The gazette-times., February 19, 1915, HOME AND FARM MAGAZINE SECTION, Page 5, Image 5

HOME AND FARM MAGAZINE SECTION
5
Correct Setting
of Fruit Trees
OME has but to become, a fruit
tree agent, Bays a salesman, In
order to realize what a very
small percentage of the trees set out
every Spring survive, even through
the first season. The nurserymen get
the big end of the blame for these
losses, when It Is more often the fault
of the party who sets out the trees.
Great care must be exercised In
handling trees that are to be planted,
or set out. The packing should not
be removed from around them till
one is ready to set them out or heel
them in, as it takes but a very short
time for exposure to sun and wind
to ruin the roots. It for any reason
the trees have been unpacked or the
packing seems Inefficient, the trees
ma be carefully removed and held
la. Thig Is accomplishd by placing
the trees on a slightly sloping spot,
a shallow trench being dug for the
roots. Place the trees in thin layers
covering them well above the roots'
with moist earth. A thin cloth or
layer of straw over the branches for
the first day will furnish protection
from suddeu exposure to the sun after
, the trees have been confined in the
shade so long.
After Packing Is Removed.
As soon as the trees are removed
from the packing (or the ground If
heeled in), they should be trans
ferred to a vessel of water, to guard
against the roots becoming dry dur
ing the process of setting out.
A common wash tub makes a very
auitable vessel for this purpose, as it
can be carried from place to place.
Or a barrel can be arranged on a sled
and hauled with a team, which af
fords much more room for trees, A
sort of thin mud-paste may be used
in place of the water, and this is fine,
as it not only dampens the roots well
before beiug placed In the ground
but some of the mud will cling to
them and be burled with them at the
time of setting.
The holes into which trees are to
be set, should be of generous dimen
sions and put down to a good depth,
to insure sufficient moisture and am
ple room for root development. The
roots of the trees never should be
bent or doubled up, but should lie
straight their full length.
Pruning New Trees.
In placing the trees in the holes,
the roots should be well pruned,
especially all bruised or broken ones
being removed. The tops of the
trees also should be pruned back be
fore being set, the head and root
system beiug of practically the same
proportions. Leave from four to six
branches, six to 12 inches long, on
apple, plqm and pear. Prune peach
trees back to the second bud.
The trees should be In the ground
an inch er more above the point at
which they grew In the nursery. Fill
the hole about one-third or one-half
full of fine soil; pack It in well
around the tree; pour In from one to
two gallons of water, depending on
the state of the soil. When the
water soaks Into the soil (and not
before) finish filling in around the
tree. Press and smooth this last
layer, to prevent the escape of mois
ture, but do not pack it.
It is important that the trees be
closely watched during the first sea
son after setting out.
Often some branch will begin to
wither and die, and such should be
removed as soon as noticed.
The soil usually settles a little
around the trunk of the trees, and
this space should be filled in, else
great damage will be done by the ex
posure to sun and wind below the
proper point.
A mulch of well-rotted straw or
hay will prove highly beneficial if
placed around the trees shortly after
they are set out, as it will prevent
the escape of moisture, keep down
weeds and act as a fertilizer in pro
moting rapid, thrifty growth.
Give the Trees Room.
The question of how much space
to leave between the trees is one that
occasions much argument. This
should be regulated largely by cir
cumstances. If the trees are to be
kept well pruned back they may be
as near as four yards apart, while
those which are to be allowed more
free growth In the tops should be at
least 20 feet apart. The question of
distance depends entirely upon the
system of training and richness of the
soil.
Thorough cultivation Is necessary
to develop the peach crop as the tree
during the time of bearing requires
extremely large amounts of moisture
and plant food.
Orchard and Garden Notes.'
In applying the spray to low-crow-
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Address
ing trees and bushes, make the ap
plication when the dew is on the
plants.
Take care, of the tree fruits. They
bring lu good money.
If fruit is scarce in your neighbor
hood this year, there Is the tomato.
What makes better preserves?
For those Insects that suck the
juices, such as lice, soapsuds or
kerosene emulsion is the thing. Ap
ply with a spray.
Keeping sheep, swine, or poultry
In the orchard is hard on the codling
moth.
A systematic garden rotation pre
vents many Insect pests-and plant
diseases from getting a foothold.
Fence the orchard hog tight, and
let the hogs eat the windfalls and
wormy apples.
Peach borers are best destroyed by
digging them out. While it is a slow
process, there is really no Other way.
Look over the orchard and see if
there are any suckers on the trees,
and remove them.
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