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About The Lebanon express. (Lebanon, Linn County, Or.) 1887-1898 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 22, 1893)
LITERARY WOMEN WHO DRESS WELL.
Writer. Itnaniit tll AMrrtinn That Lit
erature Make. TlHtro OareleM.
Thorn wan a inmsting in the Woman's
Trow club the other day, and naturally
the question of woman's drewicaine np.
One of the ladies complained that some
one else had miKallantly said that wom
en writers as a rule were the worst
dressed women in the world I The ap
pearance of the ladies present, however,
proved that tile contrary was true.
There was a long discussion, of course
informally, upon the subject by a few
members, who sat in one corner of the
club room uud sipmd tea, A dashing
little blond, who is well known on
Newspaper row, tossed her pretty head,
and then surveyed her own pretty gown
with a satislied sort of air. A woman
who has the face and form of a Juno de
clined to even consider the subject,
while all the others sneered at. the writer
of the rude paragraph, looked at them
selves complacently, sipied their tcaand
To be perfectly frnnk, however, women
who muke a living by their pens are, us
a rule, pretty and well dressed. Take
for example Mrs. FranceB Hodgson Bur
nett. The author of "Little Lord Faunt
leroy" has sttiierb taste in dressing. Her
gowns are original uud depart in style
from the conventional, but they become
her, and that is the true art of dressing.
1 saw her once in a gown that was some
tiling between a Mother Hubbard and a
Greek tunic, Not every wmnnn could
wear it, but on her it was a dream of
Klla Wheeler Wilcox never wears a
tailor niude suit, but mvariauly enrobes
herself in a loose, flowing gown, tltat
gracefully drug's her short, plump fig
ure. At the ocra I have seen her wear
a V shaped corsage, cut moderately low
at the neck, uud looking better drawed
than the wives of many millionaires in
the surrounding boxes. Take Elita
Proctor Otis, who is as clever a writer as
sba is uu actress. No one has ever seen
her unless she was uttired in the most
becoming of costumes. She is a remark
ably handsome womau, and she is too
wle, and too busy ulso, to sind much
time ou dress, but her gowns ure the
envy of all her women friends. Her
dressmaker is a jewel indeed. Mine.
Clara Lanza has excellent judgment,
espwlally iu dressing. She wears ex
Jennie June (Mrs. Croly) is not much
on dress, but that may be because Bhe
has arrived at that age when a plain
gown becomes her best. Laura Daiutry
has a highly (esthetic way of costuming
herself that may look a little queer at
first, but after you come to knuw her
you get used to her innovations in dress
and cannot imagine her as ever dressing
differently. Mrs. Wotmore, nee Hisluud,
is uoled for her modest and becoming
way of dressing. She is beautiful and
everything she wears bus an artistic set
ling that only enhances her good looks.
Amelie Hives Chaulur is inclined to
drape in flowing rubes, but she knows
how to dress well. Mrs. Custer, widow
of the gallant Custer, is certainly neat
in dress! Mrs. Serruno, who translated
Marie Bashkirtseff a diary, has a French
chic in dressing that is decidedly hand
some: Mrs, Louise Chandler Moulton is
incomparable in evening uttire, and Mrs.
Frank Leslie Wilde is noted for her su
There are few better dressed women
in New York than "Bab." Mrs. Annie
Jeuness Miller is noted for her tine cos
tumes. Miss Mary F. Seymour always
dreBses richly and iu good taste. Mrs.
Julia Hayes Percy is as dashing and
well dressed as any womuu need care to
be, Mrs. Fannie B. Merrill's gowns are
of rich material and tit perfectly.
There are others, too a long list, in
deedthat would include Laura (iid
dings, Mrs. Maude Howe Elliott, Mrs.
A. D. T, Whitney, Sarah Ornie Jewott,
MrB. Burtou Harrison, tiie widow of
Admiral Dahlgren, Miss Molly Elliott
Seawell, Mrs. Alexander, Margaret Sang
ster, Julia Mugruder, uud well, others
too numerous to meutiou. The ladies
here named not only dress well, but they
are without exception as beautiful as
they are talented. Foster Coates in New
York Mail and Express.
Cat.' Tails for Biiniiet Deuuriitlml.
Parallel's in the social procession on
upper Broadway were recently over
whelmed at the sight of a confection of
a bonnet worn by a demure little blond
who seemed to experience no embarrass
ment at the amount of uttentiou she was
attracting. Iu every particular but one
the bonnet was u regulation article that
1)11 out of every 100 men or women would
have passed by without deeming it es
pecially worth of attention.
But hanging over the front lap, and
twisted around under a small hunch of
violets, was a cat's tail. There was no
mistaking the nature of the article, for
thero it hung, a sinister reminder of the
direful deed committed at midnight by
a bootjack in the hands of an irate man
whose slumbers had perhaps been awak
ened by the yeowliug of this midnight
marauder. A man was moved by the
tightof (bis strange bit of ornamenta
tion to inquire of one of New York's
most fashionable milliners if the reign
ing decorations for women's head cover
ing during the winter would be feline
The lady, without giving any indica
tion of surprise, replied in i ,ie affirma
tive. She said that in Lond,. i and Paris
the demand for cat's tails to be need for
ornamental purposes is spreading to an
alarming extent. Most of the recent
importations of bonnets have a cat's tail
or two in variegated colors attached in
ome conspicuous place. It therefore
behooves the native feline to do less
meandering after nightfalL With
commercial value placed upon each tail
the small boy will be actuated by a more
commendable motive than amusement
in disposing of the purring feline. New
York Mail and Express,
The Clothing of Bablsi,
Is it possible that women who know
how to clothe their babies and little chil
dren sensibly always keep thera at home,
while those who haven't a particle of
sense in this matter insist npon parading
them in public places? It often seems to
the Listener that this is the case. The
majority of little children that one sees
npon the street are either overclad or
nuderclad. Sometimes one meets the
two extremes close together. Saturday,
at a railroad station, the Listener saw a
half way elderly woman, who looked as
if the possession of a child were a new
thing to her, who had in her lap a tiny
baby not more than two months old.
The child was weighted down with a
flannel skirt deeply embroidered, a white
skirt heavily trimmed and tucked, a
white dress with lace and tucks, all a
yard long or more, and over these a long
cloak and cape, both embroidered.
The effect of the baby's tiny head,
11 bout as big as an apple, projecting from
this great mass and length of draperies,
would have been irresistibly comical if
it had not been for the thought of the
snffocating burden that the poor infant
was under. Close by, in the lap of an
other woman, was the antithesis of this
arrangement, it was a baby in Bhort
clothes scantily clad, with short stock
ings, and its bare legs were blue with
cold. There was no sign that it was in
sufficiently clad from poverty. In the last
few days the Listener has seen women
who wear fur cajies leading little girls
dressed in thiu white dresses, BoBton
The Uevlval nf Ilia Tea Uuwii.
There is evidence of a return to popu
larity of the tea gown. So long
as the tea gown iB confined to the
uses of its existence it is comfortable,
suitable and effective. When it aspires
to the dignity of a dinner costume, how
ever, or descends to the neglige of a
uioriiiug wrapper, it is immediately out
of place: it is too fine for the latter and
not formal enough for the former. After
its introduction in London drawing
rooms a few years ago as an easy toilet
tietween driving and dining, it soon
flaunted its dainty fripperies on this side
On American Boil it began under va
rious flimsy disguises to assist at recep
tions, drums and diuuers. Everybody
had a tea gown. Four cent chalhe ones
were worn with curl papers in the tene
ments uud costly imported morsels actu
ally graced (!) ballrooms.
Naturally the reaction came in due
time. Lust year the almost severely
simple close fitting gowns worn by host
esses and those assisting them on "at
home" days were a marked feature of
such functions. The tea gown was put
so resolutely aside that it was not even
tolerated. Out of tins flood and ebb,
however, we are to have tea gowns to
be used as such, but we are not to have
tea gowns iu the combination role to be
worn at any time. Her Point of View
in New York Times.
Tlie ntmiey Queetloii In 8orisl.
Sorosis is divided into opposing fac
tions now concerning the financial af
fairs of the club. Sorosis was founded
as an intellectual rather than a social or
ganization, and the original members
see signs of decadence in the fact that
the married elemeut has crept iu uud is
making its invidious influence felt. The
most marked expression of this is the re
cent removal of the club from the ban
queting hull at Delinonico's, which has
been gratuitously ut their service for
nearly a quarter of a century, to the
new Sherry ballroom, where each meet
ing will be held at an expense of $100.
The factions meet at the coming busi
ness session upon the question of dou
bling the entrance fee and the yearly
dues as well. The leaders of the literary
element, comprising the most valuable
women of the club, are opposed to the
new measure on the ground that money
shall not be made the teBt requisite of
membership, and that the increase m
fees will exclude the very women most
desirable and valuable as members, as
unfortunately money and bruins are in
most cases hopelessly divorced. New
Buttons fur Oruaniuuts.
Tho tailors and modistes are nsiug
very large buttons, but of tener us orna
ments than means of fastening. A tight
fitting baBque bodice of rich greeu cloth
is cut from the neck to far below the
hilia in one length. On each side of the
invisible double breasted opening are
sown very large buttons, six on each.
The sleeves to the elbow are green vel
vet. The cuffs, collar, and deep flap
pockets are green and gold brocade.
Among the new buttons are those show
ing ooptes o.f old coins of Henry VII,
Queen "Elizabeth and William the Con
qneror's day. There are also reproduc
tions of old Paris guild medals and me
dallions in copper amalgam and mixed
gold and bronze; also St. Nicholas pmks
are cut on Paris buttons designed for
Louis XVI coats. Silver and gold but
tons are of dull effect and are used with
garnitures, to which they correspond.
The new reds and browns of fashion
have their counterparts of oolor in
shaded buttons made of bronze metal.
New York Post.
Seventy Years Old and 81111 Actinic.
There are some remarkable and charm
ing old ladies on the stage, and not the
least remarkable and charming is Mrs.
(Jilbert, whose seventieth birthday was
celebrated in London a few days ago by
a notable dinner given at the Savoy
hotel. Some thirty persons were pres
ent, including the venerable Mrs. Keeley,
who has seen four score years and ten;
Mrs. Mellon, who, as Miss Woolgar, was
a toast among the admirers of the stage
of a generation now passed away; Mrs.
Bancroft, Mrs. Labouchere, Ada Rehan
and Genevieve Ward, to represent Mrs.
Gilbert's sisters of the stage.
Mrs. Gilbert was a daughter of Hart
ley, at one time editor of the London
Morning Post, and when he lost his for
tune she learned to dance as a ballerina,
Paul Taglioni being her instructor. She
came to this country with her husband
in 1849, but it waB not nntil 1857 thai
she took to acting in speaking parts,
Her New York debut was made under
the management of Mrs. John Wood,
who is now managing the Court theater
in London, and is herself a remaikable
old lady. San Francisco Argonaut.
Pretty Decorations at a Fair.
The season of fairs and bazaars is upon
ns. A beautiful church fair held last
week had the stalls in padoga shape.
The tops were burnished gold; they
were open all around and beautifully fes
tooned with cheesecloth and smilax,
each one taking a different color. The
effect was very handsome. A second
fair had for a centerpiece in the circulai
hall a Maypole wound with white rib
bons, and from the silvered top long
widths of white cheesecloth wreathed
with simlax radiated to all the booths,
which, in a large circle, went around the
hall. Shorter lengths reached to the
circling table directly about the pole,
which, all white and green, was tended
by six young girls dressed in white and
green and selling bonbons and flowers.
The other booths took different com
binations, one of blue and silver for the
sale of dolls being much admired. New
A Daughter of the Kevolutlou.
MrB. Flora Adams Darling, head of
the new Daughters of the Revolution,
is a slight, blond woman, who stoops s
little under the widow's veil siie alwaye
wears, and whose deafness causes her to
give an attention to any one who ad
dresses her that looks very gracious and
is always flattering till one finds out its
reiiNon. She is the widow of a Confed
erate general, and has published a vol
ume of her war experience, containing
an account of the battle of Chicka
uianga, which account General Grant
considered the best he had ever read.
She has been foryearsasuccessful news
paper womau. Her niece, Florence
Adams, is the youngest Daughter of the
Revolution aud has ou more than one
occasion read her aunt's addresses to the
assembled chapters. New York Press.
Good Health of the (Jtieeu.
The queen, it is said, has not been in
such good spirits for years in fact, ac
cording to one more or less high author
ity, one of the ladies at court expects her
"to be us girlish as the youngest of us."
I do not, of course, know how girlish
"the youugest of us" may be, but the in
terest which her majesty has lately
taken in dramatic entertainments is,
perhaps, a renewal of her youth. It is
just possible that, in spite of her abhor
rence of Londou, she may yet appear in
the royal box at the Lyceum or the Hay-
market theater while she is on the sunny
side or eighty. Loudon Figaro.
A Nuw Idea In Fancy Wurk.
A new idea, in the way of fancy work
is to have patterns stamped solidly in
indelible colors. This is very pretty on
white linen, aud gives a great deal of
effect for very little work, as the out
lines ouly require to be embroidered. A
running blue ribbon pattern in indelible
blue dye, outlined with silk of the same
shade, is a charming oue. The fast dyes
urea new invention, and will without
doubt become popular for many things
in the way of decoration. New York
A Kluuuii liurucsa.
An Euglish notion of the moment is to
tie a six iuch sash ribbon just below the
waist, crossing it at the back and bring
ing it around to the front just below the
bust, to filially tie behind iu a flat bow
between the shoulders and reach in long
ends to the hem of the dress. Of course,
this harness arrangement is used to re
lieve au untrimmed bodice and skirt.
Sometimes tho ribbons have beaded
fringes at the euds. They should be of
stiff satin. Exchange.
Much persuasion has been brought to
bear on Miss Sophie G. Hayden, who
drew the auueessful dosigu of the Wo
man's building at the World's fair, to
induce her to remain in charge, but she
is too fond of Boston to leave it. She is
still a very young woman and has a most
promising future as an architect. j
MASSACHUSETTS' NEW BISHOP. I
A Member of One of the Bent Families of
Rev. William Lawrence, S. T. D the
successor of Phillips Brooks as bishop of
the Episcopalian diocese of Massachusetts,
has been dean of the theological school of
his church at Cambridge for the past four
years and a professor in the same institu-
REV. WILLIAM LAWRENCE, S. T. D.
tion for 10 years. He is of one of the best
families of Massachusetts and himself a
Dative of the state. His grandfather was
one of the founders of the city of Lawrence,
and the city was named in his honor. It
was at Grace church in Lawrence that the
bishop elect officiated as rector for several
years after bis graduation from the Cam
bridge theological school, and there was
sincere sorrow among his congregation
when he resigned to take the post of vice
dean and professor of homiletics and pastor
al care at his alma mater. He became dean
in 1889 on the death of Dean Gray, retain
ing his professorship. The school has pros
pered under his care and largely because of
Dean Lawrence is about 43 years of age
and is one of a family of seven brothers and
sisters. He graduated at Harvard in the
famous class of 1871 and afterward prose
cuted his theological studies at the Episco
pal schools at Andover and Philadelphia,
taking his last year at Cambridge in 1876.
He married a granddaughter of Bishop
Parker, and they have three daughters and
one son. The family lives at the deanery
of the theological school and has a summer
house at Bar Harbor.
The election of Dean Lawrence Is essen
tially a victory for the broad churchmen,
and it is expected t hat he will conduct the
affairs of his diocese on the hues laid down
by the late Bishop Brooks during his short
but brilliant episcopate. There was con
siderable discussion at the convention
about the insufficiency of the bishop's sal
ary, which is not a stated amount, but the
income, whatever it may be, of the episco
pal fund, which amounts to nearly $140,000.
The income last year was $7,000. Some vig
orous endeavors will be made to increase
A Homily uu Dancing.
That the german should be so universal
ly popular is not surprising, for it is de
cidedly the moht varied of all parlor
dances, combining quadrille figures with
the fascination or the waltz a deux temps.
Its capabilities tor grace are large, though
not often carried out. indeed, the utter
want of this element, particularly amoog
men, Is painfully observable, yet Ameri
cans enjoy a Kuropeau reputation for the
excellence of their dancing.
Compared with Englishmen, who are
the most awkward of their sex, they are
fauns; yet there is scarcely a more ungain
ly sight than a rn.au iu a dress suit, spin
ning around like a teetotum, frantically
dragging a mass of tulle about with him,
apparently trying to get from one end of
the room to the other by the most circui
tous route, aud bringing up suddenly
against a wall or a man with another mass
of tulle, both parties rather the worse for
the collision, panting as though they had
the hydrophobia, aud red enough in the
face to lie victims of apoplexy. The long
strides men take in the galop are quite
wonderful, the attitude assumed being
very like that taken by frogs plunging into
water. They seem vainly trying to "dou
ble" the expanse of drapery which clings
to them so fondly.
As danciug is prosecuted, there should
be no spectators, for to them the scene is
certainly extraordinary. A delightful aud
natural amusement is, in its present con
dition, shorn of charms. Are days of grace
never to return? Is the poetry of motion
to be confined to KUslers and Taglioni!1
How refreshing it would be could the dig
uilied yet beautiful dances of Spain he
grafted on to our gnucherie as balls
would be wort li looking at and dancing
one of the tine arts. The dancer would
then be physically improved by ins amuse
ment, instead of becoming more awkward
by an awkward perfonuance.-Kttte field's
A Gallant Colonel.
Here is a true story on the Hon. Turn
Clifton. Wheu he was in Atlanta the
other day he went with a friend to a res
taurant for diuner. They lingered over
their duck aud celery for three-quarters of
au hour. The urbane "war horse" from
Chatham had noticed a lady sitting quiet
ly at a table when he entered, aud from
time to time as he glanced iu her direction
observed that she had not been served.
Finally he grew very impatient, aud, call
iug a waiter, sharply reprimanded him for
not bringing the lady's dinner.
"What, dat lady, kuruel!"
"Yes, you ought, to be discharged. She
has been sitting there au hour aud has not
had a Single thing to eat."
"Haw, haw, kurnel. Dat lady is the
cashier." Atlanta Constitution.
At a Lawyeri Banquet.
At the banquet of the Virginia Bar as
sociation, the wine being slow in mate
rializing, a certain judge obtained a bot
tle with great difficulty. Proud of his
success he exclaimed: "Gentlemen, my
strong right arm secured this champagne.
I acquired it by feudal tenure."
"Well," remarked a brother lawyer as
he poured out a copious draft, "we will
soon hold it in free and common
(BQcage)," Green Bag,
nuw a ling ue&wiea serpmit.
For over a year there have been ru
mors regarding tho existence of a large
serpent at Lake Kenosha, three miles
west of Dan bury, but every one who
heard the story received it with in
credulity. But the rumor grew in spite
of skepticism, aud the thoughtless wera
forced finally to admit that perhaps there
was something in it.
Friday Edward M, Baldwin and George-
Downs were fishing in the lake. Both
Are elderly business men and opposed to
notoriety in every way. They were en
gaged in hauling in fish, when suddenly
to the west of them a huge head poked
itself out of the water and contemplated
the fishermen. This was thirty feet away
from their boat. One of the men said it
was not unlike the head of a pug dog,
but dark brown or black in color. Both
the fishermen lost interest in their fish
ing and fastened their attention on the
After viewing the fishermen for a few
minutes the serpent moved toward them
some ten feet, and his entire body was
seen on the surface of the water. It
was from fifteen to twenty feet long and
moved slowly and easily, in the manner
of a huge snake. It took a second view
of the fishermen for a few seconds and
The sight unnerved the fishermen at
first, but they resolved to get a nearer
look. They saw the serpent perhaps
half a dozen times, but were unable to
secure a closer inspection of it.
The story has been corroborated with
more particulars by John Clark, a hotel
proprietor, Theodore Clark, the big box
manufacturer, and many others who
have seen the serpent. These men say
the serpent is as thick as a' dog's body.
Cor. Hartford Courant.
Game Galore in Maine.
Moose are so very plentiful in north
ern Maine that, as a sportsman can
legally kill but one in a season, it is
something of a disappointment to throw
away the oiriy chance on an undersized
or lean animal, or one with poor antlers.
The boss hunter of Medway, Llewellyn
Powers, is a man who wastes no powder
on inferior gain and when he started
out after his annual moose the other day
he was determined to get a good one.
He rolled his old slouch hat into a horn
and called a moose to the-water at Pock
wockamos lake, but the bull did not suit,
being too lean and carrying small an
tlers. Another and another came in re
sponse of the hunter's call, and finally
the ideal monarch of the woods ap
peared. This bull fell before Powers'
rifle. He weighed over a thousand
pounds aud carried a perfect set of
antlers that spread five feet. No fault
can be found with a hunting ground
which affords such opportunities as this
for taking one's pick of big game. Al
most anybody can get a moose in the
upper Penobscot region. The other day
a twelve-year-old boy named Hathaway
went into the woods alone, called a big
moose and dropped him at the first shot.
Louisville Courier Journal.
A I'ubllc Duel.
In the case of the trial for murder
which is going on at Naples the deceased .
some time lefore his death fought a duel
with a man who is now one of the pris
oners. At the hearing the other day one
of the witnesses, a government official,
said that on the day of the duel he went
with others to meet the carriages com
ing back, for "at Palermo every one
knows everything, and the carriages re
turned as if from a festival, aud the peo
ple waited to see them."
The public minister asked the witness
how the news of the duel being about to
take place was known to the public.
Witness: "First by the Mafia in fixing
on the place and hour. I have never
seen such a duel; people went as if to a
feast, and every one knew of it, Per
haps the ciremnstanee that an officer
was fighting had some influence, and
that therefore the authorities did not
prevent it," London News.
A Lawyer's Harvest.
It is the man with the idea who de
velops his opulency today, A lawyer of
this city not long since in three months
persuaded all the manufacturers of a
certain staple product in the eastern
states to form a combine. He visited all
of them and finally got them together
and drew the articles of agreement. Ha
joined about twenty-fiv concerns into a
combination, with a capitalization of
over a million. At the outset he claimed
2 per cent., and his realization for his
three months' work was $!i0,000, This
is a fact. Two New Haven concerns are
in the combination. New Haven Pal
ladium, Sir. McCarthy Was Too l'reinature.
Mr. McCarthy of Norwalk was indiscreet
enough to secure his marriage certificate
before he put the important question to the
young woman. At last accounts Mr. Mc
Carthy was still a single man, and the
thrifty maiden had deposited the certificate
with the town clerk to bo made over when
the right man came along. This little story
goes to prove that the race is not always to
the swift and that enterprise is sometimes
unrewarded. New York World.
An Informal Salute.
Since the days of Falstaff and Prince Hal
surely monarch was never addressed in the
familiar fashion by one of his subjects that
the king of Portugal was saluted on leav
ing the theater at Lisbon. "Hullo, old
fellow!" a workniau called out as ho
rushed forward to his majesty with the in
tention apparently of shaking his royal
hand. It was not a case of republican fel
lowship, however, but of jangled reason V