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About The Oregon statesman. (Salem, Or.) 1916-1980 | View Entire Issue (March 20, 1927)
It t Combinations of Fabrics And Colors ProYe Smarf Compose Theme Frequently Carried Out In Afternoon Dress es; Collarless Neckline Markedly Important; Blue Leading Shade "Compose" is a word not found in the English diptionarv, but it is present in its proper place in the French dictionary, and it certainly is very much present in the present scheme of things in fashion. Mysterious as its meaning may be to the uninitiated, it is quite simply translated, and accurately too, by the English word "combination." Combinations are a very strong note in Spring" fashions. Two contrasting colors may be employed in a dress; two, three or four shades of the same color used in a costume is another variant of the compose theme; while two different fabrics or the dull and lustrous side, of the ame fabric are also classed under the heading com pose, although in this instance no color combina tion is used. Last year the tendency toward this trend was noted in the use of a darker shade as collar or bor der, but the true compose costume of this season is not content to let one shade dominate the en semble no, each member of the partnership has equal or nearly equal shares. Blouse of one color or fabric and skirt of another is about the most equitable division that can be obtained, and quite, popular, too. Besides the French grammar, one must needs resort to the geometry textbook of one's school days. That is, one expects to design a, dress. Diagon al insets, chevrons, intricate-curved seamings, all are smart and necessary. Broad stripes or bands also enter the pic ture. It goes without saying, of course, that this is but an other aspect of the combination theme. The insets or stripes may be of a darked hue of the sairie color, or in the case of crepe satin, they are of the lustrous face of the fabric, while the balance of the dress is of the dull side. Speaking of satin well, speaking of it is quite worth while. For there is a great Seafof it being used, much more than is usually customary in spring. This applies to true satin, as well as to crepe satin, which is used "insite out and outside in" as previously discussed. The heavy "silk crepes flat crepe and crepe de chine are he old standbys which we never desert. Several domes tic mills have recently brought out a flat crepe in fast colors, which washes beautifully. It can be purchased by the yard, l course, as well as in dresses all ready to don. Of course, fv order, to wash, the dress must be of simple styling and avoid the use of fine pleating. The introduction of this practical note is really a blessing, for one can choose a light color with a light heart, confident that a little soap and water will renew. it when it becomes soiled. The transparent crepes are just a little less favored this season, although later, on, when the heat of summer makes itself felt, they will probably be revived. Among the wool fabrics seen are kasha, wool crepe, wool jersey (an awful lot of that !) and rep. The Collarless Neckline Is Markedly Important After all the variations of collars we have worn, the collarless neckline is something decidedly new and interest ing. It is most often square, sometimes three-cornered or v-shaped. Curved necklines also appear sans collar. The lack of a collar, however, does not mean that the topmost part of your frock will lack in interest. Square necklines in special are made quite fascinating and flattering by banding of inset pieces of fabric' following the lines of the neck. To follow in logical order down5 the dress, we approach the waist, r the point just before the waist the bolero. It is still with us, at least in suggestion. Embroidery may mark the spot where it would appear, or it may actually appear at the front. The Moused bodice is still making a play for favor, and may be definite or suggested. Hips, slender hips! You may be justly proud of yourself when a swathed girdle tightly encircles you, usually tied, in a bow at center front. That last sounds rather like stage ; di rections, but center front holds the stage, for that is where fullness is quite often applied, usually by means of pleats, 1 When center front is not the instruction of the play wright, side left is. Fullness at the side is often accompanied by a dropped hemline. Skirts, of course, remain short. Surprisingly enough, Paris seems to have given up the attempt to foist long skirts upon us and contrariwise, is making them shorter than ever J just barely covering the knees. Last season, one s friends who had beej abroad, and returned with quite long. dresses, and predicted that we would" soon lengthen our. skirts, but much to their surprise, they were forced, to. shorten theirsi This season's faceabout in Paris is only "another proof of the growing independence of thesAmerican women, and the tact ful acquiescence of the French fashion dictator to her de mands. . v Spring's trimming details all incline toward simplicity. The trickiest of all. is the use of bows. Little bows, big bows, at the shoulder, at waist, at neck. With f lying i ends or flat, smooth and demure. The bow in con junction with the square neck line is very good,' because it softens it and adds a little air of pertness arid of being quite alive. Embroidery is used, although quite sparing ly. A little goes a long way, and the over elab orate effects of former years are discarded in favor of simple effective work in a, single color, or two at most, j Pintucks and stitched pleats and curved and oblique seams are widely used, and, are another in dication of the trend toward simplicity. Blue The Leading Shade Navy blue for early wear, and as summer nears, the lighter shades of blue 1 will come into prominence. Blue is an ideal color for accentuation, as it can be almost universal ly worn. Blondes, bryrinettes, .strawberry blondes, olive skinned maidens or pale Nordic types-.... all can wear blue with success. Navy blue will be combined with- flesh, white or yellow, and other shales-of blue will cmobine in two or three tones. , - More grey will be seen -than, we have seen in many , a year,. and the ever-popular tans and beiges bold their own. Black and white! That means not alone t black and touches of white, but also black with generous portions of white. A white jumper ..titi.Uiil&piwithiblack skirt, often topped by a littfefefless jacket of s. folic and white, isan ever recurring nej; and jbriL Which is boUnd to be successful on account of its' ipfebU.to.httli fnatriin hiid maiden. C Hollywood Fashion " Figures Measlif i HOLLYWOOD. , CL -Women's styles and mathematics .appear to be at two opposite poles. Tnla year, however, you hare to be a mathematician to-figure thenf but. Claire Windsor. Metro-Goldwyh-Mayer player, and one of the Uesl dressed women .on the screen, has figured out; the correct value of clothes according to ratio.-. This Is the way the perfect gown lines up. according to Miss Windsor: ' Skirts should be '14 Inches from the- floor. ...... , . , Sleeves should be 10 inches frojn the wrist. The waistline should be 1 6 inch es from the neck. The smart hat should be worn one-half Inch above the eyebrows. Stockings must come eight Inch es above the knee. & ; s Coats should be two inches long er than the skirt. ,. According, to. Itfiss Windsori'this creates a : perfectly balanced 5 cos tume, iind , conforms to' the mew etyles. Presses . cm.Je. made In a Variety, of ways and - colors. tThe silhouette, may, be anything that is smart, but these figures must" be correct... . - . . .4 ' 5? Adams FMIM Flowers for All Occasions Telephone 890 452 Cbttrt St. ; SALEM, OfcfcGbN t- Washable Crepe Used For Informal Frocks Although it has been used for many seasons some Paris design ed s go right on using washable silk crepes for informal morning and sports dresses for summer. The colors in the new crepes are less ivid than they were last sea son and the stripes are less con spicuous. Many little checks, lit tle plaids and geometrical prints will be used. Jn 1926, lumber cargoes to New York City from Oregon, Washing- ton and California increased about 25 per cent over 1945. 1 YOUTIHIfUL'FlROCIICS FOR- COMES Spring and the desire for new apparel. Chiefly concerned with chic Frocks, the miss and matron will choose from our well -assorted varieties. You will like these unique copies of Paris creations. Luxurious silks, clever trimmings, beautiful colors. See .them and revel! The- nnouncink , QpiMig of QW New Store We Will open the doors of our new store 135 North liberty Tuesday the 22nd And invite all our friends to be with us on that date r i We have spared no expense in niiaxin this the finest store in the Pacific northwest. The con tihuecf increasing patronage of the discrimi nate trade has made this store possible. 1 THE PRICE SHOE CO. '4 - - . . i - ft I SI i! !; ' J lb . '2 MERCHANpCSE OF MERIT r .