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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (March 4, 1917)
THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL. PORTLAND, SUNDAY MORNING, MARCH V 191. gg,..gi?,,.gro.:??WT. '--(ifrrfrrtairtHv, ,i,,irrmit..i.(ir.ri1iriiir.ir1i-rirfrr.ii.rriffili.ii.i,iiii ..11M1.1..H. i i.Hn.rriiiiriM m I. , . utttuf . mi n riimwun .1 rr, 1,,,,,.., ,n 1, ... 1 t 1 Blankets off ; Maya Weave in Demand How Fashion Has Put the Indian Sign on Us Is Told v ' by Margaret Mason. . isNrqgragjffra sj- ' By Margaret Mason. A SO now fashion ha put the Indian ign on us! " ' CUI L v ' v a from, a child to take our fashions from the Indians when about all the poor things have to their backs is a blanket arid a.strlng of beads. , But ohf these gorgeous hued blankets tUBf the Maya Indians weave In Guat emala are much too beautiful to be wasted on the primitive fastnessetuof Central A'rnerica. The possibilities of an ordinary blanket seem exhausted after you have used .It as covering- for body, bed or horsed .The possibilities of the Maya. blankets, loosely woven of pure wool mnA ArA In vtvirl and divers strlDCS are almost limitless. The Mayas .know how to make 'em but the fashion experts know how to use em,' as is evidenced by a recent showing of Maya models In a famous New York and Philadelphia department tore.. ' 'Loose -wraps of oyster white and bisque shantung are lined throughout With the gorgeous Maya blankets. Beach and summer suits of white, grey and ecru, silk have vivid Maya blanket touches on collar, cuffs, pockets and lapels. Sport skirts entirely evolved from Maya .blankets, with their rain bow bars of color, make you long to be behind the bars. These blankets as well as the em broiders which resemble the primitive embroideries of the Russian peasants are all made by the Mayas on hand - looms and because the looms are very narrow the blankets fere all made in half widths with a eentral seam. Nxt to the blankets as attractive trimming touches the embroideries find place and are used on costumes in the same manner as collars, cuffs, and pockets. The embroiders also make atunnning table and cushion covers and the bands of embroider are used ef fectively as borders on parasols, hat trimmings, hand bags and blouse adornments. . ' SllkttfJ scarfs, soft of weave and color, another product of the Maya hand looms, are fashioned into stun ning blouses, girdles and are also used In their natural state to be knotted around fair shoulders or hat crowns. Not all of the Maya blankets, scarfs and embroideries are in riotous color inss either. These wonderful aborig ines of Central America have shown themselves most considerate of the fashionable ' wants of 1917 American matrons- and bachelor maids of years of discretion and so they have almost as great an output of embroideries done entirely in black and white or grey and white, blankets striped In the tame neutral monotones and scarfs woven in plaids and stripes of the same. Therefore every one can be smart and all Mayad up and still cling .to-' her color scheme of life. 'All the blankets, scarfs and large pieces of embroidery shown on the Maya models are original pieces brought direct from the Indian tribes of Guatemala but the most of the em broidery bandings are modern Manhat tan manipulations of Maya methods, designs and colorings. You can now buy ribbons at the rib bon counter and embroidery bandings at the trimming counter that will fur bish up your latst summer suit to the last word In modish Mayalsm. Silks by the yard in Maya designs and colorings are also being manufac- - tured and stockings embroidered in In dian symbols are by no means at the foot of the Maya list of fashionable fads. , The ribbons and embroidered . bafcds ' manufactured here are really beautiful and almost defy detection when placed side by side with Indian originals. But if you want a blanket touch, much as I hate to be a wet blanket I vvn constrained to tell you that you'll . have ' to go to Guatemala for It. Or rather the house that is making Maya specialties will have to lraport one for you. It strikes me It would be almost ' as simple to Import a Maya Instead - Think how handy it would be to have a little Maya in your home busily weaving your blankets for you while ; you wait. The main point Is that we have to be good Indians this season. At pres. " ent a Maya costume is more swagger than a Poiret model, a Maya bonnet than a Georgette chapeau. At the be ginning of the war Paris trembled lest New fork usurp her laurels as the lasnion cemer or me -woria. wno could have dreamed that her mantle of , fashionable greatness would have de scended on Guatemala in Central Amer lea instead and in descending turn Into an Indian, blanket. " Thirteen plants, having a total ca pacity of 90.000,000 cubic feet of ozo nized air, have been installed in a Lon don underground railway to ventilate It. SAGE AND SULPHUR Brush this through faded streaked locks and they be come dark, glossy, youthful Almost everyone knows that Sage Tea and Sulphur. -properly compounded. brings back the natural cotor and lustre to the hair when faded, streaked .or gray. .Tears ago the only way ' to get this mixture was to make it at heme, which- Is mossy and trouble. some,- Nowadays, ty asking at any drug store for "Wyetn's Sage and Sul phur Compound." you will get a large bottle of this famous old recipe, im proved by the addition of other in gredients, for about. BO cents.. Don't, etay gray! Try it! No one ' can . possibly tell that you darkened your hair, as It does It so naturally and evenly. You dampen a sponge or soft brush with It and draw this through -ypur hair, taking one email strand at a time; by morning the gray ,halr disappears, and after another ap plication or two. your hair becomes beautifully dark, glossy and attractive, Wyeth'ew Sage - and; Sulphur ' Com pound is a delightful toilet requisite for those -who desire dark" hair and a N ybuthful,' appearance. It i'is .not in tend td-fer the cure, mitigation or pre vention p disease. --Ad. - - DARKENS GRAY HAIR Why Beauty Thrives on Kindly Thoughts Good Looks the Outward Expres sions I off the Inner Thoughts By Lillian (Copyright. 1017. uj (Cop.rrUbt, ism. bj Utllan Rueell) i T IS long since 1 have seen so se vere a demonstration of anger as to cause absolute distress to the vic tim. It has not been so many years ago that exhibitions of anger were no an unusual sight. It may be that the world Is' growing better. We may be certain that it is growing better in this country, where there is no fear from the outspoken word and demonstration of opinion. To be sure, there: are etill those rich enough in physical! power who can af ford to indulge in1 anger and hatred, but the majority seem to have learned the uselessness of it as far as any ef fect upon the cause of the anger Is concerned and the i danger of It upon the angered one. Formerly It was not an unusual sight to ee a woman or: a man whose face depicted hatred even when in repose. We do see faces lined with the ef fects of lasting reseatment the deep double lines on the forehead between the eyebrows, the two deep lines on either side of the Dose and the tight ened upper lip. ! - ; Persons possessing such lines are liv ing examples of either excessive worry or suppressed anger. No person who harbors resentment can keep in good health as the worst phase of anger is the disease it engenders and feeds so that if it is allowed to go unchecked It becomes the master of the man or woman. Ttye effects of passion are brought out entirely through disturb ances in the organic nervous chain. To express the effects We say "he was red with anger" or "she was white with fury," by which terms as by degrees of comparison we Jexpress the extent of his or her fury. ) Physiologically we are then speak ing of the nervous condition of the minute blood vessels and the circula tion of the blood i that "red rags" means partial paralysis of the minute blood vessels; that, j white fury means temporary suspension of the action of the prime mover of the circulation it self. Such disturbances cannot often be produced without the occurrence of permanent organic evils of the vital organs, especially jof the heart and brain. The effect of anger upon the brain is to produce first a paralysis and afterward, during the reaction, a congestion ' of the vessels of that or gan, for if life continues reactive con gestion follows paralysis as certainly as day follows night. nairea aiirers only engntiy from anger in that It is 'anger concealed and causes sleepless nights, feverlshness and feebleness. The, victim either sinks into chronic despondency and Irrita bility or rushes hastily to the per formance of some act which indicates a disordered mind, i i - In any and all cases of anger and hatred the punishment is for the vic tims of the Sensations and has no ef fect whatever upon the ones who caused, the anger arid hatred. Evil di rected reflects upoh the director and all the ' concentrated anger consumes him' without touchihg anyone ele. Today people arej ituer more philo- sopmcai or 'more uiattrerent. i pre fer to believe the former. Of course, prosperity has much to do with it. therefore we will concede that to the prosperous it is indifference, which leaves the greater glory to the unpros- perous that of being philosophical, a state that brings out the best in any man or woman. , Making a necessity a choice is a con dition that brings happiness and beau ty of mind and body to the poorest. The religion of ldve taught by the great master is at lf.st finding its way Into the hearts of jour people, and in spite of sects and creeds people are do ing more for one anbther than has ever been done before, j I A vision has come into the minds of- those who allow their minds to work a perception of the borrows and weak nesses of the less prosperous and thj comfort and satisfaction in the knowl edge that there is Imore happiness . in making others happy than in all tho selfish gratifying -of one's own sensual ambitions. j Enlightenment seems to be expressed in faces and form more effectually than ever before, which will make a better looking' and fetter feeling race of people in this ybung American re public. ) What is called ambition is of itself harmless, for ambition when it exists purely is a nobiMty lifting its owner rrom himself into the exalted service of mankind. When so' much depends upon the. expression of the face, when It Is easy to - discern at once, upon - a flrat - introduction, i the persons- who The first half ' of the alphabet Russell. Lillian RusU. ) have vision, it is well to cultivate a philosophy of living which . destroys anger, hatred, resentment and revenge, and look with a smile upon those who would cause you to destroy yourself. Find yourself and know that you have as much right In this world as has your neighbor, and as much re spect for yourself as you have for your neighbor, and vice versa Good looks are but the outward ex pression of th inner thoughts and actions. English Dietary. "Beautiful bones'' in these days are considered the thing to be desired, and it seems hardly possible that anyone wants to be plump. It is far easier to put flesh on than to take it off, how ever, unless you are suffering from a chronic ailment. On arising, or while still in bed, if convenient, drink a glass of milk. For breakfast, if you . are dependent upon1 your coffee, drink It with as much cream and sugar as possible. If you can do so without too much sacrifice substitute cocoa or chocolate. Make your first meal of oatmeal or any oJ.her palatable cereal, baked potatoes with butter and cream, bread and butter, and anything containing starch and sugar. Eggs, either boiled r poached, will be good for you. A bit of Juloy steak or a broiled chop will be found strengthening. , For luncheon you may follow you'r own fancy, only abstaining from tea or coffee, substituting milk. or. a min eral water If you prefer, and choosing such vegetables as spinach, peas, beans, potatoes, egg plant and green corn fn preference to cucumbers, sal ads, turnips, cauliflower, etc. All far inaceous foods are good for you. If you find them palatable. Eat freely of oatmeal, wheat foods, hominy, corn meal and fruits withream and sugar. For dinner you may eat soups, fish, rare meats, vegetables, sauces', en trees, sweets and fruits. Drink milk, or chocolate with your dinned. Avoid all trying work or reading by artificial light. Arrange you life so that you will get as much rest for your mind and body as possible. Above .all, don't worry. Don't think too much about yourself. Sleep all vou can and substitute deep breathing exercises fOr long walks. Get plenty of fresh air during sleeping hours. s- Eye' Exercises. Here are excellent exercises for the eyes: 1. Hold a pencil at arm's length. Draw it slowly up to the bridge of the nose, looking closely at It all the time. Do this 10 times. n x i ... your eyes as high as you can, as if looking at the ceiling. Then look down the nose, crossing the eyes, mis must be done five times. Care should be taken that the eyes are not strained. Do the exercises slowly and gently. 8. Look as far to the right as vou can on a direct line with the eve. Then move the eye from right to left the same way. Do not strain the eyes. lhese exercises should be taken in the morning only and without facing lue ugni. Arter tno eyes become stronger wnicn taKes aDout a week, the exer cises may be done night and morning. Hair Tonic. O. S. A beneficial hair tonie is made as follows: Steep one, ounce of tea in a cup of boiling water, then let it settle and strain, and add: Borax 1 dram; rose water, 2 ounces; glycerin 1 ounces; Bay rum, 1 pint; canthar ides, 4 ounce. Mix thoroughly in i large bottle and use dally. Blackhead Eradicator. One ounce of tincture of green soap ana 30 drops peroxide Of hydrogen make an excellent blackhead eradicator. Mix and apply with absorbent cotton, rubbing thoroughly. Leave on half an hour, then wash off with cold water. Do this four) times a day. Paints Rooms Light. Rooms coated with a substance that will' absorb dight by day and diffuse It by night with such brightness that the ordinary methods of. gae and elec tric Illumination may be dispensed with are soon to become & reality, ac cording to Professor Montraville M. Wood. The basic Ingredient of the new paint which is to combat the high cost of living by a chemical retention cf the sunlight,, for hours of darkness, will probably be phosphorus or some radio-active arency. . phosphoric oils diffuse "a." luminous glow : at night, of - purple or greenish tinge, which lights & small area. given today was published last wek. StopThe lasMoiia r t k A i a. h i -a jM at fcft. ft la af aaaai i mm ii araaa a ay tmm I r r "I f I , aAasaMlaaaeWWaMaaMtoe , I fl I L- i i ii r ur jp lias ; rtfius mUmttU Maa rmmw. mBM aartraSft I I A j V IJSl Taa W at m. Tif inil. I 1 J A f 1 I- J0Tm (JJA StX By Mme. Qui Vive. (Copyright, 1917. by James Kaeley.) M OTOR clothes are not- entirely toot-toot; it Is taken for granted that the Dear Creature will alight occasionally from her royal gasoline chariot and mingle with ath letic pedestrians. Furthermore, .polite society does -not advertise Its posses sions, and to display motor uniform is one way of being a bally-hoo. There fore, erstwhile and hence, motor wrap pings come under the head of top coats, and" are suitable for' traveling, tramping, shopping and general unln dexed trotting about exercises. There Is a sartorial gayety at the present time that is putting dark tones and dismal shades on the defensive. Even the somberest hatpliment of granite gray, trench brown or black will disclose a frivolous fining in which high colors scamper over the fabric landscape. This dress principle is one that is fundamentally and psy chologically correct. Nature set the pace when she gave us the morning; dawn, the sunset of rose and purple, the rainbow, and the flowers of the field. Bright colors make for bright spirits and are a harmless stimulant to a woman's soul. The only danger is In overindulgence. Like all good things of life, they should be valued highly and applied sparingly. ' Looplne oloth. bollvla, velours" and wool jerseys are good fabrics for top coats; for garments that are designed especially for motor travel the Indian Letters of this size are suitable for iror vioxor Kioaxs i striped blanket velours are exceed! ag- ly good. Many of these coats are made with circular skirt section tnere is no drawing of the hem measurement on outer garments and the back of tha body portions bear cunning hoods and cowls. We see a new note in the breast pockets placed military fashion on the slant, and there is considerable wild- ness of design centered on buttons, mme being composed of tortoise shell, others of cameos with galalitb rims, and still others made of metal bearing oriental decorations to give (hem .standing In the great society of attire, a a Umbrella, folds on either side con tinue to enchant us. though goodness knows why, since they are far from being fresh or new. Pockets grow larger 'instead of smaller and pop up in unexpected places. Convertible sailor collars make for comfort, and are the joy-of life on a oeld ride or a chilly day. Belts Insist and persist. Sometimes they travel In teams and again they drive tandem. There may be a single celature encircling the body, as its purpose Intended, or there may be a wide one at the back and two narrow ones crossing: the front. : Motor hats of fabric are the proper howl. Suedene. wool jersey, novelty silks and leatherized fabrics are all called to the colors, and win their way Into the camps of the family bank ac count. Handwork and embroideries-da not slight these lovely top-pieces and sheets, towels, pillow cases, table are used lavishly, following aJl manner ox designs from portraits of sunsets to dining-room frescoes of fruit and flowers. Cunning satin ornaments or artificial flowers nail down fluttering veils that are in reality part and por tion of the chapeau itself. When vis ors are seen they assume the silhouette of the poke bonnet and are as coquet tish as they are practical. Flaring hoops of patent leather con-tribute a touch of jauntiness to mushroom shapes that otherwise are undecorated. The dress question of the moment concerns skirts to a sweeping derree. The barrel become more and more a feature of spring attire, and naturally u is assuming; more disguises than a stage detective. Many variations are appearing and among them is the melon skirt, cut with numerous gores, fitting closely about the waist, dis tending its widths at a point Just sfeove the knees and dipping In again at the hem. At first sight the melon skirt looks like something that should appear with the rest of the vegetables at the county fair, and yet, upon closer acquaintance. It seems rather nice. A better counterfeit of the barrel Is the tulip skirt, composed of floating panels, but producing exactly the same silhouette as the barrel or the melon. In planning separate frocks, the couturleres sxe following at the heels of Georgette, who Is featuring "blouse skirts." These robes are straight and narrow, rather longer than we have been wearing, and with hems finished off as a blouse hem might be finished. There Is a slight inclination toward the dh-ecbMre and also the empire, though (he greater .number of Geor gette's early models show the normal waistline. -". j .. i We bear much whispering . about short' sreeves coming in for summer not elbow length, but .actually r short cloths, buffet and dresser scarfs. ffir n no) sleeves, such as small, short shoulder Puffs. Be this as it may, we are deadly sure that the extreme! r short eleeve will -do only for the clothes of the naive young thing, and for th evening, costume. We doubt if this season will bring- in any startling, diTzlfylng styles. Fashion has per mitted so muoh latitude that we fear womankind will refuse hereafter to be kept to a few certain distinct modes. Everything is good style that has the manner to it and which possesses the cachet. a a Evening frocks are longer than ever, and the woman of fashion must once more look to her feet and teach them to gnue. r-nort ooaiccs are more vogue y than the corsage that Is belted in at the normal waistlme. In the matter of color all the rose shades appear to have the best of things, while silver and metallic effects are as strong as ever. Tulle and mousse line are .combined with silver tissues and laces. The round decolletage has found a sudden .vogue, although the V back and the -oval line at the front are still in favor. In the matter of millinery we must confess that few chapeaux are made soieiy ox siraw; xaorics were never more fa favor. Hand-sewed Use re i the most popular straw, and K Is prac tical and elegant, with it are com blned caterpillar braids, crepe reor gette, suedlne, taffetas, satins and rib bons. A charming togue, one of the bestmofleis or-the season, is made of chrysanthemum Njrald. In eggplant color, and it Is trimhted with bow knots of the same braid, which-is lined with silver ribbon with picot edge. Placed between the bow knots are small roses in faded pink tones. The effect in color and style is very good. . Hats vary in sixe from ' the mere apology for a bat to. sweeptng; sailors tnat extend into the everywhere and How to Transfer Design. , If very sheer material is used. It may be laid over the pattern and the design traced through in .pencil. Or the design may be easily trans ferred by placing a piece' of carbon paper on the material, shiny ' side down, the the design on top of the carbon. Ia tracing the pattern, with the use of carbon paper, use a .very sharp pencil or a new rangewood stick. . v Perhaps th best plan la transfer ring a design is to pin the sheet of paper and the material together and hold them up against a window pane when tracing the design. The out-. lines will then be perfectly clear. Another method is to place a 'bar jof soap In a pint of hot water until me waier Becomes soapy, itemove the soap, saturate the design with the mixture and partially dry. Place whatever material you Intend to use on a flat hard surface, and place the design on it. face downward. Place over It two folds of newspapers and rub hard with a tablespoon .over the pattern until it Is entirely trans ferred. back again. Black Is the best color for early wear and small hats have great popularity. When spring real. get here and country club affairs loom up on -the social horizon, the large hats of georgette, embroidered. with buttonhole stitch In floes or met all zed threads, will have a great so. Millinery designers have made the discovery that all shaped bats are . Among the new blouses we find. many new lingerie effects, decorated . with drawn work and embroidery. 8t!k blouses of bright colored silks -fou lards, shantungs, rajah, tussor and pongees are all utilized. Georgette is stlU beloved and Is combined with ' satin, ribbons or lac a. Sleeveless1' sweaters are sensible, since pretty sleeves are not keen about' being; crushed. T-hese new sweaters are' ail' dressed up with collars of Hoed, or-: gandy or crepe. . For Fancy Workers. - Crochet squares and triangles are often slightly Irregular when finished, but If you tins them In cold water and pdn out straight, you will be well re-. paid for the utue trouble taken when. they are dry. . . SAYS WE BECOME CRANKS ON HOT Hopes every man and woman-' adopts this ' splendid - J morning habit. " ;" Why Is man and woman, half toe' time, feeling nervous, despondent, wor- t -A . k. , , . , , M t unstrung; nome days -really lncapscl tated by illness. . - , T . T, , M - , 1 i j 'L.IL ing. .what a gratifying change would take place. Instead of thousands of : half sick, anaemic looking souls with pasty, muddy complexions we Should, see crowds of happy, healthy, rosy- cheeked people everywhere. The rea--son Is that the human system does not r rid Itself each day of all the. wastes which It accumulates under our pres ent mode of living. For every ounce of food end drink taken into the system nearly an ounce or waste material must be carried out. else It ferments snd forms ptomaine-like poisons which are absorbed Into the blood. Just as necessary cs It Is to clTaa the ashes from the furnace each day, before the fire will burn bright and. not, so we musi eacn morning clear -the Inside organs of the previous days accumulation of Indigestible waste and" body toxins. Men and women, wbetherv sick or well, are advised to drink eaohv morning, before breakfast, a class of, real hot water with a teaspoonful of limestone phosphate n It, as a harm-' less means of washing - out of the stomach, liver, kidneys and bowels the, indigestible, material, waste, sour . bile -and toxins; thus cleansing, sweeten ing ana puniymi . nuro alimen tary canal before putting more food Into the stomach. " '- ' Millions of people who bad their turn ' at constipation, bilious -attacks, ' acid stomach, nervous days and sleepless -nights have become real cranks about, the morning Inside-bath. -A- -quarter, pound of limestone Phosphate will nota cost much at the Ora store, but Is" sufficient to demonstrate to anyone,"' its cleansing, swceter.lng and freshen-' log effect upon h system. WATER DRINK