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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Jan. 5, 1919)
THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTLAND, SUNDAY MORNING, JANUARY 5, 191 Gowns ayette Styles by Jeannette Hope Text by Caroline Harper Design by E. J. Buckmat. Text by Adelaide Byrd Io Worlt wii the L Ribbons and Laces Disguise Old Satin THESE are festal times, and there must be festal frocks to cele brate in. It's Just a bit late In the season, tho, to be thinking about a brand-new evening gown, but urely there's one from last year that has touching-up possibilities. SO get out the gown, for here are the touches. It's really wonderful what a little bit of chiffon can do to change the whole complexion of a dress. Consider the delightful pair, that of the charm ing shoulder drapes, and its neighbor with the sashed and sleeveless over . blouse. , The draping touch Is easy to do. The dress may be surplice, ' like the on sketched, or simply straight across, but most of its charm lies in the draping of a long-mitered wisp of chiffon, low over each shoulder, it is caught once on the arm with a bright bit of embroidery, and again Just be low the line of the bust. For the overblouse, which can easily be got out of a straight length of material witn little cutting beyond an oval .for the neck and a bit of s hap- Silk on Velvet and IT'S A DANCE, of course. But good ness, what's a dance without a dance frock. prayT Still there ls no good -reason why you should stay home Just because you haven't a new frock to go in, and more particularly when you have an available afternoon dress to transform. Here are two es pecially bright idea-for you. Milady with the fringed tunic over Mouse simply omitted the lining and sleeves of her velvet afternoon dress and topped the whole off with a contrasting Blip of befringed satin. There Is vir tually no cot to this overblouse, in fact, the bodice of it might he a perfectly straight length with oval bole for the ing at the sides, a. combination of plain and figured chiffon ' would be lovely. The sash, tho attached in back, is easily not in one with the blouse. Is there one of those unfinished look ing evening frocks of silk or satin in the wardrobe? It seems that every wardrobe must contain one. It seems, too. that every workbag must have some bits of really good lace. That plus some three or four yards of nar row ribbon ought, "in the hands of an ingemous person, .disguise any dress. Note the effectiveness of the draping in the dress sketched. Perfectly straight and narrow pieces, they are with their ends mitered; they are --ugbt In the midflle. The "ribbon treatment is obvious. Speaking of ribbon, tho. one would never suspect it of changing a sil houette until confronted 'with a typical example, like this dress, with the very modish barrel tendencies. One very successful way to make the full skirt How Ribbon Can Change the Silhouette The Afternoon Frock in Evening Role Vice Versa neck, and undone side seams to simu late a quite deep armhole. The skirt part, equally straight and slightly gath ered had better come separate. Its decoration is a very effective use of row after row of narrow fringe. Let the slip.be satin, of course. A little sashed overblouse of velvet makes an effective top-off for the after noon dress of satin. The one shown isn't especially hard to do. Most any round-necked blouse pattern will answer. Extend the shoulder line Into sleeve cape and the side closing into sash ends. For decoration a bit of beadwork or colorful embroidery about the neck is artistic enough. scant without any subtracting from Its actual wjdth or Its grace is to shorten ft a bit and gather the bottom of It to quite a deep cuff of ribbon. A crushed sash of the same ribbon is a fetching complement. The Transforming Bit of Chiffon WHAT IS NEW IN DRESS AND ACCESSORIES DEAR POLLY-O: Do you know, I've been think ing awfully hard about that fair flapper niece of yours, perhaps be cause of my promise last week to tell you about clothes that would Interest her. Well, I have been seeing the very most cunning things that ever happened in "Jeune fllle" fashions, and, of course, I can't keep a per fectly good thing like that to myself, you know. Really, my dear, if circumstances didn't limit me to a city home and a job that calls for dignity in dress, I'd go in for those attached blouse and skirt frocks myself. They come in such Instantly appealing combina ations as serge and linen, and velvet and crepe de chine. I will give you the details of the two I saw and straightway fell In love with. Straight box-pleated serge In navy? blue, made the .skirt of number one. With quite large smoke pearl buttons it attached itself to the sportiest of light-blue linen blouses. Number two was designed for more dressy purposes, for a wonderfully rich brown velveteen with side pleats and darling front and back panels made "the skirt and a positively appetizing biscuit-colored crepe de chine the blouse. Very fetching was the way the panels extended above the waist line in apron-bib efect on the blouse, liut quite the most attractive-thing of all about these dresses is the loose straightness of them, making them look so. youthfully un - waist - and skirty. The same straightness seems to pre dominate all the things that go to clothe the junior. Her coat is pi quautly hip-length and "box," her suit the same. Her Russian blouse is as unfitted as a gracefully loose belt will permit it to be. And all that "is something valuable to .remember when planning the sprlngr duds of the delightful "in between" girl. Her suit will very probably be of taffeta, with New Turn for the HAVE you ever heard of Pistoj work? It is that lovely raised white work, executed in a won derful variety of designs, pthe same stitches occuring always on a pierced background. Choose a loosely woven linen and linen thread No. 12. This can be used for the padding, unless ordinary padding cotton is preferred. It is much easier, too, to Work with a blunt-pointed needle for it isn't so ut to catch In the padding or in the linen. The actual work goes some thing like this: For the background, with pierced effect, use an ordinary sewing needle and No. 35 twisted thread. Bring the needle up at the lower right-band corner, insert it four or five threads exactly above it. then bring it out at a distance of a similar four or five threads in a direct line to the left of where you started. Do this to the end of the line, drawing the thread as tightly as possible without puckering the material and then fastening. Start the next row again from the right hand side, the needle coming up thru the toprow of previous holes and being inserted four or five .threads immediately above It. Continue until the required space is covered. Now cross it by doing exactly the same titch from top to bottom, just as you did from side to side, only this time ' the holes are already made for the needle to go thru. But the thing to remember is that the little squares must be kept absolutely even. And that brings you to the raised work. It might be wise to start with the stem, which looks difficult but isn't. Begin by padding it heavily, then work across the padding:, putting the needle in on the right and bringing tt out on the left, the entireMength of the stem, leaving just the width of the thread between each bar. Start ing at the lower right-hand corner. ferS short loose coat somewhat after the Chinese. And her hat But I must tell you about one I saw at the matinee yesterday. It was panne and black, as, most of the very smart hats are. Its., crown, tall and slender, its narrow brim quainty stiff and drooping held a charming hint of the dfrectoire. Decoration took the form of flat flowers made from strips of felt. They grew with pretty up rightness all around the crown. In a riot of beautiful colors. They tell me those who seem quite, quite sure that this type of hat la, going to "be" for everybody who can get away with it successfully. Per sonally, I. think it's going to be won derfully enhancing to some of us, and pretty much the other way for some more of us, but there's no denying the unexplainable charm of it when it does become. If you recall tho, I promised you other thing, sweaters. Sweater newe is getting ever so interesting again, Polly. wThere is delightful gossip about side or. Russian blouse fasten ings, panel vests, square necks, black and white combinations and all sorts of collars on" the new slip-overs. Don't despair about your "hour-glass" model of last year, tho; 'tis said it will be back, but it's making a brave stand for sleeves this time. The open-front model, with loops and buttons, is going to have'a review, too. But the sash is giving trouble. No one seems to favor the long, double waist-line twist idea any more. Narrow belts with square ends and Just long enough to loop once give every indication of getting the popular vote. Still., I can't go on talking sweaters forever In a dress world full of such charming things as loose - panel backed blouses. And that, mind you. is only one note of interest in the blouse kingdom. Others I will sing for. you next week. Au revoir then, friend o mine. Your very own, CAROLINE HARPER. Embroidery Needle put the needle thru each bar in suc cession, until you reach the top; but be careful to keep the thread lying on the extrem right. If the stem be a short one, run your cotton down the back; but if long, join off. Each row must be started at the lower end and worked upward as near to the previ ous row as possible. The stitches must be an even length and drawn fairlv tight. Finished, the result should look like a woven material. Grapes are formed of three strands of material and then whipped over. The three end ones lie Immediately below one another; the remainder start from the center of the one above. Braid and Embroidery Combined WHEN there is a considerable sur face to be decorated. It is rather tedious and tiresome to embroider the whole thing. And so the vogue for combining both braid and embroidery is a fortunate one where the all-braid decoration is not desirable. , The braid part of the combination usually confines itself to. soutache, and the embroidery is interspersed in long- ' stitch sAlid dabs. According to this method, the braiding need not take the form of intricate scroll Work. As a matter of fact, the work is very much, more effective when the design is sim ple and bold, for, the intervening em broidery can then be quite large and so much rnore effective. . Large spirals "spoked" - with long, straight stitches in silk or wool make very;fetching decoration with silk sou .tache of a contrasting color. Then the xigzag, treatment of soutache may be given more decorative value by intro ducing large dots between the turns, worked solid. o O O AND now that Christmas and the hurry calls for knitted gar ments are over, maybe we shall have time to think of the new baby and get ready for its coming In the spring. While the- elaborate lay ette is just as much in barf taste now as the elaborate trousseau, still no baby would feel properly welcomed into this world ff there were no dainty hand touches on the little garments. So for the practical mother and aunts and prospective godmothers comes this little layette suggestion, composed of the simplest kind of stitches to put on very simple -garments. The combina tion in each design Is the same: blanket stitch for the edge, which works up so much faster than scalloping and is just as "pretty, and a series of dots for the embroidery proper. Each dot can be made with thece or four satin stitches and need not be padded. When the design is used on fine materials like nainsook or handkerchief linen.-, the dots could be eyelets. Of course, the design is prettiest worked In color-pink for a boy baby, remember, and blue for a girl but there is not much harm done if you ' choose pink and the stork brings a girl, it is just a little tradition that really means very little. For'the sack select a good quality of white or cream flannel. Line it with a china silk to match the color of the edge, and blanket-stitch the two to gether. The embroidery should be taken only thru the flannel, and should be done first with embroidery silk. Any little sack pattern can be altered to bring in the pointed corner given here; or, if this does not appeal, use the square corner that is given with the bib. , Make the bib of fine pique and use mercerized white cotton for the em broidery and edge. Maybe a crocheted edge would work better than the blanket stitching here. A little pad of quilted ' material or an underblb of soft rubber sheeting ought to accompany such a bib as this. Then come the bootees. While pique again, or soft white chamois should be used for those. The ornament for. the O O Q O 0 o CO o O O 0 0 o o oo.Oo.o ' r. n) Band Motifs for the Cap Retouch Your Old Rugs THE whole success of the decorative scheme of a room really depends, in the last analysis, upon the color and suitability of the rug on the floor. A room in which there is a hopelessly ugly rug will defy all efforts to make it attractive and artistic. - t But on a limited Income it Is not al ways possible nor practicable to. indulge one's esthetic taste in these matters if to do so would be necessary, to purchase a new floor covering. In many Instances that is, with a number of different kinds, of rugs, it is quite possible to convert them in shade and color into things of harm,ony rather than discord. All kinds of grass and fabric rugs are particularly adaptable to this altered color treatment. A can of enamel house paint of the desired tint and a brush is all the equipment that is necessary. It the paint is too thick, it can be thinned out with an oil, thus -also increasing the quantity. And if the color Is too vivid, the addition of white enamel will help. In many cases, grass rugs are woven in plain solid colors with borders and designs In a deeper shade. Often It is 5 these last which offend, for aa a result of sun-fade or wear they degenerate into a nondescript color, which is really distressing. If the body of the rug is blue, for instance, oftentimes the bor ders will fade into an ugly green gray which .entirely defeats all one's efforts at producing a harmonious and consistent color scheme for the room. ' The appli cation of a little ultra blue paint, liberal ly mixed with white enamel and oil, will help matters immensely.. And It really is no great burden to retouch the com paratively small . area covered - by the design, for it is -ot necessary to exer cise any especial care in observing the Eharn outlines. Tteally, it is more th touch of bright fresh color 'which re juvenates, rather than the actual die-' tuictness of the pattern. It is decidedly more of a Job. but none ' T O o O O o o A Romper Undergarment and Its Design .1 f Pointed Corner toe is given and the corner for the little turnover around the top. Rip an - old baby bootee for a pattern, or get a paper pattern from any style book. The cap is a demure little model, with two separate bands that turn back from the face and up from the neck. A rosette of ribbon and a ribbon chin strap complete it. The motifs of dote frf th front and an additional motif o O oo . o O , - o a 6 o o00 i o o oo f o 0 0 d0 O S O o o a Square Center to v - i-L -' i . Y - :v V I 1 Y . . . : V o o - J V oo o ' 1 V vv 1 y thei lees possible, to retlnt the whole rug an entirely new shade. A larger ' brush is needed for this purpose, aa iiie entire area must be covered in as short a, time as possible to get the proper ef fect, r A faded old green mg, for in stance, may be treated to a liberal coat of light brownw with darker brown mark ings with excellent effect. - Sometimes In -aje of a complete change of color like this it is necessary' to apply, more than 'On coat. Any kind of a rug which will stand 7 ' I . T A (or tho Flannel Smth. for jtide and back are given here. Lastly comes , a little demgn that is supposed to be. worked on the front of a frocks or on a small romper-shaped undergarment, like the one sketched. The last is something very new for lit tle babies, and may be made of flannel or nainsook. A row of buttons across the bottom 'makes it practical for even the new baoy. Tee and Cuff ef Bootee o o o o Work on the Bib ihinir fcan be treated to a dye bath. 1 0o I o 0 o o o x o0o V : 1 r i ' , ; - r " ooo o - foo Rag rugs are particularly adaptable to thia rejuvenation. Frequently the re papering of a bedroom- will put the rag rugs which cover the floor In a very bad light, mo to speak. Yet the papering was necessary, and Its consequences en tirely unforeseen. Instead of going to ' the expense of purchasing new rugs, treat them to a mild dye bath which .will change their tone sufficiently to put them tn harmony with toe rest of the : decorations once more. . .i . . .,. . . .... .. , i - .. i'.