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About Willamette farmer. (Salem, Or.) 1869-1887 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 17, 1886)
r u h X .g VOL. XVIII. OREGON PIONEER HISTORY. .SKETCHES OP EARLY DAYS. -MEM AN TIMES IN THE FORTIES BY.8. A CLARKE Opjrrlsiht tpplleJ far. All rl?htt referred NUMBER XXXIII. Circumnavigating the Continent, Coming to Oregon by Sea In ISSO. For a variety from tlio almost mon otony of Uint universal nolo of travel "across the- plains," I am minded to change tho thomo for once, to tell how J camo to Oregon by ocenn voyage, threo of them at that, having sailed tens of thousanda'of miles over tho Atlantic ocean, tho Caribbean sea, and then by two other long voyages following tho trackless way tho Spanish voyagers took in tho sixtoonth century, up tho west shore of tho continont and along tho northern const that tho mythical San J nan dc Fuca mayor may not liavo sailed. I was young, nnd tho inspira tion of now lauds and strungo countries was then easily gained from current works of travel. I had turned my eyes, when oxactly 20 years of nge, to far distant Oregon. I had read Irving't) "Astoria" and "Uonnoville," and tho travels of Lewis it Clarke. At that timo Fremont was earning his titlo of "Pathfinder." I had lived for somo yoars in Charleston, S. C, and was visit ing my good mother ono summer at our Now England homo. I was thinking of Oregon, and, looking up to my mo ther, said that I was strongly minded to find my way to Oregon. I roincmbcr as plain as day that thoro was no im mediate answer; tho dear woman was figuring tho distanco and tho timo in her mind, to count up tho probabilities, in coso I went so far, of my over re turning in hor lifetime. There was a sort of maternal despotism that ruled our fate, and n decision rendered was boyond appeal. She took off and wiped tho gold-towed glasses, and, placing thorn on tho top of her head, turned to mo and said : "My son, never say that to mo again!" and I never did. I saw all it meant, and felt what it did not say, that Oregon was too far away then, evor to hope to soo me if I went. oit for r.u.inmsiA. Time smoothes distances as easily as it measures hopes. Two years nioro saw tho discovery of gold, and nil tho world flocking by land and tea to the golden shore. I had loft tho sunny south, with its terrible gloom, that a fow years lator burst into civil war, nnd carried my elder brother into its maolstrnm of secession nnd doath, and was then liv ing in tho west, (Ohio.) My mother had come there to pass a winter with me. Winter was over and spring had come. Somo had already como back from tho promised land, and tales of California wero as rifo as flowers in May, and full as gorgeous in coloring. A cousin of mine, an old sea captain twico my age, and full of lifo's'ndvonturea to tho very brim, had talked ovor the matter to me, and joined with him in wishing to try life on tho Pacific. Wo concluded to go, and maternal consent was no longer wanting. We telegraphed to Now York for steamer tickets and then wont on, to bo thero on the day of starting. I re member how, tho last timo I over saw my mother, she stood in the doorway of our home, and said: "My son, como back next year!" I heard them repeated as I went dojvn tho streot, and called back gleefully "Threo years, mother, threo years!" So in early April, 1850, Capt. William Haker and myself started towards tho Pacific, thinking of Oregon as our ulterior resort, and so it proved. Arriving at New York tho agent of Messrs. Rowland & Aspinwall politely and decidedly declined to give us tickets. Wo wero informed that tho company had made n mistake and sold moro tickets than by law allowed, and wo wero of the overplus This was SALEM, OREGON, FRIDAY, mortifying. Tho noxtstenmer? That was full ; so was tho next and tho next, to go by that lino wo should havo to wait for mouths. So wo knocked our heels together for a whilo and waited "for something to turn up." Ono day tho captain camo into 13 Broadway, and said a bark anchored oil tho battery was to sail for Chagrcs, and wo could take passago to tho isthmus in hor. So wo shut our oyos to the future and em barked for Chajros. Tho "old salt" who was my partner in adventure, said wo would find somo way from thore. Just then all tho world and his sisters, his cousins nnd his aunts, as well ns tho mules of creation, woro bound for tho Golden (lute. How to squcozo into somo ship nt Panama was n conundrum thnt wo afterwards found only money would solvo. Tho Nncoochco camo from Maine. Her ekippor was n down-caster all over and so was his wife. Their sou and heir was a promising lad of 0, who earned a dozon thrashings n day and never got them. It might havo boon worse, but tho skipper's boy was bad onougli. His mother was "nil hands nnd tho cook," nnd her lord, tho captain, wns ns clover n man ns tho sun shono on. So on tho 2ilth of April wo went on board nnd tho Nacoochco wont off to sea. "Tho world wns mino oyster" sure enough, and big nnd wido and round as it was, it scomod all before us that beautiful spring season, when wo jour noyctl ovor unknown sens towards un known lands nnd hung our hopos on tho uncortnintics of regions ns strnngo to us its tho moon. Dashing through nnd pnrting wavo after wave, wo went on and n, nnd nil tho uncertainty of a lifotimo seem piled into that voyago, when liko tho ancient Argonauts, wo searched an unknown world. A PIRATICAL KI'lHODj:. For days nnd wocks wo sailed south ward, nnd tho Nacoochco'ri wifo nnd son raised nn occasional rumpus by "tricks that were vain." Hut wo combined forces and held our own against nil odds. Thoro wero it few very decent people in tho cnbin, and two young follows tho writer nnd Addison 0. Gibbs, who lived to bo Oregon's second governor. Wo skimmed tho Gulf stream and ono day in May found ourselvos shoit of water nnd hugging n north western projection of Sna Domingo. It was decided that tho barque was to anchor nnd scud a boat into n crook that put into tho bay to fill somo water casks to tako on board. This would oc cupy two days, nnd to pass tho timo somo of us landed at a village easily seen from tho ship, to hnvo a lark nshore. As wo landed wo wero received with extraordinary honors in fact, by a mil- tnry guard, who cscortod us to tho village guard house. Wo cracked ranny n joke ns wo wero parndod up tho bench to this public building. Tho guard was far ahead of tho army in Flanders in tho extent and variety of coatumo nnd want of costume. Ono would havo a cocked hat nnd no brooches; others wear coat, pants or vest, nnd oxperienco somo notable lack of complotoncss in equipment. Imngino a broadcloth coat nnd heavy cocked hat, in that climate, too, in May! It was too funny for any thing. Tho funniest part of the business was that wo woro actually under urrest as prisoners and suspected of boing pirate.". It seems that tho near neighbors of thoi-o San Domingo folks had played thorn somo scurvy tricks. Cuba was in sight on tho weathertow as wo bore down on San Domingo, and they wero almost in sight of each other. Somo piratical Spaniards had como in small crafts and ravaged their islund, and worst of all had carried on" their peoplo to Blavery. Thoy woro trying to decide if wo were of this sort, and whilo mak ing up thfir minds got together the loyal guard and marshaled in to tho public calnboose. This nluch wo learned through KlUIer, a Frenchman, who was ' our fellow passcngor. Ho was half brother to tho famous dnnsouee, then in all her glory, nnd one of tho most famous dnncors that evor lived. Ho understood their language n mongrel French but could not satisfy their fears nnd suspicions of evil. So wo fretted tho day nwny in durance vilo and were not allowed to frisk about as wo hnd expected, nnd unablo to onjoy tho tropical luxurinnco around us. Fin ally tho ship's mnto nnd Ellsler woro put on top of mules or donkoys and sent away under guard to n sonport at a distanco of twelvo miles, where tho Frenchman proved his own identity, ns thoy rcmombercd that two years boforo ho hnd porformed ns n magician in thnt very town. Ho tho great Amorionn nation was recognized by tho agency if n wizzard, sleight-of-hand sort of French man. MATTKIIS IN SA.V D0MIXU0. Tho skillful nnd orudito Kllslor wns quito an addition to our sliip'B compa ny. Ho wns n lnrgo man, not corpu lont but lnrgo frnmo nnd with wonder ful activity. As a traveling magician nnd nligbt-of-hnnd porformcr ho hnd been all over tho world, timo nnd again, and could spin yarns from week's cud to cud thnt mndo tho youthful Qibbs, who hnd soon but littlo of tho world nt thnt timo and was making his first ven ture awny from home, open his eyes tho widest. Ho wns dnrk-cyod nnd swarthy ns a Spaniard.' Ho oxfJiincd tho condi tion of things wo saw nt Hnyti by sny- ing thnt years ago Napoleon tried to sulnluo San Domingo, or Hnyti, nnd sent 10,000 troops thero, who fell before tho dendly climate, whilo tho mongrel rnco more negro than anything clso nnd moro Indian blood in them than white had only to follow nround nnd pick up tho uniform nnd equipments of tho defeated Frenchmen. Thus thoy heenmo poPHossod of tho seedy coats nnd chnpenux, tho rusty sabors nnd carbines wo saw in use, nnd though thnt hnd lcen mnny yoars ago, thoy kept them secure for display as occasion should require. It was not so much (ho garments and equipments theio veterans wore and carried thnt win surprising its tho way they woro nnd carried them. Iloro would bo a thico-corncrcd lint of an officer with its rich plume of black feathers on tho top nml wholly top too of a man as black as Africa affords, mid no other garment save a ragged pair of dirty duck pants that tied by tho waist; thoro wns n braided cloth coat worn boIus over ho carcass of a pot-belliod ancient who nlso woro a straw hat nnd ragged trousers. So it went, only tho com mnnder hnd on anything liko n suit of clothes. Catching somo inkling of their talk I interposed a fow words in Frcuoli nnd wns rospoctod all the more. Wo wero expecting to hnvo a lively timo chnfiing and trading on tho beach nnd rather regretted tho necessity of wasting timo in what wo thought wns intended ns nu official reception, nnd so it wns, but hardly such as wo likod. Wo woro prepared to mako fun of anything and marched to calaboose with each a guard of two blncks nnd imagined thcro wns lots of fun in it. OVER THE TRUJ'IL- EAK. As some compensation for their ill- founded suspicions they promsisetl to send us on bonrd tho next morning, n boat load of chickens, eggs, provisions, meats, fruits and vegetables Wo wore anticipating groat sport, but during tho night a favoring wind camo up and wo sailed away. Capt. McClintock what a iiamo for a down-oastcr! cared moro for n good wind in tho sail than a boat load of provihions, nnd whon wo climbod on deck in tho morning tho Nncoochoo was bounding on tho billows of tho great Carribbean sea. To our right loomed tho level shores of Cuba, "tho ever faith ful isle" that costs Spain to many mil lions. Heforo wo reached San Domlgo, one moonlight night, wo had skirted the SEPTEMBER 17, 18S(. shores of Cuba, nnd as I sat on deck and saw tho silvory sheen of moonlight on tho rustling waters nnd its darker shades on tho distant line of shore, thcro camo thoughts of n past whon my father's home was not far away, on thoso ridgos ; when 1 wns a child there ; of a cluster of graves on a gcntlo slope I rcmombor;of orango and mango groves, and pineapples, and how I sailed nnd snilod nwny from graves of father, broth ers nnd sisters to get back with my mollior to our Now Knglnnd homo' A memory picture without a frmue, but truo in every feature That voyago through tho Caribbean sen is ono of tho "things of beauty that aro a joy forever." Wo were cut looso from timo nnd homo nnd nil tho world nnd beginning a now quest for fortune Tho scorching days wero spout lolling and rending under tho shadow of a sail or a canvas awning. Ono day ilorce, hot showers, steamed over tho wators and uocmed to suck up from tho sea around boiling cauldrons of wrath. Thoy were waterspouts, and tho enptain had his carronndo ready to croato n con cussion of tho air to demolish tho eaicmy in caso any soothing spout might como our way. 1 lo may not hnvo cared much for tho pascngors, ns nil hnd paid their passago nshoro, but ho didn't want tho Nacoochco to go up tho spout in tho Carribbean sea. Wo dodged tho wntor spouts for days through, and they gavo variety to our lifu. r Wo watched flying fish and son life all nround us. a nsii STORY. Ouo day wo baited a big hook with n chunk of salt jwrk and sot it trolling by n htrong lino in tho wako of tho ship, to tempt tho dainty appotito of a half grown shark that had been for days picking up tho offal from tho cook's galley. Wo had noticed tho pilot fish that necompaniod him. Kvery shark has this boautiful fish for company, and sometimes two of them. Tho pilot fish seems to toll tho shark what to do, and to bo nu inseparable companion. Ho may havo given him bad ndvicn about thnt chunk of pork, for after awhile tho big savage turned over and mndo n snap at the bait, and was a gouo shark. Kvcry ono may not know that a shark turns on his b.ick to take any prey. Tho shapo of his mouth requires it. Sud denly tho cry wont out that tho shnrk wns caught. Tho mate had manaircd the fishing, and hu allowed tho follow to bo toweil uwhilu to wear out his extra enthusinHin. Wo had a momorablo time of it getting the shark on board, but finally managed to laud him on deck. Thero wns nothing about it worth keoping except somo of tho skin, which answers for Hnndpn)cr when dry. Wo then watched tho poor pilot fish, that didn't know what to mako of his friend's disappearance. After awlillo wo hot a bait for him also, and had pilot fish for supper. It was n benutifully mnrkod fish, atom sixteen inches long. In this way wo varied tho monotony of sea life, and passed the many days wo wero bo calmod in tho Southern mas. Wo oc casionally saw other sails, or tho smoko of somo steamer would go by, when the Nacoochco lay like "A painted uliip upon punted ocean." A.VCIIOUKU IN Till: (IIAIJRKS RIVER. In those beautiful nights of Mny tho tropio seas woro entrancing. Mnny an hour I looked ovor the stern and watched tho rudder-way, anil looked back on tho trail loft by tho moving ship, where tho rumpled waters show with a phosphorescent glow that soomod liko fairyland or son. There, too, tho moon nnd stars had a significance not felt ashore, for our ikipper read thorn and learned his way from them in a maiuior that scwnwl very wonderful to "aland lubber." ft was evident from tho anxiety shown by the captain that wo wen' nearin our port, and, suro eivxi,"!), ouo day the laud of CVntial America hovo in sight. At early morn ing n sugar-loaf cik of the mighty NO. 32. Andes was visible, looking nt us ovor the waters nnd serving ns n sign board for tho fcca. Wo ran down tho coast with this sharp and rather unique monu ment for a guide ; by its nid wo steered a correct course, And townrd noon, with favoring wind, wo entered tho Chagrcs river under command of ono of tho pilots of that country, n soa-going man of somo queer nationality, who took us in safely and anchored tho Nncoochoo close under the gnus of a fortress of tho United States of Central Amoricn. Chagrcs was thou a grcnt point for all the tivlo and commerce of California via the Isthmus route thero. Thoro was no Panama railroad, no Aspinwall, no line of steamers, as now, though tho firm of 1 lowland it Aspinwall was coin ing millions by its tralllc. Stopping n day nt Chngros, wo chartered n boat to ascend tho famous river to Gargonn, whence thcro was a mountain trail across tho isthmus to Pniiamn. Chagrcs was then a wild, cut-throat sort of a place, whore thousands of mon gam bled, and drank, nnd swore fonrfully, though thoy could not safely drink liquors ns thoy could in northern lati tudes. Wo looked In n small sized "holl," whoro looso women nnd looser mon dealt tho favorito Spanish gamo inontc. I found hero n cousin of mine own from St. Augustino, in Florida, who was trying to do n commission and forwarding business. Ho did do it for n whilo, though ho managed not to II vo very long to do it Ho was a strungo being, whoso lifo was full of ad ventures j bravo, rash, gonorous, gay, loyal to friends nnd to enemies, and ns bravo nnd venturcsomo in business as n cavalier of tho olden time or a knight of tho round table IIIVKR TRAVEL IN TIIK TROPICS. At Chngros. wo chartered n rowboat capable of accommodating sovcral and their baggngo. Thou somo half it dozon of us wont pushing, poling and rowing up tho Chagrcs as fast or as slow ns our lazy boatmen would furnish propelling power. It wns a uniquo voyage. Tho dusky citizou of Columbia who owned the boat had n tnntloy crow and several of them put forth their ouergies in various ways. .Sometimes thoy sat nnd pulled at tho oars, and sometimes thoy took long poles nnd shoved against n rapid current thnt was too much for mere oarsmen. Thoy worked forward nnd walked along the guu-wnlos, whilo tho half dozen of uh who woro passen gers reclined under the shade of nn awning that mndo n retreat from tho scorching sun. It wns somothing we were not used to, thnt tropical sconory, tho trees bonding far out from shore and pondent with vinos nnd quaint mosses. Tho various spocimons of "an imated nature" thnt camo within our range of vision whoro tropical birds with variegated plumngo, pnrrots and paro quets, and agilo armed and nimble footed monkeys climbed among tho overhanging brancheu, and with mis chief in their oyes. Chattering as thoy did it, thoy threw small missilos nt us as wo passed beneath their haunts. It was all frosh and now; tho modest villages wo saw on the shores woro filled with attraction. Tho natives had be come accustomed to tho presenco of white men, and it was no now sight for thorn to go up in river boats us wo did. Thoy associated tho sight of us with tho thoughts of plunder, nnd overyono wo mot hod "speculation in his oyo" ns, ho looked on us. At night wo tied up at tho bank and nil slept. Tho first poop of day was a sign for now effort. Wo got food of ranches along tho river and "made a livo of it" comfortably. rVwu A vtT lilli lirwl tin nllrrul Mm. cry is a mild word to doscribo tho mis chief to body and mind caused by habit ual constipation, mo regular use ui Ayor's Pills, in mild doses, will restore tho torpiil viacru hoalthy action. Vitriol, fifteon iiouniU f Jr ono dollar at Port .fc Son's, 100 State street.