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About Just out. (Portland, OR) 1983-2013 | View Entire Issue (Jan. 20, 2006)
JANUARY 20. 2006 |USt OU/ eating_____ eatingout eating eating_____ eating eating_____ eating 3551 SE Division Street 503-236-6890 BY JENNY NGUYEN Clinton in '06 ’m the last to admit Southeast is in. I’m not talking old-news Hawthorne or Belmont. I’m referring to the deep SE: Clinton. Speed bumps and high-density housing dot the once ne’er-traveled Division side street, fast becom ing a thoroughfare of its own. At the center of the FEATURING Stumptown coffee, Gabriel’s Bakery & vegan goodies VISIT www.havencoffee.com for events calendar hubbub is the four-way stop at Clinton and 26th. This ’Couverite hopped from comer to comer in WE NOW HAVE WI-FI hopes of getting a taste of the faraway land. Noho's Hawaiian Café • 2525 S.E. Clinton St. This tiny Hawaiian hut packs a meaty punch with Goliath portions. Vegetarians fear not, tofu and veggie dishes are also offered, but note: The meat here is money. You choose your poison, an already big menehune for smaller appetites or the outlandishly enormous blalah for gluttons. Don’t worry—sticky rice and macaroni salad accompany everything. Phil’s Ono Chicken is the most delec table pile of melt-on-your-tongue tender chicken I’ve ever sampled. The Korean short ribs are unmatched in charbroil flavor from the searing hot grill, and Portuguese sausage is a nice spicy addition. Noho’s is big on meat and big on big, so prepare to get more than your buck’s worth. SubRosa • 2601 S.E. Clinton St. Just less than a year old, SubRosa has a devout following. No wonder: Thin-crusted, oblong pizzas are brilliant with ease and simplicity. The most complex of SubRosa’s pizzas, the Northwest by Southeast, is still just a straightforward crown of rich gorgonzola, crispy caramelized onions, walnuts and a whisper of rosemary. The Blue Rosa salad of roasted beets, bleu cheese and hazelnuts was well worth the measly $4. And the 6-buck cheese plate Violet’s Café bowed from a ginormous wedge of ultra-rich Pierre Robert Triple Cream, making it the world’s best (cheap) cheese plate EVER! After paying just shy of a $25 tab, we walked out full, happy and with leftovers as a reminder of just why SubRosa is more than “a friendly neighborhood joint.” It’s a bargain. Savoy Tavern and Bistro • 2500 S.E. Clinton St. Two side-by-side rooms illustrate the off-bipolar feel of Savoy. While the tavern is a dark, boisterous room lined with mirrors and woodchuck artifacts, the bistro is bright, white-tableclothed and quiet. My “champagne tastes and beer budget” landed us a GREAT STEAK DINNERS fine hxith in the bar, where the crowd was so Southeast. Twentysomethings in down vests casual w\\\\\\\w ly pounded pints from the extensive beer list while YOU DON’T HAVE TO EAT a couple of finely dressed baby boomers sipped brightly colored martinis next to us. The assemblage wasn’t the only example of diversity, either. Sure, there were perfect burgers, fries and cheesy mac, but where else have you seen plump chicken croquettes with currants, breaded cheese curds, smoked trout and skirt steak on rhe same bar menu? Nowhere. PRICED SO THAT 5204 NE Sacramento at 52nd & Sandy Blvd We’re not a national chain of expensive steak houses. We’re a Portland, Oregon favorite. And for over 55 years, we’ve been bringing families together with great meals at pria so reasonable you’ll never eat alone. Unless, of, course, you want somy pecyce and quiet. Savoy pairs an anything-goes atmosphere with an everyth ing’s-g<xxl food den. J enny N guyen would love to hear from you, especially if you’re the one sending the cryptic mystery packages. Write her at jenny0080@hotmail.com. Open 7am-2pm Thursday-Monday OLDCOÜUMTÇra 105th & S.E. Stark • (503) 252-4171 J
