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About The Observer. (La Grande, Or.) 1968-current | View Entire Issue (Oct. 27, 2020)
TUESDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2020 GARLIC Continued from Page 2B B And while vegan and d vegetarian cooks may use it to bring that umami depth epth to vegetable dishes, some e meat cooks use it for the same me quality but for a different ent reason: to reinforce the e meaty fl avor already present. . Los Angeles’ barbecue master, ster, Kevin Bludso — a judge ge on the Netfl ix cook- ing competition show “American Barbecue Showdown” — is one such cook, having used d le garlic powder his whole life. He learned early on n- to treat it as its own in- ng gredient, not something h to use only when fresh isn’t available. “Garlic powder — or r granulated garlic as we call it — melds with the meat and ark smoke to create that bark akes it on the brisket that makes It gets perfect,” Bludso says. “It into the seams of the meat and gives it just a hint t of garlic that brings out all the lways other fl avors. People always say you can’t taste it, but if n you you don’t put it in, then notice it’s missing! It’s just like cayenne: If you use it right, it’s an enhancer, but if you use too much, it overpow- ers everything.” This unique characteristic of garlic powder — its ability to add a loaded dose of sweet funk where the pungent punch of fresh garlic has no business being — is also why it’s often used as the backbone for concentrated seasonings in potato chips, nut mixes and other salty snack mixes. In fact, my favorite treat from my child- hood in the South uses it as the primary fl avoring. Called “fi recrackers,” saltines — or “soup and oyster” crackers in my home — are doused in oil fl avored with the umami- packed allium along with onion powder, dried ranch dressing powder and plenty of crushed red chile fl akes. After the initial heat of the chile fl akes subsides, you get the salty sweetness from the garlic powder that makes you reactively grab another handful. It’s a common snack in households across the South because it uses ingredients everyone has. And whether all home cooks will admit it or not, everyone has garlic powder. It’s this ubiquity that led Burlap & Barrel, a New York-based spice company known for selling a meticu- lously curated collection of single-origin spices, to begin carrying garlic powder in its inventory. “I really wanted it in our lineup because I use it and love it and think it really elevates the fl avor of a dish, especially savory baked goods like cornbread,” says Burlap & Barrel co-founder Ori Zohar. “And when we looked at what the cooks were actu- ally using, we realized that everyone has garlic powder in their pantry. But, at the same time, a big consideration for inclusion in our spice lineup is always to pick spices that are really fl avorful and have a great story, and garlic powder is typically neither of those things.” But a trip to Vietnam early last year found Zohar and business partner Ethan Frisch tasting a garlic that SPICE Continued from Page 2B Preheat oven to 425 de- grees. Whisk chili powder, black pepper, cinnamon, cumin and HOME & LIVING but you y can use any garlic powder you have. If you want powd a classic clas Southern-style corn- bread for other uses, simply omit the garlic powder here. These crackers were a staple at any party my par- ents threw when I was a kid. The traditional recipe uses larger saltine crackers, while this riff uses smaller soup & 1 cup plus 4 teaspoons oyster crackers, which are fi n ne yellow cornmeal easier to pick at and eat with 1 cup all-purpose fl our your fi ngers or shovel into 1 tablespoon tab baking powder your mouth at once. I prefer 1 tea teaspoon Diamond Nabisco’s Premium brand, but Crystal Cry kosher salt any brand will do. Look for 1/4 1/ teaspoon baking soda them in the cracker and cookie 2 cups buttermilk aisle of any grocery store. 2 large eggs Don’t be tempted to use 1/2 cup (1 stick) olive oil or butter here. You unsalted butter, plus want a fl avorless oil to let the more for serving seasonings shine through, un- 1/2 teaspoon adulterated. And melted but- garlic powder ter contains some water, which tends to make the crackers go 1. Place a 9-inch round soggy or have a stale chew to cake c pan or oven-proof them. The traditional recipe skillet sk in the oven and heat uses packets of dry ranch the oven to 425 degrees. seasoning mix; in lieu of that 2. 2 Meanwhile, whisk mix, which contains dairy and toget together 1 cup of the cornmeal, MSG, I use nutritional yeast plus the t fl our, baking powder, to keep the mix vegan while salt a and baking soda in a large also retaining its cheese-like, bowl bowl. In another bowl, whisk umami bite. If you’d like, toget together the buttermilk and however, use two 1-ounce eggs until smooth. Pour the packets (or 1/4 cup) dry ranch liquid ingredients over the dry seasoning mix instead of the Dania Maxwell / ingre ingredients, but do not stir nutritional yeast. Los Angeles Times-TNS them together. As for the salt, I know it 3. R Remove the pan from the may look like a lot, but the Simple fried chicken needs oven, add the butter, then re- only salt, pepper and a original recipes call for double teaspoons freshly ground met their standards and was sprinkling of garlic powder turn the pan to the oven to melt the amount listed here. This is black pepper, divided worth preserving for their the butter, 1 minute. Carefully to highlight the umami an intentionally salty snack, 2 1/8 teaspoons garlic remove the pan from the oven meant to be served with sweetness of the bird. customers. powder, divided and gently swirl it so the butter cocktails during a party or “There was a group of 2 cups all-purpose fl our coats the bottom and halfway farmers growing purple- at the beginning of a meal. If the pan, until golden brown 6 cups vegetable or peanut up the side of the pan. When stripe garlic, so we tried it,” you want, you can halve the oil, vegetable shortening or all over and an instant-read the butter is fully melted, pour amounts of all ingredients and says Zohar. “Theirs was much rendered pork lard, for frying thermometer inserted into it into the liquid ingredients in more fragrant and had a make less, but I guarantee you each piece reads at least 160 the bowl and quickly stir every- won’t have a problem eating more concentrated garlic fl a- degrees, about 15 minutes. The thing together with a small rub- them all very quickly. vor than the larger Chinese- 1. If using a whole chicken, temperature of the oil will drop ber spatula or spoon just until grown type.” fi rst cut off the whole legs on once you add the chicken and the batter combines and there 1 1/3 cups vegetable oil Indeed, its story starts each side and separate the might rise too high over time, are no dry patches of fl our. 1/4 cup nutritional yeast thighs from the drumsticks. as being cast as a cheap, so adjust the heat to maintain 4. Sprinkle the bottom and 1 tablespoon seasoned convenient way to add fl avor Next, cut out the backbone, side of the pan with the remain- salt, such as Lawry’s then remove the center breast- a temperature between 350 to humble food — a reputa- and 360 degrees throughout ing 4 teaspoons cornmeal to 1 tablespoon crushed tion it suffered from for many bone. Halve the breasts to lightly coat, then immediately red chile fl akes separate. Then, cut each breast cooking. years — and being deni- 6. Transfer the chicken to the scrape the batter into the pan 2 teaspoons garlic powder grated for how it compares to crosswise so that one piece its fresh counterpart. Now it’s has the wing with about a third reserved paper bag (or paper and smooth the top. Place the 1 teaspoon onion powder towels) to drain and repeat pan in the oven and bake for 10 1 teaspoon freshly ground lauded by social media cook- of the breast and the other cooking the remaining chicken, minutes. black pepper piece has most of the breast; ing stars and has bespoke allowing the oil to return to 5. Remove the cornbread 10 cups soup and oyster remove the tips from each versions sold by discerning from the oven; the top will crackers, such as Nabisco’s spice companies. Prized once wing if you’d like. You will have 375 degrees before frying. be under-set and still wet on Premium (1 pound 2 again for its indispensability, 8 pieces total; save the chicken While the cooked chicken is still wet with hot oil, sprinkle top. Using your fi ngers (not ounces), or the same weight carcass for making stock or you could say that garlic it with some of the garlic-salt a spoon), sprinkle the garlic of square saltine crackers discard. powder has fi nally arrived. mixture, then let cool for 10 powder evenly over the corn- 2. Set the pieces on a But then again, it never minutes before serving. bread and then return pan to 1. In a large bowl or gallon- large cutting board and dry really went anywhere. Like the oven. Continue baking the size plastic bag, combine the them thoroughly with paper that dependable working VARIATIONS cornbread until golden brown oil, nutritional yeast, seasoned actor — you know their face towels. Season the chicken all • Buttermilk-Brined Fried at the edges and a toothpick salt, chile fl akes, garlic powder, but not their name — whose over with 1 tablespoon salt, inserted in the center comes Chicken onion powder and pepper. 2 teaspoons pepper and 2 career we don’t appreciate After cutting up the chicken out clean, an additional 12 to 15 Whisk together the ingredi- teaspoons garlic powder. In until it outlasts that of the minutes. in Step 1, transfer the pieces ents in the bowl or close the a large bowl or brown paper fl ashier movie stars, garlic 6. Remove the pan from the bag and massage until evenly to a large bowl and mix with powder was under our noses grocery bag, combine the oven and let the cornbread combined. 4 cups buttermilk to coat. the whole time, waiting for us fl our, 1 tablespoon salt and cool for 10 minutes. Invert the 2. Add the oyster crackers the remaining 1 tablespoon Season the buttermilk and to realize what a good thing cornbread and remove it from and toss to ensure that every- pepper; shake to combine. Add chicken liberally with salt we’ve always had. the pan or cut into wedges and thing is evenly coated, then let two chicken pieces to the bowl and pepper, then cover and serve from the pan. Serve with stand for at least 30 minutes, or bag and toss to coat evenly refrigerate for at least 4 hours GARLIC FRIED more butter melted over the stirring every 10 minutes or in the fl our. Transfer the coated or up to overnight. Drain the CHICKEN so to ensure the crackers have pieces to a wire rack set over chicken pieces thoroughly be- top of each wedge or split the Time: 1 hour 15 minutes absorbed the seasonings well. a rimmed baking sheet and fore dredging in the seasoned wedges in half and sandwich Yields: Serves 4 to 8 more butter in their middles, If using a bag, close the bag, repeat dredging the remaining fl our. For a thicker crust, letting the butter melt before lay it on your counter and chicken pieces. return the dredged pieces to Along with salt and pep- gently fl ip and rub the crackers 3. Let all the pieces sit on the bowl of buttermilk to coat, serving. per, garlic powder acts as in the seasonings every 10 the rack for at least 10 min- then dredge a second time in the primary seasoning for minutes. utes, then dredge the pieces a the seasoned fl our. Let rest on VARIATIONS this simple fried chicken, • Southern-Style Skillet 3. Heat the oven to 250 de- second time. Discard the fl our the rack for 10 minutes, as in Cornbread grees. Spread the crackers on inspired by the one made by in the bag, fold the bag fl at Step 3, before frying. Use a 9- to 10-inch cast iron a large rimmed baking sheet. the mother of Kevin Bludso, and reserve the bag. In a small skillet in place of the cake pan. Bake, stirring the crackers bowl, combine the remain- owner of Bludso’s Bar & GARLIC-CRUSTED Heat the skillet on a stovetop halfway through, until fragrant ing 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/8 Que. This recipe uses only a CORNBREAD and dry (you do not want to teaspoon garlic powder and double coating of fl our as a over medium-high heat for Time: 45 minutes toast or color the crackers), crust, which lets the fl avor of reserve. 3 minutes, before adding the Yields: Serves 8 4. Pour the oil or melt the the chicken and seasonings butter and swirling the skillet about 16 minutes. 4. Transfer the baking sheet shine through. If you prefer a shortening or lard in a large, until the butter fully melts. Ori Zohar, one of the co- thicker, crunchier coating, try deep cast-iron skillet or heavy- Pour the butter into the batter, to a wire rack and let cool to room temperature before sprinkle the bottom of the the buttermilk-brined varia- bottomed pot (it should come founders of the spice com- pany Burlap & Barrel, loves skillet with the 4 teaspoons serving. about 3/4 inch up the side). tion, below. Attach a deep-fry thermometer using its garlic powder as an cornmeal, then add the batter. 1 whole chicken (4 to to the side of the pan and heat enhancer on the top of his Bake in the oven according to MAKE AHEAD 5 pounds), or 3 to Store the crackers in air- the fat to 375 degrees over cornbread. He adds it toward the instructions above, omit- 4 pounds chicken tight containers at room tem- medium-high heat. the end of cooking so the pow- ting the garlic powder. drumsticks and thighs perature for up to 1 month. 5. Add half the chicken der blooms in the heat and 2 tablespoons plus 1/2 pieces to the fat and fry, fl ip- forms a fl avorful crust on top. FIRECRACKERS teaspoon Diamond Crystal ping the pieces over every 2 Burlap & Barrel’s uniquely kosher salt, divided to 3 minutes to prevent them aromatic purple-stripe garlic Time: 1 hour Yields: Makes 10 cups 1 tablespoon plus 2 burning where they touch powder is wonderful here, salt together in a small bowl. Using your fi ngers, rub spice mixture onto all sides of pork tenderloin. Place tenderloin in a shallow roasting pan or jelly roll pan. Roast tenderloin in the WHEN YOU HAVE QUESTIONS ABOUT HOSPICE... Ask the experts! GoHO GoHOSPICE.com O S P ICE.com BAKER CITY (541) 524-7688 THE OBSERVER & BAKER CITY HERALD — 3B You don’t have to do this alone. We have the answers and we are ready to help. LA GRANDE (541) 624-5800 preheated oven until no longer pink in the center, about 30 minutes. (An instant-read thermometer inserted into the center should read 150 degrees.) Stir pepper jelly and bal- samic vinegar together in a small saucepan and cook over low heat until jelly is com- pletely melted, 1 to 2 minutes. Brush pepper jelly mixture over pork tenderloin and continue to bake tenderloin until jelly coating is hot, about 5 minutes more. Let pork rest for 5 minutes before slicing. Serve with roasted potatoes and a green salad. Serves 4. For All your Meat processing needs Schedule Early! For our Mobile Truck! Bring in your Game Trim. We will make it into Sausage, Jerky & Burger! Baker County CUSTOM MEATS 2390 11th Street Baker City OR. Owners Del & Jana Woodcock