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About Just out. (Portland, OR) 1983-2013 | View Entire Issue (April 6, 2007)
42lUStOUtAPRiLfi¿22¿ Southern Exposure An eye-opening spring break in Mexico Y O ou’ll come hack a different person," friends kept telling me upon hearing that I was headed to Mexico for the first time. I wasn’t sure what to make of this warning: I’ll return emaciated from all of the dysen tery? I’ll become addicted to telenovelas? What? Now 1 get it. After nine days and eight nights on the beaches and in the city of Oaxaca, 1 see what all the fuss is about. But I’m still trying to put my finger on what exactly made this vacation so magical.... BY JIM RADOSTA • The language? For a guy who thrives on communication, 1 found myself in the unusual position of having few words to express myself, I’m hack, 1 can still sample Oaxacan cuisine at other than familiar but useless phrases like La isla» Nuestra Cocina, 2135 S.E. Division St. bonita and Quien es esa niña? (As a sharp-tongued • The drink? Central Oaxaca state is renowned pal observed, “You don’t speak Spanish—you speak for producing Mexico’s best mezcal, a cousin of Madonna!’’) Fortunately, I had a fluent traveling , tequila. During a particularly festive night in the companion, Jordi, who handled translation duties Zocalo (town square), we spotted a crowd growing like a pro. This skill partic ularly came in handy when a hotel removed one of the beds from our riKim, having mistaken us for a hetero couple. • The acceptance? The only queers I identified were a transvestite walking down rhe street in Oaxaca City and a group of four beautiful men frolicking on the nude beach of Zipolite (where I stayed in the sun too long, leading to the nickname “Langosta Radosta”). Al though I didn’t hit any gay bars, I briefly visited an empty queer cybercafe called B Proud. If we had more time, we would’ve visited the nearby town of Juchitiin, Diving into my first plate of grasshoppers in the zócalo of Oaxaca where, according to the City. High in protein! Immigration and Refugee Board of Canada, “the population tends to be around a marching band, which had smartly desig tolerant of male homosexuals, called muxes by the nated one generous fellow to provide free shots to local population. They are seen as insurance for the listeners. parents’ old age, because they are not expected to • The art? I’ve long been drawn to the bold marry and leave home.... Every year the town has colors of Mexican folk art, so it was an added bonus a muxe festival, referred to as the Vigil of the True that Oaxaca is one of the country’s major handi Fearless Danger Seekers.... The city’s top office crafts centers. Get yourself an eyeful without holders (who for decades have been from leftist leaving town at gay-owned Onda Arte Latina, parties) take part in the celebration." 2215 N.E. Alberta St. •wThe progressives? Last year a teachers’ • The hospitality? This is the factor that has strike in Oaxaca City led to five months of unrest stuck with me the most. It’s hard to describe when activists seized the downtown, demanding without coming across as condescending, but I’ve the removal of Gov. Ulises Ruiz. Even though never experienced such courtesy in all my life. This things are back to normal, tourism has been came as a real jolt, considering I can’t stand the hurting ever since. Here in Portland, Radical “forced flair" found in the suburbs of America—nor Women and the Freedom Socialist Party present the “forced snarkiness’’ found among so many ed an eyewitness report and roundtable discussion Portland servers. Everyone in Mexico—from the Jan. 30 to update locals on the movement’s masseur in Mazunte who insisted on coating my imminent comeback. sunburned skin with freshly cut aloe vera, to the • The food? My last supper before leaving bed-and-breakfast owner who doted on us every Portland was a cheese-drenched tamale at the bland morning—seemed genuine in their offers of hospi restaurant Mazatlan, so it was refreshing to see that tality. This, more than anything, makes me miss Mexico already. © Mexicans have much better taste in their home JORDI LEEB Jim s Closet bistro Serye attitude. April 19, 20, & 21 Complimentary appetizers Thursday April 19 1 /2 PRICE APPETIZERS - 3pm - 8pm ¡Taco 'üïGedzçG ° o [SíDGEto Wnroâteçe O KM«®© 1W50 O EtHDSÚag ftr0ás£7 a Open daily for lunch, dinner, drinks and fun Full Menu available 1 lam to 2:30 am 633 SE Powell Blvd • Portland, OR • 503-230-BENT country. The regional specialty is mole negro— , a dark, spicy, slightly sweet sauce—but truly daring Arts and (Culture Editor J1M RAIX’JSTA needs your tourists try the chafndines (grasshoppers). Now that feedback. Write to jim@justout.com.