Just out. (Portland, OR) 1983-2013, January 23, 2004, Page 36, Image 36

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    36 J
January 23. 2QQ4
eating out
eatingout
eatin out
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A day in the lil
of an Epiqueerean
N O R T H W E S T
C U IS IN E
W IT H
T H E
F L A V O R S
O F
IN D O N E S IA
Special " Valentine’s Dinner” Make reservations now
Dinner and Sm all Plates: Wednesday — Sunday
Sunday B runch: 10am - 3pm.
UlTfi CAFE
4741 S E Hawthorne Blvd, Portland, Oregon
Phone: 503.236.2845
R
eaders, I have failed you. My dining adven­
tures in the past month did not yield a uni­
fying theme. I blame the snow storm— the
city’s handy whipping boy for all manner of
sour moods and slacker behavior at the new
year’s advent. 1 couldn’t park in those ice ruts!
And while, yes, 1 could have taken a bus, I
would have fainted with low blood sugar before
1 reached my destination. Luckily, the ice melt­
ed and on one humble Monday I traveled the
city far and wide to dine at these three fine eat­
ing establishments.
+ Using local & organic ingredients
S t Honoré Boulangerie •
2335 N.W. Thurman S t
+ All organic produce
+ Mostly vegetarian/vegan menu
SUPERBOWL? WHAT SUPERBOWL?
+ Serving fresh panini sandwiches
Come February 1st to enjoy a Sunday
with good food, a quiet atmosphere,
and absolutely no beer commercials.
+ Delicious homemade soups
& bold salads
open
7
nights a
week
friday, Saturday late
+ Local hormone-free beef burgers
NE 28th & Davis
503-288-3777
+ Specialty and breakfast items too!
D
ashing to work, I stopped off at my new
neighborhood French bakery, which has
been packed since it opened a few months
ago. So big and airy and bright. So tempting to
linger and flirt with the beguiling woman behind
the counter. But 1 had a restaurant profile to write
(see Page 41 ), so 1 departed with what 1 discov­
ered to be the most perfectly browned, flaky and
buttery croissant this side of the Seine. Don’t miss
the pain au chocolat or brioche either.
reservations for 6 or more
private dining room available
+ Local organic beer, wine,
& fresh juices
Milo’s City Cafe • 1325 N.E. Broadway
B
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SM OKED SALMON PATE &
FR ES H H E R B E D M O N TRECH ET C H EV R E
WITH C R A C K E R S & V E G E T A B L E S
RICOTTA T A R T LE T S
C H E E S E & H ER B S T U F F E D V E G E T A B LE R O LLS
CHICKEN SATAY W/ PEANUT DIPPING SA U CE
LEMON TA RTS
HONEY S P IC E CA K ES
S E R V E S 12-16 $ 9 9
C*l/L MU
CAFÉ @ 2 7 1 6 NE MARTIN LUTHER KING JR . BLVD.
PHONE 5 0 3 .2 8 8 .4 1 6 9 - FAX 5 0 3 .2 8 8 .4 1 7 5
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y noon, 1 was famished. Admittedly, I didn’t
get much protein for breakfast, and the
sensual buzz from the bakery had long since
faded. So it was off to Irvington neighborhood
establishment Milo’s — the place to go for
omelets. Seeing as how it was lunchtime, my
choice became more complicated. Should 1 go
for the Marianne Benedict (filet mignon and
béarnaise), the Pesto Penne Primavera or a
gigantic Cobh Salad? I decided to carry the
butter theme over into midday with a Monte
Cristo french toast sandwich with ham, turkey
and Swiss. Hey, it’s winter, I need the extra
calories. It was delicious.
Caffe Allora • 509 N.W. Ninth Awe.
I stepped inside this narrow Pearl bistro and
1 was transported to a cosmopolitan European
1 city like, say, Milan— where owner Paulo
Parrilli hails from. Small tables are comfortably
close together, and people linger over their
meals while disco music reigns in the back­
ground. Finally, I managed something healthy
for the day: The arugula salad with apples
comes alive with fresh vinegar and coarse black
pepper. The ravioli sampler is incredibly
vibrant and simple; pumpkin, spinach and
porcini mushroom were the evening’s flavors,
all sauteed lightly in— you guessed it— a sage
butter. An unbearably handsome waiter gives
me a knowing look. Perhaps he’s the one Paulo
tells me is gay hut doesn’t know it yet? I’ll send
my friend Jim on a reconnaissance mission and
get hack to you.