in town. In 2004, Eugene was necessary to support all the melted you’ll often find at mass-mar- about the combination of Weekly readers voted PRI one of the best cheese and vegetable deliciousness on top. ket pizzerias, which turn out pies pesto, mozzarella, roasted garlic, pizza joints in Eugene. The light and flavorful sauce with hints of conveyor-belt style. The simple mixture of mushrooms and meat makes this pizza one Founded by Will and Usha Boise in oregano, basil and garlic nicely compli- tomato sauce, spices and salt is used the way of the best I’ve ever eaten. If pesto isn’t 1997, the space is small and intimate. You’re mented the veggies and added a kick. you’d handle an amazing salad dressing — your thing, other options include the right there with the guy at the front taking sparingly, to accentuate rather than override. Odysseus (spinach, artichoke hearts and orders and baking the delightful herb dough. We tried two different combos: El feta) or the Orion (pepperoni, sausage, red They must put the dough oven up front or an out-of-this-world pizza experi- Diavolo and El Greco. Both were amaz- onion and kalamata olives). intentionally, because it fills the space with a ence, there’s no better place than ing. El Diavolo (which means the devil But back to the luscious Full Moon. wonderful aroma. Standing at the counter, Cozmic Pizza . All the ingredients in Italian) came loaded with some of the The crust is crispy where it should be and one customer remarked, “That herb dough is and toppings are organic, from the flour to most delicious sausage to ever grace a packed with so much flavor you could eat amazing. A friend of mine is coming to visit the sausage. You even have the option of a pizza. A wonderful change from greasy from Chicago, and I told him the first place PRI’ f hunks of overly seasoned meat one is we’re coming is here.” o s Che ple usually served, the sausage on El Diavolo Part of the PRI philosophy involves a f’s am x e Ch was much finer in texture as well as fla- meatless existence — they don’t serve any oi An ce vor. Almost ground, it was evenly distrib- carnivorous concoctions. But with so many . uted over the entire pizza, adding a hint interesting toppings to choose from, even the of smoke to each juicy bite. Along with meat-and-potatoes crowd will be happy. For the sweet red peppers and red onions, the PRI crew, the creative options are a way every slice was perfectly balanced flavor of life. “This is an extension of who we are,” perfection. Will Boise said. “Four of our six employees The El Greco was a nice contrast, are directly related to us. This is our family topped with feta, basil and tomatoes. and we like to keep it fun and interesting. If Bursting with just-picked-from-the-garden someone has something they want to try, the freshness, the slight sweetness of the chef’s choice makes that possible because tomatoes offset the pungent feta and even if that item doesn’t work, there’s still a savory basil. lot on the pizza.” One topping that never Whether you choose the crazy and quite made it was cactus leaves. Yup, those creative slices at PRI, the organic and crazy kids at PRI will try anything. tasty toppings at Cozmic, or the truly For the authentic PRI experience, sample Italian experience at Ambrosia, they’ll do a slice of the chef’s choice at least once. The you right. night we visited, we were treated to a moun- ew F Am b F F www.eugeneweekly.com CHOW! JANUARY 27, 2005 3
