Oregon daily emerald. (Eugene, Or.) 1920-2012, May 01, 2000, Page 6, Image 6

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irrtel.
Nike stands its ground on WRC;
adidas, Reebok seemingly tolerant
■ While other apparel companies may not be as outspokenly
critical toward the WRC, critiques say, in general,
meeting labor standards is an industry-wide problem
By Jack Clifford
Oregon Daily Emerald
The contentious war of words
between apparel companies that
have licensing agreements with
universities and the various
schools’ opposition groups to
such arrangements has recently
escalated across the country.
Nike has attracted some of the
harshest criticism directed at its
alleged unfair labor practices.
Other apparel companies, such as
adidas and Reebok, have been
background players to this point,
but the issue of partnerships be
tween universities and the Worker
Rights Consortium is being close
ly watched and debated.
On Thursday, Nike ended nego
tiations with the University of
Michigan — another school in
partnership with the WRC.
Nike’s move was perhaps too
drastic, adidas public relations
manager Travis Gonzolez said.
The sport-apparel.company has a
contract with Notre Dame, anoth
er big-name school considering
WRC membership.
“I think we’ll take everything
case by case,” Gonzolez said,
adding that adidas wouldn’t feel a
need to pull support from Notre
Dame if it joined. “That response
is a little strong,” he said.
Although the spotlight has been
on Nike’s labor issues and its re
cent licensing actions, a
spokesman for the United Stu
dents Against Sweatshops, a
Washington, D.C.-based organiza
tion, said apparel companies in
general are not meeting acceptable
labor standards.
“There might be some minimal
differences between the compa
nies, but this is an industry-wide
problem,” said Eric Brakken, a
USAS organizer. “It’s the way that
these companies are using the
global economy to increase their
power over foreign workers.”
As the industry’s perceived
leader, Nike is just the most visi
ble target, but labor-monitoring or
ganizations such as the WRC are
needed, he said, to keep watch
over the entire lot.
One main complaint Knight
made when announcing his deci
sion to end his financial relation
ship with the University is the
WRC’s refusal to allow corporate
representation on its board, a
point discussed in Friday’s meet
ing in Chicago between university
administrators and the WRC.
Gonzolez, a University gradu
ate, said adidas would like to be
informed of the group’s actions
and decisions, but he said conver
sations should end there.
“It wouldn’t be our right to go in
and say we want to be on [the
WRC’s] board,” he said.
Another constant sticking point
between apparel companies and
their critics has been the disclo
sure of overseas factory locations.
A sample search of the Nike’s and
Reebok’s Web sites turned up a list
of 22 factory locations for the for
mer and 10 locations for the latter;
other apparel companies, such as
Jansport and Russell Athletic, also
post locations for its overseas
manufacturing facilities.
“We applaud anyone’s efforts to
improve factories and the working
conditions at those factories.
That’s why we publish our loca
tions,” said Denise Kaigler, senior
director of communications at
Reebok. She refused, however, to
address Brakken’s specific com
ments about how all apparel com
panies contribute to the “indus
try-wide problem. ”
Reebok came under fire in 1996
when it added a clause to its con
tract with the University of Wis
consin that stated university fac
ulty and staff members were not to
issue any statements that dispar
aged Reebok or anything associat
ed with the company.
The clause was eventually
deleted, but Julia Fox, a Universi
ty sociology instructor, said the in
stance is just one of the expecta
tions apparel companies have
when entering licensing contracts
with schools.
“All of this is an indication of
[apparel companies’] wanting to
control the purse strings — they
want to make sure their invest
ments are safe investments,” she
said.
Fox also said she believes that
companies are only setting easily
attainable benchmarks in relation
to worker rights issues.
“Certainly the rules of the game
in the global market are changing
such that these large companies
can set the standards in such a low
way. Of course they’re within the
standards of those foreign coun
tries.”
Using compensation as one ex
ample, Gonzolez said adidas
looks at each specific country’s
standard.
“We expect people to be paid in
a foreign economy to be on the
same scale [as the United States],”
he said. “Taking such a broad
stroke doesn’t work, however.”
The debate at the University re
garding Knight and Nike’s recent
actions doesn’t seem to be losing
its intensity, with local and state
newspapers devoting entire pages
to community feedback.
Brakken and Fox said student
groups and grassroots organiza
tions need to maintain a strong
voice.
Gonzolez said his perception is
that no matter how far apparel
companies move forward in im
proving labor standards, certain
groups will always be dissatisfied.
“You can’t satisfy everyone, [so]
you have to satisfy the majority,”
he said. “Our basic standard codes
of conduct are what any reason
able person would consider right
or wrong, and we abide by that. ”
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