The Oregon mist., June 09, 1911, Image 2

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FASHIONS
, OF THE
MOMENT.
Ot'SSELINE DE SOIE la
the newest material for
the slips Intended to wear
under the lovely lingerie
frocks, and the most
beautiful colors are
chosen, such as cerise.
pale blue, and a darker, duller shade
which is most effective, apple green,
wistaria, emerald green, and so on one
might continue almost indefinitely,
naming new shades In the standard
colors.
- To add to the beauty given the cos
tame by these colored slips the finish
ing touch is given by having the girdle
and collar of the same color as the
lip. Other slip materials are the soft
est China and tnesaaline silks, and
the last named silk can be bought in
the most charming changeable effects.
The prettiest among the combinations
are green and gold, cerise and gold,
blue and green, cerise and green, and
red and gold. These changeable silks
are often used for removable flounces
on a plain upper portion, writes Anna
R. Morehouse in the Chicago Tribune.
In working on delicate fabrics a
'whl'e wash dress is by all odds the
safest to wear. If this is not possible
have whatever you do wear spotlessly
clean. Another precaution is the lay
ing on the flcor under where the ma
chine is to stand and you are to sit a
large sized sheet. The machine shou!d
have been oiled and cleaned a coup'e
of days before and run enough to be
sure that the oil has worked in well.
White Oilcloth on Table.
! White ol'.clotb is satisfactory to lay
over the table where the cutting Is to
be done, and these precautions will
amply repay one when the finished
K&rment Is fresh and clean looking. It
must be discouraging to have to send
clothes to a cleaner's before they are
ever worn, and this Is no uncommon
thing to have happen.
Buy a good quality of the mousse
line, and double width. It Is so light
In weight that It will easily slip and
xet away from one In cutting. Two
pieces of a pattern can be cut at once
by keeping the moussellne folded
down the middle Just as it comes. Let
the whole piece rest on the table,
however, to avoid ny pulling, and
go slowly enough in the pinning to see
that the moussellne lies smoothly" un
der the pieces of the pattern.
While there is no waist line in the
high waisted slips, the seams are
lightly curved, and it is of the great
est Importance that the seams be put
together exactly as they are Intended
to go. Baste them together on the
right side, as the seams should be
made in Trench seams, and try on.
The waist line, which Is marked on
each of the seams In putting the gar
ment together, but In fitting be sure
that the waist line of your own figure
Is not clearly defined.
Necessary Precautions,
' If the machine Is to be tried, by all
means use a trial piece of the mous
sellne having the same number of
thicknesses as there will be In the
real stitching. If It does not work
well, try cutting narrow strips of wrap
pins; paper and laying under the ma
. tei-laL After stitching Is done the pa
per can be easily pulled away.
The depth of the flounce has to be
determined, and as that will be
straight across both top and bottom
the different length measures will
have to be allowed for on the body of
the slip. The slip should first be fin
ished around the armholes) and neck,
as well as down the back, and then
tamed right side oat, pinned together
i fly fi ip i
r-- li Wl 1 1
at the armholes and corresponding
seams, so that it comes exactly to
gether at the top, then pinned togeth
er at the seams near the bottom. If
the basting Indicating the waist line
has been left in as it should have
been the lengths are measured from
this point, of course deducting the
length of the finished ruffle.
The ruffle Is basted to the slip in a
seam on the right side and tried on
before any cutting is done. A side
plaited or sccordlan plaiting will be
pretty for the flounce, and It must
have a flat finish at the top. A strip
of China silk, matching the moussellne
in co'or will be good to use In the
hems down the back, making quite a
difference In the durability of the
hems.
A blue silk muslin or batiste is
beautiful when made over a slip of
cerise or the right shade of green;
pink over green is another good com
bination, while a buff shade worn over
one of wistaria would be bewitchlngly
pretty on a brunette.
The sheet lingerie slips are lovely
with the seams put together with lace
insertion or the finest nainsook bead
ing in the half-inch widths. A wide
beading is set around the bottom of
the slip proper, and to this Is attached
a scant embroidery flounce or a lace
trimmed one. The under or dust ruffle
is left off the slips now to aid In the
slender effects so much desired.
A pretty girdle is made of mescaline
satin, cut on a true bias, and 11 inches
wide. The foundation is five or six
Inches wide and is even in width all
the way around. It fastens invisibly
In the middle front and the manner of
draping Is a simple one. The silk Is
laid in upward plaits to meet the
width of the foundation, and Is fas
tened to the right front edge of the
foundation. It is then larked In place
smo'jth'y around to the opposite edge.
Beautiful Ribbons for Girdles.
Never were there more beautiful
ribbons, and these are used extensive
ly for girdles. One In Dresden effect
Is folded around the waist in soft
folds. In the back there are short,
double bows, and hanging from these
are two ends, which reach nearly to
the bottom of the skirt. On the ends
of these streamers are small rosette
bows, giving a quaint, attractive touch.
A good many of the petticoats which
are seen in the stores have the tops
maae or a sort or jersey cloth which
fits with absolute smoothness over
the hips, but there is no reason why
In making one's own skirts they can
not be made to fit Just as perfectly
and be all made of the messaiine
This Is one of the most approved ma
terials for petticoats at present on ac
count of Its softness.
Seven gores are the best number to
use, unless one has unusually large
hips, in which even nine will be better.
Seven for the medium sized figure and
nine for the larger one should make
darts unnecessary. The skirt must
not be fitted too tight or It will ride
up and not fit well at all. If it la well
fitted there should be a slight ease to
prevent the silk breaking easily.
The top of the petticoat Is finished
with a bias facing. Instead of a band,
and this Is stitched on with the seam
coming on the wrong side, and before
turning the facing down press the
seam open with the nail and notice
how much flatter a turning can be
made at the seam than simply by turn
ing over In the ordinary way. Clip
the seam over the hips so It will not
packer when tamed down.
m ft
m tm
SB BBS?
F ALL the Normandy towns
cone is more charming than
Coutanccs, writes Edna Hal
loran in the Los Angels Times,
After several hours of jolting
through a beautiful country,
ridiculous little box of a train depos
Ited us at the gate of Coutances on a
gray morning in June.
The old ramparts which bound the
town on three sides, give It, In per
spectlve, the appearance of clinging
to the hillside. The double row of
giant trees edging the boulevard, rear
their massive boughs above the house
tops; the lofty spires of the cathedral
dominate the landscape. Steep, nar
row streets thread the ancient quar
ters. Old houses, blackened with age,
crowd together on the edge of the
sidewalks, their flat chimneys and
pointed roofs making a sharp, irregu
lar skyline. In almost every square,
smoky window a pot of flowering
plants makes a bit of color against the
dullness of the gray walls. The
heavy front doors are sometimes beau
tlfully carved, a remnant of former
prosperity. And at an occasional
window hangs a curtain of fine lace,
It is essentially a town where the
band of Progress has been stayed.
Nothing changes, nothing advances.
nothing needs to. It la perfect as It
Is, and absolutely contented. On a
sunny morning old women. In their
Immaculate fluted caps, full skirts and
wooden sabots, sit on the doorsteps
and knit Incessantly, rat sleepy cats
bask In the pleasant warmth; boys
from the boulangerle, In their coarse
blue aprons, balance wicker baskets
filled with lung loaves of bread; maids
sent out to market stop to gossip on
the Place; children clotter over the
cobblestones In their wooden shoes
serviette, bulging with school books.
under their arms.
In summer. In Normandy, the twi
light lasts all night. It never grows
dark from sunset to sunrise. Soon
after dinner In the evening, the sound
of voices and snatches of song came
up from the shadows in the valley
through which the river flows. The
women of the neighborhood were
washing In the lavolr, beating their
clothes on the wet stones at the
water's edge. Although knotted and
gnarled by hard work, yet these peas
ant women are good-humored and po
lite. One was a particularly friendly
soul, and told me that In Normandy
one did not speak French, only a
patois, for, ma fol, one had not the
time to learn pure French; life was
too short, and labor was too heavy.
The women Indeed do men's work,
herding cattle, plowing fields, mowing
hay, carrying Immense bundles, poised
on the shoulder, with no apparent ef
fort In the shops, ruddy-faced old women
beam at you from under their clean
starched caps, and smilingly make you
buy, charging you two prices because
you are a foreigner. With all the
grarfousness Imaginable, everything
In stock is set out for your inspec
tion sabots, pictures, postcards,
trinket, lace and a running fire of
conversation kept up In the mean
time. Madam has both time and cu
riosity for the strangers. (
The cathedral Is the one thing of
Coutances. It has long been consid
ered among the most beautiful exam
ples of Ootblc architecture In Franca.
It Is Indeed magnificent, lofty and
pure In Its beauty. The slim coupled
columns meet In Gothic arches, the
lantern Is formed from the beautiful
0
central tower, the rose window In the
nave are of old stained glass, , the
carving of the trlforium Is exquisite,
the altars are works of a master band.
The long pointed windows In the body
of the church, throw mellow, many
colored Hunts across the stone floor,
lighting here and there the deep
shadows of the aisles.
The greater part of the cathedral
was built during the thirteenth cen
tury and Is cited by Iluskln In his
"Lectures on Architecture" as being
"one of the earliest, if not the very
earliest, examples of the fully devel
oped spire, showing the complete do
mestlclty of the work, the evident
treatment of the church spire merely
as a magnified house roof."
The view from the top of the west
ern tower Is deservedly renowned.
Below, in the foreground, are the
sloping fields; the green of the or
chards on the hillsides; an old mill
and Its quiet stream; farther away,
the ruins of the Koman aqueduct; In
the distance, through the haze, rise
the Isle of Jersey and the roofs of
St Malo.
In the medieval town of I1 the fif
teenth century bouses are rather fa
mous for their oddity. Situated on
the Rue St. Jacques, their upper sto
ries project far over the lower, and
are supported by stone pillars, the
thatched roofs slope low over the
street, the rooms are mere holes,
blackened by squalor and constant
use. However, that den s not at all
prevent their being orrupled at the
present time, and the dally routine of
life continues quite as well within
their walls as between those of fresh
er and newer houses. I)1 has also
famous cathedral and one hotel.
And the holed has a reputation of Its
own. All the guide books state that.
the best chocolate served In France
Is to be had here.
The cathedral stands apart some
what isolated at the edge of the
town. Its most striking feature Is the
fifteenth century portal on the south
side, with the lieautlful porch of Saint
Maglolre. It Is most unique In Its
effect. Its massive arches are exquis
itely carved, with designs In delicate
tracery over the doorway and about
the windows. Otherwise the exterior
Is extremely simple, even plain, and Is
not enhanced by one of the towers be
ing unfinished.
The somber gloom of tho Interior
was lightened by dozens of candles
burning on the high altar. It was a
fete day, In whose honor tho chapels
were decorated with gaudy artificial
flowers. The original stained glass
of the thirteenth century Is still In
tact In a largo window In the choir;
In one of the transepts Is the tomb of
Iltshop James, who died In 1503: un
fortunately Its sculpturing Is mutilated
and marred and Its statue by Jean
Juste, is lost.
One of the most beautiful Inner
chapels Is built In honor of St. Sam
son, an English monk to whom the ca
thedral is dedicated, and who Is said
to have crossed the channel and
founded a monastery on the site of
Dol.
Such Is Life.
'Here Is the story In the fnnrnln
paper about a man who Is the k ...
of one of the most vicious elephants
In captivity."
"Well, what about him?"
"Oh. nothing unusual, ti.
that be Is being mistreated by bis 0
pound wife."
BLl'SBEST KlfCHCN H'JZ
Artistic Effects I" Culinary Dt
psrtmsnt Are by No Msans to
Ba Dipld.
It may sound foolish to talk of
"color scheme" for the kitchen, but
If pots and pans and utensils of all
kinds match and the walls are In ths
sumo shade with linoleum of the same
on the floor, you will be atoulshrd
to And how clean and dulnty it all
looks and how much easier It Is to
roncort dainties for the home menu
In the pleasant room.
Illue Is always a good color for ths
kitchen especially, as It is essy
secure the blue enameled cooking
utensils, which are not only easy to
keep clean, but eliminate to a great
extent all likelihood of burning.
Illue and white china or the quaint
solid brown and white ware are pret
ty In a blue aud white kitchen, while
blue and white dish toweU may be
t,.,..ht in.t mm anally as red and white
oues and will look far daintier is the
kitchen.
!?.,.. hn must come be
fore an artistic effect and rare must
be exercised In the selection or me
pots and pans. If you have a small
family don't buy big smwpans ami
enormous skillets.
If you have a big family get big
utensils and don't buy a lot of mod
ern Inventions that you never use.
and which clutter up drawers and
closets unnecessarily.
Have hooks screwed Into the wall
near the table aud the range to him I
spoons, pans and covers on, that they
may be within reach and save many
steps.
MACHINE HAS MANY USES
Ingenious Device Intended for Wssh
Ing Clothes, Rsnovatlng Fsathsrs,
Canning, Etc.
Two Texas men have Invented a
machine which can be put to a variety
of uses, anion which are washing
clothes, renovating feathers, canning
fruit and vegetables, etc. A cylinder,
made of longitudinal slats, revolves
on a stationary lower section, whlrh
is raised from the floor by legs, lie
neath the cylinder Is a metal hsif-
cyllmler. adapted to hold water. Be
neath this, In turn. Is a lire box. with
a ple rising from It at one end of th
machine. This firebox Is the dlttln
gulshlng feature of the apparatus, as
It can be filled with coal or wood and
the water In the metal receptacle kept
hot while the cylinder Is being re
volved th ron Kb It and the clothes or
feathers, or whatever may be In ths
Machine Has Own Flrsbos.
cylinder, thoroughly cleaned. For can
nlng, of course, the cylinder remains
stationary after the Jars have been
placed In It, and the lid of the ma
chine can be closed, If d sired.
Watermelon Cake.
White Part. Two cups whit sugar,
two-thirds cup sweet milk, whites of
five egtts, two thirds cup butter, three
cups flour, two'and a half teaspoons
baking powder.
Red Part. Yo'ks of five eirrs, one
third cup butler, one cup bright red
sugar, one third cup sweet milk, two
rups flour, two and a half teaspoons
baking powder, one and a half pounds
seeded raisins well dredged In flour.
Put the red batter In the center of
the pan and pour the white sr.jiin.l the
outside of the red part. A cup of
blanched almonds may be cut In half
and stirred Into the red part with
good effect.
To Blanch 6fcetbradi.
Soak In cold water one hour, rlmno
water once or twice, serve with cold
water, add one teanpoon of salt, one
tablespoon of lemon Juice or vinegiir
two or three cloves, two peppercorns
sprig parsley and one half bay leaf,
simmer gently 20 minutes; drain, cov
er with cold water; dralu sg&ln, re
move fibers and pipes.
Economical Sponut Caks,
Take two eggs and beat light; add
a cup of while sugar, then a half cup
of bolting water, pinch of suit tnrf i.
and a half cups white flour, two tea
spoons baking powder and flavoring
to taste. Hake In quick oven. liske
In layers and put togmher with whip
ped cream.
Old Trays.
When light oak traps have been
badly marked, well wash and rnh iik
warm beer until the stains have dis
appeared. Polish In the usual way.
Color Hint.
When tnsklnv tff nl..a I .
strawberry flavor, stir Into the bat
ter a tablespoonful of beet Juice. The
k sin i.- .... . w
urn m uaiicaie pink.
1 I
MEALTIME!
But
No Appetite
YOU SHOULD TRY
HOSTETTER'S
STOMACH BITTERS
There is no question
but that the Bitters
will quickly restore the
appetite, aid digestion
and prevent Liver
Troubles, Malaria, fe
ver and Ague.
Start today.
A Fuller Insight
A young maa wae had just Harriet
suggested to bis wife that they shouM
argue some question fully and fraailr
every morning, This, he thought,
would belp ths in to gain a fulUr o
sight Into earb other's nature, tins
making for Increased happiness. TU
first question happened to be. "Cat i
woman dress on $75 a ysarf" lu
took the affirmative, and ha tut
seen he had climbed Into a bay loft
and was pulll.ig the ladder up slur
him.
DOCTORS
FAILED TO
HELP HER
Cured by Lydia 11 Pinkbam'i
Vegetable Compound
round. Yl "l am triad o
noiuu-n that I have been cured of on I
pcpnla ami fenusl
troubles by ye it I
medicine. I (u4
been troubled wiul
both for fourtm
years and consults!
different doctor
but Tilled to Ret 1M
relief. After WiM
I.ydla K. llukhaa'i
Vegetable Con,
txiuiid and If loot
ruriiltir I ran aril
am a well woman!
1 can't And words toc-mrr-samr tUaabl
for the good your medicine has dowl
me. You may publish this if jrouwlo."j
iin. 11 kma.n hlKTit, round, ills
The success of I.ydla K. Ilnkhuiii
Vcttetnble t'omoouud. ni.ide from root)
ana bertis, 1 1 unparalleled, it out i
used with perfect rotilldenee by wom
who suffer from displacements, IntUs-l
nmtinti. ulceration, nuroia t union, ir-i
regularities, t rlodlo twin, hackacltt
bearing-down feelltiff. flatulency. Indi-I
gnsttou, dlz&iuess, or nervous proiwl
lion.
For thirty yenrs I.ydla K. nnkhm'i
Vegctablu Compound lias U-en tit
standard remedy for female ills, in!
suffering women owe It to theuisrlw
to at least give this medicine atnul
I'roof Is ubundHtit that It has cmV.I
thousands of others, aud why thou!
li not euro yon?
If you want spoclnl ndvloc vrrll'I
IMm. I'iiikliiiin, Lynn. Iu-... forUl
J tlit fret) ml tUwuys lu'lptuU
It Rolled Off.
A young man called on a dectn'
comnlutnllK of nnin. In his stonisrt
The doctor diagnosed the case as dy
pepsta, and advlsxd the pstient tor
noip and try a plrkle. If be w
keep that on his stomach be
report to the doctor In the mnrnlM
The next day the patient return
and when the doctor aaked bltn If
rould keep the pickle on his stom
hfl mulled: "I could ss kmc tf :
stayed awake, but when I Ml
It rolled off."
Me is.
An editor Is a small body of ll
tnnnKy entirely surrounded with lro
tie
A Hair
Dressing
If you wish a hleh-class hair
J a
uressinf, we re sure
I lair Viifor. new Imnroved for
mula. Will Prearlv nlcflsfl VOU
It keeps the hair soft nd
smooth, makes It look rich w
luxuriant, prevents splittinf'
the ends. And It keeps tb
scalp free from dandruff.
rml fimw iht mint t( ihe MM
A
a Si.. l r
iters tt vrjasl
At ths tims tlms the new Aye'1 "II
Vigor Is strong hsir tonic, pw"
mo growtn or ths nsir, geeping -v.,
tissues of the hair and scalp in"""
condition. The hsir stops flllo.
drulf disappears. A splendid drstfW
Use tae t, o, ant o. fcswsU,
Xi If
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