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About East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current | View Entire Issue (March 21, 2015)
Page 4C East Oregonian EAT, DRINK & EXPLORE Saturday, March 21, 2015 Getting evenly roasted Brussels sprouts is all about space By SARA MOULTON Associated Press With Passover looming, I thought it might be nice to suggest a side dish — roasted Brussels sprouts — to complement the feast’s traditional items. Brussels sprouts are the tiniest member of the cabbage family. And I’ll confess that I used to hate them. In the old days they were not only boiled, but boiled to death, which generated a truly unfortunate aroma. Happily, intrepid chefs in recent years have managed to reinvent (not to say redeem) these little stinkers in any number of ways. One of my favorite restaurant preparations is roasted Brussels sprouts. This recipe cuts down the time required to prep them as well as the time they need to spend in the oven. The right tool for the job, prep-wise, is a food SURFHVVRU¿WWHGZLWKWKHVOLFLQJGLVN2QFH you’ve trimmed the bottoms of the sprouts by hand, it takes no time at all to slice them thinly with the processor. Once sliced, the sprouts get tender very quickly in the oven. How to roast Brussels sprouts? Just as you would any vegetable. But the goal is not sim- ply to cook them, but to brown them, which FRQFHQWUDWHVWKHLUÀDYRU7KHRYHQVKRXOGEH hot, 400 F. The vegetables, well-seasoned, should be spread out in shallow pans. If they are crowded on top of each other, they will steam. Not good. You want them to roast. To ensure the Brussels sprouts have the desired elbow room, I spread the slices over multiple sheet pans. This does mean switch- ing the placement of the pans in the oven several times during roasting — as well as stirring the sprouts occasionally — but the even browning is worth it. If you’d rather not have to juggle the sheet pans in the oven at the last minute, you can cook the sprouts an hour or so ahead of time, transfer them all to one sheet pan, then warm them at 350 F for 5 minutes. Speaking from personal experience, I promise that this recipe will turn Brussels sprouts haters into lovers. ——— Sara Moulton was executive chef at Gourmet magazine for nearly 25 years, and spent a decade hosting several Food Network shows. She currently stars in public television’s “Sara’s Weeknight Meals” and has written three cookbooks, including “Sara Moulton’s Everyday Family Dinners.” AP Photo/Matthew Mead This Feb. 23 photo shows roasted Brussels sprouts with Matzo Walnut crumbs. Roasted brussels sprouts with matzo-walnut crumbs AP Photo/Matthew Mead This Feb. 23 photo shows one step in the process of making roasted Brussels sprouts with Matzo Walnut crumbs. Getting to know the darker side of cardamom By AARTI SEQUEIRA Associated Press If delicate green carda- mom pods are the queen of spices, black cardamom PLJKWEH0DOH¿FHQW Like the Disney char- acter, the spice is shrouded in a black shell, wrinkled and gnarled, intimidating at ¿UVWJODQFHDQGHYHQDW¿UVW sniff. Unlike green carda- mom’s sweet perfume of ÀRZHUVSLQHDQGOHPRQWKH scent of black cardamom is intense, rooted in smoke, camphor and resin. /LNH0DOH¿FHQWZKR apparently only turned to the dark side once her wings were clipped (if the $QJHOLQD-ROLH¿OPLVWREH believed!), I like to think that black cardamom was AP Photo/Matthew Mead RQFHDKDSS\ÀRZHU\OLWWOH This Feb. 2 photo shows black cardamom orange flourless chocolate cake. pod before being dried over This little missy isn’t an some people assert. She’s DQGDGGWRDÀDQNVWHDN RSHQÀDPHVOLFNLQJDWKHU inferior version of the queen her own personality, thank marinade of cumin, cinna- husks and turning her dark, of spices, as I’ve heard you very much. mon, brown sugar and apple funky and smoky. Since black cardamom cider vinegar. Saute a pod in is such an assertive spice, a some ghee or butter before little goes a long way. And adding rice to make a quick it works especially well in aromatic pilaf. long-cooking preparations, Or, in a highly unortho- where the full nuance of the dox (but nevertheless tasty!) little pod can express itself. sweet preparation, pair it ,Q,QGLDLWLVXVHGWRÀDYRU with some orange juice, cin- aromatic curries and some namon and chocolate in this versions of a warm spice JRUJHRXVÀRXUOHVVFKRFRODWH mix called garam masala. cake, a heady way to end It’s also found in Chinese your Passover seder. cooking and in one of the ——— most famous dishes of Viet- Food Network star Aarti nam, pho. Sequeira is the author of In your everyday cook- “Aarti Paarti: An Ameri- ing, you could add a pod can Kitchen with an Indian AP Photo/Matthew Mead Soul.” She blogs at http:// This Feb. 2 photo shows black and green cardamom to your chili, stew or pot roast. Grind up the seeds www.AartiPaarti.com . pods next to some orange slices. Black cardamom-orange flourless chocolate cake 6WDUWWR¿QLVK1 1/2 hours (30 minutes active), plus cooling 6HUYLQJV 12 • Coconut oil • 1 1/4 cups raw whole almonds (with skins) • 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar, divided • 6 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped • 4 black cardamom pods • 7 green cardamom pods • 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon • 1/2 cup cocoa powder • Juice and zest of 1 large orange (about 1/2 cup juice and 2 teaspoons zest) • 6 large eggs, separated • Kosher salt • Powdered sugar, to dust Heat the oven to 350 F. Rub an even coating of coconut oil over the bottom of a 9-inch springform pan. Place the pan on baking sheet and set aside. In a food processor, combine the almonds and 1/4 FXSRIWKHVXJDU3URFHVVXQWLO¿QH$GGWKHFKRFRODWH WKHQFRQWLQXHWRSURFHVVXQWLOD¿QHO\PLOOHGSRZGHU forms. Using a mortar and pestle, pound both varieties of cardamom pods until the husks open. Remove and GLVFDUGWKHKXVNVWKHQSRXQGWKHVHHGVWRD¿QHSRZGHU Pour into a small bowl. Whisk in the cinnamon, cocoa powder, and the orange juice and zest until smooth. In a medium bowl, whisk the egg yolks with 1/2 cup RIWKHVXJDUXQWLOVLJQL¿FDQWO\WKLFNHQHG6WLULQWKH cocoa mixture and the almond-chocolate mixture. In a large bowl, use an electric mixer to whisk the egg whites and a pinch of salt until soft peaks form. Gradually add the remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar and continue whisking until stiff peaks form. Working in 3 batches, fold the whites into the yolk mixture. Pour the batter into the prepared springform pan, then place the sheet pan in the middle of the oven. Cook for 40 to 50 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted at the center comes out clean. Cool to room temperature, then run a paring knife around the perimeter of the cake and release the sides of the pan. If desired, dust the cake with powdered sugar, then cut into thin slices and serve. Nutrition information per serving: 260 calories; 140 calories from fat (54 percent of total calories); 16 g fat (5 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 110 mg cholesterol; 28 g FDUERK\GUDWHJ¿EHUJVXJDUJSURWHLQPJ sodium. 6WDUWWR¿QLVK1 hour (35 minutes active) 6HUYLQJV6 • 1 sheet matzo bread • 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided • Kosher salt and ground black pepper • 1/3 cup walnuts or pine nuts • 1 1/2 pounds Brussels sprouts Heat the oven to 350 F. Coat 2 baking sheets with cooking spray. Set the matzo on a rimmed baking sheet. Use 1 tablespoon of the olive oil to brush both sides. Season with salt and pepper. Add the nuts to the sheet pan, then set in the oven. As soon as the matzo is golden brown, remove it from the oven. Continue baking the nuts until toasted, 3 to 4 minutes for pine nuts and 6 to 8 minutes for walnuts. Let the matzo and nuts cool. Set the matzo and nuts in a zip-close plastic bag, then pound gently with a mallet or rolling pin until evenly crushed. Set aside. Increase the oven tempera- ture to 400 F. Trim off and discard the ends of the Brussels VSURXWV8VLQJDIRRGSURFHVVRU¿WWHGZLWKLWVWKLQQHVW slicing blade, slice the sprouts. Spread the sliced sprouts evenly between the 2 prepared baking sheets. Drizzle each pan with 1 1/2 tablespoons of the olive oil, 1/2 teaspoon of salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Toss well, then roast on the oven upper shelf until golden brown, 15 minutes, turning the pans and stirring the sprouts every 5 minutes. Transfer the roasted sprouts to a bowl. Add the matzo-nut mixture, toss well, then serve right away. Nutrition information per serving: 190 calories; 120 calories from fat (63 percent of total calories); 14 g fat (1.5 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 0 mg choles- WHUROJFDUERK\GUDWHJ¿EHUJVXJDUJ protein; 230 mg sodium. EAT-SHOP-PLAY Exploring Pendleton, Milton-Freewater, Mission, Pilot Rock & Walla Walla Supporting local businesses, will also support members of your own community that pay taxes, serve on committees, teach our children, and serve our needs. Every dollar that is spent locally helps retain our local businesses, and benefits the future of our community. Elite Guns & Bows 213 SE 2nd, Pendleton OR 97801 541-276-1243 Mon. - Fri. 9am-6pm, Sat. 9am-3pm Kelly Lumber Supply Inc. 1211 Tutuilla Road, Pendleton, OR 97801 541-278-4446 www.kellylumber.com “Proud to Support our Community” Kelly Lumber Supply Elite Guns & Bows
