CHOW! WINTER 2005
G
re
co
pies
El
IN THE SKY
Eugene pizza makers are a slice above the rest.
B Y M ELISSA B EARNS
it all by itself. Drizzled with olive oil and
just salty enough to bring out the light,
fluffy oven-baked flavor, it won over even
the hardened white-bread skeptics at the
table.
Moving upward in our slice, we get to
the pesto. Whatever pesto Cozmic Pizza
uses, they’ve figured out that when it comes
to this element, less is more. Without any of
the nasty oils, fillers and thickeners you
often find in store-bought brands, the fla-
vors of pungent basil, virgin olive oil, salt
and pine nuts blend together forming a per-
fect compliment for the next layer: the
cheese and toppings.
The sauteed crimini mushrooms add a
slightly smoky, rich flavor that blends with
the mouthwatering roasted garlic, packing a
subtle punch in every bite. The organic
sausage is also delicious, light, lean and full
of tasty goodness.
L
ast but not least, our search for the
perfect slice took us to Ambrosia .
It doesn’t jump to your mind when
or years, Chow featured a section called Triple Scoop. A writer would sample you think pizza? Well, it should. First of
it’s got the best atmosphere and
something small, even snack-sized, from three different locations around town then all,
ambiance of any pizza-serving restaurant
tried. With ornate lamps, dark wood,
review, compare and contrast. We’re not sure why the tasty tradition fell by the we
dim lighting, and nooks and crannies for
wayside, but we’re bringing it back and we’re starting with an old favorite: pizza. intimate dining, this is the place to go if
good wine and great conversation are also
Welcome to Triple Slice.
on the menu.
iavolo
El D
Pizza comes in one size:
s
’
ia
s
10 thin, crisp, Italian-style
ro
tain of vegetables including broccoli, cauli-
inches. This is not a
whole wheat crust.
or pure novelty, amazing combina-
flower, lightly marinated eggplant, tomatoes,
thick, doughy affair,
Order à la carte
tions you’d never try at home and
onions, ricotta, pear, chanterelle mushrooms,
sopping with sauce.
from a long list of
straight-up pizza creativity, Pizza
roasted potatoes and red peppers. Don’t
No. The crust of
toppings or choose
Research Institute (PRI) takes the pie.
expect to put down a whole pie when you
Ambrosia’s pizza
one of their chef-
Tucked away near the corner of 13th and
visit PRI — we could barely finish two slices.
is light and bal-
tested, customer-
Lawrence, PRI has made a name for itself
It arrived at our table with the toppings
ances the crunch
approved combos.
among pizza enthusiasts for their heaping
arranged like a mandala. The fresh veggies
of the edges with
If you like pesto, I
slices loaded with goodies. You won’t find
were delicious, but taking a bite of the tow-
the inner layer that
highly recommend
combinations like pear and ricotta or top-
ering slice was challenging. I found myself
supports the toppings.
the Full Moon pizza
pings options that include baby corn,
dissecting it, munching happily on my
Ambrosia eschews the
on a whole wheat crust
peaches, or buttermilk-poppyseed dressing
favorite toppings. The slightly thick crust
sweet, overbearing sauces
with sausage. Something
anywhere else in town. In 2004, Eugene
was necessary to support all the melted
you’ll often find at mass-mar-
about the combination of
Weekly readers voted PRI one of the best
cheese and vegetable deliciousness on top.
ket pizzerias, which turn out pies
pesto, mozzarella, roasted garlic,
pizza joints in Eugene.
The light and flavorful sauce with hints of
conveyor-belt style. The simple mixture of
mushrooms and meat makes this pizza one
Founded by Will and Usha Boise in
oregano, basil and garlic nicely compli-
tomato sauce, spices and salt is used the way
of the best I’ve ever eaten. If pesto isn’t
1997, the space is small and intimate. You’re
mented the veggies and added a kick.
you’d handle an amazing salad dressing —
your thing, other options include the
right there with the guy at the front taking
sparingly, to accentuate rather than override.
Odysseus (spinach, artichoke hearts and
orders and baking the delightful herb dough.
We tried two different combos: El
feta) or the Orion (pepperoni, sausage, red
They must put the dough oven up front
or an out-of-this-world pizza experi-
Diavolo and El Greco. Both were amaz-
onion and kalamata olives).
intentionally, because it fills the space with a
ence, there’s no better place than
ing. El Diavolo (which means the devil
But back to the luscious Full Moon.
wonderful aroma. Standing at the counter,
Cozmic Pizza . All the ingredients
in Italian) came loaded with some of the
The crust is crispy where it should be and
one customer remarked, “That herb dough is
and toppings are organic, from the flour to
most delicious sausage to ever grace a
packed with so much flavor you could eat
amazing. A friend of mine is coming to visit
the sausage. You even have the option of a
pizza. A wonderful change from greasy
from Chicago, and I told him the first place
PRI’
f
hunks of overly seasoned meat one is
we’re coming is here.”
o
s
Che
ple
usually served, the sausage on El Diavolo
Part of the PRI philosophy involves a
f’s
am
x
e
Ch
was much finer in texture as well as fla-
meatless existence — they don’t serve any
oi
An
ce
vor. Almost ground, it was evenly distrib-
carnivorous concoctions. But with so many
.
uted over the entire pizza, adding a hint
interesting toppings to choose from, even the
of smoke to each juicy bite. Along with
meat-and-potatoes crowd will be happy. For
the sweet red peppers and red onions,
the PRI crew, the creative options are a way
every slice was perfectly balanced flavor
of life. “This is an extension of who we are,”
perfection.
Will Boise said. “Four of our six employees
The El Greco was a nice contrast,
are directly related to us. This is our family
topped with feta, basil and tomatoes.
and we like to keep it fun and interesting. If
Bursting with just-picked-from-the-garden
someone has something they want to try, the
freshness, the slight sweetness of the
chef’s choice makes that possible because
tomatoes offset the pungent feta and
even if that item doesn’t work, there’s still a
savory basil.
lot on the pizza.” One topping that never
Whether you choose the crazy and
quite made it was cactus leaves. Yup, those
creative slices at PRI, the organic and
crazy kids at PRI will try anything.
tasty toppings at Cozmic, or the truly
For the authentic PRI experience, sample
Italian experience at Ambrosia, they’ll do
a slice of the chef’s choice at least once. The
you right.
night we visited, we were treated to a moun-
ew
F
Am
b
F
F
www.eugeneweekly.com
CHOW! JANUARY 27, 2005 3