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About Oregon daily emerald. (Eugene, Or.) 1920-2012 | View Entire Issue (July 6, 1982)
China Blue Restaurant upstairs next to the U of O Bookstore Serving lunch from 11-4 • M-F 897 E. 13th Ave. 343-2832 TINO'S • Full dinner menu • 23 varieties of Pizzas • Whole wheat and white crust • Pizzas to go -cooked and uncooked 15th and Willamette New Hours: Mon.-Thurs. 11:00-Midnight Frl. 11:00-1:00 am Sot 5:00-1:00 a m Sun. 5:00-11:00 p.m. A v TINOS SPAGHETTI — TODAY IS THE LAST DAY TO REFUND TEXTBOOKS JULY 6,1982 Book refunds on 8 & 11 week courses only - does not apply to short courses and workshops. Thank you. 13th & Kincaid Mon.-Fri. 8:15-5:30 Closed Saturday Textbooks 686-3520 For 60 years, Maurizio Paparo's family made Ice cream in Florence, Italy — he brought their 'art' to Eugene Ice cream is an art for Maurizio Paparo, man ager of the recently opened Italian ice cream parlor Marco’s on 25th and Hilyard Paparo was making ice cream fulltime for his par ent's parlor in Florence, Italy, by the time he was 16 Now 21, he came to the United States and Eugene this past December to help an old friend, Frank Hernandez, the owner of Mazzi's, set up Marco’s, which opened March 28 Paparo has made every ef fort to see that his ice cream is made from scratch the Italian way Whenever a recipe calls for it, fresh fruits are used Other flavors and ingredients are imported from Genoa His mixing and freezing machin ery comes from Milan. His cabinets for storing and serving ice cream are Amer ican — until replacements arrive from Italy “Italian cabinets circulate cold air and keep ice cream much fresher,” Paparo ex plains while casting a dis dainful eye at the American machines. Paparo says he's visited New York’s Little Italy and hasn't found ice cream as authentic as his. In New York, they don't make their own basic mix before adding flavoring, Paparo contends They buy that mix from a wholesaler As for homegrown all American ice cream, Paparo dismisses the majority of our brands "Most American ice creams taste the same ” he says ‘Cheap ” They may sell for 50 cents a scoop — his sells for 85 — but they con tain “a lot of fat and a lot of air.’ he says. "It’s not really ice cream, but cold air," he says of one particular brand Then he quickly points out that there is absolutely no air in his ice cream Paparo becomes agitated when he talks ice cream His English is amazingly fluent for someone who only knew a few words when he stepped off the plane in December, but the words just don’t seem to come fast en ough to match the flow of his thoughts about his art It seems funny at first to use such a pretentious word as "art" in connection with Flavors The week of July 4 Strawberry, Orange, Lemon, Cantaloupe, Pineapple. Banana, Raspberry, Watermelon, Pistachio, Vanilla, Martin ica (chocolate rum), Nougat ( almond, walnut, honey), Amaretto, Croc cantino (almond, walnut, rum), Walnut, Coffee, Chocolate Hazelnut and Chocolate By William Kogut Photos by Mark Pynes ice cream. And Paparo, youthful and sporting the trim body of a semi-profes sional soccer player, doesn't fit the stereotype of the wise old artist But he is born of the tradition of the European craftsperson. His family has been in the ice cream business in Flor ence for 60 years Sherbert has been soid in Florence for hundreds of years — per haps ever since Catherine Dei Medici invented Italian ices five hundred years ago "Here, ice cream is not that important,” Paparo ob serves "But in Italy, there is a different conception." Ice cream makers convene each year for a huge convention — there is a lot of technical interest and attention to de tail, he says This kind of effort is enth usiastically appreciated by consumers in Europe, Paparo says "Ice cream is simple, but it can also be something dif ferent You must stand in line for hours to eat ice cream in Italy,” he says Waiters and waitresses serve tables, there is a great variety of flavors and specialty dishes Recorded popular music — as in Marco's — is played And as in the America of long ago, students and other young people think of the parlors as hang-outs "When my family's place would close at two at night, it would still be crowded even though everything might be sold,” Paparo says, adding that he loved to party with American exchange students from Smith and Stanford Unfortunately, as it turned out for his English, the students were learning Italian and refused to speak English, Paparo jokes. A cross-section of people are making up Marco's clientele — everyone from junior high students from the school across the street to folks who want to speak some Italian to World War veterans with memories of Florence that are refreshed by the taste of real Italian ice cream and the special at mosphere of Marco s. Paparo helped see to it that the parlor, as well as its ice cream, is as close as possible to the real thing
