Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Dec. 10, 1905)
455 THE SUXDAX OBJEGONIAX. PORTIiAlTD, DECEMBER 10, ' 1905. EFFECTS SHOW OFF THEjVEW CWFFOVyP CORDUROY VELVETS CfoJXH EMPIRE II If -m. - thk THE velvet -costume is unquestionably j the distinctive- one of the season: J Having been tried for several Win-.! ters and found wanting as a practical j garment, it steps into the front ranks in j these gay holiday weeks as the most ele gant of nil feminine apparel, and this Is true whether It appears as an all-enveloping coal, a calling suit or an elaborate house gown. Many women who are sufficiently warm in their Fall suits up to middle Decembor are now hunting for a separate cloak to last them through the coming ten weeks of biting weather, and. without exception, it is the velvet coat which they arc choosing. Particularly in empire effects does this material show to good advantage. A (harming illustration is an outer wrap in black chiffon velvet, with unusually d'eop empire yoke, outlined by black silk Her cules braid. Three plaits at the top of th11 sleeve give a broad look across. the xnoulders, and the elbow puff of velvet terminates Jn a mousquotalre cuff, braid ed in bow-knot design Larger bow-knot scrolls of silk braid trim the corners of the coat skirt, which falls in rippling bd' thape almost to the hem of the gown beneath, and Is slit in panels at side and back to the hip line. For evening wear the loose wrap of elet displays delicate colorings seen in broadcloth, and Js built in modish dolman or cape effects, with handsome trimmings. An opera cloak worn by an FrglJph net resit appfaring at present in this country represents the very tip of f'shlou in the velvet models. Peach-colored chiffon velvet Is employed, with in s ts of black Spanish lace and a rolling cellar of black fur finishes the neck. The cloak falls loosely lrom the shoulders and reaches wel" below the knees In deop ixilnts both frort and back, being draped un at either side to give an oversklrt cf- J' feet- Attached at the front of the shoul ders, the upper cape forms sleeves and drops in cavalier style to a deep point in the middle of the back. The lace is Inset above a six-Inch hem on each cape. Sharing popularity with I&oms effects arc the separate Jackets of velvet to be worn over broadcloth skirts, which are built on severely tailored lines. For a girl with a trim figure the very' smartest of Jacket Is cut like a broker's business coat: tlmt Is, tlght-flttlng from shoulder almost to the kneo-Joint in black and a gradual sloping away of the coat below the waistline In front. An example of thlR is in royal blue. Embroidered in narrow sliver braid, a vest of pale blue cloth ox tonds above and below the coat, which comes together at the waistline and is trin.ned on either edge "with large silvery buttons, four to each side. The sleeve is leg-o'- mutton and a fold of velvet out lines a zouave effect Jusl belowthe bust line. Decidedly less trying to the figure Is a postillion coat belonging-to a mahogany velveteen suit Diamond-shaped Insets of accordion-pleated liberty satin In the same .shade are let in from shoulder to waistline m the Myle of the court Jester costume. Each sleeve shows sdmllar fn se? from shoulder to elbow. Postillion tails of liberty satin haIng velvet edg ings finish a deep girdle of stitched velve teen at the back. Ecru Alencon lace adorns a high standing collar and festoons over a loose vest of accordion-pleated ratin. Soutache braid is employed to out line the catln Insets, as well as the scams of the skirt, to a point where they open Into fan-Ehaped pleatings of velveteen. Stunning as Is the velvet garment for street wear, it Is at Its best as a recep tion or calling costume, and Just now it is that Paris Is tending its midwinter consignment of reception gowns for so cial leaders. A favored glimpse at a young debutante's Christmas frocks re vealed a calling suit of velvet in three pieces. In silvir gray, the material' was the new chiffon corduroy, which lias a silken rather than a cloth background, and is even lighter than regulation chiffon vel vet. A shaped panel at the front of the skirt was made up of strips of lace edged with soutache braid, and similar strips lined inverted plaits at the sides' and bad:. A simple bodice of silvery white lace wait hartlv concealed beneath a short I apron flap, rising above a deep silk girdle. and branching off at elther;sidc into wluc suspender bands that fastened on the -shoulder in narrow points. The accom panying Jackot of gray corduroy was a square oolero. reaching Just below the top of the girdle, and showed a vest of ermine. Lace cans finished the elbow sleeves, which emerged from epaulet shoulders of corduroy, edged with sou tache braid. For -a house frock In old rose, a smart oversklrt model Is built of liberty velve teen. A tunic effect is given to the skirt by deep tucks of velveteen, one around the foot and the other applltfd several inches above, with cordlngs of Velveteen, in gracefully drapsd" lines that slope up on the sides and down In front and back. A fullness in the skirt over the' hips is laid Jn fine plaits concealed beneath wide chenille braid that. shapes a yoke-effect. This separates at the back to .allow a full sweep of the velveteen from the waist to the foot of the trailing Jupc. Shirring of velveteen form the baby waist ami short sleeves, and pompadour lace fills in the neck and elbow puffs. Another oversklrt frock has a tunic of chiffon velvet laid in box plaits. This falls to the foot of the skirt In back, doping up in rounding lines almost to the knees In front. A bodice Is built also of fine bo:i plaits, and has lace chemisette and soft lace collar. Three very wide folds of velvet comprise the top of the Jaunty sleeves, that come half way be tween wrist and elbow. The outside seam is opened to admit a wide edging of lace. Valict bows grace the lac'eon yoke and sleeves. To the woman who admires simplicity in dres, the velvet gown with scant but handsome applications of lace represents the acme of elegance in afternoon cos tumes. The season's most popular frock In this style is the black velvet Princess costume. This is shaped to the waistline by Inverted pleats and hangs with mag nificent fullness about the feet and en traine at the back. The sleeves show a high puff, with inverted pleats to the el bow, caught In a twist and choux of satin ribbon. Six medallions of Trish crochet lace, three In front and threir at the back, give the finishing touch to a deep yoke of fine Irsh lace, the- trying whiteness of which is relioved by a narrow Insertion o. tlnck (Jhantilly lace, caught with rhinc ston brooclies. "While :t falls of the, severely stunning effect of the Princess gown, a reseda col cred velvet frock, with Irish lace ap pliques, is built in very becoming style. Yoke and collar are of shirred dotted :nallne and are met by a bolero of velvet. The latter is edged with shaped bands of Irish lace, while a deep edging of the Rice emphasizes the bustline In front. The short sleeves terminate in puffings oC white maline. A noteworthy wrinkle is the embellishment of the lace with small rosettes of reseda colored velvet, having Jeweled centers. On other velvet gown3 the heavy laces are blended to the ma terial by chenille braid of the same shade as the frock outlining the motifs of the lace. KATHARINE ANDERSON. Some Delicate Dishes for Mid-Day Lunch LUKCH in the middle of the day usu ally means the using up of left-overs rom the previous night's dinner. But in holiday season, when more members of the family are apt to be at home for this midday meal, a warm dish is usually needled to supplement eold meats, etc. Or, If the housewife prefers, a delicate des sert gives a certain zest to an otherwise simple repast. Here are a few tasty dishes which will fit well Into the lunch eon bill of fare: Steamed Fish Put three-quarters of a cup of milk into a small saucepan, with a thick slice- of onion and a little salt, pep per and nutmeg. It them simmer gently for a quarter of an hour. Thicken the in. Ik by adding three rounding tablespoon fuls of flour, which has been carefully mixed with a small quantity of cold milk, and stir In one roundiug tablespoonful of butter Turn the sauce, which will be very thick. Into a strainer and rub with the back of a teaspoon Into a basin. Have ready one pound of raw white fish, which has been freed from skin and bones and passed through a mincing machine. Mix this with the white sauce and add the yolks of two raw eggs (one at a time). beating them thoroughly into the fish i mixture. Next add a little more season ing and lastly the whites of the eggs whisked to a very firm froth. Cover the Inside of a china bowl with a layer of warm butter and fill it with the prepared fish. Tie a buttered paper over the top and steam gently for three-quarters of an hour By this time is should be sufficient ly firm to turn out. Serve with melted autter sauce or good brown gravy. Baked Cod's Head Trim and wash the head and part of the shoulders of one cod. Chop half a pound of veal and add to It one teaspoouful of salt, one. salt spoonful of pepper, one tablespoonful of t hopped parsley and one teaspoonful of finely chopped onion. Stuff the fish with this and put into a baking pan covered with buttered paper. Add half a cup of water to the pan. Bake in a moderate ly hot oven for three-quarters of an hour, basting frequently. "When nearly done, remove the paper, baste with melted but ter and dust with browned breadcrumbs. Serve with brown sauce. Fish Cutlets or Croquettes Make a gravy with one cup of milk, two table spoonfuls of flour and one tablespoon ful of butter. Stir until smooth and add the yolks of two eggs, together with one teaspoonful of finely chopped onion, one salt spoonful of pepper, one level teaspoon ful of satt and a dash of red pepper. Mix this sauce with two cupfuls of cold cooked, fish. Form into flat cutlets or round cro quettes, dip in egg and breadcrumbs and fry in very hbt fat. Eggs. With Vlllcroi Sauce Fry two tabJespoonfuls of butter and two table spoonfuls of flour together for a few minutes without letting the butter bVown. adding by degrees a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt, pepper and a pinch of mace, and finally one cup of milk. When these are well mixed, pour in a cupful of cream or half cream and half milk, and stir until the sauce Is smooth and thick. Lot them simmer for five minutes and remove the pan from the stove. Add the yolks of two eggs and stand aside until nearly cool. Cook some eggs Jn boiling water for five min utes, then drop them into a basin of cold water, and when they are quite cooled remove the shells and roll the eggs In the prepared sauce. When cold and firm, dip into beaten raw egg. cover with fine breadcrumbs. Allow 35 min utes for the breadcrumbs to become en crusted on the eggs and fry them in a wire basket until a pale golden color. Ar range the eggs in the middle of a hot dish and serve with cream sauce in which parsley has been sprinkled. Poached Egss with Spinach Cook half a can of tomatoes with one tablespoon ful of butter, a slice of onion and a slice of raw bncon. When these are heated through, add two lablespoonfuls of Worcestershire sauce and season with pepper, nutmeg and salt. Pass the sauce through a sieve. Butter china cases or cups and fill half full -with cooked spin ach. Make a hole In the center of the spinach and fill with two tcaspoonfuls of tomato sauce. Poach an egg for each cup. In boiling water, to which has been added salt and a teaspoonful of vinegar. As soon as the whites of the eggs are set. lift them carefully from the pan with a flat strainer and. after trimming the white so that it is neat and round, lay an egg over each spinach cup. Sprinkle the top of the egg with tiny squares of toasted bread or cover -with tomato sauce. Grated cheese will also add to the tastlness of this dish if sprinkled over the top. Kidneys In Cases Stamp out six medium-sized rounds from some slices of stale bread an inch in thickness. Make a hollow in the center of each and fry quickly in boiling fat until they are a golden brown. Remove the skin from four kidneys, split tiein in half, and, after removing the cores, cut xhem Into dice-shaped pieces. Put one tablespoon ful of butter into a pan with a slice of bacon, and as soon as the butter is hot add the kidneys and simmer gently for half an hour. Take from the pan. place on the fried pieces of bread, and cover with the following sauce: Into the pan from which the kidneys were removed, stir in half a tablespoonful of flour, and when this has mixed with the butter and gravy, pour In one teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, the same quantity of tomato catsup and season with salt and pepper. Strain over the kidneys. French Hash Wash a calf's heart through several waters and cover with boiling watw. Cook for three hours un til tender. When done, chop very fine and add a pint of liquor in which It was cooked. Place on the fire and stir until it bolls, when It should be seasoned with a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet, .a teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pep per. Cook on the back of the stove for 2) minutes. Toast small squares of bread and heap the hash on these. Thicken the remaining gravy with one tablespoonful of flour and add one tablespoonful of but ter. Pour over the toast and on top of it all lay a poached egg. Luncheon Swccls. Surprise Bananas Peel some bananas and cut into pieces two inches in length. One end of each piece should be cut evenly enough so that it can be made to stand up on a platter, Boll some home-made apple Jelly and drop in the bananas. When the Jelly has cooled a little take out the pieces of banana, sprinkle them with desiccated cocoanut and place them on the dish on which they are to be served. When the -remainder of. the Jelly Is cold It should be placed in chunks around the bananas and a cold boiled custard poured orer the top. Lemon Pudding Put two ounces of but ter In a saucepan, and when melted stir in slowly one tablespoonful of flour and one tablespoonful of cornmcaL When the Ingredients form a thick paste, add quickly one pint of milk and stir until the mixture has boiled and thickened. Remove from the stove and add three rounding tablespoonfuls of sugar, the grated rind of one large -lemon and one teaspoonful of vanilla. Fold in the yolks of two eggs which have been beaten previously and one tablespoonfili of finely chopped candied lemon peeL Add one pinch of salt to "the whites of the eggs and whisk to a stiff froth. When the pudding is cold add the whites of the eggs and the Juice of the lemon. Cover with a thick puff paste, brown in a medium oven and serve with cream. ThingsThat Please a Bachelor Beautiful Envelope Gifts for the Girl Friends IF IN doubt what to give a man friend see whether one of these suggestions does not help you out. A circular plnholder In sliver or gun metal, with the Initials on one side. These can be bought anywhere from SO cents to j a dollar and a half apiece. They take ! up very little room In a man's pocket, J and if he once carries one he will wonder how he ever did without It. A leather bag for holding collars aBd cuffs, with a stiff bottom. These come unllned in a supple quality of tanned skin -or in delicate shades of suede leather, lined with soft silk in a contrasting color. A bag of this sort costs 73 -cents to $2. or a woman can make it herself at small expense. But it should surely be of leather, for the average man has a horror of embroidered or all-silk articles, for his traveling bag or dressing table. A silver fob on a black surah ribbon. A novelty in these little watch orna ments is a thin Quadrangle of silver show ing the coat of arms of -any of the promi nent colleges, done in enamel. Their cost Is a dollar and a half. Another fob at the same price is suspended from a black leather strap, the ornament being the man's monogram simply but effectively wrought In brass. A nickel cigarette-box., with cedar wood Interior and a hunting scene under glas on the cover. Even if a man does not smoke himself he likes to have a box of cigarettes in his room to offer to his friends. These boxes vary in price from XI to $3. and they are a real ornament on a bachelor's table. An oral frame surrounded with rhine stone brilliants. A frame of this sort j can be picked up under $2. and while at J this price It will not be over four inches In height, this Is Just a pretty size to hold the favorite picture of the nicest girl In the world, or of a much-admired beau. ty. A plated silver trump-dlsplayer. This is quite the newest small gift of the Christmas season, and can be bought for J2.S, or less. It Is used to show whether hearts, diamonds, clubs or spades are trumps in bridge whist or other game where the trump is changed at each deal. By pressing a small knob on ton. a cel luloid card marked with the various .card signs turns to denote the trump suit. A genuine seal leather shaving paper case. A thick package of the softest white paper is Inclosed In a square of black or brown leather and suspended by a leather strap. These range In price from tl to 8. according to the quality of the leather, but they are quite the neatest way of keeping paper, and when rolled, up they can be tucked into a very small corner in"a bag or drawer. A necktie clasp of solid gold or silver. In Summer, particularly, these little pinchers are surprisingly serviceable for keeping a long neckscarf from getting out of place. Charmingly embossed de signs of fleur-de-lis. shaggy lion's head or other artistic figure can be found both In silver or washed gold at a price under J2,- and the simpler ones cost only GO cents. A mother of pearl nallcleacer that can be tucked Into the vest pocket They are sold at H apiece. THE simplest way for a girl to remem ber her out-of-town girl friends at Christmas time is with an envelope gift Some small useful token which can be sent through the mail has quite as much significance as a bulky or elaborate present, which requires a large postage or express fee 19 bring It to its destina tion. And there are no end of pretty gifts which can be made to fit easily into an envelope of ordinary size. Of these, none would be received with more welcome by the average girl than a chiffon or llberty-slik scarf. The season's offerings in these filmy affairs show won drously beautiful colorings and stamped designs. Not a few In simple but effective patterns can be purchased as low as J1J5, though the finer ones sell at C5 and SCO. and many display borders of marabout or wide hems of flowered crepe de chine. One deft-fingered - girl Is turning out a fascinating scarf from net for an envel ope gift. She is tiding a silky quality of white net and scattering over its surface small silver spangles. These tiny pail lettes she is putting on rather sparsely by hand, while the raw edges of the net are being caught and bound In broad lib erty satin ribbon. When finished the scarf will measure two and a. half yards in length, and almost a yard in width, but its suppleness will admit of its being folded Into a foolscap envelope. Then there are many lovely stocks which are soft enough to go In an envelope with out destroying their freshness, and the gfrl is hard to find who does not ap preciate a bit of new neckwear among her Christmas presents. Among the modish long stocks a lace cravat, which Is made easily, shows a single neckband of finely tucked muslin, with narrow Insertion of Valenciennes lace running through the middle. Valenciennes edging finishes the upper and lower edges and the tiniest of muslin-covered buttons line the middle of the front and fasten the stock at the back with thread loops. The long tab which drops at the front is composed of three lengths of muslin with lace inser tion, each length. surrounded with Valen ciennes edging, except- at the top, where it Is attached to the tab above, the top tab being Joined to the neckband beneath the lace edging. Another soft stock Is built of Hamburg medallions two Inches In width, having an opening at the center. A line of these forms the collarband, and a succession of ten. one below .the other, constitutes a long tab at the front. Through the open ings In the medallions Is inserted sky- blue velvet or satin ribbon that ends in a short loop. Narrow Valenciennes lace Is applied scantily around the neckband and tab. Still a third suggestion is to buy an In expensive Hamburg or lace stock and outline the pattern with gatherings of delicately tinted baby ribbqn. Care should be taken that the ribbon Is not put on with too generous a hand, the largest motifs alone showing the colored outline. When a girl has not the time to make one of these dainty stocks, she cannot go amiss in sending a fancy colored handker chief as the envelope gift. 9o artistic are the borders on the finer grade of colored mouchoirs that a single handkerchief sell ing at to cents or $1 makes a novel and acceptable present. It should be selected, however, with a view to its delicate pas tel shade of blue or pink or lavender., and be a small, rather than the old-fashioned large square of muslin, with narrow col ored hem.. Should the girl friend for whom the en velope gift is Intended be fond of fancy work, tuck Into a foolscap eavelope a piece of linen stamped to be worked in eyelet embroidery or in satin stitch. These come shaped for lingerie hats or belts, both of which promise to be even more popular next Summer than they were In the Summer just passed. Prunella Preaches on Gift Giving Lest She Forget. Hubby Now. remember, while you .are at the seaside you mustn't flirt. Pet Of course not. you old goose. See. I have tied a knet in my handkerchief so I woa't forget I'm awrrtetL Le Hire; HOW to make a little go a long; way Is the problem that confronts the majority of women these last few weeks before Christmas. This Is one time in the year when It would seem as though every friend should be re membered, but somehow, as the day draws nearer, the funds laid aside for the purpose have a way of growing: alarmingly small, while the desirable gifts in the shops are marked at a figure that looks amazingly large. It becomes almost a question of giv ing one friend something that Is worth while, and allowing the other fifteen or twenty on your Christmas list to go unremembercd. But which friend Is to be the favorol one remains still a problem. This neighbor friend has been unusually thoughtful for your pleasure through the entire year, and there Is nothing you -would like better than to give her a csrt.iin piece of cut-glass or silver, which you know she has been coveting so lonp No sooner de you decide that this Is quite the nicest way you could spend your Christmas allowance, than a pic ture of your scnool girl chum, whom you have not seen In five years, re calls a long-cherished desire to sead her a feather neckpiece; and you saw one only yesterday for Just the price you have In hand. Then there Is a sixty-first cousin, with a good, fat Income, and you her favorite relative. She has lavished gifts on you until it Is no longer pos sible fo you to accept them without giv ing something in return. A trifling re membrance would be simply out of the question. There is positively no way out of It. She will have to be the one who receives the Christmas present. A similar feellnp of obligation or pe culiar friendship is met with through the entire list, until you realize If one Is remembered, they all must be. And the study begins hew to find a suitable gift for each friend, the sum total of which corresponds to the amount that would buy ono really nice present. Money has wonderfully clastic powers, however, when mixed up with careful thought, and it is not the splendid re membrance that means most to the re cipient. A small knowledge of a person's In dividual tastes goes a long way In find ing Just the present he dr she will most appreciate. After whfch. It Is a matter of searching through the be-r withering array of Christmas stuff ia an endless maze of shops for the small article which just fills the bill, and which Is surely there If time is taken to hunt for it. Should the piece of cut-glass be an impossibility for the neighbor friend, find the salad bowl or nut dish which she wanted specially. In pressed glass, but take pains that the pattern closely resembles that of the genuine article. If a feather neckpiece shows a tag mark quite out of your reach, and you kiow that your friend has a falling for pretty neckwear, search for the very newest effect In stocks or dainty scarfs and send her one of these which you can afford. In case the slxty-Srst cousin is for gotten until the allowance is nearly spent, take a few hours off and make her some handy little toilet help which you know she lacks. Because you made It, it will be prized far and away above that handsome piece of jewelry which would have excluded all your other friends from the assurance of your thougbtfulness for them. And finally, if any other remem brance Is impossible. Christmas cards selccteel with care never fail to brms with them a message of Joy and friead-shJa. 1