TUESDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2020
GARLIC
Continued from Page 2B
B
And while vegan and d
vegetarian cooks may use it
to bring that umami depth
epth to
vegetable dishes, some e meat
cooks use it for the same
me
quality but for a different
ent
reason: to reinforce the e meaty
fl avor already present. . Los
Angeles’ barbecue master,
ster,
Kevin Bludso — a judge
ge
on the Netfl ix cook-
ing competition show
“American Barbecue
Showdown” — is one
such cook, having used d
le
garlic powder his whole
life. He learned early on
n-
to treat it as its own in-
ng
gredient, not something
h
to use only when fresh
isn’t available.
“Garlic powder — or r
granulated garlic as we call
it — melds with the meat and
ark
smoke to create that bark
akes it
on the brisket that makes
It gets
perfect,” Bludso says. “It
into the seams of the meat
and gives it just a hint t of
garlic that brings out all the
lways
other fl avors. People always
say you can’t taste it, but if
n you
you don’t put it in, then
notice it’s missing! It’s just
like cayenne: If you use it
right, it’s an enhancer, but if
you use too much, it overpow-
ers everything.”
This unique characteristic
of garlic powder — its ability
to add a loaded dose of sweet
funk where the pungent
punch of fresh garlic has
no business being — is also
why it’s often used as the
backbone for concentrated
seasonings in potato chips,
nut mixes and other salty
snack mixes. In fact, my
favorite treat from my child-
hood in the South uses it as
the primary fl avoring. Called
“fi recrackers,” saltines — or
“soup and oyster” crackers
in my home — are doused in
oil fl avored with the umami-
packed allium along with
onion powder, dried ranch
dressing powder and plenty
of crushed red chile fl akes.
After the initial heat of the
chile fl akes subsides, you get
the salty sweetness from the
garlic powder that makes
you reactively grab another
handful.
It’s a common snack in
households across the South
because it uses ingredients
everyone has. And whether
all home cooks will admit it
or not, everyone has garlic
powder. It’s this ubiquity that
led Burlap & Barrel, a New
York-based spice company
known for selling a meticu-
lously curated collection of
single-origin spices, to begin
carrying garlic powder in its
inventory.
“I really wanted it in our
lineup because I use it and
love it and think it really
elevates the fl avor of a dish,
especially savory baked goods
like cornbread,” says Burlap
& Barrel co-founder Ori
Zohar. “And when we looked
at what the cooks were actu-
ally using, we realized that
everyone has garlic powder in
their pantry. But, at the same
time, a big consideration for
inclusion in our spice lineup
is always to pick spices that
are really fl avorful and have
a great story, and garlic
powder is typically neither of
those things.”
But a trip to Vietnam
early last year found Zohar
and business partner Ethan
Frisch tasting a garlic that
SPICE
Continued from Page 2B
Preheat oven to 425 de-
grees.
Whisk chili powder, black
pepper, cinnamon, cumin and
HOME & LIVING
but you
y can use any garlic
powder you have. If you want
powd
a classic
clas Southern-style corn-
bread for other uses, simply
omit the garlic powder here.
These crackers were a
staple at any party my par-
ents threw when I was a kid.
The traditional recipe uses
larger saltine crackers, while
this riff uses smaller soup &
1 cup plus 4 teaspoons
oyster crackers, which are
fi n
ne yellow cornmeal
easier to pick at and eat with
1 cup all-purpose fl our
your fi ngers or shovel into
1 tablespoon
tab
baking powder
your mouth at once. I prefer
1 tea
teaspoon Diamond
Nabisco’s Premium brand, but
Crystal
Cry
kosher salt
any brand will do. Look for
1/4
1/ teaspoon baking soda
them in the cracker and cookie
2 cups buttermilk
aisle of any grocery store.
2 large eggs
Don’t be tempted to use
1/2 cup (1 stick)
olive oil or butter here. You
unsalted butter, plus
want a fl avorless oil to let the
more for serving
seasonings shine through, un-
1/2 teaspoon
adulterated. And melted but-
garlic powder
ter contains some water, which
tends to make the crackers go
1. Place a 9-inch round
soggy or have a stale chew to
cake
c pan or oven-proof
them. The traditional recipe
skillet
sk in the oven and heat uses packets of dry ranch
the oven to 425 degrees.
seasoning mix; in lieu of that
2.
2 Meanwhile, whisk
mix, which contains dairy and
toget
together 1 cup of the cornmeal, MSG, I use nutritional yeast
plus the
t fl our, baking powder,
to keep the mix vegan while
salt a and baking soda in a large also retaining its cheese-like,
bowl
bowl. In another bowl, whisk
umami bite. If you’d like,
toget
together the buttermilk and
however, use two 1-ounce
eggs until smooth. Pour the
packets (or 1/4 cup) dry ranch
liquid ingredients over the dry seasoning mix instead of the
Dania Maxwell /
ingre
ingredients, but do not stir
nutritional yeast.
Los Angeles Times-TNS
them together.
As for the salt, I know it
3. R
Remove the pan from the may look like a lot, but the
Simple fried chicken needs
oven, add the butter, then re-
only salt, pepper and a
original recipes call for double
teaspoons freshly ground
met their standards and was
sprinkling of garlic powder turn the pan to the oven to melt the amount listed here. This is
black pepper, divided
worth preserving for their
the butter, 1 minute. Carefully
to highlight the umami
an intentionally salty snack,
2 1/8 teaspoons garlic
remove the pan from the oven meant to be served with
sweetness of the bird.
customers.
powder, divided
and gently swirl it so the butter cocktails during a party or
“There was a group of
2 cups all-purpose fl our
coats the bottom and halfway
farmers growing purple-
at the beginning of a meal. If
the pan, until golden brown
6 cups vegetable or peanut
up the side of the pan. When
stripe garlic, so we tried it,”
you want, you can halve the
oil, vegetable shortening or all over and an instant-read
the butter is fully melted, pour amounts of all ingredients and
says Zohar. “Theirs was much
rendered pork lard, for frying thermometer inserted into
it into the liquid ingredients in
more fragrant and had a
make less, but I guarantee you
each piece reads at least 160
the bowl and quickly stir every- won’t have a problem eating
more concentrated garlic fl a-
degrees, about 15 minutes. The thing together with a small rub- them all very quickly.
vor than the larger Chinese-
1. If using a whole chicken,
temperature of the oil will drop ber spatula or spoon just until
grown type.”
fi rst cut off the whole legs on
once you add the chicken and the batter combines and there 1 1/3 cups vegetable oil
Indeed, its story starts
each side and separate the
might rise too high over time, are no dry patches of fl our.
1/4 cup nutritional yeast
thighs from the drumsticks.
as being cast as a cheap,
so adjust the heat to maintain
4. Sprinkle the bottom and
1 tablespoon seasoned
convenient way to add fl avor Next, cut out the backbone,
side of the pan with the remain-
salt, such as Lawry’s
then remove the center breast- a temperature between 350
to humble food — a reputa-
and 360 degrees throughout
ing 4 teaspoons cornmeal to
1 tablespoon crushed
tion it suffered from for many bone. Halve the breasts to
lightly coat, then immediately
red chile fl akes
separate. Then, cut each breast cooking.
years — and being deni-
6. Transfer the chicken to the scrape the batter into the pan
2 teaspoons garlic powder
grated for how it compares to crosswise so that one piece
its fresh counterpart. Now it’s has the wing with about a third reserved paper bag (or paper and smooth the top. Place the 1 teaspoon onion powder
towels) to drain and repeat
pan in the oven and bake for 10 1 teaspoon freshly ground
lauded by social media cook- of the breast and the other
cooking the remaining chicken, minutes.
black pepper
piece has most of the breast;
ing stars and has bespoke
allowing the oil to return to
5. Remove the cornbread
10 cups soup and oyster
remove the tips from each
versions sold by discerning
from the oven; the top will
crackers, such as Nabisco’s
spice companies. Prized once wing if you’d like. You will have 375 degrees before frying.
be under-set and still wet on
Premium (1 pound 2
again for its indispensability, 8 pieces total; save the chicken While the cooked chicken is
still wet with hot oil, sprinkle
top. Using your fi ngers (not
ounces), or the same weight
carcass for making stock or
you could say that garlic
it with some of the garlic-salt
a spoon), sprinkle the garlic
of square saltine crackers
discard.
powder has fi nally arrived.
mixture, then let cool for 10
powder evenly over the corn-
2. Set the pieces on a
But then again, it never
minutes before serving.
bread and then return pan to
1. In a large bowl or gallon-
large cutting board and dry
really went anywhere. Like
the
oven.
Continue
baking
the
size
plastic bag, combine the
them thoroughly with paper
that dependable working
VARIATIONS
cornbread until golden brown
oil, nutritional yeast, seasoned
actor — you know their face towels. Season the chicken all
• Buttermilk-Brined Fried at the edges and a toothpick
salt, chile fl akes, garlic powder,
but not their name — whose over with 1 tablespoon salt,
inserted in the center comes
Chicken
onion powder and pepper.
2 teaspoons pepper and 2
career we don’t appreciate
After cutting up the chicken out clean, an additional 12 to 15 Whisk together the ingredi-
teaspoons garlic powder. In
until it outlasts that of the
minutes.
in Step 1, transfer the pieces
ents in the bowl or close the
a large bowl or brown paper
fl ashier movie stars, garlic
6. Remove the pan from the bag and massage until evenly
to a large bowl and mix with
powder was under our noses grocery bag, combine the
oven and let the cornbread
combined.
4 cups buttermilk to coat.
the whole time, waiting for us fl our, 1 tablespoon salt and
cool for 10 minutes. Invert the
2. Add the oyster crackers
the remaining 1 tablespoon
Season the buttermilk and
to realize what a good thing
cornbread and remove it from and toss to ensure that every-
pepper; shake to combine. Add chicken liberally with salt
we’ve always had.
the pan or cut into wedges and thing is evenly coated, then let
two chicken pieces to the bowl and pepper, then cover and
serve from the pan. Serve with stand for at least 30 minutes,
or
bag
and
toss
to
coat
evenly
refrigerate
for
at
least
4
hours
GARLIC FRIED
more butter melted over the
stirring every 10 minutes or
in the fl our. Transfer the coated or up to overnight. Drain the
CHICKEN
so to ensure the crackers have
pieces to a wire rack set over
chicken pieces thoroughly be- top of each wedge or split the
Time: 1 hour 15 minutes
absorbed the seasonings well.
a rimmed baking sheet and
fore dredging in the seasoned wedges in half and sandwich
Yields: Serves 4 to 8
more butter in their middles,
If using a bag, close the bag,
repeat dredging the remaining fl our. For a thicker crust,
letting the butter melt before
lay it on your counter and
chicken pieces.
return the dredged pieces to
Along with salt and pep-
gently fl ip and rub the crackers
3. Let all the pieces sit on
the bowl of buttermilk to coat, serving.
per, garlic powder acts as
in the seasonings every 10
the rack for at least 10 min-
then dredge a second time in
the primary seasoning for
minutes.
utes, then dredge the pieces a the seasoned fl our. Let rest on VARIATIONS
this simple fried chicken,
• Southern-Style Skillet
3. Heat the oven to 250 de-
second time. Discard the fl our the rack for 10 minutes, as in
Cornbread
grees. Spread the crackers on
inspired by the one made by in the bag, fold the bag fl at
Step 3, before frying.
Use a 9- to 10-inch cast iron a large rimmed baking sheet.
the mother of Kevin Bludso, and reserve the bag. In a small
skillet
in place of the cake pan. Bake, stirring the crackers
bowl, combine the remain-
owner of Bludso’s Bar &
GARLIC-CRUSTED
Heat the skillet on a stovetop halfway through, until fragrant
ing 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/8
Que. This recipe uses only a
CORNBREAD
and dry (you do not want to
teaspoon garlic powder and
double coating of fl our as a
over medium-high heat for
Time: 45 minutes
toast or color the crackers),
crust, which lets the fl avor of reserve.
3 minutes, before adding the
Yields: Serves 8
4. Pour the oil or melt the
the chicken and seasonings
butter and swirling the skillet about 16 minutes.
4. Transfer the baking sheet
shine through. If you prefer a shortening or lard in a large,
until the butter fully melts.
Ori Zohar, one of the co-
thicker, crunchier coating, try deep cast-iron skillet or heavy-
Pour the butter into the batter, to a wire rack and let cool to
room temperature before
sprinkle the bottom of the
the buttermilk-brined varia- bottomed pot (it should come founders of the spice com-
pany Burlap & Barrel, loves skillet with the 4 teaspoons
serving.
about 3/4 inch up the side).
tion, below.
Attach a deep-fry thermometer using its garlic powder as an cornmeal, then add the batter.
1 whole chicken (4 to
to the side of the pan and heat enhancer on the top of his
Bake in the oven according to MAKE AHEAD
5 pounds), or 3 to
Store the crackers in air-
the fat to 375 degrees over
cornbread. He adds it toward the instructions above, omit-
4 pounds chicken
tight containers at room tem-
medium-high heat.
the end of cooking so the pow- ting the garlic powder.
drumsticks and thighs
perature for up to 1 month.
5. Add half the chicken
der blooms in the heat and
2 tablespoons plus 1/2
pieces to the fat and fry, fl ip-
forms a fl avorful crust on top. FIRECRACKERS
teaspoon Diamond Crystal
ping the pieces over every 2
Burlap & Barrel’s uniquely
kosher salt, divided
to 3 minutes to prevent them
aromatic purple-stripe garlic Time: 1 hour
Yields: Makes 10 cups
1 tablespoon plus 2
burning where they touch
powder is wonderful here,
salt together in a small bowl.
Using your fi ngers, rub spice
mixture onto all sides of pork
tenderloin. Place tenderloin in
a shallow roasting pan or jelly
roll pan.
Roast tenderloin in the
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preheated oven until no longer
pink in the center, about 30
minutes. (An instant-read
thermometer inserted into
the center should read 150
degrees.)
Stir pepper jelly and bal-
samic vinegar together in a
small saucepan and cook over
low heat until jelly is com-
pletely melted, 1 to 2 minutes.
Brush pepper jelly mixture over
pork tenderloin and continue
to bake tenderloin until jelly
coating is hot, about 5 minutes
more.
Let pork rest for 5 minutes
before slicing. Serve with
roasted potatoes and a green
salad.
Serves 4.
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