The Athena press., July 21, 1911, Image 2

FASHIONS
OF THE
MOMENT.
LTHOtJGH simplicity is the
r, keynote or tee new mu
Vx linery there are extremes.
i.hjf It is Just these extremes
that the well-dressed worn-
. an should guard against,
extremely plain hat is not
always a chapeau of simplicity. Very
' frequently it is the most daring style
Imaginable. This is because a "plain"
-hat generally must depend upon a
striking color combination or an un-
usual shape for Its chic and this
sometimes accentuates its severeness.
But' I do not wish to be misunder
stood, as this is not always the case
because some : plain hats are very
often the most stylish, writes Marion
Morris in the Chicago Inter-Ocean.
There is no happy medium (in size?
In the new millinery that Paris has
created for this season,
The bicorne Is considered the most
correct for morning wear with
tailored suits. Afternoon and even
ing hats are very large, but generally
flat.
While the bicorne is the favorite
In Paris at present, I should not be
surprised if it becomes the craze by
the ei:d of the season. It will then
be the most common hat, as it will
be copied In cheap straws and every
body will be wearing It regardless
whether it is morning or afternoon.
Bonnet Hat Just Now.
However, I may be mistaken, be
cause at the present time the helmet
bat Is having a run among the cheaper
Qiilllnery. It Is scarcely worth while
to talk about this hat, because I
should not advise any of my readers
adopting It even for a knockabout.
As a safeguard (If you are not al
ready acquainted with It) I shall
iescrlbe It. As Its name implies it
Is helmet shaped and fits down close
over the head. Rough straws are
most used wllh a quill or a small bow
of velvet in the back.
There Is no question about the
modlshness of the bicorne. Already
Paris has sent it to us in quite a
few sizes, but so long as It is In
tended for a tailored hat It Is quite
the best in the smaller dimensions.
Sometimes it has only a small orna
ment or velvet bow at the left side of
the front; sometimes It Is trimmed
with a large bow in the backv But
It never does possess very much trim
ming, and this I think can best be
regulated to suit the individual, as
lome women would look absolutely
foolish with trimming sticking up at
the back of a hat. As the style was
luggested by the bicorne of the
French revolution, It is sometimes
made entirely of the revolutionary
:olors red und blue. One charming
French model was of red straw faced
(With blue velvet, with a small cock
r ' ide of the two colors.
Choice of Many Shapes.
- " ; While this is recognized as "the"
. tailored hat of the season, there are
1 other shapes that are smart and more
W becoming to some women as not
i svery woman can wear a bicorne,
' ... 1 ...L. II I.- .....I.. ... all
vweuim iv id urn my it) or nui. aii
Sthese tailored shapes are small
nd close-tlttlng. Nearly all have
ry high, Bloplng crowns and narrow
led brims that are so small that
It Is dlillcult to determine whether
they are brims.
Illack and white is the basis of
Dearly all these tailored hats, Some
of tho shapes have white crowns and
narrow black brims, others are of
white and faced or bound In black
velvet. Standing bows of wide and
dashing ribbons are favorite trim
mings for these chapeaux. One of
the most charming hats that I have
Been Is a high crowned shape of white
Milan, bound with black velvet with
a standing bow of wide striped black
and white ribbon. In a word picture
It may Beem extreme, but the hat la
not half as daring as one may Imag
ine. A fascinating denil-tallored hat
with white straw crown and black
brim had a large flat bow of black
velvet at the left Bide almost In the
back and a tiny nosegay of forget
me knots and a few pink rosebuds at
the right side front. Either of these
hats might be easily made by the
won) an who has the knack of making
bows and who understands the selec
tion of shapes most becoming to her
face.
Quills In New Position.
Quills are again in favor! Hut this
time fashion has put them at the
back of the hats. It is a clever move!
The favorite quill hat is a saucer
turban with a dome-shaped crown,
with quills slanted across the back.
The round brim and the round crown
overcomes the severe angle of the
quills. Much depends upon the color
combination of such a hat. As Illus
tration a black straw hat with the
outside of the saucer brim outlined
with a band of emerald green velvet;
a baud of the same velvet around the
crown, and black and green quills.
Sailor hats undoubtedly will enjoy
a vogue again, because they have
been created In new and not such
severe shapes. Some have high
crowns and narrow rolled brims all
one color, or with a white crown and
colored brim. For athletic women
there are larger shapes, but all have
turned brims.
Afternoon and evening hats, fauill-
iarly known as "dress" hats, are large
and flat, as I mentioned above. The
lnsiin tion for these were from the
hats of a hundred years or more ago,
These hats are not all absolutely flat,
but arc flat In effect with a curve here
and there. Most crowns are low, al
though there are a few exceptions
Garlands of dainty flowers are among
the favorite trimmings, but in every
instance the adornment Is simple.
Hats of Colored Straw.
So the hats may not be painfully
plain, colors are the foundation of
their beauty. Heretofore "dress" hats
were mostly of black straw, and if a
color was added it was in the facing
This season they are vice versa the
hats are of colored straw faced with
black. The trimmings are In harmony
with the color of the straw. While
vivid colors are often used they are
subdued by this black facing, so that
the effect Is not really extreme.
New lace veils are also in color,
and are in harmony with the shade
of tho hat. How successful this
vogue will be Is a question, as not
every woman can wear any color over
her face.
Styles come and go, but plumed
hats will always be in style. Of
course, each season a new arrange
ment for plumes is created.
Plumed hats this season are not
overladen. They may be only two
plumes standing at the side, or an
ostrich colk.r (lobster feather, as it
is sometimes called) encircling the
crown. To give height to a hat with
an ostrich collar there should be at
least one plume standing, or better
still, an aigrette at the side-back,
of course.
Are Comfortable.
Although much may be said of the
beauty and charm of this season's
millinery, It has another commendable
feature the hats are comfortable.
Probably this is because coiffures are
now worn very plain and necessarily
Itf '
If
;' mm'
let
tho hats are designed In accord with
the hairdress. As the hats are not
shaped to crown a pile of puffs, they
are made to lit human heads and
therefore it is not dlillcult for any
woman to be fitted.
A woman asked me the other daj
whether I thought mushroom hats
would be In vogue this season. It may
be unwise to make a prediction, but
I think before midsummer is here
the mushroom will figure among the
best styles in millinery. This seems
to be natural, as the mushroom Is one
of the most becoming hats that has
ever beeu created, and its drooping
brim Is such as excellent protection
during the hot summer months. Be
sides, it Is a hat that can be artistical
ly trimmed and that counts a great
deal when one loves the beautiful.
The Illustration shows a lovely
evening gown of shell pink ntnon over
pink satin, trimmed with coarse pink'
lace aud tassels of brilliants.
The Popular Handbag.
In the way of handbags nothing la
newer than tho dark, flatly folded ar
ticle, heavily beaded, and made with
or without a flap. These bags are car
ried, as a rule, by long ropes of beads.
or of twisted silk, and the beads are
patterned upon a foundation of faille.
Stitches of gold sparkle among the
beads, or may do so. which gold may
be accentuated by the tiniest of span
gles. The latter are used to pick out
the design upon brocade baga In light
delicate tones. Harper's Bazar.
FARM ORCHARD
Notes and Instructions from Agricultural Colleges and Experiment Stations
of Oregon and Washington, Specially Suitable to Pacific Coast Conditions
LATE SPRING WORK.
By H. D. Scudder. 'Agronomist, Oregon Experi
ment Station.
While the rains that have been re
ceived throughout Oregon during the
month of May have been extremely
beneficial, they have interrupted and
delayed spring seeding. Because of
the unusually cold weather of April,
which, according to the weather rec
ords kept at Corvallis, was the coldest
April on record, the late spring seed
ing should give equally good or super
ior returns to the early seeding, for
many of the crops.
The early sown corn, alfalfa and po
tatoes have been held back by the
cold weather, and the same is true
of the kale, rape, mangels and bar
ley. If advantage has been taken of
the lateness of seeding time to give
several extra cultivations to the seed
bed, getting rid of young weed
growth, and conserving moisture, the
late seeding will probably, in the ma
jority of cases, give superior yields.
This is especially true if extra care is
used in giving the last fitting to the
seed bed just before sowing.
With the weather much warmer,
the surface soil moist and mellow,
thoroughly fined and free from weeds,
the latter part of May this season
offers ideal conditions for the seeding
of alfalfa, clover, rape, corn, barley
and even potatoes. For the first three
the spring plowed land has had time to
settle so that a thorough discing to a
depth of about four inches, followed
by a harrowing, will put the ground
into excellent shape for the seed. For
the alfalfa, of course, it is to be re
memberd that throughout Western
Oregon, except possibly on the sandy
river drift soils, inoculation soil, ob
tained from the surface of a success
ful alfalfa field, should be broadcasted
over the new seed bed at the rate of
100 pounds to the acre, and immedia
tely harrowed in. The soil should be
preferably scattered on a cloudy day
or towards evening, so that the bac
teria may not be injured by the sun
shine. To facilitate the spreading of
so small an amount of inoculation soil
it may be mixed with four or five
hundred pounds of the soil of the
field to be inoculated, so that a suffi
cient bulk will be had to be broadcast
ed easily and evenly. Of course, in
oculation is entirely unnecessary in
Oregon east of the Cascades, owing to
the lesser rainfall of that region, the
alkalinity of the soil, and the ap
parently universal presence of the al
falfa bacteria throughout the soils of
the region.
Following the inoculation the alfal
fa seed may be either broadcasted or
drilled in, preferably the latter. It
has been found that drilling in the
seed makes a much more economical
use of it, insuring a more even and
larger germination of the seed, be
cause of its being placed at a uniform
depth in moist soil. Where drilled in,
the seed should not be sown deeper
than an inch and a half, care being
taken to set the drill to seed shallow
ly. Where the shallow seed bed rec
ommended for small seed has been
prepared and the ground is firm, the
drill wheels should not sink in deeply
enough to place the seed below the
depth recommended. Where a grass
seeder attachment for the drill is had
it is merely necessary to connect the
grass seeder box to the grain tubes so
that the alfalfa seed will be drilled in
in the regular manner. Where there
is no grass seeder attachment the al
falfa may be mixed with meal at the
rate of one-third part of alfalfa seed
to two-thirds corn meal or ground bar
ley, and the mixture put in the grain
hopper box and sown like grain at the
rate of about one bushel per acre for
Western Oregon seeding. This would
make about eighteen pounds of seed
per acre. Owing to the universal
lower germination of alfalfa seed this
year (the average germination of all
the samples received at the Corvallis
seed testing laboratory being about
85 per cent, instead of the normal 95
per cent), the heavier seeding named
is recommended. Where the seed is
broadcasted by hand or with a chest
seeder not less than twenty pounds of
seed should be used, and this should
be harrowed in. As I have mentioned
in previous articles, the alfalfa seed
should, of course, have been sent in to
the seed testing laboratory for exam
ination as to purity and germination
before purchase or seeding, to be cer
tain that the seed has sufficient vital
ity to make a stand and is free from
dangerous weed seed, such as dodder,
which is' becoming so common in
alfalfa.
It is equally important, of course,
that the alfalfa ground should be free
of weeds, as foul ground is worthless
for alfalfa seeding. Clean ground can
be obtained best by growing a culti
vated crop, well manured, the year
previous to seeding the alfalfa. Po
tatoes are an especially good crop to
preceed the alfalfa, but any well
manured and thoroughly tilled crop
will do.
In Eastern Oregon on the wheat
lands the alfalfa should preferably be
tM of Cow's Milk.
A cow that loses her milk between
mtlklngs Is hard to cure. Sometime
it can be checked or stopped by using
one or more rubber bands around the
teats. Milking a cow three time a
day will avoid some of the lost. Some
cows seem Incurable, and about all
that can be done with them la to keep
them to feed calves with. The fre
quent removal of the milk by the
calves will prevent enough milk ac
cumulating to leak out
drilled in on clean summer fallowed
land in double rows about three feet
apart.' This can easily be done by
stopping up all of the grain tubes ex
cept pairs of two, separated by four
grain tubes closed. Of course, only
about four pounds of seed per acre
would be used for seeding this way.
On the wheat land this row alfalfa
where thoroughly cultivated through
the summer gives excellent yields of
very high quality seed, far outstrip
ping the wheat as a money maker and
in its effect in increasing the fertility
of the soil.
CHAMPION "BULL-DOGGER."
Pendleton Round-Up Secures Desir
able Attractions.
Dell Blanchett, champion of all
"bull -doggers," and his wife, Bertha
Blanchett, champion woman broncho
buster of the word, are the two latest
attractions to the list of features for
the 1911 Round-Up which will be held
at the new stadium in Pendleton on
September 14 to 16 inclusive.
Fred Earle, manager of non-competitive
events, has just signed a con
tract with these famous Wild West
people, which will insure their ap
pearance at Pendleton for the three
days of the show.
Blanchett is the man who defeated
Buffalo Vernon in a "bull-dogging"
contest at the Fiesta of the Dawn of
Gold at Sacramento last year and in so
doing he lowered the world's record
for this event 16 seconds. This rec
ord was formerly held by Buffalo Ver
non, who wore the title of champion
for so long and who gave the North
west people their first exhibition of
the gentle art of "bull-dogging" a
steer at the first annual Round-Up last
year. As he will also be back this
year it is probable that some kind of
a match contest can be arranged be
tween the two renowned steer wrest
lers. Mrs. Blanchett is perhaps better
known than her husband, and as a
drawing card is considered superior.
For years she has been doing nothing
except riding wild horsesfand there is
no "outlaw" too unmanageable for
her to mount. While at the Round
Up she will offer to ride against any
woman rider in the world for a side
bet of $1,000.
Mr. and Mrs. Blanchett have ap
peared several years as among the
star attractions at the Cheyenne Wild
West show and traveled at one time
with Buffalo Bill's tented frontier ex
position. Recently they have been
conducting a small show of their own
in California and it was only with the
utmost difficulty and a considerable
figure that they were induced to par
ticipate in the local exhibition.
FASHION HINTS
! I'.ll 'j"
Batiste flouncing is shown here,
combined with a silk of contrasting color.
For the flounce edge on the Blurt, the
silk brings out the pattern effectively.
Velvets, as well as silk and satins,
are used in this way.
Keeping Cabbages.
Select a dry place In the patch, pua
ap the cabbages and stand closely to
gether, heads down. Cover with soil
from five to ten Inches, thinly at first
so they will not heat, covering only
enough to prevent freezing as the sea
son advances. The burying beds may
'e made from four to six feet wide.
Glazed Fruits and Nuts.
Boll without stirring for 10 or IS
ntnutes one pound granulated sugar
and one-half cup water. Test in water
and when brittle remove from fire, add
one tablespoon lemon juice and set
the pan containing the candy In a
bowl of hot water. With a long pin
or needle immerse section of oranges,
grapes, figs, almonds, walnuts or pe
cans and set upon oiled papers. The
fruit or nuts must be thoroughly dry
before dipping into candy.
PREPARE SOIL FOR ALFALFA LIFE WAS STRENUOUS
Many Failures Attributed to Lack of j
8tudy of Needs of Plant It Is
Valuable Feed.
(By W. M. KELLET.)
In most cases the people who have
made a failure of growing alfalfa -ance Backward at Domestic Tribula-
THINGS NOT ALWAYS PLEASANT
IN THE STONE AGE.
have not devoted much attention to
the study of the needs of the plant
and have tried It In a manner that
would niake success out of the question.
The more I see of the plant and,
tlons of the Cave Dweller Should
Make Us Thankful Times
Have Changed.
Away back In the days of the cave
converse with men who are succeed-1 iwellers life must Indeed have been
Ing in growing It the more I am of the a strenuous proposition,
opinion that it will grow on many I After you'd chased an antelope 39
farms where it has proven a failure. I miles through the woods and killed it
There is no question but that It is a with a stone hatchet with an edge like
very valuable feed to use to balance a grindstone you had to carry it home
the rations of farm animals and 59 miles and dissect it with a piece of
those who have fed It are pleased flint that was as sharp as a Rugby
with the results
Many who have read about It are
football.
If company came to dinner
you
skeptical and will not give it a fair couldn't boll a can of soup in a kettle
trial and many times when they do and serve the delighted guests with
try it they go at It in a half-hearted something that made their mouths wa
manner and throw the seed upon the ter. Not much you couldn't
soil anywhere It happens to drop and) Instead you'd follow your cave-dwell-condemn
the plant If they happen to. lug wife into the back part of the
get unsatisfactory results. leave, and she'd say Just like your
There is no use trying to grow al- wife does today:
falfa unless the soil Is in the best state I "Fool! Idiot! Wretch! The very
of tilth possible and properly manured Idea of your bringing people home
and fertilized for the young plants are when you knew there wasn't anything
tender and will not thrive unless the. In the house to eat!"
conditions are favorable.
If alfalfa is started under the fol
lowing conditions and you fail to get
a good stand you can rest assured that
you have done your part and after
Then you'd go out where the com
pany was twiddling Its bare legs and
say:
"I'm awfully sorry, ol' man, but
there ain't anything to eat In the
trvlne three or four times and falling house. Just make yourself at home.
you may then declare it a failure, but and I'll run over on Stone river and
not until then should you give up try
ing. A rich well drained soil that is well
supplied with humus, by the addition
of fine stable manure and cover crops
and a compact seed bed must be ofr
see If I can't kill something." You
couldn't even give him that old song
and dance about the grocer not com
ing. You'd have to wander about In the
Jungle, and finally, If luck wa3 with
talned. Most of the successful grow-, you, you'd kill something it aian i
ers sow about 20 pounds of seed to matter what. You'd hurry home, and
the acre without a nurse crop. I your wife and the guest would be on
It must have frequent clipping to ' the friendly footing of the walrus and
hold the weeds In check, but must an algebraic proposition, and the way
never be cut until it has obtained a j she looked at you would make cold
fair growth and a vigorous root sys-, chills run up and down your spine,
tern. ' I It's different these days, and much
. . las we lambast the canners of lima
TURKEY HENS QUITE TIMID J,eanB and tomatoes and ham and
things, we have to admit that it beats
the stone age all hollow.
Always Endeavor to Lay Eggs Where
No One Will Find Them Should
Be Watched.
If you bring a friend home unex
pectedly, of course, your wife will look
at you as though you'd contemplated
alrlnnfnir tlia oKv vrtHhtnc H Klin
tv uan ia nv.a day school of its collection, but she'll
i v,. ,w,. .in be able to dish up something!
find them, and sometimes those that I " everything else fails she can call
lay early in the spring will steal their ,UP tne store and get some ce
nests in some out-of-the-way place, and 1Ie toe gu"y,?g-
where the owner will not find them I ""baa been so hot we , dont eat sup
until the first eggs laid are destroyed , Pe; now; We usually have cream
by the cold. This emphasizes the im- or tlmes aTe changed 8 " " S
portance of watching the hens closely 8 ne f and man37 f fonrgJ
and locating the nests early. The f our blessings at other times must
eggs should be taken away after the recognize that we are fortunate peo-
hen has left the nest each day. Hard ueu w wi . .u,uc - "
boiled duck eggs, or even large hens'
eggs, hard boiled should be put in
their places to satisfy the layer.
It la not wise to go near these nests
while the hens are on them, or to re
move the eggs while the hens are in
the vicinity. If they discover that the
nests are found they are quite likely
to steal others and abandon the first.
When the hens become broody and
settle down on the nests to stay, the
fake eggs may be removed and their
own eggs put back while they are
away feeding.
Feeding Laying Hens.
There can be no cast iron rules laid
down for feeding laying hens. Individ
ual hens will often overfatten, while
others in the same pen, with the same
food, will remain In proper condition,
says a writer in an exchange. The
writer uses the following method,
which he has followed for 30 years,
and which has always proved effec
tive: In the morning a mash Is given
composed of bran, two parts; mid
dlings, ground oats, corn meal and
meat scraps, each one part, and linseed
meal five per cent. Slightly moisten
with water. Give all the green food
they will eat during the day, and at
night feed a mixture of two parts
whole wheat, two parts oats and one
part whole corn. The parts in the mash
food are by weight, while the parts in
the grain food are by measurement. Of
the mash food a large iron spoonful is
allowed for every two fowls in the pen,
and of the evening grain food a good
handful Is given to each fowl In the
pen. The grain food is thrown among
hay, straw or leaves to make them
scratch and exercise. Grit, charcoal
and cracked oyster shell are constantly
before them.
parlson of conveniences. Dallas News.
For Art's Sake.
"Look pleasant," said the photog
rapher. The sitter raised his eyes and gave
a sickly smirk.
"Your head just little bit more to
the left, please," suggested the voice
from the black shroud. "No, don't
move the eyes."
Like a man suffering from a stiff
neck, or an Eiffel tower collar, the
sitter tilted his head gingerly till It
reached the desired angle, and he re
sembled a dyrng fish trying not to
mind.
"That's very nice very nice, In
deed," said the photographer. "Stay
Just there while I make the exposure."
He removed the cap as he spoke and
counted out one and three-fourths min
utes. "Thank you, sir," he then ob
served. "You can get up. I'm afraid
you've been sitting on your hat." "
"My hat," roared the sitter, angrily,
regarding the flattened felt. "Why,
the dickens didn't you tell me I was
sitting on it?"
"My dear sir," protested the photog
rapher blandly, "that would have
spoiled your expression"
Growing Rhubarb.
New plantations of rhubarb should
be made as soon as rjnaslhln In tho
spring. Linneas and ' Victorias aref "Yes- flne" sald the wmau
Chivalrous Raphael.
All along the woman had maintained
that her little Italian cobbler was
sharp as a tack. The quickness with
which he caught on to who Tetrazzlnl
Is and what she does upheld ber o .,
tentlon. He had never heard of Tet
razlnl and he did not know the mean
ing of sing, but all the woman had to
say was:
"Itallano woman sing la, la, la, la,
la, la," and a glow of comprehension
lighted his eyes.
"Ah, schlamazzree," he said. "Itall
ano woman do that?"
two popular varieties. Ordinarily the
new plantations are made by using the
divided roots from old plantations.
Only the strong, healthy eyes should
be used from strong, healthy roots. An
Ohio grower applies annually to his
rhubarb ubout 40 tons of manure per
acre. Smaller applications will an
swer the purpose, but liberal manur
ing Is undoubtedly very essential for
the production of large stalks. The
manure can then be Incorporated with
the soil by the use of proper Implements.
But when 6he looked up "schlamaz-
zare" in an Italian dictionary and
found that It meant to cackle like a
hen her opinion of Raphaelo as a lin
guist and a cavalier underwent a revision.
The Henhouse,
Be sure that the new henhouse is
Not a Fighter.
"My father." the host says, "carried
that sword."
The guest examines the blade with
Interest, and discoverers a stamped
statement thereon, to the effect that
the sword was made in 1S99.
"What war was your father In?"
he asks.
War? Oh, father wasn't in any
located where the drainage Is good '-.," , RDy
. . . , . 6"u, war; He was a traveling salesman
aDd fA.ln.lP,La.C!.h!r?.Water -.for a regalia house."-JudE9
Biauu iui Buy irugiu oi lime.
The fowla that scratch and work
are usually the ones that lay. The oth
ers are the drones and the drones don't
pay.
Pure-bred poultry cost more than the
How Rumors Start.
"What's this about sewing your un
fortunate wives up In sacks?" ,
"Nothing to It" replied the sultan.
2K2f bdng leM lIIlr. n did get 'em som.