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Southern Exposure
An eye-opening spring break in Mexico
Y
O
ou’ll come hack a different person,"
friends kept telling me upon hearing
that I was headed to Mexico for the
first time.
I wasn’t sure what to make of this
warning: I’ll return emaciated from all of the dysen
tery? I’ll become addicted to telenovelas? What?
Now 1 get it. After nine days and eight nights
on the beaches and in the city of Oaxaca, 1 see
what all the fuss is about. But I’m still trying to put
my finger on what exactly made this vacation so
magical....
BY JIM RADOSTA
• The language? For a guy who thrives on
communication, 1 found myself in the unusual
position of having few words to express myself,
I’m hack, 1 can still sample Oaxacan cuisine at
other than familiar but useless phrases like La isla» Nuestra Cocina, 2135 S.E. Division St.
bonita and Quien es esa niña? (As a sharp-tongued
• The drink? Central Oaxaca state is renowned
pal observed, “You don’t speak Spanish—you speak
for producing Mexico’s best mezcal, a cousin of
Madonna!’’) Fortunately, I had a fluent traveling , tequila. During a particularly festive night in the
companion, Jordi, who handled translation duties
Zocalo (town square), we spotted a crowd growing
like a pro. This skill partic
ularly came in handy when
a hotel removed one of the
beds from our riKim, having
mistaken us for a hetero
couple.
• The acceptance? The
only queers I identified were
a transvestite walking down
rhe street in Oaxaca City
and a group of four beautiful
men frolicking on the nude
beach of Zipolite (where
I stayed in the sun too long,
leading to the nickname
“Langosta Radosta”). Al
though I didn’t hit any gay
bars, I briefly visited an
empty queer cybercafe called
B Proud. If we had more
time, we would’ve visited
the nearby town of Juchitiin,
Diving into my first plate of grasshoppers in the zócalo of Oaxaca
where, according to the
City. High in protein!
Immigration and Refugee
Board of Canada, “the population tends to be
around a marching band, which had smartly desig
tolerant of male homosexuals, called muxes by the
nated one generous fellow to provide free shots to
local population. They are seen as insurance for
the listeners.
parents’ old age, because they are not expected to
• The art? I’ve long been drawn to the bold
marry and leave home.... Every year the town has
colors of Mexican folk art, so it was an added bonus
a muxe festival, referred to as the Vigil of the True
that Oaxaca is one of the country’s major handi
Fearless Danger Seekers.... The city’s top office crafts centers. Get yourself an eyeful without
holders (who for decades have been from leftist
leaving town at gay-owned Onda Arte Latina,
parties) take part in the celebration."
2215 N.E. Alberta St.
•wThe progressives? Last year a teachers’
• The hospitality? This is the factor that has
strike in Oaxaca City led to five months of unrest
stuck with me the most. It’s hard to describe
when activists seized the downtown, demanding
without coming across as condescending, but I’ve
the removal of Gov. Ulises Ruiz. Even though
never experienced such courtesy in all my life. This
things are back to normal, tourism has been
came as a real jolt, considering I can’t stand the
hurting ever since. Here in Portland, Radical
“forced flair" found in the suburbs of America—nor
Women and the Freedom Socialist Party present the “forced snarkiness’’ found among so many
ed an eyewitness report and roundtable discussion
Portland servers. Everyone in Mexico—from the
Jan. 30 to update locals on the movement’s
masseur in Mazunte who insisted on coating my
imminent comeback.
sunburned skin with freshly cut aloe vera, to the
• The food? My last supper before leaving
bed-and-breakfast owner who doted on us every
Portland was a cheese-drenched tamale at the bland
morning—seemed genuine in their offers of hospi
restaurant Mazatlan, so it was refreshing to see that
tality. This, more than anything, makes me miss
Mexico already. ©
Mexicans have much better taste in their home
JORDI LEEB
Jim s Closet
bistro
Serye attitude.
April 19, 20, & 21
Complimentary appetizers Thursday April 19
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Open daily for lunch, dinner, drinks and fun
Full Menu available 1 lam to 2:30 am
633 SE Powell Blvd • Portland, OR • 503-230-BENT
country. The regional specialty is mole negro— ,
a dark, spicy, slightly sweet sauce—but truly daring
Arts and (Culture Editor J1M RAIX’JSTA needs your
tourists try the chafndines (grasshoppers). Now that feedback. Write to jim@justout.com.