East Oregonian : E.O., March 13, 1920, DAILY EVENING EDITION, Image 19

DECREED BY DAME FASHION FOR MILDER DAYS
Snappy and Sensible Suggestions
For the Most Discriminative
WOMEN luvo to affect mannish
lines In their costumes, and
for tola reason the suspender
Idea which has again sprung Into
prominence with the awakening of
spring Is aura to find favor. It la
used frequently on skirts Intended for
sports wear and Is developed In many
modified forms. One type la hers Il
lustrated. Tho material that first
cornea to mind when considering auch
a model as this is linen. The skirt has
tha knack of looking intricate In Its
make-up, while In reality It la not so
difficult as you will aee on examina
tion. For Instance, the front panel
and the side and back yoke are cut In
one. To the bottom of the yolro the
rest of the material forming the skirt
Is Joined with slight fullness.
Every sports skirt boasts of an In
teresting girdle. This one follows the
multitude and takes unto itself a one
pleco arrangement with taba, which
extend upward And downward. Be
neath the lower tabs tolas pieces of
linen are stitched and drawn to the
back through plcotcd slots, where they
disappear beneath the girdle.
Now, for tho suspenders. Two pieces
of braid are-used for them, knotted
and looped and slipped over the
square buttona fastened to the upper
taba. The manner In which the sus
penders are passed through slots in
tha cowl collar aerre to unite the
blouse, by tha war, might bo fashion
ed of organdie to match the color of
the skirt. Tha ahaped place In the
front, tha collar and the odd cuffs
might be of linen. The braid la knot
ted, looped and made Into tassels to
grace the buttona on the lower tabs.
At the Ides of these tabs pockots are
Inserted.
For Street Wear.
"I'm positively shabby; 1 haven't
a thing to wear on the street and yet I
thought I had eo many clothes." This
Is the plaint which almost every wom
an Is uttering at this time of year. The
first spring days foynd her with a win
ter coat that drags on her shoulders,
or a! frock too fuaay for street wear.
Truly the hardest clothes to select are
thoso for the street, whether for shop
ping, to and from business or Just
promenading.
There la a variety, however, in street
clothes, and as yon aelect with a view
to the most use you are going to make
or the first spring street costume and
always with a conservative eye, you
will not have such a hard time of It.
Kor lustance, you may have a smart
dress like that pictured of serge and
i-atln or taffeta. A serge frock for
spring in only practical when It 1h
combined with allk to relieve the
weight. The frock shown may be very
eastly combined with silk, making the
Inserted plain section, the cuffs, collar
und t-pauleta of silk and the rest of
the frock serge or by reversing tho
combination. Georgette crepe Is also
being combined with serge to smart
advantage, but this combination Is not
nearly so prnctlcal as taffeta of a soft
weave.
More of rieata.
Everything shows pleats somewhoro
this spring, and this frock is no excep
tion. The pleats supposedly run from
shoulder to hem at each side of a front
and back panel and are held In place
by the Insert of plain material on the
skirt, which, by the war, helps to give
a barreled effect to the silhouette. The
frock Is built on chemlso lines and Is
girdled at will by a Saab, of the silk.
The dress may slip on over the head.
If an opening of a few Inches Is left at
one sldo of the front. The epaulet
shoulders are a distinct fashion fea
ture. The full turnback cuffs are
mounted on a silk undcrslervc, which
is attached to' the fuller cloth sleeve
Just below the elbow, where It narrows
sufficiently.
A street suit of rather unusual lines
for the girl who has a plain sports or
tailored suit to back her up Is shown
on the figure with the umbrella. This
"SI HELfTUL
I FQRTHE ItXBEHfE
A apoonful of vinegar in hot lard will
prevent doughnuts from absorbing tho
fat
To clean furs, moisten bran with hot
water, rub fur with it, and dry with a
flannel, then rub with a piece of mus
lin and some dry bran.
Take two tablespoons of salt, tie In
n piece of Btrong white cloth and when
frying pancakes rub your hot spider
with it instead of using lard. It will
make them a nice brown and leavo no
odor or smudge In the room.
Windows can be cleaned In the wlti-
oould almost be a suit dress and in
that case tha coat need not ba lined,
except down the aldea of tha front and
around tha Cull skirt edge, where a
puff of wind la apt to blow It up and
show rough seams. That Japanese
character of the whole ault demands a
silken lining of Japanese color design
for these facings, also for sleeve and
collar linings. Tha coat la cut with a
point at the elbow exactly like the
sqffare kimono sleeve. 3 ash and col
lar help uft this Oriental allusion.
These coat sleeves call be made' full
length, but the new three-quarter
length Is' chosen here, the long blouse
aleeve being allowed to show. Sash
end and collar corners can be elab
orated with braids In the colore of the
coat lining, or bits of the sllt outlined
with braid could be applied. A girdle
of the silk will fill In If the coat Is to
be used as part of a suit dress. The
skirt is very plain. Using a deep
Oriental bluo cloth with gold-figured
Cheery Set of
Breakfast Linens
FOR the small breakfast table In a
threc-and-bath apartment, when
one does not want to lay a
formal table more than onco a day,
since books and lamp must be remov
ed from tho large center table so that
the damask cloth may be spread, little
breakfast sots cheerfully embroidered
In bright color are delightful.
One of these sets Is of half-bleached
art linen, a soft beautifully woven
Irish linen in a creamy tone. On the
table square and on all the small
breakfast napkins arc embroidered lit
tle baskets filled with flowers, one
basket to each napkin In a corner.
And four baskets on the squaro one
In each corner.
First buttonhole all the pieces at the
edge, turning a very narrow hem first
and doing the buttonholing with blue
worsted. The baskets ara worked with
black worsted and the flowers are done
with gay bued wool, rose plak, scarlet
and blue, with green for the leaves.
A few Trench knots In a group will
make each flower, and tho leaves
should be worked aolld, falling over the
edge of the graceful little basket
Do the basket In a criss-cross lattice
stitch," and, of course, make a tall
looped handle atandlng above the tiny
basket.
ter and the frost entirely removed by
using a gill of alcohol to a pint of hot
water.
Handkerchiefs, towels or laces can
be bleached by washing In the usual
way and then allowed to stand over
night In a solution of half teaspoon
cream of tartar to each quart of wa
ter used.
An easy way to wash small silver Is
to ptace it in a colander, put tho col
ander In the dish pan, wash and then
lift colander with silver out of water.
It saves time. -
silk for tha lining, this ault or dress
would be absolutely lit keeping with
present styles, and yet not. too consplo
uoua for atreet wear.
The third figure wears ault liberal
ly braided and of a cut calulated to
land dignity. It could ba developed In
broadcloth, lightweight velour or
duvetyne, heavy shantung, or even
wool Jersey, while the standby serge,
STREET CLOTHES OF QUIET
gabardine and trlcotlne suggest them
selves Immediately. The braiding can
be self color on a Contrasting silk, or
a contrasting color on self-toned silk,
l or such a combination beige and
nary blue are always very good. The
pocket Inset on the coat are bound
with bands of the silk, stitched only on
the Inner edge. Collar, revers which
ANY GIRL
Tmrday of the home milliner Is at
hand, and the reason Is that
bat ' are so conservative In
shape and so guiltless of involved
trimming that almost any girl who has
the least skill and good taste can
fashion her own headgear.
There are several ways of making
the hat at home. One may cover a
frame of buckram or wire, shape the
hat from straw braid, crochet or knit a
hat, or cover an old straw shape. This
last suggestion comes more In the line
of renovating, but It requires Just as
much taste and originality as in mak
ing a whole new hat. Thus in cousld-
erlng the dark silk bat shown wi
square appliqued pieces on tho
one can readily sec how this sugges
tion, could be uSed in covering a sun
burnt panama. The under sidc'oCa
Panama hat is usually In good condi
tion, and if it Is in a good shape with a
comparatively high crown, the edge
can be trimmed down slightly and
stitched around the machine to keep it
from fraying. The silk covering is
then cut to fit. The best way to do
this for any bat is to take tissue paper
and pin it to the hat, brim and crown
separately until you have a smooth
pattern. All fullness should be token
up In darts, which will not be neces-
button over the braided vest, cuff
bands and edging and sash are all of
tha same allk. The coat really snaps
at the aide under tha silk rarer, the
braided veat serving to cover a blouse
completely. This pattern, too, may ba
developed a a dress, leaving a blouse
out of the question.
Women have come to know only too
well the handlncss of the "little taf-
tela suit," as they call It, the dressy
suit of taffeta or poplin with a Jacket
which can be removed and leave a
dressy blouse beneath. It is a cross
between tho tailored suit of cloth and
tho dressy frock of silk, and for
women who attend many afternoon af
fairs Is a distinctly valuable garment.
Now here is a suggestion for the
CAN MAKE THESE HATS
sary In tho allk, as the paper pat
tern can be cut at the back or one
side to make It Ho smooth on the ma
terial. Sometimes a brim can he
stretched Into shape from a bias strip
of material. The crown will usually
require a circular pleco of material,
stretched tightly and gathered sev
eral places at the base of the crown;
or a circular piece can be cut just to
lie over the top of the crown, w hile a
bias band will circle the crown and
bold the top piece In place.
To get back to the panama hat,
however, the best results can be had
by selecting a sports silk In some
bright color, allowing enough on the
brim to ba turned under on the wrong
lh the i
7
" little taffeta ault" If you want one,,
and If yon are looking for tha coat
drees yon can make use of tha same
Ideas embodied la thla sketch, tor the
soft shirred material In front can ba
of something soft and white and can
ba attached permanently In the front
of the trig little Jacket
There Is nothing very unusual about
thla Jacket, except tha tabbed fronts,
DISTINCTION
which turn up, to match the tabs on
the skirt, and the use of a piece of
Oriental embroidery right across tho
front In a deep girdle fashion to liven
up the costume. This Introduction of
the Oriental 1b almost a necessity on
clothes at the present writing. Tho
sleeves of the Jacket are raglan and
made to fit rather snugly. They flare
side so that the edge can be stitched
on the machine for a good finish. Con
trasting stitching will trim as well a;
hold the covering securely. The trim
ming of this hat consists of square
pieces of light colored linen or silk, or
better still, of the panama straw, If
you have cut away the brim, held on
vjlth etrands of bright-colored wool or
chenille. Thus, an effective hat will
result from the use of a medium blue
silk, with green chenille for the stem
stitches and the straw pieces held on
with rose-colored chenille. The cost
of this hat would be a negligible
quantity.
The large hat with the upturned
brim is smartness personified for the
right girl, but very trying to the wrong
type who needs a drooping brim to
soften her features. This is an excel
lent hat for a linen model. It should
be made over a buckram frame, using
two tones of linen, the more becoming
near the face. Thus tan and brown,
gray and orange, gray and blue, purple
and gold, etc., could be combined with
startling results. Bits of the facing
should he used for the appliqued
pieces on the crown. Wool or heavy
Hie Essentials for
Care of
m mtOUGH lack of knowledge of
Just what to do and how to oare
tnr mnr master nlant when
you receive them much of your antlcl-
pated pleasure Is lost by the fact that
they remain in flower such a ahort
time.
The general course pursued by flor
ists to have all their plants In state
of perfection for Easter week I to
force them along In quite a warm tem
perature until they are sure they will
flower In time for the Master trade,
Then tho plants are taken to cool
at the wrist to give a graceful line.
The skirt is a perfectly straight
model, preferably a three-gored pat- a worth much care and attention Bit
tern, relying solely on its front tabs cr Eastor.
to give It distinction and to relate It , Tlaat Bumble, Barly.
to the Jacket. The suit In one of tho . . , , .
. j ... ,,, Tha rambler and other pot roses
lovely new shades which silk poplins ,
are showing would repay any efforts ! P1nted out of doors as soon
of tho home dressmaker.
This in Your
Medicine Chest ?
ONE of the commonest of articles
to be found In the home medl-
etna cheat Is the Jar of vaseline.
but how many know the range of Its
uses? Did you ever take It for colds,
swallow It by the teaspoonful for
cough or sore throat? It will often
work wonders. Some people rub it on
the chest for the same purpose. It has
been known to relieve neuralgia and
rheumatism.
Vaseline for the dry. Itching scalp la
good If rubbed in the night before a
shampoo Is In order.
Fur healing sores and wounds ft Is
the homeliest remedy at hand.
When you ara unfortunate to burn
yourself, rub on vaseline and powder
with bicarbonate of soda.
For soft oorns, vaseline rubbed on
old linen and placed between the toes
will help to cure the sore spots.
Rubbing vaseline on callous spots Is
another use which some do not know
of.
r-0
FADS.
The colonial pump is the smart shoe
of the season. Both flannel and chal
lus are being used for blouses on tai
lored lines. One model of the trouser
skirt has the skirt invisibly attached to
the ankles.
Oilcloth strappings and motifs are
incorporated with embroidery and silk
stitching on costumes of satin, broad
cloth and velours.
embroidery twist can be used here and
a third color Introduced thereby.
Another linen hat is shown with a
broad brim, tho crown run with long
Stitches of contrasting wool. This is
not built over a buckram frame,
though a w ire Is run through the linen
hem around the edge of the brim to
keep It outright. The crown is soft,
but for practical purposes a band of
buckram can be used for 'the crown
foundation and will give something to
attach the brim to. Crown and brim
joining is held by the softly folded
band of linen tied in a single knot
across the front, the ends being run
with the wool and finished with wool
crossed balls of the linen.
Proper
Easter Flowers
houses to "harden up" end
great deal of air.
Naturally. In thla process of
they are kept vary wet at the root
and syringed frequently over the tops,
this syringing sometime being done
twloa a day.
Condition of Plants.
I write of thla so you will under
atand the changed conditions Into
which a plant la placed when brought
Into our homes, where the atmosphen-
is dry and warm. It la usually placed
in a window and possibly the first day
we fall to give It any water, and the
second day not perhaps before 10
day i
In the
o'clock In The morning, and even then
only a little la placed on the surface
of each pot, which In an hour, owing to
the dry atmosphere, ha evaporated.
In It any wonder that before tha
evening of the second day we And thai
plant wilting and the flowers lying
over the pots?
You all desire to have your flowers
attractive and fresh-looking as long as
possible, sad you will bars no diffi
culty It you will only give them tha
same treatment they receive before
tearing tha greenhouse. As soon as
you receive the plant, before placing
It In tha window, giro It a thoroagB
soaking. To dampen ft Is of little M
and the results very disappointing, but
wetting thoroughly at tha roots stiff).
ens, freshens and revives the flower,
Use Plenty of Water.
In tha ease especially of ax areas and
hydrangeas, it la necessary to stand!
t hem In bucket Of water for at ssaaf
tan minutes twloa a day. This ssxns)
method of watering applies to many
other Easter plants.
Almost all tha plants that flower a
thla season will remain In full blocaa
and every tiny bud will unfold aaatssal
of blighting If they are thus treated.
And what aa added pleasure It Is to
see our plants fresh and attractive tor
many days Instead of drying, wilting
and shriveling, as Is so often the case.
In a few hours!
Many of our expensive Easter plants
are consigned in a few days after East
er to the ash barrel or convenient
dump; while a few of the cheaper oaea
bloom only once, a lona list of them
as possible after flowering. Never lay
them on their side or set them In an
odd corner to dry. Plant the ram
blers where they can clamber over ar
bors, trellises and fences and the bush
rosea in other suitable locations. As
they are perfectly hardy, plant them
where they will remain permanently,
They may turn a little yellow at first,
but they will soon become accustomed
to the change and start to grow,
To preserve axaleas they should ba
plunged In the ground In tha flower
border pot .and all. If tha weather la
very dry they will require watering
throughout the summer and fall. On
the approach of frost lift them, clean
oft 018 DOts. P'ce tham In a cool wln-
dow in a room with little or no heat
and keep them moderately damp antH
toward spring, whan they should be
watered dally aa they approach the
flowering season.
Easter would be robbed of a lot U
there were no lilies. Keep your Unas
In pot until the middle of May, when
you should plant them in the open
border. The tops will die. away, but
almost Invariably they will form a
new bulb and flower again In lata An
guat All the many varieties of bulbous
stock, such as hyacinths, tulips and
crocus, when they are through bloom
ing can be planted out In the open
ground. Here they will come up year
after year and flower very abundantly.
The flowers will never be quite eo
large as they were the first year, but
they will be attractive. Many try to
Sower these, bulbs In the house after
the first year, but this tsnt practical
Better plant them In the border.
O
UKLHOTHERl
USEMTj
MAKE, Will
Hamburg Steaks on Rounds of Toast
Have fresh Hamburg steak, say half
a pound, or cut a piece of tender steak
half inch thick with a sharp knif
scrape off soft part till there is noth
ing left but tough stringy fibres. Sea
son the pulp with salt and pepper;
make It Into little flat, round cakes,
half inch thick, and broil them for
two minutes. Serve them on rounds
of buttered toast.
lour hot water in a NUK pan or oth
er utensils befoie heating milk In It
and milk will not burn so readily.
S3