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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Dec. 3, 1905)
44 rst EAR to the heart of every woman Is a pretty lounging robe. No matter how small her allowance. 'It Js In variably a part of her wardrobe, and usually Its most becoming member. Even the perfectly tailored maid throws aside her austerity when she enters her boudoir and becomes charmingly feminine In the softest negligee that her fancy can pic ture and her purse afford. Kimonos, so long In favor, are really the quickest and altogether most practical kind of lounging robe. Then, too. they are so easily made with the aid of a 10-oent pattern. "When bought ready-made there Is apt to be a samenoss about them all. On the other hand, the girl who makes her own kimono has, the advantage of a thousand and one unique patterns and col orings In clinging fabrics. Delaines and challics have rather taken the place of crepe cloth in building these Japanese lounging robes. Some of the new printed cashmeres are exquisite for this purpose. Take, for instance, a soft cash mero in American Beauty red. striped with a trellis of poppies on a whito back ground. The material, because of Its strik ing design, lias a distinctly scant cut. Beauty satin ribbon binds the edges of sleeves and fronts. Essentially Japanese kimonos are most effective when built lit these artistically patterned materials. Made up like an Oriental dress, with wide sash, striking peacock designs and weird, many-colored flowers are displayed in the more expen sive of these loose gowns. One of the latest conceits Is a cloth stamped with lantorn patterns, accordion pleated, so that it falls like a nugc ran arouna tne feet. When warmth is a necessary feature In n lounging robe, gowns of eiderdown are wonderfully cozy. These arc built simpler nnd with less fullness ach year, thus ob viating much of their former clumsiness. A note of beauty is Introduced by cm- broldored motifs In silk or mercerized cot ton on collar and deep cuffs. A rope cord in silk or wool, with bunchy tassels, fas tens these robes gracefully at the front. The more elegant of these heavy gowns are built of embossed China silk In plain colors and lined with cotton wadding to make them warm. Satin ribbon finishes the edges, and silk cord and tassol invar iably encircles the waist line. Both kimonos and eiderdown robes, how ever, are for morning and evening negli gees. A daytime negligee usually consists of potticoat and corset cover, -while the woman who Is considerate of her health dons some kind of a loose Jacket. In fact. dainty dressing sacqucs with silk or other i I Newest Hatpins for the Winter Headgear TdJS plain, black-headed hatpin has seon its most prosperous days. Its brilliant rival, the jeweled pin, has come to stay, and its place in the millinery world is quite as Important as feathers, bows or buckles. The hat without hat pins which elthor match or glvo a har monious contrast cannot be olassed as smart headgear Paris sonds the most stunning effects In hatpins to fasten fine chapcaux. and among the latest importations cabochons of enormous size form the ornamenta tion. These are of amber or tortoise Bhell, a translucent ball or tapering cylin der an inch and a half long, of bright yellow or ohanglng browns, forming the head of a Very long pin. "With some of theso cabochons, the shell is in the shape of a small fancy side comb with or with out studding of colored stones. In sliver and gilt also the ornaments Handy Boxes WHEN" neatness is the leading char acteristic of the girl who has ac quired the fad for needlework, baskets and boxes furnish the most satisfactory receptacles for her sewing tools. Their stiff sides and corners keep the many little knick-knacks In good order, and whore thej" can always be found at a mo ment's notice when needed. All the pock ets that can bo put inside the long favor ite sewing bag are not'sufflclent to keep a busy needlewoman's thread, needles, etc., as tidily as do these new baskets and boxes. The workbag has had Its long reign in nilladl's bodould chiefly because ordinary sewing backets looked so angular among dainty, graceful fittings. Now. however, the sewing box Is quite as much an orna ment to the young girl's room as the most gorgeously flowered bag. Light weight tapestry cloths in soft Ivory color ings cover both square and circular re ceptacles, and are bound with the richest of old gold braids. Many of the boxes jpaofe mlnlaturea""of old. xnasterj;kcc& .set IftssBMV' --111 I2flmB WWW f sftmm-k i,::':v-Ti;? aou J-Mswm imwwwm ' t f Haw utk ..mmmsmu s.- w-' tm mlpiii wwwf: am handsome underskirts are preferred by many fastidious womon to the long loose gown. A charming example of the short dress- which terminate hatpins are very large, almost massive-looking. Crouching lions, bulldog heads, bears with glinting jewel eyes and many weird and grotesque de signs are carved in metal and stand out boldly on simply trimmed hats. In contrast to these hugo affairs, noth ing could be more simple and effective than a solid gold hatpin which can be purchased as low as J2.00 apiece. The heads of these are long, narrow shafts of gold with amythyst or sapphire set m the top. Others show heads of flhgree gold studded with tiny rhinestones or colored gems. The all-rhlnestone hatpin Is a. particu lar favorite this Winter, and is worn largely with fur hats. Horseshoes, cres cents or stars are outlined by white bril liants, and nothing lovelier could be im agined than these glittering ornaments nestling amidst soft chinchilla, ermine or moleskin hats. Single balls or cones of shimmering crystal also show splendid ly against fur or with hats which are of one rich coloring only. and Baskets for In the center of the lid. One unusual box is tall and rather narrow, with five small drawers, each divided Into several com partments for keeping silks, needles, etc.. apart from each other. Other sewing boxes are covered with flowered denims to match bureau and desk fittings. Sim ple white gimp gives an effective finish. For a small box in which to carry sew ing matorials for an afternoon's work inch-wide ribbon is laid on pasteboard in successive rows, a figured pompadour rib bon of delicate shadings alternating with a plain color that harmonizes. Choux of baby ribbon catch the corners of the box together and form a fastening by which the ribbon-bound lid Is held down. Splendidly compact straw baskets thor oughly fitted out with sowing equipment are circular in shape, and contain a num ber of pasteboard ledges. The latter are tightly bound in silk or thin leather, and have straps and grooves in which to slip cverj'thlns from lessors to darning needle. Spools of silk and cotton in every conceivable color line the sides of the basket, the exterior of which is In yellow or brown straw, highly varnished. An innovation la tall receptacles for THE SUNDAY ORECK)XIAN. PORTLAND. DECEMBER 3, 1905. ' 'jJM ,Bfi Ing jacket shows a combination of Ale neon lnsortion nnd white China silk. Hanging rtralght from the shoulders in fine tucks, the silk is edged with a row of lace, below By far the daintiest of all fancy hat pins aro those made in wonderfully per fect Imitation of flowers. For Instance, a marguerite hatpin has the petals of stiff white fabric partly closed about a yellow center. Violets of cloth or silk form the heads of pins and look for all the world like a real blossom. Then the very fashionable camella, built not only in exact Imitation of the waxen leaves of the growing flower, but of gold or silver tinsel as well, are attached to pins and used for making the hat secure. SlKmkl a girl choose to make Christ mas gifts of fancy hatpins there are scores of unique designs. The charm of a gift of this sort lies in its being dis tinctive. One of the very new pins Is a gilt locust with a long, highly polished amethyst body and beady amethyst eyes gleaming In the round gill head. Jades In different colorings Is worked Into many quaint and unusual figures, and cut glass tops In a hundred and one odd shapes make a brilliant showing In the much dented Winter hat. the Seamstress sewing materials Is almost as novel as the umbrella workbaskets which made their appearance last year. Held between three wooden standards, each of which Is two feet In length, a large round cheese box forms an under tier to this unique sewing box. while the inverted cover of the cheese box serves as a shallow recep tacle on the upper tier. Both tiers are padded with cotton batting concealed be neath figured chintz or sllkallne. A fill ing of the chintz rises above the edge of each box. and needlework, cushion, etc. covered to match, are fastened In side the top tier. The cheese box Is the kind In which large American cheeses are packed. As these are built of a very light shade of wood, dark oak or other such wood stains can be employed to make the box and the three standards match the woodwork In the girl's boudoir. Tle Modern Way. The Dutch boy in the old 6tory, who found a leak one night in a bis dike and saved the countryside by stopping It with his flnrcr until f ova. ihlVeriag- which Is a lace-trimmed ruffle. Gather ings of narrow satin ribbon finish this rufile as well as the Iacc-trimmd ruffles on sleeves and around the cape yoke. Built from fagoted stripes of itvertfon. the latter come down over the shoulder?, extending to a deep point front and back, and are caught by a rosette of satin rib bon. Sheer lawn could be employed very ef fectively Instead of the China silk, and Valenciennes inserttlon used In place of the Ale neon lace would render this fasci nating little negligee serviceable as well. In the matter of silk skirts, there are ever-Increasing beauties In this Indispen sable luxury. For luxuries they certainly arc. in spite of the fact that the average with cold next morning, has now a rival. A birch-bark canoe carrylnn three persons on a Western lake Is re ported to have run on a rock and been pierced below the water line. There upon one of the party, a woman, took her chewing- gum, bravely held It in the leak until shore was reached, and saved the party. The moral seems plain. Springfield Republican. Maiden Names in Other Innds. London Chronicle When a woman Is married In this country her maiden name Is seldom mentioned. Many people to whom she Is very well known have never hoard lu In France, on the contrary, there are constant reminders of the earlier dignity. In Belgium, marriage does not extinguish It, for many married women often combine the old name with the new. Moreover, they put Jhe maiden name last, thus giving- It the greater distinction. We can Illustrate this by supposing- the cuetom to pre vail in this country. In that case Miss Brown when she married Mr. Robin son would have her visiting- cards printed: Mrs. Robinson-Brown. This double-barreled arrangement does not glye the Belgian wife a better social status than the English wife's, but It Is very soothing to feminine pride. $8000 for Pur Coat. A coat of royal Russian sable, valued at $9000, has Just been completed by a New Tork fur dealer for Mrs. D. R. Banna, of Cleveland, daughtcr-ln-law of the late Mark Hanna, and was ex pressed yesterday. The garment Is of medium length, and 500 newly Imported skins were used In its making. It Is trimmed at the bottom with a fringe of natural tails and paws, and a deep yoke effect is outlined at the back and front with paws. The neckpiece and cuffs consist each of one entire skin, with paws, tali and head unremoved. The lining- is of white satin. Already "Well Made. Philadelphia Press. "Miss Deepley does make some of the most inapt quotations, remarked Bragg. "Tear queried Newltt. "What, for Instance T "Well. last night I remarked that I alway avoided political discussion be cause I didn't want to make a fool of myself, and she said, "One cannot paint the Illy, or gill r&ae sold.' woman considers them actual necessities with her best frocks. The most practical of the nner silk petticoats are made this season with detachable flounces. In this way the fitted body part can be built of good quality percallne. whilo different fancy flounce can be buttoned on below th knee and give the effect of a new skirt. Ptakl silks in gay colors are very much in evidence for petticoats. Soft taffetas in two tones, with or without fieckings of white, are also popular, especially In sil ver gray. And for well-flHed purses, sup- pie brocaded satins shape very modish un derskirts. Trimmings play an important part in the rlner petticoats. Insertions and medal liens of lace set off doltcate satins, while Fine Laces at TdE tremendous craze for handwork both in fine laces-and In embroidery bids fair to increase rather than dimin ish, and women who know the Infinite pains and care that it demands are ask ing. "What is the price that must be paid for it eventually?" Mlladi who buys lingerie exquisite with Freaeh embroidery and gowns magnifi cent with trimmings of real lace thinks she is covering all expenses when she writes her check in payment of the trades men's Mils. And it is true that the linen houses and the fine modistes get futl measure for handling these goods. But somewhere in poorly lighted rooms thou sands of eyes are straining from early mornlag till late at night to turn out this fine handiwork, and the people who take all the delicate stitches are not receiving the merest pittance for their labor, but paying for It twice over in the damage to their eyesight. Then there is the girl and she Is not Prefer Manual The therapeutic value of interesting manual work for tired brains has long been recognized. Two physicians, who have made a special study of nervous dis eases, have hit upon the Idea of establish ing in the quiet seaside town of Marble head, Mass., an Arts and Crafts Sanita rium. They had long- held that rest treatment is often unwise for those suffering from nervous breakdown because physical rest does not necessarily Include rest for the mind and the nerves. The beginning of the snnltarlsin was in a small shop, but now the bouse formerly occupied by the Bay View Yacht Club, at Marblehead. is its workshop headquarters. Here a dozen or more patients are regularly to be found pursuing- one or another of the handi crafts adopted by the sanitarium. The atmosphere of the house Is cheery and normal. There Is nothing anywhere to suggest Illness or nerves. On the piaz zas, wmch are swept by the tonic breezes of the harbor, and in front of which yachts continually pass, the patients stay several hours a day. Four skillful girls are on bond to help' la the teaching, aad FR WINTER taffeta is exquisite with insertions of hroderie Anslais. A 'lovely example of these dressy skirts is" in light peacock blue taffetas with rufile almost to the knee, headed by deep insertion of eyelet embroidery on the same blue silk. Strips of the embroider run up and down on the ruffle, separated by pleated fans of the silk. In simpler style Is a yellow and white striped glace silk having Innumerable ruf fles forming a deep flounce. Fold3 of yel low satin bind each ruffle and extend in three lines around the skirt proper. An outcome of the Princess frock Is a silk slip fitted In one line from shoulder to knee and buttoning down the front. At the foot of this i3 attached a silk ruffle fastened on by a double line of buttons and buttonholes. These slips arc also made in muslin, edged with fine lace and flnlshod with accordion-pleated silk ruffle or muslin with lace trimmings. In the realm of more elaborate lounging robes the season's display is inexpressi bly lovely. Xever were there so many graceful, shapely gowns made up to tempt feminine buyers. The most irresistible of these are built of crepe de chine, either plain or printed. In gorgeous design. An Imported model of Ivory crepe de chine hangs loosely from the shoulders in accor dlon pleatlngs. A bolero jacket of coffee- a Cost That Is one but many In large cities who, when she has finished her work downtown, comes home to the evening task of sew ing thousands of minute spangles onto the mesh of a halrthread net. Or per haps she ekes out her small week's sal ary by counting thread for thread and groups which go to make up yards of sheer linen hemstitching. To do this work by the light of day would not pay hardly for what she eats, so she wears out her eyes and strength sewing late Into the evening hours by the light of a single gas Jet. Still larger Is the proportion of women who have not the price to buy the fine embroideries and laces In the shops, but who must keep pace with the demands of Dame Fashion. Consequently they try to make It for themselves. Every spare mo ment is spent putting myriad embroidery stitches Into the collar and cuffs for this waist, the fronts for that lingerie blouse, the trimming for the new taffeta skirt or the brilliant bands which set off the deli cate evening cloak. A severe headache Work Before over them and the patients Miss Jessie Luther, who controls the technical part of the shop, keeps a watchful eye. Miss Lu ther got her training at Hull House. Chi cago. At frequent intervals nourishment is served, and whenever there is the slightest indication that a worker Is becoming over tired it is tactfully suggested that she rest for a while in the cozy living-room upstairs, where books, magazines, easy chairs and on chilly days an open fire supply a thoroughly delightful atmosphere of home. Weaving; wood-carving and pottery are the principal branches taught In the school, and of these weaving- and pottery are the favorites. In the former Miss Luther encourages the patient to under take only the simplest parts, however, be cause it would be easy to overwork at the big. old-fashioned looms with which thi shop is equipped. The rugs made here are very beautiful, and are much in demand, nqrth shore people having discovered that they need only send the dimensions and color scheme desired to be supplied promptly with, artte-tic and characteristic colored maline lace gives the Empire ef fect. Insertions to match trim the open ing In front and conceal the juncture of a plain, shaped flounce with the accordion pleated gown. Puffed sleeves of the crepe de chine caught up above the elbow are finished with lace-trlmmed ruffles lined with accordion-pleated chiffon. Shirrings of chiffon soften the V-shaped neck and come together In a butterfly rosette of liberty satin ribbon and long ends. In the same clinging style, a gown of black chiffon Is made up over cream colored silk. Cream-colored guipure shapes a short cape over the shoulders, and a bolero underneath the arms. A low. round collar of the lace is caught in loops and long ends of the black chiffon, while black chiffon Is employed In billowy masses to form the unlined bell-shaped sleeves. Empire effects are splendidly adapted to the teagown negligee. "With cashmeres and other soft wool materials, wide braids, showing silver or gilt threads, form the Empire corselet. In other Instances white cotton gimp produces a similar effect and displays a color note like that In the ma terial of the gown. Still a third yoke bo lero fa ornamented with an embroidered motif In self-tone, a single orchid bloom worked In pale blue silk decorating the cape collar of a pale blue crepe de chine robe and the points of the loose Oriental sleeves. KATHERIXE ANDERSON. Far Too Great on an average of twice a week to a wom an of this kind carries no warning; save that she must keep her room with drawn shades until the pain has subsided, when she will return to her fine work with more avidity than ever. The fact that she Is storing up endless headaches from the constant and close application of her eyes never enters her mind. A visit to the oculist perhaps necessitates lotions and two or three pairs of glasses, but hand embroidery she musst have at any cost. She never stops to think what price she is paying for this extravagant craze. But there Is a price and It is an enor mous on for her Just as for the women who do the handwork from necessity. Nerves, headaches, pale cheeks, ill-tempers, and finally a heavy, gloomy view of life because the spark of vitality which makes life worth living has died out all these inevitably constitute the price. And of what? A bit of picayune embroidery or lace, the beauty of which could never in a thousandth part repay for tho energy and good health lost in its making. Rest Treatment floor coverings. The herringbone counter panes and the Swedish table covers turned out here are thoroughly distinctive also so much so. Indeed, that tho products of this handicraft sanitarium are now eagerly sought for at the arts and crafts shops. From the flrst it has been the policy that the shop, or school, as it Is sometimes called, should not In any sense be a play shop, but that its products should always be of the better sort. To this end trained workers who should also be teachers and active producers were employed. . The House Over the Sea Is now a shop merely. None of the patients lives here. It was found advisable that the dormitory should be apart from the place where the work Is done, so that when the few hours allotted to it are over the patients may take rest or recreation In a different at mosphere. Men as well as women are now enjoying5 the recuperative effects of life in this unique sanitarium. They become especial ly Interested in wood-carving, carpentry and pottery, soon coming- to do good work; In these crafts, although, of eours. their; early tasks are step!. North, American.