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This Season s Faskions Bound
to ,A.waken Great Contro
versy Concerning Grace or
Uc-i;
mess
By Anne Riitcnhouse
(t;pf i'ijjht, !!,". t,v Mel Ii'ie NRWitMr
' Kvinliruti'. 1
lib Amenrii:! h'Tuo; of. trade, as
tlu-y niiuultl be rightly i n 1 led: Cor
m thr way they da red muica, su!r
JL murines, wor zone !'. n c. ami
puailile hick ot ;i chance to
tiring. . th'fisiv- or tneir clothes
home, have, through their work, put
all the French models into the public's
.We have looked them over, difrested
- their hiaui potiitw, argued aliout tfieir
defects and Ihoir new requirements,
; .nd have mettled down to tlmt "clra
adjustment" which 1'restdent Wilson
advised huslnenn to take up when
'.congress adjourned.
Fashions are also Viectic. as husi
tiPSS and the general affairs of the
planet have been for several -months
end the adjustment of tlicni is tt se
rious matter to tar 'more thousands
than tho layman realizes. The world
of trade that is made rich or poor
by clever adaptation or inspired proph
ecy of the Frencn trend of style has
turrowa Jn the nrow and experienced
Home sleepless nights.
t ( The clothes worn hy rtny parado of
:omeni reflect the hopes and fears of
millions. The accepted cut of a skirt
: jnay have meant freedom f rom worry
by the iwomnn of some household; the
Bhape ofca sleeve may have meant the
prospect of a carefree sumfner vaca
tion, to "a family of five; the -money
rturn Trom a special cloth worn pos
sibly suggests a boy's chance at col
lege next year.
- Woven in the warp and woof of all
these clothes that seem so -meaiung-
Jess to the- layman, the scoffer and tho
Jvasserhy, is the success or failure of
VEIL TO DEFY THE
)Snia.rt motor veil -worn xrWx a
r
silk sleeves and feirdle.
t hearts and minds and bodies far away
irom the setting. That is the thing
an expert sees first in any showing
of women's apparel. ' It is a vast in
dustrial exposition, representing the
tlahor, the inspiration, the inventions
'of men and women who have butter
on their bread or not, as these things
have turned out well or ill.
Xnd back of all the clothes today
that have been tagged "France," is the
story of individual courage, the gam
bling chance, cheerfully taken, the
fears of those left behind, the adven
turous zigzagging across the English
channel, the tension on board, ship, the
determination to get the French mod
els back to the states, the cabling to
ambassadors for privileges, the hold
ing of American liners to facilitate
shipments, the personal bravery, and
the plunging audacious American busi
ness methods that won out. These are
the stories behind the clothes. Bvery
garment you will wear this spring had
its origin near the cannon and 'was
secured with as much risk as was
rubber In the old, wild days. There's
a story to someone's hand, there.
What Do Ton Think of Them?
There Is bound to be as much' con
troversy over the new fashions as
there was over those that are threat
ened with extinction. The full kirt
will not rouse the howl or protest and
indignation that greeted the hobbled
ope, and the bringing up of the skirt
material over the top of the body in
stead of ending it practically at the
waistline and giving the bust, shoul
ders and arms the illusive covering of
illusion, will give those who strictly
attend to the appearance'of our morals
no cause for alarm.
The Teal controversy will arise anent
ROUGHEST WIND
tijsrit-flttliig blue leather tat.
THE OREGON
Beer, model of biscuit calarwd cloth -with yellow vest-
the grace or ugliness of the new
fashions; with the conservatives in
sisting that the ways of, our grand
mothers are good, possibly, too good,
for us; the artists deploring the going
oufljf beauty; and the doctor saying
that if the pinched waist arrives with
the tight high collar, the work of a
decade will be undone in the line of
health; with these protests there will
be argument a-plenty..
It won't affect women. It never has.
Since the days of Georgiana, Duchess
of Devonshire, and her fashion for
India muslin clothes dampened in or
der to make them cling more closely
to the body, and the ladies of Louis
XI's day, who were excommunicated
for wearing the high headdress, called
ithe hennin, there hav been few epochs
in women's apparel so sternly rebuked
as the one through which we have
passed. But women continued on the
path into which they had set their
feet, guided by the designers, critics
and cartoonists only made them more
obstinate.
Victorlanism to Ragtime.
Now these clothes are threatened
with- extinction. Will this circum
stance tend toward further freakish
ness or lead to sobriety? You Know
there are many ways of making the
fashions that are introduced today into
a series of exaggerations, lacking, pos
sibly, in beauty and grace, but retain
ing that - pronounced, but Mnnamable
quality that has been exploited by
women for five years.
Accentuation of any type of dress
ing causes attention, and there is a
feeling in the air that the more dar
ing of the species will -make some
thing akin to roguishness out of these
fashions that have been inspired by
the pictures of the little girls who ,are
now grandmothers, with flounced
skirts, pantalettes, puffed short
sleeves, round decolletage, plaid fab
rics, withy'black velvet bows, high
laced boots and white stockings.
Mrs. ternon Castle and her many
followers have shown how these frocks
can be invested with so strong a dash
of the modern idea that they become
daring. The girl whom one sees dan
cing in a chiffon frock with full
pointed skirt, round bodice, long bell
shaped sleeve edged with fur, the hair
rolled under to appear bobbed, and the
I row encircled by a fillet of ribbon
would one, by any stretch of imagina
tion, call her demure?
The girl wearing the wide flounced
skirt of black grosgrain silk barred
with a plaid" made of black velvet rib
bon, short enough to show black satin
boots laced at the sides for 10 inches,
the snug little bodice fastened up the
front with Jet buttons, the turnover
collar or embroidered organdie flaring
skyward, the long small sleeves hug
ging the arms, the hair pulled straight
back from the forehead and ears, the
tiny hat tip-tilted to one side is she
a modern version, of a daguerreotype?
Do you recognize a dead era when'
you -'meet her face to face in these
clothes which are an assumption of
I860? .
It may turn out to be the" most
trying period of fashions we have been
through. If,' through sheer personal
Inability to return to an earlier period,
or an artistic desire to make the re
production of that period as ugly as
the original, the women interpret it
according to the temperament of the
immediate past, then, indeed, we will
be confronted with a reason for de
spair. The woman who has none of the
French flare, and who has felt her
self hopelessly rule out in the game
of clothes, i took a new interest in
ciothes when the word went forth that
two types were to be revived: the
Victorian and the .inartial. ; She felt,
that her personality and figure were
suited to the former, and she hoped
that she might adapt herself, on the
street, to the latter.
She had sighed for flounced skirts,
fichus garden hats, all that equip
ment, in truth, that went with the
pretttnjess of thoBe "belles and beau
ties" of the '70s and 80s She recog
nized her utter inability to cope with
the condition of fashion which turned
all traditions" topsy-turvy, and made
mere prettiness ag nothing, and wor
shiped the kind of peculiar" personality
which could exploit the audacious . In
c'.othes.
She could go on wearing clothes for
decency's sake, but she had lost the
hope of ever being stylish, of passing
muster wi th the procession of slim.: un
dulating, accentuated women who made
up the frieze of fashion. . When 5 the
SUNDAY JOURNAL. PORTXAND, SUNDAY" - MORNING
Russian styles came in last winter,
she thought . things had improved, but
they were'irealSy worse, for it took a
certain swing to the head and figure
"to carry, off those clothes borrowed
from the Russian ballet.
They breathed easier when there
was familiar talk of a revival of the
Victorian era and its quality of de
mureness, its adoration of the lovely
face with a sweet expression, its pin
nacling of the appearance called
"womanly." There was no effort In
volved, there was the straight task of
being oneself. Happy days!
But, like a mist of fog that skims
the , horizon on a bright day, there is
, creeping up this very adaptation of
1 the Victorian era. There are the
clothes. There are the hats. But
where is the underlying quality Of
Victorlanism? Daguerreotypes put to
ragtime, one might say. The pictures
from the family album fox-trotting.
Victorianism seen through the eyes
of Bakst and Poiret is not what the
world sighed for, nor wanted. In such
a rendering there is no hope for her
who is frankly curved and gently
sweet. And the martial clothes, also,
lie beyond her grasp. They are worn
with the defiance, the bravado, the
swagger of boy scouts. The exceptions
may be likened to the girls in the
musical comedies who take the part
of young soldiers, dancing as they
sing. Ah, yes, there is reason for
sighing. '
Will Summer See Elegance?
Through the fog comes a ray of
hope in the r acceptance by Mme.
Cheruit and M. Doucet of the quiet
styles that must prevail when this
fanfare has died down. These two
superior designers stand for what is
known as elegance, a Word that has
deteriorated into slang over here, but
is revered in France. With two such
important houses insisting upon the
times .and the clothes corresponding
in sobriety, and carrying out their
ccnvictlons in charming frocks, there
is a reason to suppose that the sum
mer may tone down some of the brav
ado with which the fashions of 1870
have been invested.
All is not demure in the styles
thrust upon us. Beer, who has a turn
for the picturesque, has brought back
the Watteau pleat in afternoon frocks
as well as evening gowns. His model
showing this revival is in old pink
taffeta, the horizontal drapery being
caught by roses of silver gauze and
a full pleat at Jack- in the material.
The bodice, snug-fittirig, has its dra
pery held at the bust by another rose.
This tight bodice, with the square
decolletage in front and elbow sleeves,
has been introduced into afternoon
and evening frock's,, and it has a touch
of fine lace with a blue velvet bow
to give softness to the neck. (It allows
many women a chance to appear their
best in the evening, for it lends dig
nity, whereas the sleeveless bodice with
the jewelled shoulder straps or. the
mist of illusion floating over the up
per part of the body was not in' keep
ing with certain figures or characters.
All-Over X.ftc frocks.
Another pictorial fashion which has
teen exploited by both Beer and Cal
lot, and therefore will be extensively
taken up, is the- use of old an new
lace frocks. It has been a long time
since all-lace gowns were in the first
fashion, although they never quite
went out. This summer they will be
revived with enthusiasm. It is not as
strange that they should be introduced
in a season of great lace-making de
pression as we thought when the first
report of . it 'came, for all the fabric
places were limited .this year in Eu
rope, and large and rich , houses
In which fine materials are stored
thought It wise to use what they) bad,
trusting to the future to give them a
wider variety of choice.
' Splendid old lace flounces are used
for skirts, ttetieatb which there are
placed finely shaded satin flowers.
The revival of real lace has suggested
the festooning of draperies on both
the skirt and1 bodice, and flowers of
silver gauze are used. One is re
minded of these pictures painted by
Vigee Le Brun of Marie Antoinette af
ter the court milliner and dressmaker,
Rose Bertin, had finished preparing
a costume for the best-dressed woman
in Europe.
The KartlaJ manner.
Along with such gowns as Irlandalse
and1 Kitchener and J of f re has come & -martial
manner among the more ver
satile women. They walk with shoul
ders back, instead of a collapsed chest
Beer model of white serge embroidered in blue eoutache.
white tulle embroidered in blue.
They step along in a spirited way In
stead of sliding about. They ate clean
cut and well put together.
It may be that this feature in the
new way of dressing will do more to
change the figure and the prevailing
idea underlying clothes than anything
else. War is In the air and it Is,
therefore, bound to be reflected in
some way in women's apparel. Pos
sibly the reflection will not be in braid
and buttons, in khaki, coats and leather
belts, but in a more upright carriage
and less artificiality; in a more direct
outlook on everything, therefore on the
way one dressesr
; Dark Bine Patent Leather.
But leaping from philosophy to de
tail, there was never such a fashion
for patent leather as now. ' It has
been brought out in dark blue, an ab
solute innovation. Belts, collar and
cuffs, hems to street suits, pockets
and many other accessories are fash
ioned of it. f
Khaki colored serge and gabardine
are in favor, more so than the khaki
itself. Short Jackets that have huge
pockets above and below the belt,
fastened over with a pointed flap and
a brass button, are made by all the
tailors. And as for military buttons, j
mere is no ena to tnem. Many nave
some kind of insignia on them, though,
of course, the proper one, used by the
allied armies.
is not permitted.
7
FOR THE VERANDA
Every well-appointed country house
has a veranda, terrace or gallery that
is. practicallgan outdoor sitting room.
Unfortunately, however, the best ao-
pointments for these are still expen
I
sive at the select shops being classed i
as
"novelties" or "specialties." Wil-
low arm chairs and Gloucester ham
mocks .have been greatly reduced in
price, but tables, garden seats, settles,
etc., of good design are still absurdly
high.
On the other hand, it is possible,
with a little skill and a great deal of
She Stopped Her Son
From Drinking
A St. Louis Woman Stopped Her
Son From Drinking With a
Simple Home Recipe That
She Gave Secretly.
She Tells What She Gave.
A well known resident of St. Louis,
whose son had used liquor to excess
for years, broke" him of the habit by
using a simple home recipe which she
gave Secretly. In reply to the ques
tion as to what she used she made
the following statement: "I used a
simple prescription which I mixed at
borne and it is as follows: To S ox. of
waters add 20 grains of muriate of
ammonia, a small box of Varies Com
pound: and 10 grains of pepsin. J gave
a , teajspoonf ul three times a day In
his coffee. Any druggist can mix It
for you, or supply these Ingredients
at very little cost. This recipe can
be given secretly in coffee, tea or milk,
or In the food, as It has no taste,
color or smell and is perfectly harm
less. " j I believe any mother or wife
can do as I have and rid their dear
ones of this awful habit," - . (Adv.;
APRIXr 4. 1915.
Blouse of
-I '
paint, to furnish & veranda very at
tract! vely with little money, i
A charming breakfast porch can be
equipped entirely with kitchen furni
ture painted and decorated like the ex
pensive peasant' and "cottage" i sets
which are in vogue at present. One
of the heavy, plain Ironing tables i that
can be converted into a settle is the
best type of table to buy, and; the
.chairs should be of the plainest. I Get
your furniture in the natural wood, and
paint it any color you wish though
green, on the whole is most satisfac
tory. Make or buy a stencil or some
simple design; conven tualized flowers,
like the decorations on the Swedish or
Hungarian pottery are good. Sterreil a
border of these around your table and
on the backs of your chairs. Paint it
in bright "peasant" colors, and when
these are dried go over the-decorations
with a waterproof ; varnish.
This is. not work that demands: any
great skill, but it calls for. time pa
tience and extreme neatness. The ef
fect is well worth the trouble, for, With
the outlay of a few dollars you :wlll
have a set of furniture that you could
not buy for five times that amount.
uairy benches and stodls decorated
in the same way make very attractive
garden furniture.
iTnnfpjMion T?mlnH.
From Pearson's Weekly.
There is one good story told of
General Smuts, who is one of those
responsible for the deportation of the
South African labor leaders. j
During his last visit to England, he
was present at an official reception,
and in the course of the evening he
found himself next to a rather high
and mighty young officer. I
'Xet me see," remarked the latter:
staring at General Smuts rather super-
ciliously through: his monocle, "kaven't
we an met somewnere :
"Yes," replied the general.
inougnt so, remarked the officer;
adding with a bored air: "One meets
so many people; let me see, where did
we meet?" j
"In South Africa' retorted the gen
eral curtly. "You surrendered toi me
during the war! " f
Nobody wants to be mayor of Man
itowoc, Wis. No nomination papers
have been filed and Mayor Stolze says
he will not be a candidate for reelec
tion, j .
Spring Supper
Spring is a season of flagging ap
petitesa little too warm for the
heavy foods of winter, yet not warm
enough for the light diet of summer.
It is a season that tries the Ingenuity
of the housekeeper In the effort to
set an appetizing and attractive table.
If a light meat or fish dish is sub
stituted for the heavy roast at dinner
It will be found a very welcome
change. 1
Baked shad roe with cream sauce
constitutes a delicious supper dish, "
Boil the roe 15 minutes In salted
water to which a teaspoon of lemon
Juice has been added. Butter a cas
serole and place the roe In It, Make
a cream sauce with two tablespoons
each of butter and flour, one pint of
milk, one teaspoon of salt, and a half
teaspoon of pepper. J Pour four table
spoons of sauce over the roe. Cover,
and bake about 20 minutes; then pour
In more sauce, cover, and bake 20 min
tes longer, basting frequently. -When
It is done, add all the remaining sauce,
heat thoroughly and serve. i
- Croquettes of Calf Brslna-Cook
the brains 20 minutes in boiling- water
Afternoon frock of blue and gren
blue. Copiela from
FatKer arid
By E K.Wooley. ,
"If you're, going to have good crops
in your vegetable garden, the thing to
do is to trench it," quoth Pa Jenkins.
For some days pa has been showing
symptoms of garden fever.; Not" only
has he pored over seed catalogues, of
which he accumulated a score or more,
but he has been reading of the'incsl
modern methods of. making the back
yard garden support a family etc, A
space of some 20 -by B0 feet Is devoted
to the Jenkins gardening experimenk.
"What's trenching?" asked ma.
"It's .what the Belgians do," In
formed pa.
"Huh!" sniffed ma. "It's what the
Germans and the French and jJinguKh
and all the rest of those' crazy ptople
over here are doing. I don't see any
sense trying it on here."
"You don't understand," explained
pa. "All rtnegaraeners oo ims trencn-
lng. They dig a deep ditcn, about 8
Inches down. Then next to It they dig
another ditch and so on, throwing the
dirt from one ditch into the other each
time. That gets the sol V all stirred up
and aired and it makes things grow
better."
"And who, inquired ma, "does the
digging in this family?" (
"ale!" announced pa, straightening
ud and striking his broad chest. - yl'
heed the exercise, anyway. I'm getting
all soft and good for nothing sticking
to roy desk all day. A man makes j a
mistake not to do any hard physical
labor. The Creator intended us to use
our bodies as well as our minds and
we have to suffer for it if we don't."
"Well," remarked ma, "don't come .to
me with your aches and pains." And
she ostentatiously set out the arnica
bottle. .. -
Pa ordered several bags of expensive
.fertilizer, which he scattered lavishly
over the 20 by B0. He also bought a
new spade which he said was built es
pecially for. trenching and which cost
accordingly. He'demanded his garden
Suggestions
with half a teaspoon of salt, one tea
spoonful of lemon juice, three cloves,
two slices of onion, and one bay leaf.
Cool, dry and separate into pieces. , '
Make a batter of -one well-beaten
egg, half a cup ot flour, one teaspoon
baking powder, a quarter teaspoon of
salt, a little pepper and a quarter cup
of milk. Add the brains, drop by spoon
fuls into greased muffin rings,, and
cook In a frying pan In which Is la
generous supply of olive oiL ,
Serve with) the following sauce: Half
a teaspoon of mustard, a dash of cay
enne, one teaspoon of lemon Juice, a
teaspoon and s half Worcestershire
sauce, a cup of stewed and strained
tdmatoes. Thicken with one teaspoon
of flour, v -:v'r';''v"-v-'-;."-'-;--::j
Ham Souffle. Have a hot buttered
pudding dish ready. Beat well the
yolks of four eggs, add two tablespoons
of cream, a small cup of finely grated
boiled ham, a teaspoon of grated
onion, and little cayenne. Whisk in
the beaten whites of the eggs, and pour
Into the hot dish. Set in the oven -and
cook six or eight minutes, until it Is
slightly browned and when moved ap
pears to be set.. Serve at once.
changeable taffeta' embroidered in
a Paquin model.
His Garden
shoes from last year and was peeved
when he found that Mike, the dog, had
chewed one of them into a. pulp. But
he donned the rest of -the- outfit an
ancient pair of pants frayed around the
edges and stained with honest soil,
blue shirt that had been washed into
streaks, coat that any Weary Wlllyura
would scorn, -a straw hat of old vint
age, broken in the crown so that a tuft
Of pa's hair, like a warlock, stuck out
belligerently. And a new f jalr of
10-cent -store gloves.
Pa started trenching, ' For a while
the soil flew and pa, whistled blithely.
Then he Btoppcd whlalling. After a
while he leaned on the npn1e and gazd
speculatively into the bole he'd made.
Hr dug again. , He rested oftener. The ,
sweat rolled down his face. He felt it
tk'kling his ribs.' He pulled off hie
coat and hung it on the fence." When
ma called him to dinner he was red,
damp and exceedingly dirty.
I "Great work!" he asserted. "I could
eat a bear."
Ma gazed at the long," narrow hols
pa had dug.
"Ugh!" she shuddered. , "lt looks lilts
a grave',.;
r' ate a real- meal, punctuating it
by telling how fine he felt. Then he
went forth again and trenched until
dark.
Pa went to sleep in his chair that
evening and ma had a time to'get him
to bed.. He declared he would sleep ilke
a log, but he talked trenching in his
sleep and groaned and grunted in such '
degree that -ma had to shake hlnr
awake. '. '" ;.--. .t i
"I ain't no gravedlgger," he mur
mured. "Ouch,where am.ir -
"Shan't I' get the arnicat pa?" anx
iously queried ma, .:
But he grunted disgustedly and told
her to go to sleep.
Pa was so lame next mdrnlng h
Could hardly straighten up,1 but inflated
he was all.rtght. later tn the day
stolid looking Indlivdual inr -overalls
presented a note to ma.
"Dear ma," fan. the note. "This man
Is a Belgian refugee and know " si!
about trenching, so I've hired him to
help him out. I'll be home early. , Doc
Smith says I'm not over, the grip et.
"PA." .
FRECKLE,
How Zs the Tims to Get Kid of These
Tgly Spots -
There's no longer the slightest ned
of feeling ashamed of your freckles,
an the prescription othine - double
strength is guaranteed to remove
these homely spots.
" Simply get an ounce of othine
double strength. from any druggist
and apply a little of it night and
morning and you should soon see that
even the worst freckles have bgua
to disappear, - while the lighter ones:
have vanished entirely. It Is seldom
that more than an ounce is needed to
completely clear the skin and gain s
teautlful clear complexion.
;Be sure to ask for the' double
strength othine as ' this is sold only
under guarantee of money beck if it
fails to remove freckles. "(Adv.)