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About The Oregon statesman. (Salem, Or.) 1916-1980 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 20, 1935)
PAGE TIIHEE Well Dressed Woman Must Wave More Than One Evening Gown Hie OREGON STATESMAN,' Salem, Oregon, Friday Morning,' September 20, 1933 r Two 'Formals' Are Essential Three Distinct Influences ; East Indian, Grecian and Renaissance Salem has more "formal life than most cities of Us site because of state and university functions in addition to the dancing ffnd din ner clubs. ' Every well-dressed woman must have at least two formals, and more if her budget allows. Let's hare a look at the fashion fore - cast so the selection of these most important of gowns will be just right. Much can be said of the .new evening gowns but one thing stands out, and that is that there are three distinct influences. First, we bare the East Indian, which is the result of portraits of a beauteous Maharanee -of In dor shown draped in her native earl, her dainty feet sandalled, her body swathed In ' magnificent fab ries. - secunuiy, iiiciv is iuc ncuan- f sane influence, which finds ex- of rich fabrics and which reach es' its height in the eiqulsiteness of its 'colorings. Thirdly, there is the Tfrecian. ' which appears interpreted in soft folds of fabric, delicate accents such as narrow gold and silver kid belts, and occasional silk rope '" belts tied about the waist, and failing to the hemline with 'deeply f fringed tassels. .."- Dinner Any Hour Dinner at eight, or at any other hour, should find you looking . your very best. If you prefer the less formal type, you will choose a gown with long sleeves, a fully draped skirt, and billowing sleeves either three-quarter or full length. If you want the full expression of . formality, however, you will choose the jacket costume, the ter length or if you are proud of your youthful figure, the -shorter, fitted jacket or if you are as slim as a sub-deb, you will choose the very brief fitted jacket, almost like a peplum-type. The g own under it will approve of the raised neckline, and possibly a .deep -1-Y back, but you won't choose a hal--ter unless your gown is really meant, to be fully formal. Incidentally, these, dinner gown-and-jacket outfits are. very practi cal as they serve' ja? double pur pose . . being suitable for infor mal occasions with the. jacket, and quite proper for gala wear without the jacket Another frequent in fluence in dinner gowns is the cov ered shoulder, effected by means of draped eapelets, while occasion ally we see dropped shoulders (only if your own are beautiful), and more often tbe metallic bod ice combined with a velvet or rich crepe skirt. Strictly Formal It is in strictly formal evening wear that fashion attains full lux ury and elegance with silhouettes . showing new developments. The draped line is most important, be ing of Grecian origin, and gives a statuesque quality in classic and straight, skirt folds. " Hindu influence obeys the draped dictum too, and has signif icent influence on evening trends. In general, the fall and drape of - these straight, though full evening skirts concentrate their fullness at the front, with occasional sweep ing back movement, and occa sional, though less frequent side movement, yet completely ignor ing bias cuts. There will, however, be simple gowns which do advocate the bias cut, for those who do no dare at tempt the strictly new. Another silhouette of importance by night is that which Is very full-skirted, and usually appears in stiffened fabrics whichcan best obey new silhouette lines. In direct con trast to these skirts are the mold ed body sections, almost like the basque type. Fabric and Color The fabrics which make this a season of evening elegance are heavy, lustrous, plain or ham mered satins; heavy sheers which drape exquisitely; rich mefallics; changeable (two-tone) velvets; as well as Lyons and transparent; moires and taffetas, slipper satins, heavy crepes, and rich laces. Col ors favor either very pale . tones; or deep jewel tones inspired by the -. Renaissance. Incidentally, you can choose white if it flatters you, as it is important, next to light blues . and. soft pinks, while black con tinues to be ft sophisticated lead er.! The evening tones of Renais sance influence are dark blues, bright pure reds ranging to deep wine reds,- the rusty Titian red, a gamut of greens, plums, gold and browns. A favored trim of Gre cian influence is the narrow belt of gold or silver kid. PERIOD DOMINATES The period influence continues to be notable in color, silhouette and trimming. Dressier Handbags Obtainable This Fall; Quality Leather Used; Variety In Color Unlimited; Luxury Provided Ton will be huying better hand bags this fall, because there is a dressier trend in all apparel and accessories. ('.. " The fine smooth calf s, supple antelopes and less' costly suedes, and pin grain leathers adopt high style trimmings, and .there are dressier accents including cord ing, quilting and novelty stitching, while the interior of all bags make for greater convenience and greater practicability due to new pocket and zipper construction. Since dressy bags are preferred, pouches come back as most im portant, while envelope bags are meant to wear with swagger clothes, while the top-zipper bag may be styled dressily or sportily. Toull like the swanky top han dles, novel gate frames, and. sew interpretations of the box theme. In tailored bags the smart alli gator grains! lend themselves well to the new colors, but all the novel rough grains of last year have out lived their smartness. True dark browns for tailored and dress wear, gingery browns for sports wear, the attractive new deep greens and deep wine tones are color leaders,, perfectly, keyed : to fabric tones. There are a few smart fabrics, these most often however in the cocktail and evening types, where we also find gold and silver kid. sequins and seed beads. And in all bags the tendency is for the bag silhouette to carry all its style iignlfance, with actual trimmings subdued as antique gold clasps anddainty earasite frames. -. V Fingertip Colors You can 4 have as much color variety in your gloves as you like this fall and winter, for even though blacks, browns and whites continue to be what are called "staples" by the trade, we fanciful-loving women will go in for gingery browns, wines, greens, and rusty tones, as well as some navy blues just in case you're going to wear some of your navy clothes from spring. There's more luxury in leathers, too, with soft glace kids, lot of grand suedes for tailored styles. Sport and Dress Shoes Different Suedes are Smartest With Many Alligator and . Smooth Leathers There will be broad distinction between your sport and dress shoes this fall and winter, and both types are more interesting. more coiorrui, ano more cosiiy looking simultaneously offering better value.: Sport shoes swagger, and still advocate the lower heel, with oxfords and broad straps hav ing heavy rivalry, while monk and ghillie versions don't lag far be hind. The sude leathers are the smart est for jrwagger styles (even our men folks will be wearing suedes) but there are also a great many smooth and alligator grain calfs. All leathers are smooth, and most effect is gained in combining two leathers. In dress shoes smooth calf and kid are smartest, but there'll be suedes for those who like them for dress too, adding the shine of patent leather trim. And if gabard ine shoes pleased you in the early BPring, you can enjoy them again in heavier textures for fall. And when it comes to evening shoes gold and silver kid are classic, while brocades and crepes (to be dyed) will be selected to contrast with the simpler types o( gown. High vs. Low By direct contrast with the low heels favored in sportswear, very high heels will be preferred for dress wear, with broad straps a novelty, and ' glove-fitting, high built silhouettes predominating. These higher shoes are practical for cold weather, and are made more feminine by means of dainty trimmings. Three and four eye let ties are the favored oxford types, occasionally side laced. In the broad strapped types sabot and D'Orgay cuts are smart, with lots of elongated tongues sticking put over the straps. Colonial A little colonial inspiration Is seen in this season of diversified fashions in occasional step - in shoes of glove-fit character, and the T-strap. sandal advocates the broadest strap yet seen. Sandal-ous In fact, the sandal In general, with open or closed toe continues an important style; but most par ticularly for evening wear to com plement the draped gowns of Hin du and Grecian influence, occa sionally giving the statement, "high heels for dress" the He, by Introducing the flat heeled eve ning sandal, i and new dark tones la doeskins and pigskins. You'll like the gloves slashed down the back, clasped around the side, and wrist lengths for swag ger ensembles. And your dressier gloves will feature lots of quilting, tucking. cording, pleating, shirring and button-accents in line with the dressmaker trend. For afternoon and cocktail wear, too, you will want a glove wardrobe in novel fabrics, such as the velvety and satiny looking Bemberg fabrics, and the perfectly luxurious sued- ed leather accents, and look much more costly than they are. Renaissance Mode Has Historic Side ' You probably have, beard and read much of Renaissance influ ence, and if you're not caught np on your history, or your history of art, you may be wondering what it's all about. Maybe we can revive your memory by tell ing you that the richest period of art in all the ages was begun In the thirteenth, greatest of centur ies, and terminated sometime around the middle of the seven teenth century. This period was called the re naissance (or rebirth) of gran deur in art, and Is distinguished by the richness of colors used by the artists of the period, the mag nificence with which they draped the human form, and the elegance of tbe fashions and fabrics worn by the men and women of that time. r ! Today's The term - Renaissance, there fore, has been selected for an in dication of the same richness, tbe same elegance and the same verve of color In this' year's fashions. We have Italian greens and Italian reds, the same deep, vibrant colors which you will find in. paintings by Coreggio, Titian and Raphael. Black velvet, always the king of rich fabrics, is repeatedly used by Itself and to trim other fabrics Sleeves particularly repeat the Re naissance influence, full from shoulder to elbow, with cording, tucking, and jeweled closings at the wrist. Added Attractions Mr. James Knowles, expert shoe fitter from Eana wUl give you the benefit of his shoe fitting you on any of your shoe troubles, FRIDAY It Jettlck factories, knowledge and advice SATURDAY. Mrs. Arabell Folsey, hosiery fashion coordinator for Belle Shar meer hosiery, will be at Miller's all day Friday land Saturday giving expert advice on hosiery fashions, proper sizes,! etc.; Marion Thornton, educational representative of the White King Soap Company, will be in the fabrics section Friday and Saturday to give you expert advice on laundering fine fabrics. ONE-POUND PACKAGE of 'White King soap FREE with purchase of 11.00 or more in washable ready-to-wear, yardage, lingerie, children's wear, etc. MILLER'S DEPARTMENT STORE BAILEY'S Salem9 s Newest Dress Shop CORDIALLY INVITES YOUR INSPECTION OF THEIR New Fall Apparel - featuring better dresses moderately priced : 124 South High St. I . r mwt riirwr-wimirnniif eir mm mi mwr wwr mrisr wnj i (Plan to Attend Salem's Annual Fall Opening Tonight DTPiT EAiTy "ETQ JFDWID v 7:30 o'clock) v ik HERV. is much to be seen on the CO fashion floor. Dresses in colors inspired by paintings of the great masters .'. . tweeds soft as down un 'der your fingers . . . furred coats that 'turn everyday occasions into festiv ity! The price tags will make you Open your eyes in wonuamcm . . they are that lowl 0 0 at .(MAX J A ( i V sC NV 1 I i - k. -J r I'M " A ft' 5 A v J5 SAL1H , ORBCON We have the Knack of Knowing what you are going to ask for We keep our eyes glued on Paris! Every day , finds our receiving room one of the busiest places in the store, unpacking new things from New York. That is why you always are sure of finding the clothes you want most at Miller's. 'hi 'J' - t y -7 a i :&v. vsWi? 1 9y n 3 U7 y 4 - 5 A I ' & " lit ' TV, 4: ACCESSORIES TO MATCH OR CONTRAST! Millinery Footwear Gloves Handbags Jewelry Hosiery Neckwear Scarfs Flowers Kerchiefs Umbrellas ii li t. 'si t i' i it , 'Ml i i i i: ': 1 1 The New Silliottette THE DEFT HAND OF DAME FASHION HAS' GIVEN YOU A NEW SILHOUETTE THIS FALL THAT IS AMAZINGLY DIFFERENT ... HERE ARE THE HIGH POINTS, a fall skirt, a fuller sleeve, draped bodices, side drapes, new necklines, swagger furs, rippled collars. GLAMOUROUS COLOR SCHEMES there's picturesque beauty in these glowing renaissance shades wines, blues, lustrous browns, deep, rich reds and greens. ALL THESE AND MORE, TOO, are to be Xound at Miller's this week. - New coats by the famous house of SHAG MOOR. PRINTZESS and HIRSCH MOUR, dresses from NELLY DON, SNYDER and LAMPL. t ACCESSORIES, none smarter than Perrln gloves, .Red Cross footwear. Holeproof . hosiery. Virginia-Art bags. f ''(9 Fall Opening Windows Unveiled at 7?30 -Tonight! mm