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About The Lebanon express. (Lebanon, Linn County, Or.) 1887-1898 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 22, 1893)
) r, '. L. LITERARY WOMEN WHO DRESS WELL. Writer. Itnaniit tll AMrrtinn That Lit erature Make. TlHtro OareleM. Thorn wan a inmsting in the Woman's Trow club the other day, and naturally the question of woman's drewicaine np. One of the ladies complained that some one else had miKallantly said that wom en writers as a rule were the worst dressed women in the world I The ap pearance of the ladies present, however, proved that tile contrary was true. There was a long discussion, of course informally, upon the subject by a few members, who sat in one corner of the club room uud sipmd tea, A dashing little blond, who is well known on Newspaper row, tossed her pretty head, and then surveyed her own pretty gown with a satislied sort of air. A woman who has the face and form of a Juno de clined to even consider the subject, while all the others sneered at. the writer of the rude paragraph, looked at them selves complacently, sipied their tcaand chattered! To be perfectly frnnk, however, women who muke a living by their pens are, us a rule, pretty and well dressed. Take for example Mrs. FranceB Hodgson Bur nett. The author of "Little Lord Faunt leroy" has sttiierb taste in dressing. Her gowns are original uud depart in style from the conventional, but they become her, and that is the true art of dressing. 1 saw her once in a gown that was some tiling between a Mother Hubbard and a Greek tunic, Not every wmnnn could wear it, but on her it was a dream of beautiful djaiwry. Klla Wheeler Wilcox never wears a tailor niude suit, but mvariauly enrobes herself in a loose, flowing gown, tltat gracefully drug's her short, plump fig ure. At the ocra I have seen her wear a V shaped corsage, cut moderately low at the neck, uud looking better drawed than the wives of many millionaires in the surrounding boxes. Take Elita Proctor Otis, who is as clever a writer as sba is uu actress. No one has ever seen her unless she was uttired in the most becoming of costumes. She is a remark ably handsome womau, and she is too wle, and too busy ulso, to sind much time ou dress, but her gowns ure the envy of all her women friends. Her dressmaker is a jewel indeed. Mine. Clara Lanza has excellent judgment, espwlally iu dressing. She wears ex quisite dresses. Jennie June (Mrs. Croly) is not much on dress, but that may be because Bhe has arrived at that age when a plain gown becomes her best. Laura Daiutry has a highly (esthetic way of costuming herself that may look a little queer at first, but after you come to knuw her you get used to her innovations in dress and cannot imagine her as ever dressing differently. Mrs. Wotmore, nee Hisluud, is uoled for her modest and becoming way of dressing. She is beautiful and everything she wears bus an artistic set ling that only enhances her good looks. Amelie Hives Chaulur is inclined to drape in flowing rubes, but she knows how to dress well. Mrs. Custer, widow of the gallant Custer, is certainly neat in dress! Mrs. Serruno, who translated Marie Bashkirtseff a diary, has a French chic in dressing that is decidedly hand some: Mrs, Louise Chandler Moulton is incomparable in evening uttire, and Mrs. Frank Leslie Wilde is noted for her su perb gowns. There are few better dressed women in New York than "Bab." Mrs. Annie Jeuness Miller is noted for her tine cos tumes. Miss Mary F. Seymour always dreBses richly and iu good taste. Mrs. Julia Hayes Percy is as dashing and well dressed as any womuu need care to be, Mrs. Fannie B. Merrill's gowns are of rich material and tit perfectly. There are others, too a long list, in deedthat would include Laura (iid dings, Mrs. Maude Howe Elliott, Mrs. A. D. T, Whitney, Sarah Ornie Jewott, MrB. Burtou Harrison, tiie widow of Admiral Dahlgren, Miss Molly Elliott Seawell, Mrs. Alexander, Margaret Sang ster, Julia Mugruder, uud well, others too numerous to meutiou. The ladies here named not only dress well, but they are without exception as beautiful as they are talented. Foster Coates in New York Mail and Express. Cat.' Tails for Biiniiet Deuuriitlml. Parallel's in the social procession on upper Broadway were recently over whelmed at the sight of a confection of a bonnet worn by a demure little blond who seemed to experience no embarrass ment at the amount of uttentiou she was attracting. Iu every particular but one the bonnet was u regulation article that 1)11 out of every 100 men or women would have passed by without deeming it es pecially worth of attention. But hanging over the front lap, and twisted around under a small hunch of violets, was a cat's tail. There was no mistaking the nature of the article, for thero it hung, a sinister reminder of the direful deed committed at midnight by a bootjack in the hands of an irate man whose slumbers had perhaps been awak ened by the yeowliug of this midnight marauder. A man was moved by the tightof (bis strange bit of ornamenta tion to inquire of one of New York's most fashionable milliners if the reign ing decorations for women's head cover ing during the winter would be feline caudal appendages. The lady, without giving any indica tion of surprise, replied in i ,ie affirma tive. She said that in Lond,. i and Paris the demand for cat's tails to be need for ornamental purposes is spreading to an alarming extent. Most of the recent importations of bonnets have a cat's tail or two in variegated colors attached in ome conspicuous place. It therefore behooves the native feline to do less meandering after nightfalL With commercial value placed upon each tail the small boy will be actuated by a more commendable motive than amusement in disposing of the purring feline. New York Mail and Express, The Clothing of Bablsi, Is it possible that women who know how to clothe their babies and little chil dren sensibly always keep thera at home, while those who haven't a particle of sense in this matter insist npon parading them in public places? It often seems to the Listener that this is the case. The majority of little children that one sees npon the street are either overclad or nuderclad. Sometimes one meets the two extremes close together. Saturday, at a railroad station, the Listener saw a half way elderly woman, who looked as if the possession of a child were a new thing to her, who had in her lap a tiny baby not more than two months old. The child was weighted down with a flannel skirt deeply embroidered, a white skirt heavily trimmed and tucked, a white dress with lace and tucks, all a yard long or more, and over these a long cloak and cape, both embroidered. The effect of the baby's tiny head, 11 bout as big as an apple, projecting from this great mass and length of draperies, would have been irresistibly comical if it had not been for the thought of the snffocating burden that the poor infant was under. Close by, in the lap of an other woman, was the antithesis of this arrangement, it was a baby in Bhort clothes scantily clad, with short stock ings, and its bare legs were blue with cold. There was no sign that it was in sufficiently clad from poverty. In the last few days the Listener has seen women who wear fur cajies leading little girls dressed in thiu white dresses, BoBton Transcript. The Uevlval nf Ilia Tea Uuwii. There is evidence of a return to popu larity of the tea gown. So long as the tea gown iB confined to the uses of its existence it is comfortable, suitable and effective. When it aspires to the dignity of a dinner costume, how ever, or descends to the neglige of a uioriiiug wrapper, it is immediately out of place: it is too fine for the latter and not formal enough for the former. After its introduction in London drawing rooms a few years ago as an easy toilet tietween driving and dining, it soon flaunted its dainty fripperies on this side the Atlantic. On American Boil it began under va rious flimsy disguises to assist at recep tions, drums and diuuers. Everybody had a tea gown. Four cent chalhe ones were worn with curl papers in the tene ments uud costly imported morsels actu ally graced (!) ballrooms. Naturally the reaction came in due time. Lust year the almost severely simple close fitting gowns worn by host esses and those assisting them on "at home" days were a marked feature of such functions. The tea gown was put so resolutely aside that it was not even tolerated. Out of tins flood and ebb, however, we are to have tea gowns to be used as such, but we are not to have tea gowns iu the combination role to be worn at any time. Her Point of View in New York Times. Tlie ntmiey Queetloii In 8orisl. Sorosis is divided into opposing fac tions now concerning the financial af fairs of the club. Sorosis was founded as an intellectual rather than a social or ganization, and the original members see signs of decadence in the fact that the married elemeut has crept iu uud is making its invidious influence felt. The most marked expression of this is the re cent removal of the club from the ban queting hull at Delinonico's, which has been gratuitously ut their service for nearly a quarter of a century, to the new Sherry ballroom, where each meet ing will be held at an expense of $100. The factions meet at the coming busi ness session upon the question of dou bling the entrance fee and the yearly dues as well. The leaders of the literary element, comprising the most valuable women of the club, are opposed to the new measure on the ground that money shall not be made the teBt requisite of membership, and that the increase m fees will exclude the very women most desirable and valuable as members, as unfortunately money and bruins are in most cases hopelessly divorced. New York Sun. Buttons fur Oruaniuuts. Tho tailors and modistes are nsiug very large buttons, but of tener us orna ments than means of fastening. A tight fitting baBque bodice of rich greeu cloth is cut from the neck to far below the hilia in one length. On each side of the invisible double breasted opening are sown very large buttons, six on each. The sleeves to the elbow are green vel vet. The cuffs, collar, and deep flap pockets are green and gold brocade. Among the new buttons are those show ing ooptes o.f old coins of Henry VII, 7 Queen "Elizabeth and William the Con qneror's day. There are also reproduc tions of old Paris guild medals and me dallions in copper amalgam and mixed gold and bronze; also St. Nicholas pmks are cut on Paris buttons designed for Louis XVI coats. Silver and gold but tons are of dull effect and are used with garnitures, to which they correspond. The new reds and browns of fashion have their counterparts of oolor in shaded buttons made of bronze metal. New York Post. Seventy Years Old and 81111 Actinic. There are some remarkable and charm ing old ladies on the stage, and not the least remarkable and charming is Mrs. (Jilbert, whose seventieth birthday was celebrated in London a few days ago by a notable dinner given at the Savoy hotel. Some thirty persons were pres ent, including the venerable Mrs. Keeley, who has seen four score years and ten; Mrs. Mellon, who, as Miss Woolgar, was a toast among the admirers of the stage of a generation now passed away; Mrs. Bancroft, Mrs. Labouchere, Ada Rehan and Genevieve Ward, to represent Mrs. Gilbert's sisters of the stage. Mrs. Gilbert was a daughter of Hart ley, at one time editor of the London Morning Post, and when he lost his for tune she learned to dance as a ballerina, Paul Taglioni being her instructor. She came to this country with her husband in 1849, but it waB not nntil 1857 thai she took to acting in speaking parts, Her New York debut was made under the management of Mrs. John Wood, who is now managing the Court theater in London, and is herself a remaikable old lady. San Francisco Argonaut. Pretty Decorations at a Fair. The season of fairs and bazaars is upon ns. A beautiful church fair held last week had the stalls in padoga shape. The tops were burnished gold; they were open all around and beautifully fes tooned with cheesecloth and smilax, each one taking a different color. The effect was very handsome. A second fair had for a centerpiece in the circulai hall a Maypole wound with white rib bons, and from the silvered top long widths of white cheesecloth wreathed with simlax radiated to all the booths, which, in a large circle, went around the hall. Shorter lengths reached to the circling table directly about the pole, which, all white and green, was tended by six young girls dressed in white and green and selling bonbons and flowers. The other booths took different com binations, one of blue and silver for the sale of dolls being much admired. New York Letter. A Daughter of the Kevolutlou. MrB. Flora Adams Darling, head of the new Daughters of the Revolution, is a slight, blond woman, who stoops s little under the widow's veil siie alwaye wears, and whose deafness causes her to give an attention to any one who ad dresses her that looks very gracious and is always flattering till one finds out its reiiNon. She is the widow of a Confed erate general, and has published a vol ume of her war experience, containing an account of the battle of Chicka uianga, which account General Grant considered the best he had ever read. She has been foryearsasuccessful news paper womau. Her niece, Florence Adams, is the youngest Daughter of the Revolution aud has ou more than one occasion read her aunt's addresses to the assembled chapters. New York Press. Good Health of the (Jtieeu. The queen, it is said, has not been in such good spirits for years in fact, ac cording to one more or less high author ity, one of the ladies at court expects her "to be us girlish as the youngest of us." I do not, of course, know how girlish "the youugest of us" may be, but the in terest which her majesty has lately taken in dramatic entertainments is, perhaps, a renewal of her youth. It is just possible that, in spite of her abhor rence of Londou, she may yet appear in the royal box at the Lyceum or the Hay- market theater while she is on the sunny side or eighty. Loudon Figaro. A Nuw Idea In Fancy Wurk. A new idea, in the way of fancy work is to have patterns stamped solidly in indelible colors. This is very pretty on white linen, aud gives a great deal of effect for very little work, as the out lines ouly require to be embroidered. A running blue ribbon pattern in indelible blue dye, outlined with silk of the same shade, is a charming oue. The fast dyes urea new invention, and will without doubt become popular for many things in the way of decoration. New York Tribune. A Kluuuii liurucsa. An Euglish notion of the moment is to tie a six iuch sash ribbon just below the waist, crossing it at the back and bring ing it around to the front just below the bust, to filially tie behind iu a flat bow between the shoulders and reach in long ends to the hem of the dress. Of course, this harness arrangement is used to re lieve au untrimmed bodice and skirt. Sometimes tho ribbons have beaded fringes at the euds. They should be of stiff satin. Exchange. Much persuasion has been brought to bear on Miss Sophie G. Hayden, who drew the auueessful dosigu of the Wo man's building at the World's fair, to induce her to remain in charge, but she is too fond of Boston to leave it. She is still a very young woman and has a most promising future as an architect. j MASSACHUSETTS' NEW BISHOP. I A Member of One of the Bent Families of tho State. Rev. William Lawrence, S. T. D the successor of Phillips Brooks as bishop of the Episcopalian diocese of Massachusetts, has been dean of the theological school of his church at Cambridge for the past four years and a professor in the same institu- REV. WILLIAM LAWRENCE, S. T. D. tion for 10 years. He is of one of the best families of Massachusetts and himself a Dative of the state. His grandfather was one of the founders of the city of Lawrence, and the city was named in his honor. It was at Grace church in Lawrence that the bishop elect officiated as rector for several years after bis graduation from the Cam bridge theological school, and there was sincere sorrow among his congregation when he resigned to take the post of vice dean and professor of homiletics and pastor al care at his alma mater. He became dean in 1889 on the death of Dean Gray, retain ing his professorship. The school has pros pered under his care and largely because of his endeavors. Dean Lawrence is about 43 years of age and is one of a family of seven brothers and sisters. He graduated at Harvard in the famous class of 1871 and afterward prose cuted his theological studies at the Episco pal schools at Andover and Philadelphia, taking his last year at Cambridge in 1876. He married a granddaughter of Bishop Parker, and they have three daughters and one son. The family lives at the deanery of the theological school and has a summer house at Bar Harbor. The election of Dean Lawrence Is essen tially a victory for the broad churchmen, and it is expected t hat he will conduct the affairs of his diocese on the hues laid down by the late Bishop Brooks during his short but brilliant episcopate. There was con siderable discussion at the convention about the insufficiency of the bishop's sal ary, which is not a stated amount, but the income, whatever it may be, of the episco pal fund, which amounts to nearly $140,000. The income last year was $7,000. Some vig orous endeavors will be made to increase the fund. A Homily uu Dancing. That the german should be so universal ly popular is not surprising, for it is de cidedly the moht varied of all parlor dances, combining quadrille figures with the fascination or the waltz a deux temps. Its capabilities tor grace are large, though not often carried out. indeed, the utter want of this element, particularly amoog men, Is painfully observable, yet Ameri cans enjoy a Kuropeau reputation for the excellence of their dancing. Compared with Englishmen, who are the most awkward of their sex, they are fauns; yet there is scarcely a more ungain ly sight than a rn.au iu a dress suit, spin ning around like a teetotum, frantically dragging a mass of tulle about with him, apparently trying to get from one end of the room to the other by the most circui tous route, aud bringing up suddenly against a wall or a man with another mass of tulle, both parties rather the worse for the collision, panting as though they had the hydrophobia, aud red enough in the face to lie victims of apoplexy. The long strides men take in the galop are quite wonderful, the attitude assumed being very like that taken by frogs plunging into water. They seem vainly trying to "dou ble" the expanse of drapery which clings to them so fondly. As danciug is prosecuted, there should be no spectators, for to them the scene is certainly extraordinary. A delightful aud natural amusement is, in its present con dition, shorn of charms. Are days of grace never to return? Is the poetry of motion to be confined to KUslers and Taglioni!1 How refreshing it would be could the dig uilied yet beautiful dances of Spain he grafted on to our gnucherie as balls would be wort li looking at and dancing one of the tine arts. The dancer would then be physically improved by ins amuse ment, instead of becoming more awkward by an awkward perfonuance.-Kttte field's Washington. A Gallant Colonel. Here is a true story on the Hon. Turn Clifton. Wheu he was in Atlanta the other day he went with a friend to a res taurant for diuner. They lingered over their duck aud celery for three-quarters of au hour. The urbane "war horse" from Chatham had noticed a lady sitting quiet ly at a table when he entered, aud from time to time as he glanced iu her direction observed that she had not been served. Finally he grew very impatient, aud, call iug a waiter, sharply reprimanded him for not bringing the lady's dinner. "What, dat lady, kuruel!" "Yes, you ought, to be discharged. She has been sitting there au hour aud has not had a Single thing to eat." "Haw, haw, kurnel. Dat lady is the cashier." Atlanta Constitution. At a Lawyeri Banquet. At the banquet of the Virginia Bar as sociation, the wine being slow in mate rializing, a certain judge obtained a bot tle with great difficulty. Proud of his success he exclaimed: "Gentlemen, my strong right arm secured this champagne. I acquired it by feudal tenure." "Well," remarked a brother lawyer as he poured out a copious draft, "we will soon hold it in free and common (BQcage)," Green Bag, nuw a ling ue&wiea serpmit. For over a year there have been ru mors regarding tho existence of a large serpent at Lake Kenosha, three miles west of Dan bury, but every one who heard the story received it with in credulity. But the rumor grew in spite of skepticism, aud the thoughtless wera forced finally to admit that perhaps there was something in it. Friday Edward M, Baldwin and George- Downs were fishing in the lake. Both Are elderly business men and opposed to notoriety in every way. They were en gaged in hauling in fish, when suddenly to the west of them a huge head poked itself out of the water and contemplated the fishermen. This was thirty feet away from their boat. One of the men said it was not unlike the head of a pug dog, but dark brown or black in color. Both the fishermen lost interest in their fish ing and fastened their attention on the serpent. After viewing the fishermen for a few minutes the serpent moved toward them some ten feet, and his entire body was seen on the surface of the water. It was from fifteen to twenty feet long and moved slowly and easily, in the manner of a huge snake. It took a second view of the fishermen for a few seconds and then dived. The sight unnerved the fishermen at first, but they resolved to get a nearer look. They saw the serpent perhaps half a dozen times, but were unable to secure a closer inspection of it. The story has been corroborated with more particulars by John Clark, a hotel proprietor, Theodore Clark, the big box manufacturer, and many others who have seen the serpent. These men say the serpent is as thick as a' dog's body. Cor. Hartford Courant. Game Galore in Maine. Moose are so very plentiful in north ern Maine that, as a sportsman can legally kill but one in a season, it is something of a disappointment to throw away the oiriy chance on an undersized or lean animal, or one with poor antlers. The boss hunter of Medway, Llewellyn Powers, is a man who wastes no powder on inferior gain and when he started out after his annual moose the other day he was determined to get a good one. He rolled his old slouch hat into a horn and called a moose to the-water at Pock wockamos lake, but the bull did not suit, being too lean and carrying small an tlers. Another and another came in re sponse of the hunter's call, and finally the ideal monarch of the woods ap peared. This bull fell before Powers' rifle. He weighed over a thousand pounds aud carried a perfect set of antlers that spread five feet. No fault can be found with a hunting ground which affords such opportunities as this for taking one's pick of big game. Al most anybody can get a moose in the upper Penobscot region. The other day a twelve-year-old boy named Hathaway went into the woods alone, called a big moose and dropped him at the first shot. Louisville Courier Journal. A I'ubllc Duel. In the case of the trial for murder which is going on at Naples the deceased . some time lefore his death fought a duel with a man who is now one of the pris oners. At the hearing the other day one of the witnesses, a government official, said that on the day of the duel he went with others to meet the carriages com ing back, for "at Palermo every one knows everything, and the carriages re turned as if from a festival, aud the peo ple waited to see them." The public minister asked the witness how the news of the duel being about to take place was known to the public. Witness: "First by the Mafia in fixing on the place and hour. I have never seen such a duel; people went as if to a feast, and every one knew of it, Per haps the ciremnstanee that an officer was fighting had some influence, and that therefore the authorities did not prevent it," London News. A Lawyer's Harvest. It is the man with the idea who de velops his opulency today, A lawyer of this city not long since in three months persuaded all the manufacturers of a certain staple product in the eastern states to form a combine. He visited all of them and finally got them together and drew the articles of agreement. Ha joined about twenty-fiv concerns into a combination, with a capitalization of over a million. At the outset he claimed 2 per cent., and his realization for his three months' work was $!i0,000, This is a fact. Two New Haven concerns are in the combination. New Haven Pal ladium, Sir. McCarthy Was Too l'reinature. Mr. McCarthy of Norwalk was indiscreet enough to secure his marriage certificate before he put the important question to the young woman. At last accounts Mr. Mc Carthy was still a single man, and the thrifty maiden had deposited the certificate with the town clerk to bo made over when the right man came along. This little story goes to prove that the race is not always to the swift and that enterprise is sometimes unrewarded. New York World. An Informal Salute. Since the days of Falstaff and Prince Hal surely monarch was never addressed in the familiar fashion by one of his subjects that the king of Portugal was saluted on leav ing the theater at Lisbon. "Hullo, old fellow!" a workniau called out as ho rushed forward to his majesty with the in tention apparently of shaking his royal hand. It was not a case of republican fel lowship, however, but of jangled reason V y V