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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Nov. 3, 1901)
- - -"-if r TUB SUNDAY- OREGONIAN, PORTLAND NOVEMBER 3, 1901. 29 fmm "WasKable "White Waists. Those of White Corduroy Find Much Favor Furs to Wear. 1CEW YORK. Oct. 28. One of thoso fashions which comes In with such force that for the moment nothing else seems Important Is the white corduroy shirt waist. It will be worn all Winter. No body Knows who started it, but that It is a great discovery, and that its saving grace Is a common topic of feminine con- creation Is evident from the results. In shops whose patrons do their own think ing, white corduroy is being sold about as last as It can be cut off. Second-clabs stores, whose customers db not know that fashion le anything but a matter of ca price, are not yet so buey measuring the modish stuff. They will find out about it later. The success of the white corduroy shirt waist Is due to a happy union of ad vantages. It la becoming it is an expres sion of the 'white craze common at pres ent, it is warm enough for "Winter wear. It Is inexpensive, it may be worn with a skirt of any color, and it launders. Be sides, corduroy always has that quality not easily described, but known as "smart." After the freshness and prettlness of the Summer, women have been loath to commit themselves to the stuffiness of even a choice botweon several "handy" afternoon waists. A bodice for utility wear which cannot be washed quickly loses cholccnosfi. Somebody reduced the v. hole need and lis difficulties to lowest terms, which spelled white corduroy, and the wealthy, fashionable girl thinks it i& about the most modish material which she can find for morning wear under any clrcumstancos whatever. Most of us will be glad we have such waist? in our ward robes for ordinary matinee dress. How to Wasb. It. Some choice directions for washing white corduroy are these: Into warm water well soaped plunge the waist and thoroughly wet it Hub it on a wash board until all soiled spots are removed, rinse in water of same temperature, with out wringing; hang out to dry in the sun on a shaped wooden clothes hanger. Do not Iron. When the waist Is dry. it will have a rough appearance. Brush it smooth with any sort of clean brush (kept for the purpose) which is found effective. Not to be obliged either to wring, starch or iron the waist may appease tho lady who does the washing, for finding such an unusual garment in the weekly wash. Such novelties are not to be intrusted o Chinamen, nor to any other man, for laundering. It is said that men do every thing in the world better than we do, once they learn how. But the fashion easily might pass before they learned how. Men are thorough, but they are not quick. An intelligent washerwoman, not above taking a few instructions about how to do a new thins in a new way, makes the best cleanser of corduroy. There Is much room for individuality in the treatment of the now shirt-waist. Some women Will consldor it a morning garment, and, therefore, will wear a linen collar and tie with It The greatest num ber will cllnff to their favorite linen band or a ribbon, with endo more or less long in front. There io no authority yet among women of rood style for anything more fanciful at the throat than a big chiffon bow, and this is supposed to complete the toilet outside rather than especially to set off the corduroy waist Hott to Blake It. Ways of making are not so plentiful, though such waists may be buttoned at the front, side or back. Corduroy cannot be plaited to advantage, so it Is gath ered and made with or without a yoke, as one pleases. The Norfolk blouse Is not a bad model, though the straps are rather in the way In washing. Tho model I have seen which remains longest in my onind was fashioned with very long fronts, the gather coming from the shoulder seams. The waist was double-breasted, actually closed by pearl buttons as large as quar ter dollars. A. narrow belt from the same material Is the chic finish. It hooks Invisibly, or by a pin or buckle matching tho buttons when buttons are used. Some women are buying and having made up corduroy waists from pink and blue. The Dales men do not promise that these delicate colorings will launder; they eay that they do not know. There ought not to be any objection to investing In a quarter of a yard and trying it - An experiment I am making quito on my own account is with white volveteenr For soma occasions It would be a bettor material, sinw it is of lighter weight I have washed savagely and. Ironed (Ironed, mind you, on the back) a large piece of white velveteen, and It looks better than before -it went into the tub. Then why should not a waist stand washing? Un derstand, I do not say that it would. I only ask the question. A eoml dressy blouse which will suit many women who think the corduroy too pronounced, or not sufficiently elegant. Is from prune-colored Louisine silk, trimmed with tiny white silk-covered buttons and Incrustations of ecru gulpuro lace. May Be Cat From Lace. The lace figures are such as are eold separately for appllquelng, or they may be cut from good old lace which hao be come ragced. In the new spirit of the fashions the waist should be worn only with a blending gown the color of prunes. A handsome waist to be worn with a red dress skirt (or if one have a mind to defy the latest command to make the bodice and skirt match, unless the for mer be white) is of tomato-colored satin de chine. The Ilk all over Is done Into small box plaits, with conventional de signs in tartan embroidery on the spaces botweon the plaits. The cuff has much tartan embroidery, a description of which is that the design Itself may be any con ventional bit, but the colors are one or another of the combination found in any tartan plaid. It is said that there Is panic in Rabblt vllle elnce the wearing of so much ermine has been commanded by the functionaries of King Edward. It te hoped that no In ternational complications will grow out of that Insinuation. Some of the furriers admit that there won't be ermine enough for everybody who wants to wear it thlsj Winter, for mere fashion's sake. Perhaps, though, there may be a sufficient quan tity for those who can afford to pay for it An authority on dress-says that only young children and old ladles should wear ermine In the daylight, anyway. Here la consolation, and since nobody asks that an evening -wrap shall be anything mora than warm and pretty, never genuinely anything, hero is the reason for the trou ble'ln Rabbltvllle. Ilnre for Ermine. Many of the sets of "ermine" sold for children's use are frankly "hare," and good enough for toys, since fuis are of such moveable nature that they hardly can become an integral part of an active child's wardrobe. Haro makes a pretty trimming for evening capes and cpatsj irom aeiicaie materials, it is tricKea out to imitate ermine, and doee well as so much mere decoration. Another whlto fur, which is effective for women for evening use, is white thibet. It comes notably In a collar with four very Jong ends, .and might form the entire trimmings of some home-made op era cape, or even of one which Is bought. place, are claimed to give, mere freedom. Some men swear by ono or other of these Invented garments, but I have noticed that the biggest bags are, generally; made by easy-going Individuals- in Norfolk jack ets of homespun, canvas or .khaki, cut very loose, with capacious pockets foe cart ridges. ' It Don't Worry TKem. Men who are sufficiently familiar with their sport and with their weapons to shoot straight aro not "Worried oven If tho shooting shoulder docs drag a little. Especially exposed to tho Inclemencies of the weather as they are, they are far more regardful of what to wear in the shape of undergarments and hosiery, 'which should be heavy and warm at this season of year. Flannel shirts of dark blue or gray are perhaps the most ser viceable for their purpose, while, stocks of subdued color arc the best neck cover ing. Tho hunter needs a pair of high boots for his feet, unless he is to do much wading, when rubber hip boots are neces sary. Add a soft felt or cloth hat for Ms head and a stout pair of trousers and l SL,.-jv- JJAai 'Fi-- Jli fO you arerattracted to her and interested In the idea and the product of her work. The gown Is so accurately copied as to style, colors, textures and detail gener ally, that it preserves the original model to all Intents and purposes, both for tho dressmaker and the customer, and no end of orders are taken from these cardboard slips long after he imported gown 'Is sold." ' it : SENSELESS FAD GOIXG OUT. FIOTver Breakfasts No Longer In Vogne in Society. "The- fad of 'flower breakfasts,' which threatened to become a popular form ot entertainment in London, is said to have failed of popular approval among the sas sity' people, and so," remarks the New York Press, "probably will not trouble us on this side of the water. For three sea sons a certain 'set' has been trying to mako them 'go.' Tho first season they were popular, the next less so, and the past season hardly were heard of. "These breakfasts consisted of dishes mada entirely of flowers. Salads made from the blossoms of the nasturtium al ternated with caper jelly and myrtle flower soup at these repasts. Usually the flowers of a peculiar species of pumpkin vine constituted the principal dish. They were yellow in color, fleshy, and about the size of a silver dollar. "Theae dlble blossoms were picked "be fore the 'petals were fully opened, baked or stewed In fresh tnillc and flavored wltli clove3, which, as every ono knows, or should know, are the unexpanded flowers of an evergreen plant growing In the East Indian Archipelago. The feast was fin ished off with a plentiful supply of can dled rose leaves, violets, etc It was an extremely aesthetic sort of meal, but not filling enough to meet with popular ap proval. After one of these breakfasts the guests generally went out and got some thing" to eat. "Dinners of sauces have met with more favor J.han the flower breakfasts and are not infrequently given by epicures search ing for new gastronomic sensations. One of tho most successful of these sauce din ners was given by a member of a 'swell' London club not Ions ago. The soup was represented by gravy sauce, and In lieu of'flsh, oyster and lobster sauces were handed around. Then came egg sauce and bread sauce, and for dessert thero was brandy sauce. This last course Is prob ably what saved the lives of the guests and host, for all survived, and pronounced the dinner a success. It really seems as if the giver of tho dinner should have included in his bill of fare Worcestershire, tomato catsup and tabasco. "A dinner was given at the Hotel Cecil In London the other day at which every thing served began with 'c,' Thero were 'clear soup, chickens, chops, claret, chain, pagne. coffee, cutlets, carrots, custards, champignons, curry currants and cucum bers, besides many more articles of food the names of which began- with 'c " MISS BONNIE DE LANO fi untrimmed. A muff of the whlto thibet adds much to the appearance and not a great deal to the expense of the furs. One has not nearly begun to understand the pretty practice of wearing fur pieces until she realizes that much which is meretricious may be worn in tho even ing, for the sake of warmth and mero decoration, which would be quite out of keeping for sober daylight. A lovely pelerine for daytime or even ing wear, a fur piece at once modish and not extremely costly, 13 Russian mus quash, with very long ends and plenty of tails. The musquash is not an animal very high In the scale of value, but In brown it has a prestige for women's worthy wear which the hare cannot at tain In white. Bag-shaped muffs are fashionable nov elties, if one wishes for them. Chinchil la, ever charming (for dark women), also comes In the now stole shape, the muff of the "bag" cut There are three tails at cither end, and young women cross ono portion of the boa over the other. Becoming Chinchilla. Chinchilla is among the few furs which big folk and little may wear with equal becoroingness, unless they be yellow haired. It may be conceivable that the light-haired woman "who would wear chin chilla, like tho woman who does not know what style of halrdresslng becomes her, is hopeless. The three-quarter coat has made such nroads upon the feminine affections that it seems as If nothing ever can take tho place of it We see it in fifty designs, In black, in all the coachman's gray shades and In castor cloth, which is liked rather well Just now on account of being a change'from the other light color, which became too popular. Shall any one ever forget the sensation which Mrs. Burke Roche made Eeveral years ago In her ulster of coachmans gray? She was the first of the grand dames to adopt tho new long coat, which since has become adored by the feminine world. Indeed, Its popularity was its own undoing, and that Is why the three-quarter length Is favored much more highly this year. At least that is one reason, though it Is much easier to hold up the dress with the skirt shorter. MARGERY DAW. our sportsman has a sensible, durable and comfortablo outfit, and Is prepared to cope with the beasts and the weather. BEAU BRUMMEL, JR. FROM HEAD TO FOOT. Appropriate Outfit for the Man With. Gnn or Rifle. I don't know, but that I may, with ap propriateness, venture some suggestions on tho subject of clothing for persons who, perhaps for the first time, are about to wander over the hiils or through the fields, with shotgun or rifle, in search of game. Of course, the born hunter or fisherman pays far more attention to his game than to his dress, for hunting and fishing aro not occupations that require one to be a conspicuous figure on the landscape. In fact one's garments 'shourd bo of such colors as will best harmonize with the dull colors of tho woods and fields. Patent SUootlns Jackets: A good deaf is being said and written just now about patent shooting Jackets, so I will explain what is meant, for, if you have seen one of these things you have practically seen all, their common object being always attained in the same sort of way. In shooting some men find their arms uncomfortably restrained when they raise tho gun to the firing position, especially when wearing1 the tight, coats of recent cut Hence various contrivances which, either by means of folds which lio , flat in ordinary tjlrcumstancee, but spread out when there Is a pull from the sides: or i by the Insertion of elastic at the right JAPANESE LUNCHEON FUNCTION. Attractive Xilca for Birthday Fete or Children's Party, Nothing could give children greater pleasure than a luncheon given for them, especially a Japanese luncheon, which af fords opportunity for odd and pretty dec orations. The dining-room should bo darkened and wires drawn across from side to side, fastened to tho picture mold ing; from these may be hung a dozen or more very small paper lanterns, some over the table and others about the room. In the center of the table may stand two good-sized Japanese dolls back to back, with a Japanese umbrela over them. Instead of the usual dollies or table-cloth, the table may be spread with delicate white Japanese paper napkins, with lace borders, and about It may be scatteted small metal trays, purchased at a curio shop, fillet! with candled ginger, candled orange peel, Japanese nuts and various Oriental sweets. At each place may be a little lacquered box, filled with candy, and the ice cream may be either In the form of Japanese children or else a plain cream served in small scarlet tea boxes, to be had also at the Japanese stores. Tho china used at this luncheon might be Japanese, to keep everything In har mony. The menu for a children's lunch eon should be a very simple one If the children are young; In this ono the salad may he omitted If It Is thought best: MENU. Cream of Celery Soup. Scalloped Fish in Shells. Stewed Chicken. Potatoes and Peas. Bread and Butter Sandwiches. Celery Salad. Crackers. Ice Cream. Cakes. Cocoa. ' Japanese Nuts. This Japanese luncheon Is quite pretty enough for children of a larger growth. With a more elaborate menu decorations of artificial camellas or peach blo3so.ms, and if It is desired to have it really Ori ental, Japanese costumes for both hostess and guests, it might easily bo carried out very attractively. A menu which would suggest Japanese cooking, without act ually following it, might be something like this: MENU. Brown Soup with Force-Meat Balls. Fish Baked in Shells with Chopped Plcklo Over It. Chicken and Rice Stewed "With Curry. Deviled Eros on Lettuce. Mayonnaise, Ice Cream In Japanese Boxes. Tea. Candled Ginger, Japanese Nuts.. Caroline Benedict Burrell in Gala Day Luncheons. BREAD, CHEESE AND KISSES. Some Traveling Lwxarien DcvlKcd for Autumn Brides. The Autumn bride has very handsome things to travel with this year. Of "course, no bride cares a flg what kind of trav eling, bags she has. Ker thoughts are. not on such material things. Nevertheless, says the Philadelphia Inquirer, tho hand some dressing cases and various travelers' luxuries offered for sale as wedding pres ents are enough to console the maiden who Is wedded to the wrong man or make even the happiest bride forget to give her new husband her entire attention for a few minutes at least Tho patent wood flbor trunks, for instance, aro now made with separate trays for tho dresses, so that each costume may be lifted out In tact without disarrangement to the oth ers. Externally the wear and tear of travel have equally little effect on tho wood-Hber trunks, which, as experience proves, return from journey after Jour ney In as good condition as that in which they started. A handsome dressing case Is of green alligator skin, lined with crushed morocco of tho samo shade; the fittings, which In clude a large oblong table mirror, are of antique design with dragoon edges, In sil ver gilt, the gold being applied by an old French process of firing which renders it absolutely permanent The glass of tho fittings Is finely engraved. Tea baskets are a favorite gift in those days of athletic bridal pairs, who go to tho wilds of the Adlrondacks and other wildernesses to pass their lune de mlel. The newest tea basket has several ad vantages over tho older makes, ono be ing that all fltt!ng3 in this particular in stance of silver aro arranged to tho front Another Is that there are no boxes to open and shut; tho enameled steel pro vision dishes slide open and are shut by simply pushing them 'back. Tho covers remain in the spaces when the dish Is open, but are removable for cleaning, tho dishes are easily filled, and tho provis ions can be served out with tho greatest facility. Another new feature Is the ar rangement of tho knives, forks, baskets, etc, In a shallow basket over the dishes, instead of in loops in the cover. Theso baskets, which, though only just intro duced, are already in great favor, are made In all sizes, for two to twelve per sons, and are, it is satisfactory to add, not more exp'ensivo than the ordinary lunch basket A delightfully convenient tea basket also with sliver fittings, has a kettlo which is boiled on a patent lamp con structed on safety principles, and the cups, Instead of being enameled, are In white china and are protected for trav eling by wicker cases. A Chicago Society Lady, in a Letter to Mrs. Pinkham, says: "Of All the Grateful Daughters to Whom Ycnf Have v Given Health and Life None Are ' - More Glad Than V1 , - . "What a reward for honest effort it is to receive such grateful aclotowledg1 ment as is represented in Miss Delano's letter; yet that letter, good asitia and prominent in social life as is its writer, is only one of thousands "which Mrs, Pinkham is constantly receiving from -women in all parts of the country "who have been restored to health and happiness, and the reason is easily guessed -there is not a day, nay, scarcely an hour, when iydia E. Pink liani's Vegetable Compound is not hringing health and happiness hack into the life and home of some poor suffering girl or woman, who out of tho gladness and fulness of her heart hastens to write Mrs. Pinkham and teE her all about it. IT CATCHES CUSTOMERS. Ifuvr Yorlc Dressmaker' Clever Idea for Selling Go-vrna. One of the new industries in tho way of hand-painting serves a double purpose at the fashionable dressmaking establish ments of New Xork, where, according to the Sun, of that city, young women are employed to copy in water colors all the important gowns. "This Is not a new idea this season, by any means, "but Is made," says the Sun man, "an Inter esting feature at one Importer's.. The artist Is placed In one corner of the show room, where sho plies her brush in full view of any one who may chance to come in. To be sure, the gown she Is painting J Is nartly hidden by a screen, but at once Fashions In "Wedding Presents. There are fashions in wedding presents just as in everything else. Once upon a, time our mothers' and fathers' time there was a strange and unaccountable tendency to pickle-Jars. This was suc ceeded by the pearl-handled tea-knife era and, later by the lamp epoch. This last Is of comparatively recent date. Only a short while ago the number of lamps re ceived at a wedding was enough to Illu minate a dozen houses Instead of the one they were Intended for. Just now the fashion runs to candlesticks. A recently married pair of Philadelphia who had rather hoped for lamps received not ono, whilo their candlesticks ran into the hundreds. Many brides and bride grooms within the last few months have had a like experience. The average wedding-present giver for whatever reason, has sudden'y token to candlesticks, and with the usual result that hl3 gift is a drug in the market. One couple, fairly swamped by candle sticks from well-meaning friends at their wedding last month, actually had to go to work and buy a lamp for a lamp-shado. the gift of somebody not yet caught up with the wedding-present procession. t Pretty Fancies in Stocks. The new stocks are prettier and more dainty than ever, and are mado with some reference to the waist with which they are to be worn. For example, if you have a hlue flannel shirt waist, the stock is of white taffeta, with blue taffeta silk edging, the turn-over band, which has three small blue-embroidered rings sewn in each corner. And then there are all sorts and kinds of neck scarfs of silk and crepe de chine, with lace applique and embroidered ends. Fobs Again in Fashion. Fobs for the watch are In fashion again for women, and they are worn tucked through the belt. All the old devices which the Jeweler can Invent are wrought Out in these little fancies, every sort of fancy stone, as well as valuable gems, being used In the varied designs, while for riding thero is a leather fob with a fancy monogram for ornament, Imcky Colors- for Garters. A yOung girl, blushing faintly, remarked at a theatrical performance, the other 5. ss s's'".'?7:Ze:-''?: MISS BONNIE DELANO. "Dear Mrs. Pinkham: Of all the grateful daughters to whom you have given health and life, none are more glad than I. "My home and my life was happy; until illness came upon mo three years ago. I first noticed it by being irregular and having very painful and scanty .menstruation; gradually my general health failed; I could not enjoy my meals ; I became languid and nervous, with griping pains frequently in tho groins. " I advised with our family physician who proscribed, but without any improvement. Ono day he said, 'Tryliydia Pinkhara's Remedies. I did, thank God ; the next month I was better7 and it gradually built me up until in four months I was cured. This is nearly a year ago and I have not had a pain or ache since." Bonntj; Delano, 3248 Indiana Ave., Chicago, HI. The sure help for all ailing women is !Lydia E. Pinkliam's Vege table Compound. Women who have used'it testify to this with one voice. When the periods aro painful or too frequent; when tho baokaches and headaches drive out all ambition; when the heart-breaking, . "dragged-down" sensation attacks you, when you are so nervous that every trivial thing excites you. you may be certain that there is some growing trouble fastening itself upon you. Do not let disease make headway. Write to Mrs. Pinkham, Lynn, Mass., for her free advice, and begin at once the use of Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable Com pound. Trustworthy proof is ahundant that Iydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable Compound saves thousands of young women from dangers resulting from organio irregularity, suppression or retention of the menses, ovarian or womb troubles. What will cure the mother will cure the daughter, for their organ ism is the same and governed by the same laws. REWARD. We hare deposited -with theNatlonal City Bank of Lynn, 5000, j which will bo naid to any Derson who can find that the above testimonial letter la not genuine, or vu published before obtaining the writer's special per suasion, juyuia js. riuKQam jueaiome uo., ,ynn, juasb. night, about tho garter of pale blue silk that a dancer wore below her knee: "It is bad luck to wear one's garters in that way, and I, for my part, would not do it. It Is also bad luck to wear whlto garters they signify death and yellow ones sig nify Jealousy and love troubles. "Garters tied in a true Iovors' knot are the most fortunate ones, and, if thev are Jeweled, that makes them still more fortu nate. Suspender garters have no bad luck attached to them, but they ro not very pretty. After tho true lover's knot tho black garter, fastened with a gold buckle, Is the luckiest. My own garters always match my stockings, but you could never induce me to wear stockings of white or yellow." Philadelphia Record. Smart Little Bolero. A little bolero, possessing the novel feature of crossing over and fastening on one side, is composed of blo,ck peau do solo, lined with white Orlontal satin, and overlaid with coarse old ivory Italian lace, tho rounded collar edge with Inser tion to correspond, sot transparent, be tween the tucked satin and a pleated frill. Tho sleeves are bell-shaped to tho elbow.v and terminate In moro laco and kilted satin. CHINCHILLA ALSO COWES IN THE NEW V STOLE -la 3HAPE3 l: Hilll& Jwlak J xr WlmMH fit k. JBS?iS3c m i liiiiiyiiiPM