The Lebanon express., December 15, 1893, Image 7

f
WOMAN AND HER DRESS.
A Torrlbty Cyotanl View f the Puhiou
loi Kb. Comltit Sprint.
No question dm woman it a variable
animal, and how should her patron saint
M other? And vhither, having achieved
certain lueaanre of oleganus. oh.
whither mil sue harry osr Toward
what slough, what quag of nglinem will
it please her to turn our all too willing
feetf Will eh revive the old horrors of
pannier and "draped skirt and the
haled birdcage!1 Who can tell? Her
irresponsibility it devoid of sequence ae
of reaaon. tia intractable as a male and
at ttigbtr at Itias Brongblon'i heroinea
(old style).
At the prweut moment there I much
to rejoioe in The loug. fonndationleaa
aairta, with their graceful, faniike folds,
are both attractive and ooiufortable; and
no pettuaatts were ever mnuh prettier
this aide 01 ttden. Built in many colored
brocadee after the aaiue slim fashion as
the skirts above tbem, frilled with Uute
or Honnoed with their own silken fabric;
lined, too sometimes (bat imperceptibly)
with the hiiest of tine woolens; albeit
most nnumipestuout, they are worthy of
immortal verse.
Unhappily, the tartan abominations,
most odious of patternings. are always
well nigh irrepressible, especially in
respect ol underskirt and stockings; for
there is uotbiug so tasteless as woman
save only tuau man, whom (she avers)
the lives to please. Both petticoat and
stockings should carry oat the oritur
monies of whatever color chord may be
truck in tbe outer toilet, in vest, garni
ture or Headgear If tbe costnuie be nu
mitigated black, why then its urocwlcd
supplement most shiue intrinsically fair
in black and white or black aud cream
One snch radiant eiauiple parades a
woven design ot ooiiveriliuiializixl elder
flowers aud berries, aud is bordered with
several rows of foamy lace. Again with
a cbeslnnt brown gown., broidered lu
eucalyptus green and faint pink (which
colors hannt the bonnet, and therewith
the lapels, collar and ruffs ol the bonis
AVI mantle), tbe ietticuat is overdo
tered with iale pink cbestnnt blossoms
and leaves upon a delicate cream with
ooSee ground
Here tbe shoes, sufficiently stout for
oeldoor wear, are in dark cnsstnnt nrown
leather with plain gold Duckies, while
tbe silk hose, in a little thicker silk than
oouiuiotl. are broidered in dim green and
pink. Again, yon may ruffle it in violet
beiumed aod violet vested black; your
broad velvet bat shall be a parterre of
pale violets, black ostrich and empurpled
bows; your (lowing mantle, in black vel
vet shot with dim gleams of violet, shall
he ostrich bordered, the long, straight
falling folds of your skirt, gathered in
your left hand, shall give but a glimpse
of your pale lilac petticoat liberally
strewn with dark violets and violet bndt,
wben tbe crowumg satisfaction, tbe mens
oonscia recti, shall he yonrs, for you will
know that the completeness of your toi
let la as gmudlich as all real works of art
ninsl be and are
for walking wear o mornings there
are fabrics agreeably rough, touched
with, as it were, a pleasing affectation of
savagery Soft, furry surfaced cloths,
patterned or plain (plain for choice, yet
not objectionable though patterned), in
doll browns, fawns, heathers, grays, etc.
lint here, too, is the trail of the tartan;
howbeit yon "would, alatl it were not so
forever and forever."
Of tbe unpatterned cloths, a gall gray
gown, very plain aud trim, with a long
tab ooat worn over a frilled China silk
thill mistily printed with Japanese ane
mones in gray, amber and white this,
we say, It charming, as la another, a kind
of dull roan, shirted in likewise with an
ashes of roses silk, bearing a dim device
of scattered purple violets. Both have
Bat, down poiutiug girdles clasping in
visibly to left, the first of old Flemish
liver work, the second of hammered cop
per. For the freaked woolens, arabesques,
neither too large nor too distinct, are the
only possible decoration. Flowers or
leaf shapes are obviously inappropriate;
stripes are a weariness, spots an irrita
tion, while chequers delight not any hu
man thing Tbe ideal entigureiuent it
vague in outline, harmonious of tone and
In sue avoidiog bed curiam leas on the
one hand and any impression of poverty
on tbe other. National Observer.
Tbs Woman's University In seotlsnd.
Some fifteen years ago a few ladies
started a small scbeme for tbe higher
education of women and lilasgow uni
versity most generonsly gave the move
ment its full sympathy. After some vt
nasitiides, helped by the personal kind
ness of most of the professors, the scheme
grew till. In lHoU tbe association became
Incorporated as a college nnder the name
of Queen Margaret college, and Mrs
Elder, in ISM. generously gave it a home
by purchasing the boose and grounds of
North Park, most conveniently situated
In the vicinity of tbe university and
Botanic gardens.
She made one condition, however, viz.,
that an adequate endowment -should be
rawed. This was acwrdiugly attempted,
and a large turn was gathered by sub-
scription from among the richer niein
tiers of the commimity But, with the
iiinsentof all mtnrosteil, part of this sum
was nsed thoroughly to tit tbe college
with all the necessary aids to teaching
in all branches, and nowom .'Hi students
nave the choice of a full cun icnlnm in
arts, sciences and medicine i lie statf be
ing a highly qualified one indeed, in
several Instances identical with that of
the nnlversity
Veen Margaret is the solitary college
for women in Scotland really on the lines
of a university, and leading the students
to the university degrees as soon aa then
are thrown open. Uirla from all parts.
remote counties in England, small towns
in Ireland, as well as many parts of Scot
land are to be met within the halls, fit
ting themselves for various careers in
life, as teachers, medical women, nurses,
snd last, but certainly not least, for that
sphere of general usefulness which falls
to the lot of most women, and for which
no education can be too wide or too
thorough.
As before mentioned, Queen Margaret
college hat yet to complete its endow
ment, and a movement it being inaugu
rated among all classes to briug this
snout by means of a bazaar, to be held
lien November in Ulasgow. Bazaars
nay not lie ideal means of raising money
bnt they hare this advantage, that they
may enable all to help according to their
means, and it is to be hoped that women
in England, Scotland and Ireland may
send their quota to the college which is
now offering such benefits to so many
and which requires only to be known to
confer tbem on many more. London
Queen
Kntlia.lMtle Veiwar Alumiua.
The parlors and ballroom of tbe Hotel
Brunswick were tilled Saturday with
pretty girls of the Vassar Alumnae asso
ciation. Those same room see many
gay gatherings portly "gent lemen farm
era" of the New York Farmers' club,
jolly members of tbe Coaching clnb. and
all sorts of entertainments to tbe great
and good, but energetic little ''Abe
Uodchaml. who looks after that sort of
thing, said that he didn't remember ever
having heard so much musical feminine
laughter bubbling through tbe hotel
and be was certain he hadn't seen so
i many pretty girls since be took off kilts.
There were 150 of them enough to
insure the eternal prosperity of a sum
I mer resort and they all seemed to en
j thnataxtic about tbeir alma mater and
to energetic in the transaction of the
association's business, and withal to
: bappy and athletic, that it was a very
strong argument in favor of tjie higher
education of women Business was at
tended to first They held two business
meetings, one for the general associa
tion. In which the Chicago. Button and
Washington branches sent delegates,
and one for the New York branch, and
it was not until those were over that
. luncheou was served
There was an informal discussion of
; tbe qnntation. "Shall women have tbe
j tame wages as men for performing the
I tame work? in which Mrs. Elizabeth
I Howe, of Boston, and Mrs Ellen Rich
ard, of tbe Massachusetts Institute of
Technology, took a prominent part. The
immediate outcome of the discussion
was tbe passage of a resolution to in
crease the Mane Mitchell fund, the in
come of which supports the chair of
astronomy from $40,000 to $50,000.
thereby making the salary of the astro
nomical professor equal to that paid to
men in the great nuiversitiea. Of the
fM.OU0.$lV.U0U is still to be raised mostly
by subscription. New York Recorder.
Bu.in.Mi Training snd Motherhood.
At tbe February meeting of Sorosis in
New York tbe question. "Should wom
an's training for a business career take
into consideration that sbe may become
a wife and mother?' was discussed by
Mrs Ada M. Brown, chairman of the
day, as follows:
Woman's function in the world it de
termined by nature she it made to be
tbe mother of the race. Accepting the
scientific fact, it does not follow that
motherhood absorbs all her energies
Amelia ban- has been the mother of fif
teen children, yet tier books are accepted
by publishers and readers. Train a girl
as we will we cannot convert her into a
mere sexless machine. Physiologically
we must take into consideration that she
may become a wife and mother, though
practically we Ignore it. It is a mistake,
then, to train girls precisely like boys.
No true womanly woman wishes to be a
man, she it quite satisfied to be a good
specimen of her own sex,
Women are handicapped in the race
of life by having to fit themselves for
two careers primarily, for a trade or
profession, contingently, for the home
and family that may come. Women
Undents or wage earners must sew,
cook, make and mend, wash their band
kerchiefs and take infinite pains to look
pretty to attract tbe men. How many
men students make their own trousers?
The same qualities which make a
successful business woman are necessary
in a good wife promptness, punctuali
ty, method and exactness. In this age
has been evolved a woman with equal
powers for being and doing, with wom
anly Instincts and masculine skill.
Working Girl and Housework.
At a recent meeting of tbe Columbian
Housekeepers association a teacher gave
a report from the Jewish Manual Train
ing school a school which has (if a tree
be judged by its fruit Instead of blos
soms) marejsnccesafslly than any other
oouqnered this question of industrial
education for poorest classes, bus told
ns that from the large classes of girls
who took the course of sewing none
could he found willing to go to the homes
of their benefactor and perform their
housework. Their plea was that they
wanted their evenings to themselves.
Yet those same girls wben they left the
school and found clerkships, working
for t2.n0 or f-1 a week, would come to
evening classes from the stores often
not even waiting for their suppers and
spend their evenings in earnest work.
Evidently frivolity or a wish for dissi
pation was not the foundation of tbeir
objection to housework. The explana
tion may be found in the desire for re
laxation from restraint or a wish for per
sonal freedom that is inherent in human
nature, and which is a necessity for con
tinned effective service; bat a more po
tent reason, I believe, it that they were
not trained for housework, except, per
haps, to look down on it and to do as
little as possible of such degrading work.
Chicago Tribune.
The Kra of Bit Girls.
This it the era of the heavyweight
athletic young woman, who walks
abroad with the swinging tread of a
penadier. -shoulders erect, chest ex
panded and bead held high, a young
woman who thinks nothing of a ten
mile walk, and is altogether a new type
of American independence.
Sbe is the evolution of the modern col
lege. - Higher education has done it all,
and before we know it we shall have
raised a race of amazons, and the girls
of Laselle and Wellesley will be chal
lenging the boys of Yale and Harvard
in rowing and racing and football ath
letics. Professor Bragdon, of Laselle semi
nary, it authority for these facta: Since
the opening of the seminary in Septem
ber np to date forty-two young women
have gained nine pounds or over; three,
fourteen each; two, sixteen; one, nine
teen; one, twenty; one, twenty-two, and
the record breaker has gained twenty
three pounds in a little over four months.
The featherweight of tbem all weighs
eigbty-oue pounds, the heaviest plump
187, and they are the healthiest set of
girls in all New England.
So much for calisthenics, athletics,
physiology and hygiene in the curricu
lum of higher education, for Laselle
specializes health and avoirdupois even
above Ureek and Latin as important
points of culture. It is to Laselle we
must look to controvert all lingering
prejudice of the debilitating effects of
higher education. Boston Post
A Baroune's Romantic Life.
Very romantic was the story of the
Baroune de Charette, the mother of tbe
well known general who has just died
after a few days' illness at the Chateau
de la Contrie. in the department of the
Loire Inferieiire, at the advanced age of
eighty Sbe and her elder sister, tbe
Princess de Lncinge. were the daughters
of tbe Due de Berry and Mrs. Brown.
While the duke was expiring after the
stab inflicted on him by his assassin,
Louvel. as he was leaving the opera on
Feb. 18, 1830. he recommended tbe two
girls to the care of the duchesse and the
king, who took charge of them.
The elder, who afterward married
the Prince de Lncinge, was created
Comtesse d Issonduu, and the younger,
wbo has just died, received tbe title of
Comtesse de Vierzon. The Baron de
Charette. whom she married, played a
prominent part daring the rising in the
Vendee. PariB Cor. London Telegraph.
Model Purchases by Bloh People.
Mrs. Leland Stanford, wife of the mil
lionaire senator from California, recent
ly called at a Washington carpet store
and asked to be shown something that
would be suitable for ber dining room.
"Would you like a Wilton or a mo
quette?" asked the clerk.
"Show me some tapestries that sell for
a dollar a yard." replied the millionaire's
wife.
Mrs. Philip H. Sheridan bat laid down
ingrain carpets in all her chambers, and
tbe daughter of one of the rich Philadel
phia Urexels has nothing bat ingrain car
pets in her halls. Many Washington
parlors are covered with tilling in carpet,
which sells for ninety cents a yard, but
costly rugs are laid on it here and there
Washington Cor. Cleveland Leader.
Chicago Women to Glvs a Grand Ball.
The closing feature of the dedicatory
ceremonies in connection with the com
pletion of the exposition it to be a mag
nificent ball. This will be held Oct. 13.
18112. at the Auditorium. The patron
esses already decided upon are: Mrs.
Potter Palmer, Mrs. George L. Dunlap.
Mrs. George M. Pullman, Mrs. Nelson
A. MileB, Mrs. W. W. Kimball, Mrs. A.
C. McClurg, Mrs. Heaton Owlsley, Mrs.
Arthur Caton, Mrs. Emmons Blaine,
Mrs. William Armour, Mrs. Hobart C.
Taylor, Mrs. Robert W. Patterson, Jr.
Cbicago Woman's Journal
The great health dress reform move
ment is moving with power in the city
of Baltimore, and at Baltimore is fa
mous for its pretty women, there could
not be a better place for tbe movement
to move in,
Dr. Caroline Bertillon has been ap
pointed visiting physician to the Lycee
Racine, the most important college for
girls in Paris. It it the first appoint
ment of the kind made.
Tbe Illinois woman's exposition board
has decided to offer a prize of twenty
five dollars for the beet design for a seal
for tbe board. Competition i limited to
Illinois women.
THE SUMMER YOUNG MAN.
Oh, snmnror girl, summer girl, blushing sod
sweet.
Our bosoms with rapture you thrill.
And nature herself grows more balm? to greet
Your coming to seaside or Itlll.
But. faireHt and rarest of beauty's domain,
'Tit time that another began
Home notice to gain in a lyrical vein,
So bere'i to the summer young man!
For who has inspired all those delicate furls
That ravish our eyes as we gate.
That garment's Light swirls and thsss soft
Huffy curls
That flutter snd charm snd amaze?
Is It not for tbe youth wbo comes out for a
week
That these dainty illusions you plan
Come, lift up those lashes, my fair out, and
speak
Is it not for the summer youog manf
Whene'er we are singing a summer girl song.
Left think of the credit that's due
To the masculine person for whom she may
long
To be gentle and lovely to view.
Be may be unworthy tucb treasure to And.
Hit features unpleasant to scan.
Yet he It a boon, you'll admit, to mankind
6o here's to the ssmmer young maul
-Washington Star.
Not a Nibble!
"Hello." he called to an acquaintance
whom be had not seen for two or three
weeks; "been away?"
"Yes."
"Take your fishing tackle alongf"
"Yes." '
- "Have a good time?"
"Yes."
"That's nice, Wbere'd you go?"
"Up north."
"What was the weight of your largest
fishr"
"Didn't catch any."
"Was the wind wrongf"
"No."
"Too early or too late in the Beasonf" .
"No."
"Lose all your taekle before you got
there?"
"No."
"You got a few bites?"
"Not a bite."
"Other fellows caught fish up there?"
"No, notalish."
"Uml That's queer! Why didn't you
catch any flsh?"
"Because 1 was in the pine woods, 15
miles from tbe nearest creek. In fact, the
well at the hotel was almost dry."
"But you you had a few nibbles?" per
sisted the man.
"No, 1 didn't have my tackle out at all. 11
"Humph) Fifteen miles from the near
est fish?"
"Yes."
"Well, there are some mighty queer peo
ple in this world! Not even a nibble! Good
day, sir" Detroit Free Press.
No Luck.
Two women were discussing the ques
tion of tips to waiters in a cafe the other
day, ooe maintaining that the wages of
waiters were pay enough and wondering
how much the men got in fees. Tbeir
waiter, a very good oatured colored man.
stood by, and the woman said;
"I'm going to ask him." So she said to
him:
"Say, John, how much do you men get a
day in fees?"
The reply came at once;
"See that boy over there? Well, he makes
a pile. He has luck, he has. Always gets
big fees. He gets men to his table, i nev
er has no luck. 1 always has women."
Boston Herald.
Impatient.
Apropos of the difficulty even their fair
owners experience in locating ladieB' pock
ets an English paper tells a story of a lady
who. arrayed in a new frock, took a han
som the other day aud on alighting hunted
vainly for the entrance to the pocket where
she bad conlidingly placed her purse. The
quest was so unduly prolonged that at last
her charioteer, who was not a man of re
(inement, remarked fioni his perch, "Now.
then, marm, when you've quite done
a-scratchin of your back will you pay me
my fare?" Argonaut.
Hit Inspiration Checked.
"Great Scott!" exclaimed the worried
looking man with a tooth marked lead
pencil, "can't you keep that baby quiet?"
"I'm doing my best," answered his wife.
"He's only laughing."
"1 can't help that. It's noise. And I've
got to nuish this poem about 'What Our
Darling Prattler Says' for The Cherub's
Own before night or they won't use it."
Washington Star.
Mr. Sappy Do you like menr
She1 don'tknow. You might bring one
around some evening. Brooklyn Life.
Beady Appreciation.
Guide 1 have brought you to this point,
miss, in order that your first view of the
great Manufactures building may enable
magnificent, yet simple, grandeur.
Young Woman (in wheeled chair) Oh,
isn't It nice) Chicago Tribune.
Fitting.
"I want to get a professional nurse," said
the man whose wife rather enjoy being ill.
"What fort" asked bis friend, the doctor.
"For a professional invalid," said the
mail, with a wan, faraway smile. Vogue.
Ad Iniuparablj Fatal Otwucl.
"I don't believe the detective wilt oaten
him." .-.-"WnyDOtr"
"Tfiev claim to have a clew, "Truth.
No Barm to Set.
The Children's Kyea. .
The constantly increasing nearsighted
new among school children, and the very
general need and use of glasses, ought to
suggest to ui whether or not we are suffici
ently careful of the conditions affecting
the even of the young. Do we see to it
that the books they read and thorn they
study are of a clear and large type, re
quiring no straining or forcing of the vis
ion; and do we encourage a large and open
script for their handwriting? Do we see
to it that our school houses are built with
a view to the falling of tbe light in the
right way for the children's safety!
Do we have the lights at home so regu
lated that no blaze shall produce blindness
and no dimness make sight difficult f Do
we make sure that the child holds his book
at the distance which gives a correct focus,
that he holds his body property in relation
to his book or work, that he looks off fre
quently, thus changing the character of
the demand on the eye, aud that he Is not
allowed to continue long in any effort re
quiring the too intent use of his eyosf
Do we keep ourselves on the lookout, too,
tor the first Indication of feebleness or
strain, in order that artificial aids may be
resorted to In season to prevent any posi
tive evtlf That precaution in all these di
rections is wise is evident from the fact, if
we look for it, that in those living what
might be called the natural life that-is,
without books or fine work there is very
little trouble with the eyes where the con
ditions of good bodily health otherwise are
maintained. Harper's Bazar.
For Girls Who Wish to Study Art. .
A woman most familiar witn tbe advan
tages offered to girl art students in both
Paris and New York advises those young
persons whose motto is "Art for money's
sake" to do their studying in America.
Even for those with higher motives she be
lieves that almost as good advantages are
to be had at home. "There is no pot boil
ing work to be had at Paris," she says,
"and even if there were American girls
could not compete with the trained French
artist artisans. There are no pupils to be
had for obvious reasons. In America there
are pupils to be had everywhere, and there
is pot boiling art work galore for any girl
or woman with pluck enough to strike out
for herself, and to read the newspapers,
advertisements, art notes and labor Inter
est columns.
"It is not absolutely necessary that every
girl who studies art should do so wiih the
idea of becoming an easel artist.- It is just
as socially respectable to be a successful
artist artisan, making two thousand a
year, as to sell pictures to the extent of
five hundred and scheme to get yourself
Invited to dinner to make out your liveli
hood. I do not hesitate to say that, with
its various technical art schools, New York
offers superior advantages over Paris for
women for the study of applied art that
is, art of a remunerative sort out of which
good livelihoods may be earned by wom
en." New York Post
How to Set a Table.
Breakfast being the plainest meal of the
day, the arrangement of the table should
alwayB be simple. The cloth should be
spotless. At each person's seat place a
knife, fork, teaspoon or dessertspoon, tum
bler and napkin, and if fresh fruit is to be
served, a linger bowl, if there be no serv
ant. If you have a waitress, she will place
the finger bowls on as you finish with the
fruit If fresh fruit be served there must
also be placed at each seat a fruit knife and
plate. The knives and spoons should be
placed at tbe right and the forks and nap
kins at the left, the tumblers to be at the
point of the knives. There should be
space between tbe knife and fork for a
breakfast plate.
Have the dish of fruit in the center of the
table. Have atray cloth at each end of the
table. Spread little butter plates at the
top of each plate. If individual salt and
pepper bottles be used, place them at the
side of each plate. If largeones place them
at the corner of the table. Put four table
spoons on the table, either in two corners
or beside the dishes that they wilt be used
in serving. Put thecarving knife and fork
at tbe head of the table, and the cups and
saucers, sugar and cream, coffeepot, hot
water bowl, etc., and the mush dishes at
the other end. St. Louis Republic
Having Gravy Handy,
The matter of having gravy ready when
wanted Is a very important part of the
household economy, and many a dish
which otherwise might be "flat, stale and
unprofitable," is made nutritious and pal
atable by the addition of half a cup of
strong gravy. Make your cook keep all
the scrapings of gravy from the beef
steaks or any made gravy; suason well
with salt and pepper and keep in the re
frigerator, It will always be wanted in
the next day's cooking.
If you have no gravy ready when you
want It, you can always make it by taking
some bones of cooked meat, cracking them
and putting them In a saucepan with any
bits of meat or gristle. Cover them with
cold water and stew slowly for two hours
and you will have a cupful of good gravy.
This should be done daily with the bones
aud bits of meat "left over." New Eug
laud Homestead,
A Ue for Old Mosquito Netting.
A good suggestion is a use for mosquito
netting after it has doueduty on bars or as
bed canopy. Of it excellent wash and dish
cloths may be made. The netting should
be folded several times, six or eight at
least, aud the square made considerably
larger than desired, as tbe material shrinks
a great deal. The thicknesses are then to
be quilted in long stitches and at wide In
tervals with white darning cotton, the
edges turned iu, where they are not folded,
and the article is ready, If the netting is
colored, toss the cloths into the boiler be
fore using and boil out the dye, The wear
ing quality of these netting cloths is al
most unexcelled, while the loose mesh
makes them very satisfactory to use. Her
Point of View in New York Times.
f
fthould Yon Feel Badly.
Any one whose nerve force Is deficient
and blood impoverished may take, with
benefit, the yolk of an egg, well beaten up
in aglaas of milk, each morning. The
iron and phospborio compounds are tn
ucn ounujiiioa Ha w u rwauuy tvwiiun-
1 . I .... ... .1.1 L II 1..
tateu ny tut aysum, aituuugu awau
amount. ---New York JouxuaL j
,'!;iv,..Wj(.,ivJ C,tM'-t-". t if-''
I