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About Oregon daily emerald. (Eugene, Or.) 1920-2012 | View Entire Issue (May 1, 2000)
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Nike stands its ground on WRC; adidas, Reebok seemingly tolerant ■ While other apparel companies may not be as outspokenly critical toward the WRC, critiques say, in general, meeting labor standards is an industry-wide problem By Jack Clifford Oregon Daily Emerald The contentious war of words between apparel companies that have licensing agreements with universities and the various schools’ opposition groups to such arrangements has recently escalated across the country. Nike has attracted some of the harshest criticism directed at its alleged unfair labor practices. Other apparel companies, such as adidas and Reebok, have been background players to this point, but the issue of partnerships be tween universities and the Worker Rights Consortium is being close ly watched and debated. On Thursday, Nike ended nego tiations with the University of Michigan — another school in partnership with the WRC. Nike’s move was perhaps too drastic, adidas public relations manager Travis Gonzolez said. The sport-apparel.company has a contract with Notre Dame, anoth er big-name school considering WRC membership. “I think we’ll take everything case by case,” Gonzolez said, adding that adidas wouldn’t feel a need to pull support from Notre Dame if it joined. “That response is a little strong,” he said. Although the spotlight has been on Nike’s labor issues and its re cent licensing actions, a spokesman for the United Stu dents Against Sweatshops, a Washington, D.C.-based organiza tion, said apparel companies in general are not meeting acceptable labor standards. “There might be some minimal differences between the compa nies, but this is an industry-wide problem,” said Eric Brakken, a USAS organizer. “It’s the way that these companies are using the global economy to increase their power over foreign workers.” As the industry’s perceived leader, Nike is just the most visi ble target, but labor-monitoring or ganizations such as the WRC are needed, he said, to keep watch over the entire lot. One main complaint Knight made when announcing his deci sion to end his financial relation ship with the University is the WRC’s refusal to allow corporate representation on its board, a point discussed in Friday’s meet ing in Chicago between university administrators and the WRC. Gonzolez, a University gradu ate, said adidas would like to be informed of the group’s actions and decisions, but he said conver sations should end there. “It wouldn’t be our right to go in and say we want to be on [the WRC’s] board,” he said. Another constant sticking point between apparel companies and their critics has been the disclo sure of overseas factory locations. A sample search of the Nike’s and Reebok’s Web sites turned up a list of 22 factory locations for the for mer and 10 locations for the latter; other apparel companies, such as Jansport and Russell Athletic, also post locations for its overseas manufacturing facilities. “We applaud anyone’s efforts to improve factories and the working conditions at those factories. That’s why we publish our loca tions,” said Denise Kaigler, senior director of communications at Reebok. She refused, however, to address Brakken’s specific com ments about how all apparel com panies contribute to the “indus try-wide problem. ” Reebok came under fire in 1996 when it added a clause to its con tract with the University of Wis consin that stated university fac ulty and staff members were not to issue any statements that dispar aged Reebok or anything associat ed with the company. The clause was eventually deleted, but Julia Fox, a Universi ty sociology instructor, said the in stance is just one of the expecta tions apparel companies have when entering licensing contracts with schools. “All of this is an indication of [apparel companies’] wanting to control the purse strings — they want to make sure their invest ments are safe investments,” she said. Fox also said she believes that companies are only setting easily attainable benchmarks in relation to worker rights issues. “Certainly the rules of the game in the global market are changing such that these large companies can set the standards in such a low way. Of course they’re within the standards of those foreign coun tries.” Using compensation as one ex ample, Gonzolez said adidas looks at each specific country’s standard. “We expect people to be paid in a foreign economy to be on the same scale [as the United States],” he said. “Taking such a broad stroke doesn’t work, however.” The debate at the University re garding Knight and Nike’s recent actions doesn’t seem to be losing its intensity, with local and state newspapers devoting entire pages to community feedback. Brakken and Fox said student groups and grassroots organiza tions need to maintain a strong voice. Gonzolez said his perception is that no matter how far apparel companies move forward in im proving labor standards, certain groups will always be dissatisfied. “You can’t satisfy everyone, [so] you have to satisfy the majority,” he said. “Our basic standard codes of conduct are what any reason able person would consider right or wrong, and we abide by that. ” We didn’t receive the distinction of being the best life insurance sales force in America* by selecting just anyone. We earned it by selecting the best. Then we gave them comprehensive training, the strongest of products, and the freedom to pilot their own course and define their There’s only one thing higher than our standards: The rewards. own clientele. Plus, The Quiet Company is constantly updating our product portfolio, so that our agents will be able to offer their clients the best. 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