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About The Oregon statesman. (Salem, Or.) 1916-1980 | View Entire Issue (March 20, 1927)
Combinations of Fabrics
And Colors ProYe Smarf
Compose Theme Frequently Carried Out In Afternoon Dress
es; Collarless Neckline Markedly Important;
Blue Leading Shade
"Compose" is a word not found in the English diptionarv,
but it is present in its proper place in the French dictionary,
and it certainly is very much present in the present scheme
of things in fashion. Mysterious as its meaning may be to
the uninitiated, it is quite simply translated, and accurately
too, by the English word "combination."
Combinations are a very strong note in Spring" fashions.
Two contrasting colors may be employed in a dress; two,
three or four shades of the same color used in a costume is
another variant of the compose theme; while two different
fabrics or the dull and lustrous side, of the ame
fabric are also classed under the heading com
pose, although in this instance no color combina
tion is used.
Last year the tendency toward this trend was
noted in the use of a darker shade as collar or bor
der, but the true compose costume of this season
is not content to let one shade dominate the en
semble no, each member of the partnership has
equal or nearly equal shares. Blouse of one color
or fabric and skirt of another is about the most
equitable division that can be obtained, and quite,
Besides the French grammar, one must
needs resort to the geometry textbook of one's
school days. That is, one expects to design a, dress. Diagon
al insets, chevrons, intricate-curved seamings, all are smart
and necessary. Broad stripes or bands also enter the pic
ture. It goes without saying, of course, that this is but an
other aspect of the combination theme. The insets or stripes
may be of a darked hue of the sairie color, or in the case of
crepe satin, they are of the lustrous face of the fabric, while
the balance of the dress is of the dull side.
Speaking of satin well, speaking of it is quite worth
while. For there is a great Seafof it being used, much more
than is usually customary in spring. This applies to true
satin, as well as to crepe satin, which is used "insite out and
outside in" as previously discussed.
The heavy "silk crepes flat crepe and crepe de chine
are he old standbys which we never desert. Several domes
tic mills have recently brought out a flat crepe in fast colors,
which washes beautifully. It can be purchased by the yard,
l course, as well as in dresses all ready to don. Of course,
fv order, to wash, the dress must be of simple styling and
avoid the use of fine pleating. The introduction of this
practical note is really a blessing, for one can choose a light
color with a light heart, confident that a little soap and water
will renew. it when it becomes soiled.
The transparent crepes are just a little less favored this
season, although later, on, when the heat of summer makes
itself felt, they will probably be revived. Among the wool
fabrics seen are kasha, wool crepe, wool jersey (an awful lot
of that !) and rep.
The Collarless Neckline Is Markedly Important
After all the variations of collars we have worn, the
collarless neckline is something decidedly new and interest
ing. It is most often square, sometimes three-cornered or
v-shaped. Curved necklines also appear sans collar. The
lack of a collar, however, does not mean that the topmost
part of your frock will lack in interest. Square necklines in
special are made quite fascinating and flattering by banding
of inset pieces of fabric' following the lines of the neck.
To follow in logical order down5 the dress, we approach
the waist, r the point just before the waist the bolero. It
is still with us, at least in suggestion. Embroidery may mark
the spot where it would appear, or it may actually appear at
the front. The Moused bodice is still making a play for favor,
and may be definite or suggested.
Hips, slender hips! You may be justly proud of yourself
when a swathed girdle tightly encircles you, usually tied, in a
bow at center front. That last sounds rather like stage ; di
rections, but center front holds the stage, for that is where
fullness is quite often applied, usually by means of pleats, 1
When center front is not the instruction of the play
wright, side left is. Fullness at the side is often accompanied
by a dropped hemline.
Skirts, of course, remain short. Surprisingly enough,
Paris seems to have given up the attempt to foist long skirts
upon us and contrariwise, is making them shorter than ever J
just barely covering the knees. Last season, one s friends
who had beej abroad, and returned with quite long. dresses,
and predicted that we would" soon lengthen our. skirts, but
much to their surprise, they were forced, to. shorten theirsi
This season's faceabout in Paris is only "another proof of the
growing independence of thesAmerican women, and the tact
ful acquiescence of the French fashion dictator to her de
mands. . v
Spring's trimming details all incline toward
simplicity. The trickiest of all. is the use of bows.
Little bows, big bows, at the shoulder, at waist,
at neck. With f lying i ends or flat, smooth and
demure. The bow in con junction with the square
neck line is very good,' because it softens it and
adds a little air of pertness arid of being quite
Embroidery is used, although quite sparing
ly. A little goes a long way, and the over elab
orate effects of former years are discarded in
favor of simple effective work in a, single color,
or two at most, j
Pintucks and stitched pleats and curved and
oblique seams are widely used, and, are another in
dication of the trend toward simplicity.
Blue The Leading Shade
Navy blue for early wear, and as summer nears, the
lighter shades of blue 1 will come into prominence. Blue is
an ideal color for accentuation, as it can be almost universal
ly worn. Blondes, bryrinettes, .strawberry blondes, olive
skinned maidens or pale Nordic types-.... all can wear blue
with success. Navy blue will be combined with- flesh, white
or yellow, and other shales-of blue will cmobine in two or
three tones. , -
More grey will be seen -than, we have seen in many , a
year,. and the ever-popular tans and beiges bold their own.
Black and white! That means not alone t black and touches
of white, but also black with generous portions of white. A
white jumper ..titi.Uiil&piwithiblack skirt, often
topped by a littfefefless jacket of s. folic and white, isan
ever recurring nej; and jbriL Which is boUnd to be successful
on account of its' ipfebU.to.httli fnatriin hiid maiden. C
" Figures Measlif i
HOLLYWOOD. , CL -Women's
styles and mathematics .appear to
be at two opposite poles. Tnla
year, however, you hare to be a
mathematician to-figure thenf but.
Claire Windsor. Metro-Goldwyh-Mayer
player, and one of the Uesl
dressed women .on the screen, has
figured out; the correct value of
clothes according to ratio.-. This
Is the way the perfect gown lines
up. according to Miss Windsor: '
Skirts should be '14 Inches from
the- floor. ...... , .
, Sleeves should be 10 inches
frojn the wrist.
The waistline should be 1 6 inch
es from the neck.
The smart hat should be worn
one-half Inch above the eyebrows.
Stockings must come eight Inch
es above the knee. & ;
s Coats should be two inches long
er than the skirt.
,. According, to. Itfiss Windsori'this
creates a : perfectly balanced 5 cos
tume, iind , conforms to' the mew
etyles. Presses . cm.Je. made In a
Variety, of ways and - colors. tThe
silhouette, may, be anything that is
smart, but these figures must" be
correct... . - . .
.4 ' 5?
Flowers for All Occasions
Telephone 890 452 Cbttrt St. ;
SALEM, OfcfcGbN t-
Washable Crepe Used
For Informal Frocks
Although it has been used for
many seasons some Paris design
ed s go right on using washable
silk crepes for informal morning
and sports dresses for summer.
The colors in the new crepes are
less ivid than they were last sea
son and the stripes are less con
spicuous. Many little checks, lit
tle plaids and geometrical prints
will be used.
Jn 1926, lumber cargoes to New
York City from Oregon, Washing-
ton and California increased about
25 per cent over 1945.
COMES Spring and the desire for new apparel. Chiefly
concerned with chic Frocks, the miss and matron will
choose from our well -assorted varieties. You will like
these unique copies of Paris creations. Luxurious silks,
clever trimmings, beautiful colors. See .them and revel!
QpiMig of QW New Store
We Will open the doors of our new store
135 North liberty
Tuesday the 22nd
And invite all our friends to be with us on that date
We have spared no expense in niiaxin this the
finest store in the Pacific northwest. The con
tihuecf increasing patronage of the discrimi
nate trade has made this store possible. 1
THE PRICE SHOE CO.
- - . . i - ft I
' J lb
. '2 MERCHANpCSE OF MERIT r .