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About Daily capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1903-1919 | View Entire Issue (April 11, 1914)
THE DAILY CATKAL JOURNAL SAIEM. OWEOOV BATUEDAT, APEIL 11, 1914. GreatsfT f Dcsi driers - m , Mine Simcox Greats xT & Creator" L c . C OP YR.I C HT .t 9 A- CL ARf A-f'E is America's Desi driers of Fashion, i AVE NEW YORK. tCOY.- 2 ' ITi! '.lit coml.ip c' Eaa- ta- tlio n:?ciititc9 of V'.'B M'lV illlOlll'tla Is er n:c'))ri ilshod fact Li Tiy opinion tlila 1914 S;r!:? pi'..ouetto was f.-.:t !rn:i(,T.ratcd in tlio f;v.'.p cf the kilt or lamp- Jhado akrt, And it v.ib only to be cx 'rvctsd -.r.t tI)S Increased fullno-is iroucd the L'rs vouid result lu tlio cturaa of tlavj In tlio inovltalilo bwIus; 6f the ,'pea:Ulmtt; lit other words, tva pior-pr of faction were not k1"W 'to boo tii evolutions capable of being rorked ;ut 0:1 i'e quaint outstanding tuub, anfl tha hiu-d straight line of this mode barf given way before tlio greater -grace of draperies to nttiln tUo pro-t-Jineed r,lop9 upwards from tlio hips uui Vb. iubsoiuert drawing In nt tlie nthlM. ' fata still making an absolute iunlo, by. tin vrBttiMt, softest tiling uiiajjlndo ijciinHcent of Cower ii t- Ylewlnx; tha et.y'ej In a mans, there is at defying the inpresslon left Is e npc?cbudnr;ce of detail. Models IiT bei crsnted to suit every typo of woman, and accessories linvo been launched Ihifi reason to harmoiilv.cMvilh every wonian's paitlcular pe!"iouai:ty. Tho woman who in short of the over ago .helnht by several Inches and who !,: moreover, Inclined to spread unduly from stda to side, cannot wear Ui3 unmc n.s her tall, slim sister; who aloi: i enn only hope to carry off KiicTssfni! iViitlni:s boist'ii; Ihreo or four deckur KklrN of one or two mattiialu, si:r iiidiinted In all probability by a coat o a third dlTerluK fabric. 1'erliaps the most typical silhouette I can offer you is that of an elegant jN'cw Yor"; v, ninan who Is noted not only fi.r her CT.iu!lte gowns, but lier uian:ier of weailiiR them. Tall and very siia, h"f slr.uoiia movemetits conveying tin lmpr(!Hsl()p of bonelessnens, sho wc-ira a costume of tllleul colored t'liTeta, tlmt benutlful shade of tho unripe l!u:i. TLj cklrt Is draped lu nn entirely ne-.v uinu nor. It somewhat resembles n Turkish i;Mrt, but upon closer lnverAIs.'.tlon It In found that the effect Is achieved by means o clever shlrrtngs. It Is very full and presents n double puffed effect above tho knees. Tho Ciuterlal azouu'J 1 nil . .. , model la the necklace. Following tb4 rogue for a lavish, display of beads on evening gowns, there Is a necklace composed of strands of rose pink anil crystal beads decorating the walat, ( Tango Pantaltltts j With the new "cross 6ver" dancing frocks, whose grjceful folds ore so cunningly arranged as to reveal no , opening, when In reality It exists up a far as even the walat line Itself, 1 worn a single undergarment called tha Tango pantalettes. These are shaped very much after the fashion of thoso worn by tho odalisques of the harem, being qulto baggy directly below the bips and ending shortly below th knee, where they are beld In place by, a garter, Jeweled or plain, as fancy may dictate. They are attached high walstodly to a silk brassiere, forming a one piece garment, and are mndo of various fabrics, such as crepe do Chlno or silk chlnolse. One of tho most fas cinating models Is cut from a cloth of gold and has been designed to wear under an ethereally lovely dancing dress of milled pink tulle. When walk ing or sitting there was not tho slight est hint of tho existence of such an undergarment on the liguro of the wearer, and It was only when In tho maxes of the complicated figures of tho dame that an evanescent glcaru of gold !!ashej forth from amang tho swirling draperies. The sketches which Illustrate my ar ticle portray tho typical silhouette for 1!M 1. In I'lg. 2 note the trim flt of tho s'drt on the hips and tho flare given to the pleated Vandyke flounce, the tight effect nt tho inkles, and tho long fslcevoa coming down to tho wrists. Illack Uffetu Jj the medium used for this gown. A black Ellk braid about . ten inches In width forma a perfoctjlt tlng hip yoke mid. is again used on fba vnl.'-'t, giving to the gown n smart, corsslct effect. Tlio upper sleeve la blr.cl; chiffoa Is fairly wide, while tha lower sleeve, In white net, Uko the yoke and frills on the waist, clings to the nun. A smart touch of color is Introduced In the black satin sash. Tha ends nre embroidered In peccock blua nnd gold uud edged wlti a black Jet fringe. A charming skirt drapery and appli cation of the Eastern sash Is shown in Fis,'. '3. The gown Is In taffeta of a deep nuliergluo color, tho deep egg plant (dwde which Is so rich in Its va ryln;,' depths. The sash Is In faded rose embroidered In black; black satin faces the skirt. The d duty waist un der the little bolero Is in two shades of aubergine colored chiffon. This curi ous color called "auberglno" Is very popular in Vaxlu. It is that of the egg plant In Its vai'rus singes of ripeness and unripeness. TNs shae'e used for tf:e model lias a pinkish rose tinge lu omc of the l'giits the chlmmerlng taf feta rejects. Strips and Plsids. now many there were who deemed that. the vogue for plnld and plain ma terial combined would have but a brief life, as' popularity would kill It. Ta.'lor-maiio. cn this order are smarter than ever. Th;3 combination In Its lat est giil.se as. ficwii In t'.ie .French -refte dc tai'.teur, Fig. 4, Is quite ciartulng bgpvyj-ijiyv- I APR- . M 'AN nnd la sufllclently smart to have re ceived the approval of the most ele gantly gowned mondaines. The plaid employed In tho model is la preen and blue with a yellow stripe. Tho back of this model has caused much com ment. It la an Instance shoving th.u In some models the backs of gowns aio moro elaborate dan the fronts. Mote the sweep of the plain green cblli draping, as It emerges from beneatii the little pointed scml-fltllng cost. A novel lden Is portrayed In the taffeta ribbon which Is drawn through t!;e back of the coat and fastened in the front of tho waist In a lurgo smart bow. Stripes and plaids are even wro used than predictions, led us to think they would b3. . Tbey are used for tha trimmings of coats', for the coat itself. t'.ie !vUn:n !. also trnlheroJ Vicso'y, !:i f.uli a v.iiy iis to give the effect of a 'Cjifd put. Two broad p'.c.ts of moire r."U vt the r-'.mo slinde imo annawl over tho hips like deep, flat snsne. V'hcy n:a crospod at ilic kick rnd laft to hang with b'ii; pc'.ntej c-'s v.bich ais finished wiiU silk tasfcls. The. concluding lteiu of t'.'o scheme ciwprisca a smart little Jacket of V.w riclrr, the basque cut shrrv'y nway In the front nnd drawu Into a 'H'lnt lov Vwn ct tho back lieneath a large bow. Viw'.ementh the Jacket v.-as worn the ubiquitous soft little tr:ujpnrent blouse cf tllleul colored nlnon over vellum tintevl lace, the V-shaped decolletage flulshed with deep frills of the filmiest black tulle, and iu the belt was tucke.l a little bouquet of dwp pink rosebuds. Tho little paittulettes, those quaint hand embroidered bits of uiueltn that show four or Ave Inches below a full frilled skirt, are charming; whether they will have much vogue It Is Ini- . possible, at this early dute, to say. It is a radical change lu dress, and al though the Idea of cours Is not new, being a revival of an early Victorian Wo cri tub s!Jj of tho Ath-nfle nru stU! rather relvc.i't tv ivopt sm'h a wholly chafed 7.i5 as this siub'.on ampll;-u.v!3 of the figure, the crir.; skirt, unnucstlona'jly cff'c'.'t". Those II. tie I'l'i''etv.'S ni-o so quaintiy pretty lu the'r O.rlr.'in'.rs t-at fiey do i;u iu any wry sV.".-s cor seusrxilts. Vaty nre vt' it js reccruteiK'ed to bo w.rr. T ic e. dar lvK. for the . we arei" car. tiovs rlt grjuV.r tse than if hrr;:)cred with a jii-aj.i skirt that fiu'.s ti jie aulr's. la Fip. llrr. showing here an en tirely dlfferes: silhouette from the frilled Kiodtl vita which pantalettes are usually associated. Tho gown la in rose tiffeta. The fullness of the silk on the skirt Is quaintly drawn in with a garland of pink roses. From beneath the taffeta falls a superposed flounce of exquisite lace, a gray net foundation woven with silver threads, under the lace and falling a few Inches below, is an underskirt of rose colored chiffon then come the little panta lettes; these are made of the finest of cream lam, encircled around the a-.Vles with a wreath of tiny pink rosebuds. mode, it is old enough to appear novet ! Another distinctive feature ot this for the underskirts. Ono coat reach j ir.i; scarcely to the hips is In red. bltio ! and green Homan rtrlpos. it;- i') i won wii.b a plain blue ciot'a rki. t. An : o(!ur sulphur colored costume lvi:-. tha U.rc.o sailor collar and wide cuffs in '..KU'n and red stripes. On many of ; tha French tallor-mados tho deep j sqii'.ira collar cr t'ae monk's hood H ysfd. The hood", nre finlshca with i heavy passcmontorjo tassels. .. Yor'.o!3e Shell Coir.bs Ara Smart, i We ore not apt to give credit to An idahula f-.r uiucli of "r changi: sar j loria", Inspirations, and yet it is from ! !he somi:o!out-u.vd senorltas of Fev'Ko I ::nd tlw o!!ve tinted coquettes of Q'.Clx, that we hr.vo adopted tho present :i;o l? lof tio high rolling head-dress , v.;M with a spreading tortoiac shell comb : hkfc Is r.ow so much tho voguo. - From them also comes tho pretty tirA". of wearing a rose tucked, over cue. cat. and the graceful mantilla .which Is this season draped, filiam; fashion, peauant from tha bail; of many of our . sleeveless tvcn'nj i or ages, acting as a ovt of framework for the bare shoulders which rise bold ly from the short boSlie beneatV .' To the matndors nnd picadors of tho iladrld hull-iiug we owe. the erase for gilt nud silver trimming which u;i obsessed us for so long now. ui.f ?tho " the Jaunty, bolero nnd broad swathed' iinsh which figures on many of our ne-.v models, also the chenille fringe which trims our more elaborate out of door wraps so plonteously, Is of r.b.-uHitely Spanish origin. It is, moreover, from tho grandee of Granada that we nave filched tho basic Idea of the bug '.i;)o, which I have already mentioned, w'i.ci reaches to the heels and which H swung over one shoulder. This is call ed tho Neapolitan cape by son.T cca toarlcrcs, but if. was piimrrily wo-n by the inish troubacovr who nightly serenaded the iai'y c. '-la hsart en her balcony. The rejuvenation of the ornamental comb, always nn c!T?vtive r.d!i!io:i t the coiffure, has bi 'jrcvs'i; r.bout through tho new xo-ci'iic-' rmen method of arranging tha ' : r,d many cf us are ransacking prast-rrraml-motlier's trunk in the attic for the won derfu! high, broad, carved tortoise she. I comb which spread, fan fashion, from almost the tip of or.e rof-y car to ihe other when she treaded the -measure cf ho stately minuet orn:In;cd through (ho Itogtr de Coverloy a hundred years ,::;.. This is the slmon pure citlcie of Span ish manufacture nnd fcas nn cietancc of form and grace cf lino hard to lind la its spurious cff.-piin?, which is as of i en developed In the dcmi-blonde a Fcrlsian favorite or one cf tho many tones of amber, as in the rarer tortoise. In fact, there seems to be a pridl'.cc t'ou for dark amber over ether sub stances for hair ornaments nt present, and many of the combs r.ud pins ono sees are set with colored scrui-precioaa Jewels to match or harmonise with tho color of the dress wie is wearing. An other shell which Is becoming high In favor for hair ornaments and which Is also reminiscent of the cne time beau ties of the Alcazar is moth-.-r-of-penrl, whose opalescent, changing tints show Bp most beautifully In blue blr.cl; hair, the hair belongin?. however, m-re to the Celt or Latin than to the Saxcn.