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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Dec. 3, 1905)
I THE WARDROBE OF THE ELDERLY WOMAN ",SSSX5H EVER were styles more kindly to elderly wearers, than now. The clinging softness o the new ma terial, the silt and silver splendor, colors and cuts, all point the way to be coming and4 dignified framing. For there lies the gist of the elderly woman's' got up. It must be dignified above all things; and this moaning suitability to years, be comingness Is implied. Beginning with fundamentals, the wom an of 40 and more requires handsomer materials than younger wearers. Make shifts, in point of quality, should always he avoided, for It Is far better to wear a gown that Is slightly passe but of good materials than a new gown in cheap stuffs. To fall Into poetic hyperbole, "the wom an of advancing years," says a French writer, "should enshrine her personality as if upon an altar. Her gown, her bon net, her mantle, all should express a rich yet delicate splendor, which Is like a crown. The very fall of her train should be a command." The soft and satiny cloths now tho mode are the royal right of those no longer In the hoyday of youth. A ltand some dress of cloth, or silk or velvet, is indispensable for the woman of middle age. and the present styles suggest many Tasty Meat AT this time of the year, when tur- ' keys and large Joints of meat arc J fo frequently necessary on the home j bill of fare, the house-wife wolcomcs pome new way in which to serve up the fragments that remain. From a num ber of economical cooks have been gathered the following tasty recipe, by which remnants of turkey, chicken or lamb can be offered In appetizing form: Turkey In cups. Butter half a dozen teacups, sprinkle with bread crumbs, and fill them half way to the top with turkey meat chopped finely. Whip two OKgs gently and season with one sult ppoonful of salt, a pinch of popper, a few drops of onion Juice and a little finely chopped parsley. - Now add one cupful of milk, and after mixing well, pour Into the cups holding tho turkey. Bet the cups in a pan of hot water, cover them over tightly and steam. As soon as the milk and eggs have bo- como slightly stiff, turn the turkey i molds onto slices of toast and serve ac companied by boiled rice. Turkey Soup. After every bit of meat has been lemoved from the bonos. break the latter and boll together with a quait of water, a few peppercorns, salt, a pinch of mace and a cupful of boiled rice. Allow these to cook an hour, at the end of which time the j broth is strainod off and returned to J the fire. Now add some stalks of colery ' chopped fine. While the soup is boll- j Ing, mix together one tablcspoonful of flour and one of butter and heat over . the fire with a cupful of milk. Add any ' mashed potato that may be left in tho ! refrigerator, a dash of pepper and salt ' and a pinch of mace. Boil up once and t strain Into the boiling turkey broth." ' Allow these to cook together for live ' minutes and serve with croutons. j Turkoy in Aspic. Remove the moat from the turkey carcass, peeping the j darK and light separate, and chop Jlne ly. Break the bonos and let them sim mer slowly with cold water, a bay loaf. nl a piece of mace. As soon as the i broth is reduced to half a pint, strain, and while hot add a rounding toa spoonful of gelatine, which has been softened in a little cold water. Sot aside until slightly thickened, when one cupful of it should be added to a cupful of the light meat," and another cupful to one cupful of the dark moat Now place the aspic and light moat In the bottom of a jelly mold and the dark meat and aspic on top. When cold and firm, servo with hot fried ewcet potatoes. Turkey Meat with Peanuts. Chop i the remnants of h cold roasted turkey. ' Add two tcspoonfuls of softened butter to each cupful of meat and rub to a j bmooth paste. Next add a cupful of soft bread crumbs, half a cupful of blanched and chopped peanuts, the yolk of one egg and a saltspoonful of pap rika. Mix together thoroughly and long, graceful coats which conceal un graceful linos. Tho cut of the skirt is also, a very nec essary point, for it is an cosy matter to spoil a figure utterly with the wrong skirt cue Narrow panels are always diminish ing -to iza, and for really old ladies a most comfortable arrangement of the skirt top Is to have It finished with a draw siring. Kindly cuts for hips which are too large show a bottom paneling of pleats on many 'of these skirts. The up por part of the skirt fits smoothly, and from the hips dewn it hangs with great looseness. In point of color. Mack Is pre-eminently the elderly woman's choice. But there N'ire many delicate fair types for whom black Is too severe, and for these, coft grays and the many beautiful shades of purple now in fashion are advised. Unless the complexion is good, however, the heavier grays, also exploited this tea son London-smoke, nickel, gunmetal, etc hould be avoided. There are also some shades in the purples which can only be worn becomingly by still blooming and oven pretty women past middle age. Brown Is usually unadvlsable. as it rarely achieves the look of richness desired. A beautiful doth draw recently worn by a majestic woman of CO or more was of prunelle chiffon cloth, with a short coat hanging loose at the front. Velvet Dishes From form in round balls. Roll in flour, then in beaten egg. and finally In crushed peanuts. Fry to a light brown In boiling fat ' Minced Roll of Mutton. Pass one pound of loan cooked mutton and a small quantity of loan bacon through a fine mincer and place in a mixing bowl. Add half a teacupful of fine bread crumbs, a llt'l finely mlriced onions and a toaspoonful of chopped pursier. Season -with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Whip one ogg until light, mix together with the prepared meat and roll Into an oblong cake on a floured board. Tie this roll in a piece of buttered muslin and stew In thick brown sauce for an hour. Frlod. Mutton. Cut some rather thick slices from tho remains of a leg of mutton, remove the fat nnd skin and trim them so that they are the same size. About an hour before they are required place them in a deep dish with a few sllcos of onion between tho pieces of meat. Sprinkle a little black pepper and nutmeg over them and cover with oil and vinegar mixed to gether In the proportion of three table spoonfuls of oil to one of vinegar. Sea son a small quantity of fine -white breadcrumbs with celery salt and pep per, and mix together with onion and minced parsley. Wipe the slices of moat when they are taken from the pickle, dip them into boatcn ogg and cover thom thickly with the -prepared crumbs. Allow the crumbs to harden on the slices of moat for ton or 15 minutes and fry quickly in plenty of boiling fat. Dram and sorve with spinach or cabbage and a piquant sauce. Mutton en Casserole. Cut some mod erately thick slices from a cooked leg of mutton, remove all fat and skin and pickle as in the previous recipe. Fry together for 15 minutos. one and a half ounces of butter, a sliced onion, a tomato, a few pieces of colery. a blade of mace and a few small peppers. Stir in by degrees three tablcspoonfuls of flour and add gradually two cups of boiling water. When this sauce has boiled and thickened, draw the pan to the side of the stove and allow It to simmer for 0 minutes. Place the moat in an earthen casserole and strain tho sauce over It- Cover with a piece of buttered paper and bake for two and a half hours. Mutton with Rice. Line a buttered baking dish with a wall of cooked rice about an inch thick. - Fill the center with cold roast or boiled mutton, chopped rather fine and freed from bone and gristle. Season with salt, pepper a little onion Juice and sxavy to make slightly moist. Cover with a layer of rice and bake half an hour in a moderate oven. Remove the cover, spread lightly with melted butter and allow the top to become a delicate brown. Serve very hot with tomato sauce. Beef Faggots. Pass some roast beef and a small quantity of cooked ham through a mincer. Season with salt. THE SUNDAY OREGOlAN", PORTLAND, DECEMBER 3, 1905. and gimp in somewhat deeper shades were employed as trimming, and the full veat and undarsleeves were of magnificent Irish lace. The bonnet worn with this gown was of prunelle velvot with gold tinsel roses shading to prunelle, and os trich plumes. The furs were of Russian sable. For elderly wearers moire Is a suitable material shown amon, the silks. Faille, peau de sole and Lyons .satin are others advised, while Henrietta doth, cashmere and French delaine are the chief wools offered. Some very charming house gowns are effected through a combination of cash mere and soft silk, black cashmere and dull silk frequently appearing for mourn-in'-'. "When It comes to tho street wrap, there is so little distinction between elderly and youthful cuts that In many cases color alone makes the difference. The Empire models are one exception, for these are distinctly for youth, but all the quainter mantles and dolman styles are approved. In some of the long silk coats, which are worn in the evening or with reception dresses, there Is sometimes a faint hint of Empire influence In the cut of the body portion, but this Mat is too vague to flaunt itself as befog too youth ful. There is only a pretty, qua int. short loosoness. sleeves with this style also Left-Overs pepper and nutmeg, and mix together with a large tcasponnful of chopped parsley and the same amount of chopped celery. Moisten the Ingredi ents with some thick brown sauce and roll Into small croquettes. Wrap the croquettes in a layer of puff paste of medium thickness, roll in fine dry breadcrumbs and stand aside for a quarter of an hour. Now brush tho rolls over with beaten egg and fry in boiling fat until a golden brown. Chicken Rolls with Peas. Cut a pound of cooked chicken into small pieces and pass through, a mincer. Sea son with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Add a small quantity of finely minced qnlon and a dessertspoonful of parsley.'also finely chopped. Mix the ingredients to stopping short enough to give a glimpse of beautiful laco undersleoves. A wide, loose puffing is often employed upon these coats, and sometimes a little silk cape will have a collar finished with long silk fringe. Properly disposed, there is no trimming more beautiful than a deep, knotted silk fringe. Espedally are models in the new furs also kindly to fading looks, for these fol low the quaint cuts long associated with grandmammas. Pelerines, tippets and muSs have all that long-ago charm the elderly woman needs, though in direct contrast to these styles the furs of many smart old ladle.-, are exaggeratedly small. For example, the tippet will be a narrow piece with short, blunt ends finished with gimp or two tails, and the muff the small roll of terrseasons ago. Same little cra vats with ruffled cascade fronts in Persian lamb are stylish and becoming fur pieces which may "be had at a reasonable price, but the bigger models In the beat furs are. quite expensive. However, there is always' a medium choice, though the best thing should be bought whenever possible. Black and silver lynx shapes some of the handsomest of the season's sets, and the plain black lynx, for -which there is quite a furore, is especially handsome for mourning. Lynx is far cheaper than Persian lamb, which, though made up into the most useful garments. Is. with its child, broadtail, essentially an old lady fur. Some entire dolmans made up with an astonishing dressiness are seen in Persian Iamb, but the mink capes, many gether with two tablcspoonfuls of cream sauce and one egg. and spread out on a flat dish for two hours. In side boats made from this minced meat peas aro laid, and each boat is wrapped in puff paste. Bruih with beaten egg and fry in boiling fat. Calf's Liver and Celery. Cook a cup ful and a half of chopped celery in water until tender. Drain thoroughly and add to half a cup of cooked calf's liver mixed together with throe-quarters of a cup of cream sauce. Season to taste, stir over the fire until It bolls, and serve on slices of buttered toast. The Professor. Tci," said the doctor, who was in a reminiscent mood, "after knocking about this town for a year or two. without making a success of anything. I finally gravitated to Denver "How could rou gravitate there? in- j terruptfd the professor. "Isn't Denver ' at least 460u feet higher up than this i townT Chicago Tribune. of which' are also offered, arc much scanter In eut than these. If the purse la limited though, these ex pensive carments are left aside, cloth mantles with fur sets being worn Instead. , To make these comfortable for the sever est weather vests of gray angora wooi could be worn underneath, these feather light little garments "being recommended as perfectly impervious to cold. They last a lifetime, though the first paying J7.50 may seem dear. And since we aro on the subject of wool vests or sweaters of any sort. remember that a broad ribbon bind ing is a very relieving touch around the neck, all knitted garments being trying at this point In choosing a fur set much, of course, depends upon the wearer's type, and if a more youthful look is desired, a boa la to be preferred to the shaped tippet. Very stunning cravats can be had In lynx from 117 up. the muff for these being in the usual flat shapes and costing about VS. To go with sets in chinchilla a gown in a new material might be suggested. This is chinchilla velvet, a radiant tex ture which- Is Imported in black and white, and in chinchilla shadings with beautifully silvered reflection. A grand toilette suggested by a French Journal for an old lady of elegant tastes was of chinchilla velvet (chinchilla shadings) with a quaint cape of the fur. This cov ered a soft little bodice of silk and black Stylish Stocks for the Tailored Maid SMART neckwear has become so im portant to the well-dressed woman that not only does her top drawer hold a goodly supply of fresh stocks for each day in the week, but she Is constantly on the lookout to find some novel and distinctive dressing for her throat. As a consequence, neckwear counters In the best shops are filled to overflowing with ingeniously wrought collars and ties. From these the deft-fingered girl can obtain no end of. welcome ideas by which to build stocks for herself or most acceptable gifts for her girl friends at the fast-approaching Chrlst mastlde. Colored neckwear Is no longer worn and white lace, the front of the cape end ing with long scarfs of the black lace. With this superb toilette should be worn a black bonnet in Jet and tulle with a white os prey. Returning to furs, some of the dyed skins are made up into very handsome models, and as furs are essential to a smart appearance In Winter, it is far better to have these than none at alt; and if the skins are selected to harmonize with the rest of the toilette one cannot go far wrong. With violet and gray, the furs which imitate mink are very effect ive, and with the richer puroles dyed squirrel, marten and Alaska sable are all good when in becoming models. Ermine, in small quantities, is used upon a number of tho pelerines, with Per sian Iamb,, mink, etc., and these combina tions are very smart for dress occasions. In point of millinery fur is almost never employed for old ladles, whose bonnets follow the lines of the capotes worn this long while. The bonnets are of velvet, lace. Jet and felt, the last being composed generally of plateaux folded Into the de sired shape. The strings of narrow vel vet, tying under the chin, are In almost every case worn by ladles above 50. and with hats for younger women the ro mantic scarfs now employed at the back are sometimes utilized, with a most soft ening result, as face strings. Old lady bonnets arc seen In" all the rich colors allowed, and the more splen did ones for evening and reception wear show the subtle beauties of the season without linen or lawn turnovers. These fresh, clean trimmings aro fastened on Invariably now with buttons and but tonholes, and the girl who Is finishing any dainty little collars will dq well to make tiny buttonholes at the center and ends of lnturning folds. Ready made stocks with accordion-pleated or butterfly bows all have small-size glove buttons on the Inside for attach ing either stiff linen or delicately em broidered muslin turnovers. Extremely smart and equally con venient are the silk stocks with a long tab end. Dapper linen turnovers pro tect them about the neck, while a shaped tab of smaller size is fastened over the silk tab by miniature silk covered buttons. The latter match the blue or red or green silk employed in 45 crumpled velvet Jessamine, tinsel roses and camelias. and bullion edges with Just the right tarnished look. For. though highly burnished gilts are everywhere em ployed among the tinsel trlmmlns-s. dimmed gold Is the last cry for the ex clusive. Everywhere delicate or extravagant touches of tinsel are used, and most beau tifully may the silver sorts be employed for the wearer past SO. For It is at this early age that many women need to be gin to be careful, though If the woman of 30 Is gifted In matters of dress, she may outshine her younger sister any time. A ravishing toilette for a woman of 30 years (a most seductive age. by the wny) began with a cream lace skirt superbly embroidered in gilt to give a scattered firefly effect all over the skirt, above th heavy Grecian band. The bodice for this was in Wateau-greon velvet like a bright shade dimmed and the high girdle of tin sel ribbon was held up at the front with a bouquet of dull gold camelias. One could see the woman who would wear this best blonde, a little faded, slim, adorable, and, last, but not least, as tall as the Duchess of Towers. The evening wraps, which include a misty neck fixing a marabout scarf or tulle ruche are softening to faces no longer fresh, and In selecting a model for the cloak look first for those with sleeves In the cut a sort of loose gathered-up dolman effect. The generous flowing look of these Is very becoming. MART DEAN'. the stock, or the dominant color in the gay-hued plaids mentioned above. All sorts of colored silk or ribbon bows form the trimming for plain white collar bands, and are held in plae by narrow linen straps that but ton over and are almost hidden within the full silk loops. With the girl who affects tailored neckwear, embroidered linen collars fastened by pert bows are In great favor. Close French embroidery in fleur de lis or disc patterns ornament these. One of the latest English Im portations shows instead of the usual hemstitched edge an application of Chantllly lace In narrow diamond shaped medallions. A large rosette of lawn Inset with similar lace mot!f3 conceals the fastening of the stiff turn over collar. White pique stocks In this tailored neckwear shows ends worked with hand embroidery or strapped with tucked pique in lavender, blue or pink, and set off by tiny pearl buttons. Instead of the frllllngs of Valenciennes lace so much used last year, medallions of this sheer lace are Inset In linen and lawn with tiny edgings of Cluny or Alen con finishing the edges. Motifs of heavy cream lace are also inset in white hand kerchief linen. These delicate medallions are most effective when forming the center of some flower or spray design worked In French embroidery. Very lovely Is a fine lawn stock showing a medallion of rose Valenciennes directly at the mid dle of the collar band encircled by One shooting tendrils worked closely In mercerized cotton. Two short bows spread out below the medallion and have the upper edge of each loop Inset with lace. Falling from this, spatula shaped ends broaden Into fans of accordion-pleated lawn, and are likewise inset with medallions. 9 Dainty beyond words are the stocks of silk bobblnet overlaid with Louis embroidery in delicate pastel colorings. The bobblnet is lined with chiffon, while on the outside a line of tiny pink and blue roses surrounds the upper and lower edge of.the neckband, as well as the circular or cape collar that Is fas tened around It- Sprays of green foli age branch out from the flower edg ings. 'and in many cases hold down sheer medallions or motifs cut from Valenciennes lace. An accordion pleat ing of liberty silk In white or cream to match the color of the bobblnet, ex tends below the cape In similar outline. Just Resentment. Chicago Tribune. The pretty girl with the auburn hair had refused him. "I never dreamed. 2-r. Smyklns," she said, "that your attentions to me" were anything- more than those of a friend." Oh. you didn't! growled the young man. "You thought I had been coming here regularly once a week during the last six months merely for the pleasure of seeing you eat a 50-cent box of candy, did you'"