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About Cottage Grove leader. (Cottage Grove, Or.) 1905-1915 | View Entire Issue (Aug. 16, 1910)
INDIAN LANDS STEAL GREAT A P P LE S 8100.000.000 A YEAR. Western Men Make Big Predictions' for Northwest Country. Chicago— "W h ile apples are not yet the principal products o f Washington, Oregon, Idaho and Montana, those who are fam iliar with the unrivaled cli matic and soil and other conditions believe the time is near when the apple yields o f the four states w ill be worth $100,000,000 a year and the cul Liberal O ffer« Made to Congressmen ture o f the king o f fruit w ill be the to Push Crooked Deal— chief industry.” Thieves Fall Out. H. L. Moody, a member o f the cham ber o f commerce and other organisa McAlster, Oklahoma— The "p oor In tions in Spokane, Wash., said this in dian" learned a few more things about an address on "A p p le Culture and Irri the proposed sale o f 130,000,000 worth gation in the Northwest,” at the first o f his land in the hearing before the congressional investigating committee meeting of the Chicago Irrigation Thursday. Representative C. D. Car , association at the La Salle hotel in ter, of the Fourth Oklahoma district, Chicago the evening of July 28. Judge testified that in an interview at the Charles F. Fishback was toastmaster. home of Richard C. Adams, an attor Mr. Moody added, among other things: ney at Washington, Adams had said "Federal and state engineers Bay in that he had an arrrangement by which he was to secure 5 per cent of the reports to their respective departments “ profits" to be derived from the Mc- there are approximately 200,000,000 Murray certificates. " H e also told m e," testified Mr. Carter, “ that Congressman B. S. Mc Guire was in the deal and would get his share. He also told me that Dr. Wright, a delegate for the Choctaw Indians at Washington, with a salary o f $6,000, was in on the deal. He also said: ‘ We got some others,’ but he did not mention any other names.” “ Did Adams say he was going to get 6 per cent o f all the money J. F. Mc- Murray was to realize on the deal?" asked Chairman Charles N. Burke. "Y e s , he said he was going to make sure of it, as McMurray had ‘ double- crossed’ him at other times, but this time he was going to fix it so he could not lose out, and when McMurray got his 10 per cent, or $3,000,000, or whatever it amounted to, he (Adams) was going to get 6 per cent o f the, pro ceeds. " I also met Jake L..' Hamon at H. L. MOODY. Washington. He told me to go to that old man Gore and get him to withdraw that fool bill o f his against acres of undeveloped arable lands in the United States west o f the 98th the McMurray contracts.” “ Do you think a majority o f the In meridian, and men versed in agricul dians are in favor of these contracts ture assert that under proper cultiva giving 10 per cent to McMurray?” tion this area could be made to produce “ There is no doubt that they a re ." between 4,000,000,000 and 4,500,000,- he replied. But there is also no doubt ! 000 bushels of wheat yearly, or other that in signing the contracts many crops in proportion. The settlement were influenced to do so by persons of these lands would mean homes for who had an interest in them.” not less than 20,000,000 population and Adams was descirbed as a Delaware a source of added food supply, and, as Indian, who frequently has been men a consequence, permanent prosperity. tioned as having called on President “ The four Northwestern states con T a ft in matters pertaining to Indian tain 253,894,760 acres. Less than 5 affairs. It was Adams to whom the per cent o f this land is occupied by Indians in this state were asked to ad j farms and the total population is not dress their telegrams urging President more than 3,000,000, in an area of T aft to approve the sale of the lands. 397,700 square miles. More than 60,- Before Carter le ft the stand Mc- 000,000 acres of this land is adapted to Murray’ s attorneys obtained from him irrigation. Planted to apples and testimony tending to show that Mc properly watered the minimum crop at Guire in previous Indian matters had maturity would be a matter o f 20,000,- supported measures in congress oppos 000,000 bushels, or about 40 per cent ed to the interests of McMurray. of the total crop o f the United States Carters’ appearance on the stand fol in 1909, when less than 23,000,000 bar lowed another day o f lively testimony. rels of apples were harvested. “ I mention these facts merely to show the possibilities o f the country as proof that, as gold was the strong magnet which sent the first American across the continent to the California N ew York, Aug. 10.— Mayor W. J. caast in 1849, so today the apple is at thousands Gaynor, of N ew York, lies at St. tracting thousands upon Middle Marys hospital tonight with the seg more people from Eastern, ments of a split bullet fired yesterday Western and Southern stateB to the by James Gallagher, who sought to great orchard belts o f the Northwest. "T h e apple is king throughout the assassinate him, still buried in his neck and mouth, but he has shown not vast Northwestern domain, and it is one alarming symptom. I t is beyond conceded by pomological experts that human power to say whether he will no district in America stands higher in With increased recover, for not even the most re fruit production. nowned specialist can say whether transportation facilities and the steady blood poisoning will be the aftermath, influx of settlers, the early attempts in but as yet the mayor’s temperature has the valleys and uplands have become given no cause for alarm. Every indi more pretentious and systematic. Irri cation is that the wound is healing sat gation plants have been established by private individuals and corporations, isfactorily. and the United States government is \ expending enormous sums in reclaim- Five Crushed to Death. Cape May, N. J.— Five persons were ! ing the volcanic wastes which are so crushed to death when an express train wonderfully rich and fertile and so pe on the Pennsylvania railroad dashed culiarly adapted to raising unblem into an automobile at Mill Lane cross ished fruits. Apples grown in Washington, Ore ing on the West Jersey & Seashore railroad. The express train was hid gon, Idaho and Montana are in demand den from view by a cornfield. As the in the Eastern and Middle Western automobile bore down toward the states and in Europe and Australia, and train, Mrs. Thomas McNeill, who lives the markets are being extended year near the crossing, saw the approaching by year. Experts in the East who express and waved her hand for the have studied conditions in the North auto driver to stop his car, but the man west frequently refer to these states either did not see the danger signal or a s ‘ the world’s fruit basket,’ adding thought he could cross before the train. there has been established in a com paratively short time a domain where the first foot o f soil, properly cultivat Fish Business Grows. ed and irrigated, is worth more than Vancouver, B. C. — Evidently the all the mines from Alaska to Mexico Canadian Northern railway is seeking and all the forests from the United to control the deep-sea fisheries pf the States boundary to the Arctic sea.” North Pacific. Recently it obtained control o f the entire stock o f the Pa California Gets T w o Fairs. cific Whaling company, a deal involv San Diego, Cal.— California is as ing over $1,0(10,000. Last spring the company also bought out the Queen sured o f two expositions to celebrate Charlotte Whaling company, which the opening o f the Panama canal in owned exclusive whaling rights on the 1915. Voters of San Diego, at a mu west coast o f the Queen Charlotte nicipal election Aguust 9, decided to islands, and installed at Rose Harbor a issue $1,000,000 in bonds for improve new station on July 26, which has made ment o f the city park, already selected as the exposition site, and for the con the phenomenal catch o f 18 whales. struction o f permanent buildings to constitute the nucleus o f the fair. Postal Banks in Small Cities. Beverly, Mass.— Postmaster General This is regarded as a ratification o f the Hitchcock made a preliminary report agreement reached by representatives to President T a ft regarding the plans of San Francisco and San Diego in con for the early institution o f postal sav ference at Washington last May. Representative Carter of Okla homa, Implicates Many. MAYOR GAYNOR IMPROVES; INDICATIONS FAVORABLE J ings banks in different parts o f the Italy is After Charlton. country. The experimental banks w ill New York— Porter Charlton will not be located in smaller cities in order to perfect the system. It is hoped that escape returning to Italy to answer for the experimental banks may be in I the confessed murder o f his wife, operation by October 16. Mr. Hitch Mary Scott Castle Charlton, at Lake This cock and the president, it is said, also Como, without a legal battle. was made plain by Gustav Dirosa, the talked o f the political situation. Italian vice consul, who told Prosecutor Aviator Badly Hurt. Garvin in Jersey City, where CharlJ Johannistal, Germany — Aeroplanist ton is in prison, that his government "H e Hiem was seriously hurt at the avia was “ going to get Charlton." tion meet here. While he was flying shall not escape trial in Italy if we can The vice consul inquired in a W right machine, at the height of help it.” about 226 feet, one o f the propellers whether the prosecutor intended to broke. The other continued to run, have alienists examine Charlton. causing the craft to turn over several Death Comes With Riches. times. It fell with a crash and was completely demolished. Hiem was Salmon City, Idaho — Crushed to carried off the field unconscious. death by a fall o f rock, the body of John Doyle was found by a party of Twelve Dia in Wrack. prospectors northwest o f this city. Ignacio, Cal. — Disobedience o f or Doyle was working alone and the fall ders, according to the railroad officials, o f rock show' that he had just struck on the part o f a conductor was respon a rich lead o f gold-copper ore. It is sible for a head-on collision between a! not known how long he had been lying passenger and a work train on the dead among his newly discovered rich Northwestern Pacific near here, that es, as it was by chance that his body took a known toll o f 12 lives and in was found. Doyle had been prospect ing in this district for many years. jured about 20. MAYOR GAYNOR IS ASSASSINATED LOVE AMONG THE BONNETS By C O R I N N E J A C K S O N Mortally Wounded While on Board Steamer. Was About to Sail for Europe Rest and Travel—Assassin Arrestad on Ship. for New York, Aug. 9.— Mayor William J. Gaynor, o f N ew York, was shot and probably fatally wounded on board the steamer Kaiser Wilhelm der Groese as he was sailing for Europe this morn- ing. His assailant who, at the time waa not identified, was arrested. Later the man who shot the mayor gave his name as Jules James Gallegher o f 440 Third avenue, New York City. The mayor was standing on the up per deck of the liner, well forward, talking with Commissioner Thompson, Corporation Counsel Watson and his secretary Mr. Adamson, when the shot was fired. William J. Gaynor was bom in Whitestown, Oneida county, New York, in 1851, and received his educa tion in Whiteston and Boston. A t the age o f 22 he went to Brooklyn, where he engaged in newspaper work and took up the study of law, working on the Brooklyn and New York papers while studying. He was admitted to the bar in 1875 and began practice. He was a noted writer on legal subjects and acquired a national reputation for his work in breaking up rings within the Democratic party and in securing the conviction o f John Y . Kane for election frauds. He was elected Judge o f the Supreme court and served from 1893 to 1909, when he was elected mayor o f New York City. He twice declined the Democratic nomination for governor, also judge o f the Court of Appeals, and also the nomination for mayor of Brooklyn in 1896. He was one of the first to speak o f favoritism in freight rates. "Frances,” said the soft voice, “bring me another pair of those wings, please.” The young girl waiting beyond the drawn curtalna of the alcove, obeyed, and Louise Ward, designer and head milliner for Marshall Mills, laid the wings beside a corresponding pair which flared across the broad moire hat she waa showing to the fastidi ous woman who sat before the mir ror. The effect was Immediate, and ths woman's bored countenance wanned to Interest. j "Why, that la magical!” she ez- clalmed. Louise deftly set the bat upon the elaborately dressed head and stood aside that the woman might study her reflection. "Yes,” she said at last, “ you have carried out my Idea exactly. I will take the hat.” Louise smiled. They always said that? and yet It waa her Idea that they adopted and considered as their own— her Idea so cleverly suggested, pre sented, Insisted upon, so r.rtfully con cealed that they did not suspect the origin. Her wonderful tact, added to her artistic ability, had kept her In her place for 14 years, and earned for her a salary that would have pleased most men. Bhe held the curtalna aside, and as this customer passed out an other stood waiting to enter. It waa the regular routine of the day. And the day waa drawing to a close. Since nine o'clock that morning with the ex ception of a bare half-hour for lunch, •he had been upon her feet, design- ing. fitting, directing, always outward ly calm, smiling, soft-voiced. The two young girls who stood at her bidding had never seen her frown In anger. Yet. though no one guessed It, she was In reality, very tired— so tired that she had to steel herself to en dure from one moment to the next. SW ARM T O SEE R O O SE E VLT. l Dedication o f John Brown Battlefield Will Draw Thousands. Topeka, Kan.— Visits to Kansas by Presidents Harrison, Roosevelt and T a ft have brought together great crowds, but the coming o f Colonel Roosevelt on August 31 to dedicate the John Brown battlefield at Ossawatomie will cause to assemble there the great est number of Kansas people ever con gregated within the borders o f the state. Fully 50,000 will attend this cele bration, which is to be held on the bat tlefield where John Brown and his men fought for free Ksnsas. The tract of land, comprising 22 acres, has been purchased by the Women's R elief corps and deeded to the state for a .memorial park. Ossawatomie, the early home o f John Brown, is about 50 miles Bouth and west o f Kansas City, and about 15 miles from the Missouri state line. In the early history o f the state the town was a mere trading' post, but with the building o f the Missouri Pacific rail road through it an era o f prosperity came and with this the location of shops for the railroad company. Its population today is round 2,600. What the little town will do with the 50,000 people who w ill assemble there to greet Colonel Roosevelt on the morning o f August 31 is a question not easily answered. Trainmen Ask 8-Hour Day. St. Louis— The eight-hour day for freight conductors and trainmen and the mileage basis for passenger crews are the most important proposals that will be submitted to the Order o f R ail way Conductors and the Brotherhood of Railroad Trainmen in the next ten days. The crews w ill seek the equiva lent o f the 20 per cent increase in wages. The concessions that w ill be requested will be in the form o f im proved rules and conditions of work. Meteor Falls; Jars City. Council Bluffs, la.— Accompanied by a noise as loud as thunder, a large me teor fell in the neighborhood o f Coun cil Bluffs shaking the city and causing intense excitement. Searching parties have attempted for some hours to locate the place where the meteor fell, but at a late hour had been able to do so. It is supposed to have fallen in the hills immediately back o f the city. Hundreds o f people heard the explos ion and fe lt the shock, but because the sun was shining at the time, very few saw iL Louise Added Another to Her List. Purchase Above the head of her last custom er she saw her own face with fine lines of weariness showing about the eyea and purplish depression at each nostril. She patted a lock of her hair Into place and went on talking. "Black Is too somber for you. You need color and height,” she Bet the green turban in place. “ Is not this your Idea?" "It Is Indeed!" said the woman. And Louise added another purchaser to her IUL It was closing time now. She pinned on her own simple black hat, restful looking after the extravagant shapes ind pronounced colors she had han dled all day, donned her black coat and gloves, and walked out of the ■tore alone. It had been raining all the after noon, but now the rain had ceased, leaving the streets unpleasantly w et Louise usually walked home rather than hang to a strap In a crowded car. But tonight she decided that she preferred the car. As usual it was packed with homegoers. She appro priated a strap and hung upon It wearily. As the car jolted around a curve she lost her balance somewhat and her shoulder came in sudden sharp contact with a larger one— the ulster-dad shoulder of a man who waa cllngln to a strap opposite her own He turned at her tow "pardon 1" and they looked Into each other's faces closely. His was thin and dark—a face not noticeable In any way save for Its strength and a oert&ln three- cornered ecar above the left eyebrow. Only one man In the world, Louise knew, had such a scar as that and she had given It to him. Into her mind flashed the memory of a scene— a boy end girl quarreling. The girl had Exposition Tax Opposed. Mansfield, La.— The farmers’ union o f Louisiana appears to be opposed to the special Panama exposition tax as provided for in recent acts o f the leg islature. The Desoto parish division o f the farmers’ union, in convention here, attended by leaders o f the move ment from all over the state, went on record by almost an unanimous vote in BURNS CAN AFFORD TO SMILE opposition to the proposed tax. When the resolution was offered pledging English Cabinet Ministar's Salary members o f the union to vote against Raised $15,000 a Year— Socialists the tax, a prolonged discussion ensued, Shake Him Off. after which the vote was taken. John Burns, ex-workman and now Paris Has Lynching. one of hla Britannic majesty's cabinet Paris— Paris witnessed a demons ministers, can afford to smile at those tration o f lynch law in the heart o f the who are always throwing It In his capital Sunday, August 7. A police teeth that he once sold: “N o man Is man was about to arrest an apache in worth more than (2,500 a year." Hon the Boulevard Sebastopol when the est John’s department, the local gov man fired at him with a revolver. The ernment board, has been raised, along bullet wounded the policeman and with the board of trade, to the rank of killed a man passing on the street A a first class state department, and ac crowd speedily gathered, seized the cordingly the salaries of the beads apache and hanged him to a lamp post. have been raised by parliamentary resolution from $10,000 to $25,000 a rear. Woman Hit by Ball Sues. This la not had for a man who ao- Kansas City— Alleging that a base ball batted foul struck her on the cheek oording to his statement In "Who's and thus caused a permanent disfigure Who" la “ atlll learning and (till strug ment, Miss Hazel Wilson has sued the gling." Hla former Socialist friends owners o f the local American Asso have shaken him off, but with their ciation baseball team for $20,000 dam exception the country approves the ages. Miss Wilson says that i f the prime minister's praise of hla col box in which she was sitting had been league for the "assiduity and single properly screened the accident would mlndednees with which Mr. Burns baa administered his deportment." Mr. not have happened. been Ironing some noil dom es an a1 she had a tiny flatiron In her hand An grily she flung the Iron at the mock ing face opposite, and struck It; the boy (ell with a trickle of blood across 1 his white cheek from an ugly wound which had resulted In an ugly scar— this scar. Of course she knew him. ‘T in sure 1 can't be mistaken. It Is Duncan, Isn't It?” "It certainly la, Louise, llow do you do?' their free hands m et "This la as pleasant as It Is unexpected How glad 1 am to see you again." Bhe smiled. Fourteen years spent T IS difficult to Interest In serving an exacting public had any woman In fashions taught her self-control. Just now. She Is watch "And 1 am Just as glad to see you. ing for what Is to come But how do you come here? I thought and caring little for you were In Oregon." what has passed. It Is "I came east about two weeks ago. , too hot, too humid, too urged by a hunger to see the old fatiguing to bother one's places and the old faces. Business head with anything so brought me Into town today.” exacting as clothes. They fell Into me conversation of She knows that her head must be renewed acquaintance, ever mindful of the strangers who might he listening troubled with this problem In (lx more By the time they bad reached the weeks, and she Is saving up her vital house where Louise boarded she had ity for that time. She has got her received and accepted from him an In clothes for summer, and she has no vitation to dine and to attend the the idea of getting her clothes for winter. She wants to enjoy the open air, the ater afterward new book. Iced meals on the awning- He waited In the parlor while she shaded veranda. Aa far os It la pos went upstairs to dress. The Instant sible she wants to be let alone. She her door closed upon her Louise for Is quite willing to listen to any over got that she had been overtired and ture to pleasure, but she Is active nervous; she felt buoyant, elated. Col- ly opposed to any effort toward work, or came to her cheeks and light to writes Anne Rlttenhouse, In the New her eyes. And, oh. what should she York Times. wear? It was so long since she had She may want to wear the clothes been out to dinner. And with a man— she has, but she may not be able to Duncan!— ah, there was that catch at do I t It Is rare Indeed when a wom her heart again! Duncan of the scar! an la not compelled through Inclina As her trembling hands turned and tion or some forces of circumstances colled the lengths of her hair she to rearrange her wardrobe in every looked at her excited face In the glass season, no matter how well It la and wondered If he still tnought it as planned. fair aa It had been 14 years ago, when She may regard the heated and lan he had last seen I t She had just guorous midsummer os the most Irri come from her apprenticeship In New tating time to think about anything York, so highly recommended, how so simple os a blouse or so terrifying ever, that Marshall Mills had felt It as a hat and a gown, but ten to one safe In Intrusting to her the bonnet ing of his feminine customers. She she must do I t This Is true of each of the four seasons. To save herself had been so happy, so eager. From a poor girl, with do talent save the hith trouble she may use all her wits to erto doubtful one of tying bows and ward planning and perfecting a ward sticking flowers together, she saw her robe that will leave her free for tha self In a way to earn a good living. rest of the season, but her best laid Money was so much needed in her ilans will go awry. Some Good New Ideas, family. As for her beauty, It had not She will learn there are midsummer yet developed sufficiently to be of In terest to herself or any one else. fashions as soon as she begins to ex When Duncan More, with who she had periment with them. She will be sur clever played and fought as a little girl and prised to learn how many been on friendly terms with ever since things are Introduced In a dull sea he hod asked her to marry him, Bhe son to keep up Interest, and how real had been shocked. That Duncan should ly satisfactory these are when tried wish to marry her! It was absurd, out Some of them are entirely new; oth and she told him so. “ I won't marry anyone. I want to ers were Invented much earlier in the season, but in the rush of many new work!” she aald hotly. "W ell,” Duncan bad replied, tossing things they were allowed to pass by his hat In the air and catching It ab without notice. The designers themselves take sently, "then It’s the west for mine. Goodby Lou, maybe you'll never see great pleasure In introducing scraps of new things. In applying new meth me again.” ods, In playing with new Ideas, when For 14 years she had heard almost the bulk of the work la over and the nothing concerning him. She con frensled demand for clothes has some ceived the notion that be was not do what ceased. One designer, noted ing so well aa he m ight He had never tor charming things, says that she been able to keep the money he gets all her Inspirations after June. earned. Louise had always felt In clined to scoff at him aa lacking essen She explains this by the fearful rush of the spring, when every woman tially some qualities, but tonight she wants all her gowns at the same forgot that Bhe waa so genuinely time, and no leisure la allowed for glad to see him. She had never suggestions or Inspiration. dreamed she could be so glad. As long aa women must look at She went down to him such a vision clothes and make them or buy them it as might have dazzled eyes more used Is wise to know some of the Interest to the conventionalities of life than ing things that are being done in mid Duncan's. He stammered out a com summer gowns. Embroidering white pliment. Then he handed her out to embroidery with colors Is a truly the taxicab that stood waiting to take pleasant touch that la brought into them first to a restaurant, then to the favor and gains new followers each beet play of the season. day. "1 don't know why it Is," Louise The eyelet embroidery is bought In mused, going home, "but we seem to the real or Imitation varieties, and night to he better friends than ever then Its openings are overcast with before In our Uvea." vivid tones In mercerized wash floss. "It's because we are older," be an The pale blues and pinks which. In swered, “ and experience has taught other days, every woman chose, have us the value of some extremely vital given way to Intense colors, such as thlngB. Of friendship and perhaps also red, green, purple, black, and yel of love. You must know Louise, that low. 1 came back to see you. to learn what These are mixed In with several my long absence had meant to you other tones, and sometimes three or You see. I always felt that there would four colors are used In strong contrast come a time when you would be glad to each other. to see me, when life would mean Can Be Dons at Homs. , something more to you than French This work can be done at home, mllUnery." He laid his hand over although It become tedious If attempt her two clasped ones. “ Has the time ed in large quantities. The best part come?" he asked breathlessly. of it Is that a small piece of It goes "Yes," Louise said, and her vol.e far. The method of the day Is to use vibrated In a way new to him. “ I very little trimming, but make that guess I have had too many hats and little most brilliant and Important. A too little companlshonp— friendship— patch of scarlet and yellow embroid sympathy, love. Since mothed died ery on a dead white gown la effective and my sister married and went away and artistic. A mass of this embroid I have been alone. It Is an awful ery la not thing to be alone. I’ve had chances The entirely square blouse la com to marry, of course, but there has ing more Into use every day. The never been any man save one that I patterns for It are extremely simple. was willing to— to marry.” They require the material to be fold Suddenly she threw her arms about ed over to the required depth, a circle him and sank against hla shoulder cut for the neck and straight under aobblng a little wildly: arm seams cut In one with straight “Oh. Duncan, I never want, to tie an underaleevo seams. As you easily other bow In all my life! I want to see, there Is little sewing to do. The cook and sweep and bake in a house underarm seams are stitched up, as of my own. for somebody— I— love and are the seams under the sleeves. The who loves me. It has taken me four front Is opened, hemmed back and teen years to find It out. but tonight buttoned, and the trimming Is what I know—I know— ” one deslrea. As he held her close, hushing her There Is nothing new about cre dear confession with glad kisses, the tonne coats. They were worn last taxicab stopped and the chauffeur set year, but they have been brought out wondering what had happened to his again In a popular way. Sometimes fares. the cretonne la merely used as a moat O J Burns has an effective way of silencing NEW TYPES OF RESPIRATION his Socialist critics. He Intends to devote hla Increase o f $15,000 to so- Nreathlng Exercises That Are Bald clal and economic projects In which by Medical Experts to Be ef he Is Interested. Certainly be Is not Great Value. altering hla plain way of living. Hla modest house In the far from arlato- : An Interesting explanation of the cratlc district of Battersea still suits different types of breathing Is given him. In the Medical Record. The writer He hates show o f any sort, and his saya: wife would not be happy without her "The normal type of breathing sa housework. (The keeps no servants lats in children of both sexes up to but a day girl and an occasional scrub the age when the lives of girls and woman.—London Letter New York boys begin to differ and their dress to Sun. change. Then, owing to the donning Important trimming It la applied to a homespun linen In any color de sired. Banda of It are put at all edges. Including a four-inch hem at the bottom. There la a wide Incroyable collar, buttons covered with cretonne, and wide cuffs that flare back over the el bow on a short sleeve. These coats reach to half way be tween the knees and hips, and many of them are cut away In front They are put over thin white frocks, and some women wear them with foulard, marquisette, and veiling. They are rather prettier over white than anything else. It may not be an ultra nice suggestion, but If a frock Is a little worn or not altogether fresh the coat, like charity, covers much. It gives distinction to what would be commonplace. The smart ones are all cretonne, and the colors chosen are soft and cool looking rather than vivid and glaring. There Is an attempt on the part of the ultra-smart designers to substitute these coats by tapestry ones, that give the same effect, but which are quite warm. Virtue In Tapeatry Coats. They nan only be worn on the coast or in the mountains. The cretonne le far the better choice for our climate unless one Is going to spend vacation days In a cool climate, where there are formal social affairs. If the tapeatry coat, however, re mains in fashion until next autumn It will make rather a pleasing garment for afternoon affairs. It will be mode Morning Gown of Dotted Foulard. In an ornate style, with frills of good lace at neck and elbows, and will b e fastened with gemmed buttons set ln- rlma of metal. This Is the theory; It may not ma terialize. Women may not like this coat, and It will not last. It has Ita advantages, and I see no reason why It should not hare a fair trial when- the cold weather comes In. The Long-Line Effect. Which same might he entitled “the long-line effect and how to get IL” For all of us must look like sylpba nowadays, and If Nature has been un kind. she must be gently assisted to kindness Nothing succeeds for this purpose, with the woman whose clothes are o f her own deviling, like the vertical band running down the front of the one-piece frock, almost from chin to toes. The gown may open In this manner, so that there Is a row of fabric-cover ed or pearl buttons or of braid frogs all down the front, caught at the waist by a loose girdle. Many of the new skirts s I bo open In the front, seem ing nothing but wide oblongs of dress goods wrapped about the form femi nine. Then there Is the tunic effect. A tucked underskirt and a tunic slashed down from the frilled Dutch collar to below the knees will make one look delightfully long and slim. Moreover, simple defining embroid ery will do a great deal; and there Is always the sash, appropriately draped and fastened at shoulder and knee. And the applied strip of embroidery over net. or of braiding, or dress goods figured In a contrasting color to the plain fabric, always succeeds In Its effects, especially when the whole skirt lu vertically plaited In wide folds and the appllqued hand reaches entirely to the low-cut neck. The Important thing to remember Is not to undo the effect, laboriously gained, of the straight front line by wide frills or tucks elsewhere In the gown. Let everything be subdued to this one feature, so that the Idea eg length la accentuated. And so, all hall to the long-line ef- fecL make use of both the diaphragm and the ribs. The necessary object la to maintain the respiratory Interval, and expand the chest It Is a mistake to suppose that because a man Is an ath lete therefore he breathes well. A man may be a good athlete and a bad breather. "Binging and blowing may be added to the other exercises. A permanent Increase In the expansion of the chest may be obtained by exercises. A ll sorts of exercises that develop the movements of the trunk are valuable. Extension and flexion of the trank, and of the limbs with the body fixed, both In the dorsal position and stand ing, are valuable. “ Acrobatic gymnastics arc useless and may be Injurious as far as Increas ing respiration Is concerned. They tetanlse the thorax and develop the muscles of the arms rathsr than those of the thorax. Oraduated exercise* o f the shoulders, trunk and thorax are In dispensable.” of the conet the type of respiration in the girl becomes entirely superior, cos tal or diaphragmatic, while that of her brother remains of the Inferior costal type, the normal and desirable ooe. Maurice Fauré, In the Oasette dee Hopltaux, brings oat these facta In an interesting way. “ Because the corset Immobilises the College Boy. lower part of the thorax tha woman’s type Is the costal It results from a re "M y boy's back from college." “ How does be take bold on the pression. a degeneration of the normal farm?" type. The primary object of respira It is better to teach Individuals bow “I halnt seen him make no cane-rush tory education la to cause the child to to live today than bow people lived »reserve Its costal respiration and in the pest for the woodpUa.” Too Optimistlo. “ I was pinched for being too opt! mlstlc." “ Aw, come off." "F a c t I thought the stock I was selling would be worth something some day.”
