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About The Oregon statesman. (Salem, Or.) 1916-1980 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 23, 1936)
Silhouette Is All-Important Diversity Evident in New Furs; Casual, Fitted i- . lines Are Rivals - Generally speaking:, there are fire - individual categories into whirh this season's fur coat in terests tall, and although Indi vidually speaking every fur coat is like a specially designed cre ation, let's get a shopper's eye view of the trends from which we'll be able to choose. There is the princess coat which invariab ly resorts to shoulder elabora tion plus a small, soft collar. This type of. coat is best de veloped in caracul, Persian lamb, and mink. Secondly we have the long fur eape which Introduces the new straight line and which original ly high style, has been stepped tiorn to' your little budget in a choice of furs including nutria, Alaska sealskin, Hudson seal, and a variety of colored Iapins. Another charmer is the coat of sVagger silhouette with tuxedo rever front, and which is equal ly interesting in purely sport furs, as well as in furs which com plement dressy costumes, espe cially when two furs are com bined, as for instance Hudson sear with tuxedo rerers of Per sian lamb, brown pony with rev era of nutria- or leopard, and even for evening in white broad tail with revere of white fox. Fourth in our silhouette presenta tion is the loose-back swagger which comes in a complete range of lengths, often resorting to the buck-dip hemline for Interest. In this youthfully styled coat, ful ness results from the shoulders yr from a lower; yoke line and swings out in pleated or casual ly rippled fulness. Lastly, we have one of the most flattering coat silhouettes to ever come from a fur designer's workroom and it combines the best ele ments of the princess silhouette and the swagger, by means of a fitted bodice, narrow waistline, and . widely flared skirt, prefer ably of tunic length, and belted. This coat is a favorite in gray dyed lamb, kid furs, Persian lamb. Japanese mink, Alaska sealskin, Hudson seal, and in all the lapin varieties. Style Strategy When clothes are essentially simple as to line, it is the favor Slate Gray 1 A k up for this simplicity in the tricks they play in sleeves and collars: and this season amply shows how much originality there ctn4e displayed. It is by means of fulness that the silhouette is dramatized, and because of the variations in fig ures and heights, this fulness is distributed in three ways so as to. make . a wearable variety of coats for every woman. There is the coat with fulness massed on the shoulders and gradually tap- ring toward the elbow, and fin ally to a very tight wrist. This is a sleeve wearable by the full-liipped.- too-short figure, because It lends a suggestion of height, and "attracts interest to the shoulders, thereby making the hips seem more slender. Secondly we have the sleeve that is moderately soft and full from Moulder to elbow, where it is gathered in and then re leased to a slender elbow-to-wrist line. This is a design of sleeve -vhiclvany woman can wear with impunity, safe in the knowledge that although it is interesting in design, it is nevertheless little v v I . Yvf i 11 " II . "V 1 - An A tailored woolen suit of slate gray with wide lapels and patch pockets Is the choice of Edith Atwater of Culver City, Cal., for autumn and winter wear. Inter national Illustrated News I'hOtO.- i ! ! enoagb-exaggerated to prove flat tering tot her figure. Thirdly we have the sleeve type which is best suited to the woman of moderate and taller ite trick of designers to make pheight. It is a sleeve which has a slightly deep armhole 1 with a silhouette that : is continued . to below the el bow, j where it sud denly broadens out to form either a gathered pouch, or just a point ed peak, from which it continues tapering toward a plain or cuff type wrist. This latter is the one you will see on most fur coats in the shops: but if your figure or height is not well proportion ed, you can have! the furrier re make the sleeve to suit your per sonal requirements. It may very readily be seen that with basic types such as the sleeves we have described, there are varying adap tations, according to the indi vidual style of the coat. In eve ning coats and wraps, for in stance, you will find more thea trical effects: sauarer shoulders, more accentuated points, more voluminous, and more elaborate 6hirred treatments. ' We5 must also consider that manipulation depends largely on the fur selected, j and that it is not wise to borrow 'the style ele ment of a very soft fur and translate it into a very bulky fur. Although all furs are now CONTROt Where NEEDED is the SUCCESS FORMULA of by AMERICAN LADY the Original All-In-One , with DETACHABLE BRASSIERE Some women Tieed Just a bit more restraint across the dia phragm. Others want a foun dation that does things for the - bust. And everyone wants that smooth, unbroken line from bust to thigh this fall. The new fashions demand it. Our answer to the problem Is "Art ist Model." Its detachable bras siere feature makes it possible to give you "control where needed" without any break in "tine. Come In and let us show it to you. " Foundations Prices ....$5.00 to $15.00 Extra Bras Prices ....-.$1.98 to $3.50 , Miss Goff, representing American Lady, la here all this week tT give you your correct figure analysis and advise you on correct corseting. THIS SERi'ICE IS KNTIRKIiY FREK! K t ; - '" .V..,.; ' ). . i mmim' -i n n u i so treated that the suppleness of their skins makes them adaptable to the same designs as we see in cloth coats, good taste must be kept In ; mind so that we get the maximum beauty from each garment. Insofar as the collar Is nearest your face, it really should be the most flattering part of yonr coat, and with this simple little fact in jnind, designers have offered us a choice of five perfectly stun ning collar effects, exclusive - of the toxedo-rever and. notched rev er types. These five are utterly new completely different, ; and pleasingly tricky. There Is the bulldog poach, which i perfectly expresses the trend toward small er collars. It comes right tinder the chin, is round and just meets at the center : of the neckline with curved effect. More intricate is the tunnel collar, which gives toe effect of running a crushed section of fur, through and un der a more stiffened "tunnel" of the same fur. The Bayymore collar Is an other contender for fame, and is particularly pleasing on sport coats. Extremely simple, it is very short at tbp back, but - comes around the front to extend In two deep, tapering points '" An other effect in fur collars Is, the standing type, and it is constant ly recurring in all-occasion coats. At times we see It very short, turned up In the back and over in front like a man's wing col lar. The Johnny collar is still with us, and this too. Is worn turned up in back. There are more in teresting treatments such as col lars which seems to be "draped, and shirred, left standing about the neck, giving the impression of upholstery design. In sport furs, we very often see the boat-shaped collar, standing op ' all around, with large buttons outlining the front which dips low enough to keep the chin out of fur. Some times, too, these standing collars are cut out in petal shapes or scalloped outlines which frame the face smartly. The square should ered j collar is favored by the young set, and is reminiscent of the sailor collar, continuing its square outline deep In the back. More often, however, the square effect is gained by means of epaulet-like shoulders, and the back may be left entirely collarless, or with a very, narrow edge of fur extending from shoulder to shoul der. ' . - In a season when so much. that Is dramatic can be Interpreted in to clothes, it is to be expected that we should find a number of novel treatments. There is, for example, the lampshade silhouette, which is expressed in very flat furs. It is Alix who is sponsoring this trend, which is achieved by means of a drawstring through the waistline. The coat is invariably three-quarter length, and smart women wear it .over a pencil-slim dress or skirt thereby giving a very theatrical effect. However. there are ; full length coare, too which advocate this lampshade j silhouette, j and the drawstring j effect of the waistline is often repeated at the neckline. Convertibility is anoth er theme that enters the scene of these picturesque coats, be cause they may just as often be worn without the belt, when they take to a casual silhouette with a full, "swinging" back. Belted, these coats suggest the ballerina silhouette, or Russian trend of former years, but their new suppleness has made them adapt able to newly gained fulness which sometimes makes the coat look as though lit was softly box pleated from the shoulders. Three Predominant Suit Types Are Featured Among Modes for Autumn The fact that so much wear can be gotten from a fall suit adds to the necessity of owning one; and the impre&sireness with which the newest suits is styled makes them a definite want. There are three predominating types to consider. - i . Most practical of all suits ' is the three piece wardrobe' type, which may be either very sporty or semi-dressy in character. De-' eloped In British type tweeds, of? in a wide variety of patterned or solid color fleecy woolens, it is distinguished by the youthful ness of the jacket, which Invar i ably buttons all the way down the front, has a very youthful little collar, and may be worn without a blouse. Topcoats, whether they are full length or three quarter are casual at all times, with pouch or shawl collars in the less formal types, but with tuxedo revers of fur la the dress ler types. Skirts in all instances this year are pencil slim and straight. . In two piece suits the tuxedo rever suit is equally popular, and Is given a dressier aspect by means of the formality of the blouse worn with it. The newest style trend of the season Is the introduction of the tunic suit, with the tunic length coat cut along fitted bodice lines, the skirt flaring to a wide hemline from a belted or unbelted waistline. Fur trimmings are rather elaborate on these types, whether they form collars, cuffs, borders, or cutout appliques on the skirt of the coat. Persian lamb, galyak, chinchilla dyed fox, leopard and kit fox are smartest. For the - youthful figure, and for the girl who likes something more of a costume nature in the way of a suit, the short jacket two piece suit is popular and be coming. Often the jacket Is almost entirely of fur, forming shaped collars, deep plastrons, and deep border sections, with the pepluni packet line quite theatrical look ing. Very high fashion indeed, is the suit with a short cape either entirely or partly of fur. Feat ax ing squared shoulders, or flare that slants to baek depth, the cape has been so designed as to be available in a becoming sil houette for every figure type. Military Stripes Suspenders Vogue - New-fall suspenders are featur ing bright military stripes in nar row or semi narrow elastic webs. The majority of these are finished off with leather tabs, and are fur nished with some sort of action back Ideas that keeps the braces comfortably on the shoulders in the midst of the most violent ac tion. Some of the brakes clip on to the trousers, instead of fastening on with tabs and buttons, and dis play sargeant stripe buckles to fin ish out the regimental Idea. Operation Unavailing CHICAGO, Sept. 23.-(.JP)-BabT Julian Tafel's six days of dis tressed life ended tonight despite a delicate intestinal operation per formed in expectations of saving him from a death of "mercy." V WtJMCL m y 1 u uuuu .r .ar ar w ar ... nr ar m w .bbvh mm You don't need a fortune teller to predict that the new Foil fashions swing high rr. and the sky $ the limit to their smartness! High style smiles on tunics . . .. peplums . . . dresses that flare from the waist and slim your hips. High crowned toppers come forward to show off your curls .and are definite forerunners of the directoire silhouette. Fur trimmed coats in tunic and semi-princess lines cast smart shadows. And how high are fur collars? The hiaher to flatter you, my dear Sportsy knits take their bow and show new interest in hairy mixtures .7. plaid and check designs ."V. and they borrow peplums to dress them up. But that's only half the stbryl Come to (Meyer Both! and see the entire fashion picture I HIGH HATS Daringly new fccrts add a high ond m'tohty smart isoq o vou fdi co$im. Velours and velvets In black, wine and green. SUEDE BAGS Pooches, top handles and envelopes la suede and smooth groined toother BeauitiMV lUed. fined wt $90 SUEDE GLOVES Classic sKp-om in swede or. kid. NeW detoils. Many ore hand stitched ; Btnck er brows la swdsw Block er whit to aid. RINGLESS SHEERS Threw Ihreod afternoon sheers in smart Felt shades. Amply reinforced Abe service SiM t te 79c FAU. FOOTWEAR There's snort foorwork In 1tm wrr cut ahoas for feSL Seed. lud,"soex and looHier cosnibinad. Hes-H-la S195 WOOL FROCKS ToethM, new wool frocks b fin find two pioo Srytss Sono vntvo TUNIC FROCKS Wear a runic and you'll wear tho smartest and latest dress fashion lor f'I $95 Oe satin, printed vlt. oiXl. m ' crepe. Ssm U to 3d KNITTED COATS The perfect coat for all purpose wear - Town-trotting, country. etc. Silk satin lined warmly Interlined. As a"-' -- - i I-'- fh ? - $ """l Ton are iavited te view our : - jfl Th'lpK Vv fjftfct -"ni i rreat expanae of beautMnl I if I iJA NSYl pJw2 i wiadow dieplaye. Wtadewm . i -5lV!r ssC?! 11 BJiveOea at 7:e. . fKr- i-S) ' ) A7 il . v-i slhjA MwAlz? u 25' MILLER'S Salem's Leading Department Store - - SALKM .ORBOON