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About Just out. (Portland, OR) 1983-2013 | View Entire Issue (Jan. 23, 2004)
36 J January 23. 2QQ4 eating out eatingout eatin out eatingout eatingout eatingout A day in the lil of an Epiqueerean N O R T H W E S T C U IS IN E W IT H T H E F L A V O R S O F IN D O N E S IA Special " Valentine’s Dinner” Make reservations now Dinner and Sm all Plates: Wednesday — Sunday Sunday B runch: 10am - 3pm. UlTfi CAFE 4741 S E Hawthorne Blvd, Portland, Oregon Phone: 503.236.2845 R eaders, I have failed you. My dining adven tures in the past month did not yield a uni fying theme. I blame the snow storm— the city’s handy whipping boy for all manner of sour moods and slacker behavior at the new year’s advent. 1 couldn’t park in those ice ruts! And while, yes, 1 could have taken a bus, I would have fainted with low blood sugar before 1 reached my destination. Luckily, the ice melt ed and on one humble Monday I traveled the city far and wide to dine at these three fine eat ing establishments. + Using local & organic ingredients S t Honoré Boulangerie • 2335 N.W. Thurman S t + All organic produce + Mostly vegetarian/vegan menu SUPERBOWL? WHAT SUPERBOWL? + Serving fresh panini sandwiches Come February 1st to enjoy a Sunday with good food, a quiet atmosphere, and absolutely no beer commercials. + Delicious homemade soups & bold salads open 7 nights a week friday, Saturday late + Local hormone-free beef burgers NE 28th & Davis 503-288-3777 + Specialty and breakfast items too! D ashing to work, I stopped off at my new neighborhood French bakery, which has been packed since it opened a few months ago. So big and airy and bright. So tempting to linger and flirt with the beguiling woman behind the counter. But 1 had a restaurant profile to write (see Page 41 ), so 1 departed with what 1 discov ered to be the most perfectly browned, flaky and buttery croissant this side of the Seine. Don’t miss the pain au chocolat or brioche either. reservations for 6 or more private dining room available + Local organic beer, wine, & fresh juices Milo’s City Cafe • 1325 N.E. Broadway B ¿ id C,¿faA*i*£ 4 P ic k U p a P arty SM OKED SALMON PATE & FR ES H H E R B E D M O N TRECH ET C H EV R E WITH C R A C K E R S & V E G E T A B L E S RICOTTA T A R T LE T S C H E E S E & H ER B S T U F F E D V E G E T A B LE R O LLS CHICKEN SATAY W/ PEANUT DIPPING SA U CE LEMON TA RTS HONEY S P IC E CA K ES S E R V E S 12-16 $ 9 9 C*l/L MU CAFÉ @ 2 7 1 6 NE MARTIN LUTHER KING JR . BLVD. PHONE 5 0 3 .2 8 8 .4 1 6 9 - FAX 5 0 3 .2 8 8 .4 1 7 5 Qdlooe Jto bhinq qou A jdaqa bui 9 hew on i met qou J-indm e in ike ÿuhi J-hiendh Uoice ßehAonuU on puqe 4 6 oh while qouh own ftiee SO wohd a d a t www.iuAtout.com y noon, 1 was famished. Admittedly, I didn’t get much protein for breakfast, and the sensual buzz from the bakery had long since faded. So it was off to Irvington neighborhood establishment Milo’s — the place to go for omelets. Seeing as how it was lunchtime, my choice became more complicated. Should 1 go for the Marianne Benedict (filet mignon and béarnaise), the Pesto Penne Primavera or a gigantic Cobh Salad? I decided to carry the butter theme over into midday with a Monte Cristo french toast sandwich with ham, turkey and Swiss. Hey, it’s winter, I need the extra calories. It was delicious. Caffe Allora • 509 N.W. Ninth Awe. I stepped inside this narrow Pearl bistro and 1 was transported to a cosmopolitan European 1 city like, say, Milan— where owner Paulo Parrilli hails from. Small tables are comfortably close together, and people linger over their meals while disco music reigns in the back ground. Finally, I managed something healthy for the day: The arugula salad with apples comes alive with fresh vinegar and coarse black pepper. The ravioli sampler is incredibly vibrant and simple; pumpkin, spinach and porcini mushroom were the evening’s flavors, all sauteed lightly in— you guessed it— a sage butter. An unbearably handsome waiter gives me a knowing look. Perhaps he’s the one Paulo tells me is gay hut doesn’t know it yet? I’ll send my friend Jim on a reconnaissance mission and get hack to you.
