Oregon daily emerald. (Eugene, Or.) 1920-2012, July 06, 1982, Page 8, Image 8

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    China Blue
Restaurant
upstairs next to
the U of O Bookstore
Serving lunch from
11-4 • M-F
897 E. 13th Ave.
343-2832
TINO'S
• Full dinner menu
• 23 varieties of Pizzas
• Whole wheat and
white crust
• Pizzas to go
-cooked and uncooked
15th and Willamette
New Hours:
Mon.-Thurs. 11:00-Midnight
Frl. 11:00-1:00 am
Sot 5:00-1:00 a m
Sun. 5:00-11:00 p.m.
A
v
TINOS
SPAGHETTI
—
TODAY
IS THE LAST DAY
TO REFUND
TEXTBOOKS
JULY 6,1982
Book refunds on 8 & 11 week courses only - does not apply
to short courses and workshops.
Thank you.
13th & Kincaid
Mon.-Fri. 8:15-5:30
Closed Saturday
Textbooks 686-3520
For 60 years, Maurizio Paparo's family
made Ice cream in Florence, Italy —
he brought their 'art' to Eugene
Ice cream is an art for
Maurizio Paparo, man
ager of the recently
opened Italian ice
cream parlor Marco’s on
25th and Hilyard
Paparo was making ice
cream fulltime for his par
ent's parlor in Florence, Italy,
by the time he was 16 Now
21, he came to the United
States and Eugene this past
December to help an old
friend, Frank Hernandez, the
owner of Mazzi's, set up
Marco’s, which opened
March 28
Paparo has made every ef
fort to see that his ice cream
is made from scratch the
Italian way
Whenever a recipe calls for
it, fresh fruits are used Other
flavors and ingredients are
imported from Genoa His
mixing and freezing machin
ery comes from Milan. His
cabinets for storing and
serving ice cream are Amer
ican — until replacements
arrive from Italy
“Italian cabinets circulate
cold air and keep ice cream
much fresher,” Paparo ex
plains while casting a dis
dainful eye at the American
machines.
Paparo says he's visited
New York’s Little Italy and
hasn't found ice cream as
authentic as his.
In New York, they don't
make their own basic mix
before adding flavoring,
Paparo contends They buy
that mix from a wholesaler
As for homegrown all
American ice cream, Paparo
dismisses the majority of our
brands "Most American ice
creams taste the same ” he
says ‘Cheap ” They may sell
for 50 cents a scoop — his
sells for 85 — but they con
tain “a lot of fat and a lot of
air.’ he says.
"It’s not really ice cream,
but cold air," he says of one
particular brand Then he
quickly points out that there
is absolutely no air in his ice
cream
Paparo becomes agitated
when he talks ice cream His
English is amazingly fluent
for someone who only knew
a few words when he
stepped off the plane in
December, but the words just
don’t seem to come fast en
ough to match the flow of his
thoughts about his art
It seems funny at first to
use such a pretentious word
as "art" in connection with
Flavors
The week of July 4
Strawberry, Orange,
Lemon, Cantaloupe,
Pineapple. Banana,
Raspberry, Watermelon,
Pistachio, Vanilla, Martin
ica (chocolate rum),
Nougat ( almond, walnut,
honey), Amaretto, Croc
cantino (almond, walnut,
rum), Walnut, Coffee,
Chocolate Hazelnut and
Chocolate
By William Kogut
Photos by Mark Pynes
ice cream. And Paparo,
youthful and sporting the
trim body of a semi-profes
sional soccer player, doesn't
fit the stereotype of the wise
old artist But he is born of
the tradition of the European
craftsperson.
His family has been in the
ice cream business in Flor
ence for 60 years Sherbert
has been soid in Florence for
hundreds of years — per
haps ever since Catherine
Dei Medici invented Italian
ices five hundred years ago
"Here, ice cream is not
that important,” Paparo ob
serves "But in Italy, there is
a different conception." Ice
cream makers convene each
year for a huge convention
— there is a lot of technical
interest and attention to de
tail, he says
This kind of effort is enth
usiastically appreciated by
consumers in Europe,
Paparo says
"Ice cream is simple, but it
can also be something dif
ferent You must stand in line
for hours to eat ice cream in
Italy,” he says Waiters and
waitresses serve tables,
there is a great variety of
flavors and specialty dishes
Recorded popular music —
as in Marco's — is played
And as in the America of long
ago, students and other
young people think of the
parlors as hang-outs
"When my family's place
would close at two at night, it
would still be crowded even
though everything might be
sold,” Paparo says, adding
that he loved to party with
American exchange
students from Smith and
Stanford Unfortunately, as it
turned out for his English, the
students were learning
Italian and refused to speak
English, Paparo jokes.
A cross-section of people
are making up Marco's
clientele — everyone from
junior high students from the
school across the street to
folks who want to speak
some Italian to World War
veterans with memories of
Florence that are refreshed
by the taste of real Italian ice
cream and the special at
mosphere of Marco s.
Paparo helped see to it
that the parlor, as well as its
ice cream, is as close as
possible to the real thing