10. 'SI w3 A:: : -; I'ink ion :rc with figured :?.,-''.r-T!, ' 1 A --- - -1 A 1 This Season s Faskions Bound to ,A.waken Great Contro versy Concerning Grace or Uc-i; mess By Anne Riitcnhouse (t;pf i'ijjht, !!,". t,v Mel Ii'ie NRWitMr ' Kvinliruti'. 1 lib Amenrii:! h'Tuo; of. trade, as tlu-y niiuultl be rightly i n 1 led: Cor m thr way they da red muica, su!r JL murines, wor zone !'. n c. ami puailile hick ot ;i chance to tiring. . th'fisiv- or tneir clothes home, have, through their work, put all the French models into the public's .We have looked them over, difrested - their hiaui potiitw, argued aliout tfieir defects and Ihoir new requirements, ; .nd have mettled down to tlmt "clra adjustment" which 1'restdent Wilson advised huslnenn to take up when '.congress adjourned. Fashions are also Viectic. as husi tiPSS and the general affairs of the planet have been for several -months end the adjustment of tlicni is tt se rious matter to tar 'more thousands than tho layman realizes. The world of trade that is made rich or poor by clever adaptation or inspired proph ecy of the Frencn trend of style has turrowa Jn the nrow and experienced Home sleepless nights. t ( The clothes worn hy rtny parado of :omeni reflect the hopes and fears of millions. The accepted cut of a skirt : jnay have meant freedom f rom worry by the iwomnn of some household; the Bhape ofca sleeve may have meant the prospect of a carefree sumfner vaca tion, to "a family of five; the -money rturn Trom a special cloth worn pos sibly suggests a boy's chance at col lege next year. - Woven in the warp and woof of all these clothes that seem so -meaiung- Jess to the- layman, the scoffer and tho Jvasserhy, is the success or failure of VEIL TO DEFY THE )Snia.rt motor veil -worn xrWx a r silk sleeves and feirdle. t hearts and minds and bodies far away irom the setting. That is the thing an expert sees first in any showing of women's apparel. ' It is a vast in dustrial exposition, representing the tlahor, the inspiration, the inventions 'of men and women who have butter on their bread or not, as these things have turned out well or ill. Xnd back of all the clothes today that have been tagged "France," is the story of individual courage, the gam bling chance, cheerfully taken, the fears of those left behind, the adven turous zigzagging across the English channel, the tension on board, ship, the determination to get the French mod els back to the states, the cabling to ambassadors for privileges, the hold ing of American liners to facilitate shipments, the personal bravery, and the plunging audacious American busi ness methods that won out. These are the stories behind the clothes. Bvery garment you will wear this spring had its origin near the cannon and 'was secured with as much risk as was rubber In the old, wild days. There's a story to someone's hand, there. What Do Ton Think of Them? There Is bound to be as much' con troversy over the new fashions as there was over those that are threat ened with extinction. The full kirt will not rouse the howl or protest and indignation that greeted the hobbled ope, and the bringing up of the skirt material over the top of the body in stead of ending it practically at the waistline and giving the bust, shoul ders and arms the illusive covering of illusion, will give those who strictly attend to the appearance'of our morals no cause for alarm. The Teal controversy will arise anent ROUGHEST WIND tijsrit-flttliig blue leather tat. THE OREGON Beer, model of biscuit calarwd cloth -with yellow vest- the grace or ugliness of the new fashions; with the conservatives in sisting that the ways of, our grand mothers are good, possibly, too good, for us; the artists deploring the going oufljf beauty; and the doctor saying that if the pinched waist arrives with the tight high collar, the work of a decade will be undone in the line of health; with these protests there will be argument a-plenty.. It won't affect women. It never has. Since the days of Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire, and her fashion for India muslin clothes dampened in or der to make them cling more closely to the body, and the ladies of Louis XI's day, who were excommunicated for wearing the high headdress, called ithe hennin, there hav been few epochs in women's apparel so sternly rebuked as the one through which we have passed. But women continued on the path into which they had set their feet, guided by the designers, critics and cartoonists only made them more obstinate. Victorlanism to Ragtime. Now these clothes are threatened with- extinction. Will this circum stance tend toward further freakish ness or lead to sobriety? You Know there are many ways of making the fashions that are introduced today into a series of exaggerations, lacking, pos sibly, in beauty and grace, but retain ing that - pronounced, but Mnnamable quality that has been exploited by women for five years. Accentuation of any type of dress ing causes attention, and there is a feeling in the air that the more dar ing of the species will -make some thing akin to roguishness out of these fashions that have been inspired by the pictures of the little girls who ,are now grandmothers, with flounced skirts, pantalettes, puffed short sleeves, round decolletage, plaid fab rics, withy'black velvet bows, high laced boots and white stockings. Mrs. ternon Castle and her many followers have shown how these frocks can be invested with so strong a dash of the modern idea that they become daring. The girl whom one sees dan cing in a chiffon frock with full pointed skirt, round bodice, long bell shaped sleeve edged with fur, the hair rolled under to appear bobbed, and the I row encircled by a fillet of ribbon would one, by any stretch of imagina tion, call her demure? The girl wearing the wide flounced skirt of black grosgrain silk barred with a plaid" made of black velvet rib bon, short enough to show black satin boots laced at the sides for 10 inches, the snug little bodice fastened up the front with Jet buttons, the turnover collar or embroidered organdie flaring skyward, the long small sleeves hug ging the arms, the hair pulled straight back from the forehead and ears, the tiny hat tip-tilted to one side is she a modern version, of a daguerreotype? Do you recognize a dead era when' you -'meet her face to face in these clothes which are an assumption of I860? . It may turn out to be the" most trying period of fashions we have been through. If,' through sheer personal Inability to return to an earlier period, or an artistic desire to make the re production of that period as ugly as the original, the women interpret it according to the temperament of the immediate past, then, indeed, we will be confronted with a reason for de spair. The woman who has none of the French flare, and who has felt her self hopelessly rule out in the game of clothes, i took a new interest in ciothes when the word went forth that two types were to be revived: the Victorian and the .inartial. ; She felt, that her personality and figure were suited to the former, and she hoped that she might adapt herself, on the street, to the latter. She had sighed for flounced skirts, fichus garden hats, all that equip ment, in truth, that went with the pretttnjess of thoBe "belles and beau ties" of the '70s and 80s She recog nized her utter inability to cope with the condition of fashion which turned all traditions" topsy-turvy, and made mere prettiness ag nothing, and wor shiped the kind of peculiar" personality which could exploit the audacious . In c'.othes. She could go on wearing clothes for decency's sake, but she had lost the hope of ever being stylish, of passing muster wi th the procession of slim.: un dulating, accentuated women who made up the frieze of fashion. . When 5 the SUNDAY JOURNAL. PORTXAND, SUNDAY" - MORNING Russian styles came in last winter, she thought . things had improved, but they were'irealSy worse, for it took a certain swing to the head and figure "to carry, off those clothes borrowed from the Russian ballet. They breathed easier when there was familiar talk of a revival of the Victorian era and its quality of de mureness, its adoration of the lovely face with a sweet expression, its pin nacling of the appearance called "womanly." There was no effort In volved, there was the straight task of being oneself. Happy days! But, like a mist of fog that skims the , horizon on a bright day, there is , creeping up this very adaptation of 1 the Victorian era. There are the clothes. There are the hats. But where is the underlying quality Of Victorlanism? Daguerreotypes put to ragtime, one might say. The pictures from the family album fox-trotting. Victorianism seen through the eyes of Bakst and Poiret is not what the world sighed for, nor wanted. In such a rendering there is no hope for her who is frankly curved and gently sweet. And the martial clothes, also, lie beyond her grasp. They are worn with the defiance, the bravado, the swagger of boy scouts. The exceptions may be likened to the girls in the musical comedies who take the part of young soldiers, dancing as they sing. Ah, yes, there is reason for sighing. ' Will Summer See Elegance? Through the fog comes a ray of hope in the r acceptance by Mme. Cheruit and M. Doucet of the quiet styles that must prevail when this fanfare has died down. These two superior designers stand for what is known as elegance, a Word that has deteriorated into slang over here, but is revered in France. With two such important houses insisting upon the times .and the clothes corresponding in sobriety, and carrying out their ccnvictlons in charming frocks, there is a reason to suppose that the sum mer may tone down some of the brav ado with which the fashions of 1870 have been invested. All is not demure in the styles thrust upon us. Beer, who has a turn for the picturesque, has brought back the Watteau pleat in afternoon frocks as well as evening gowns. His model showing this revival is in old pink taffeta, the horizontal drapery being caught by roses of silver gauze and a full pleat at Jack- in the material. The bodice, snug-fittirig, has its dra pery held at the bust by another rose. This tight bodice, with the square decolletage in front and elbow sleeves, has been introduced into afternoon and evening frock's,, and it has a touch of fine lace with a blue velvet bow to give softness to the neck. (It allows many women a chance to appear their best in the evening, for it lends dig nity, whereas the sleeveless bodice with the jewelled shoulder straps or. the mist of illusion floating over the up per part of the body was not in' keep ing with certain figures or characters. All-Over X.ftc frocks. Another pictorial fashion which has teen exploited by both Beer and Cal lot, and therefore will be extensively taken up, is the- use of old an new lace frocks. It has been a long time since all-lace gowns were in the first fashion, although they never quite went out. This summer they will be revived with enthusiasm. It is not as strange that they should be introduced in a season of great lace-making de pression as we thought when the first report of . it 'came, for all the fabric places were limited .this year in Eu rope, and large and rich , houses In which fine materials are stored thought It wise to use what they) bad, trusting to the future to give them a wider variety of choice. ' Splendid old lace flounces are used for skirts, ttetieatb which there are placed finely shaded satin flowers. The revival of real lace has suggested the festooning of draperies on both the skirt and1 bodice, and flowers of silver gauze are used. One is re minded of these pictures painted by Vigee Le Brun of Marie Antoinette af ter the court milliner and dressmaker, Rose Bertin, had finished preparing a costume for the best-dressed woman in Europe. The KartlaJ manner. Along with such gowns as Irlandalse and1 Kitchener and J of f re has come & -martial manner among the more ver satile women. They walk with shoul ders back, instead of a collapsed chest Beer model of white serge embroidered in blue eoutache. white tulle embroidered in blue. They step along in a spirited way In stead of sliding about. They ate clean cut and well put together. It may be that this feature in the new way of dressing will do more to change the figure and the prevailing idea underlying clothes than anything else. War is In the air and it Is, therefore, bound to be reflected in some way in women's apparel. Pos sibly the reflection will not be in braid and buttons, in khaki, coats and leather belts, but in a more upright carriage and less artificiality; in a more direct outlook on everything, therefore on the way one dressesr ; Dark Bine Patent Leather. But leaping from philosophy to de tail, there was never such a fashion for patent leather as now. ' It has been brought out in dark blue, an ab solute innovation. Belts, collar and cuffs, hems to street suits, pockets and many other accessories are fash ioned of it. f Khaki colored serge and gabardine are in favor, more so than the khaki itself. Short Jackets that have huge pockets above and below the belt, fastened over with a pointed flap and a brass button, are made by all the tailors. And as for military buttons, j mere is no ena to tnem. Many nave some kind of insignia on them, though, of course, the proper one, used by the allied armies. is not permitted. 7 FOR THE VERANDA Every well-appointed country house has a veranda, terrace or gallery that is. practicallgan outdoor sitting room. Unfortunately, however, the best ao- pointments for these are still expen I sive at the select shops being classed i as "novelties" or "specialties." Wil- low arm chairs and Gloucester ham mocks .have been greatly reduced in price, but tables, garden seats, settles, etc., of good design are still absurdly high. On the other hand, it is possible, with a little skill and a great deal of She Stopped Her Son From Drinking A St. Louis Woman Stopped Her Son From Drinking With a Simple Home Recipe That She Gave Secretly. She Tells What She Gave. A well known resident of St. Louis, whose son had used liquor to excess for years, broke" him of the habit by using a simple home recipe which she gave Secretly. In reply to the ques tion as to what she used she made the following statement: "I used a simple prescription which I mixed at borne and it is as follows: To S ox. of waters add 20 grains of muriate of ammonia, a small box of Varies Com pound: and 10 grains of pepsin. J gave a , teajspoonf ul three times a day In his coffee. Any druggist can mix It for you, or supply these Ingredients at very little cost. This recipe can be given secretly in coffee, tea or milk, or In the food, as It has no taste, color or smell and is perfectly harm less. " j I believe any mother or wife can do as I have and rid their dear ones of this awful habit," - . (Adv.; APRIXr 4. 1915. Blouse of -I ' paint, to furnish & veranda very at tract! vely with little money, i A charming breakfast porch can be equipped entirely with kitchen furni ture painted and decorated like the ex pensive peasant' and "cottage" i sets which are in vogue at present. One of the heavy, plain Ironing tables i that can be converted into a settle is the best type of table to buy, and; the .chairs should be of the plainest. I Get your furniture in the natural wood, and paint it any color you wish though green, on the whole is most satisfac tory. Make or buy a stencil or some simple design; conven tualized flowers, like the decorations on the Swedish or Hungarian pottery are good. Sterreil a border of these around your table and on the backs of your chairs. Paint it in bright "peasant" colors, and when these are dried go over the-decorations with a waterproof ; varnish. This is. not work that demands: any great skill, but it calls for. time pa tience and extreme neatness. The ef fect is well worth the trouble, for, With the outlay of a few dollars you :wlll have a set of furniture that you could not buy for five times that amount. uairy benches and stodls decorated in the same way make very attractive garden furniture. iTnnfpjMion T?mlnH. From Pearson's Weekly. There is one good story told of General Smuts, who is one of those responsible for the deportation of the South African labor leaders. j During his last visit to England, he was present at an official reception, and in the course of the evening he found himself next to a rather high and mighty young officer. I 'Xet me see," remarked the latter: staring at General Smuts rather super- ciliously through: his monocle, "kaven't we an met somewnere : "Yes," replied the general. inougnt so, remarked the officer; adding with a bored air: "One meets so many people; let me see, where did we meet?" j "In South Africa' retorted the gen eral curtly. "You surrendered toi me during the war! " f Nobody wants to be mayor of Man itowoc, Wis. No nomination papers have been filed and Mayor Stolze says he will not be a candidate for reelec tion, j . Spring Supper Spring is a season of flagging ap petitesa little too warm for the heavy foods of winter, yet not warm enough for the light diet of summer. It is a season that tries the Ingenuity of the housekeeper In the effort to set an appetizing and attractive table. If a light meat or fish dish is sub stituted for the heavy roast at dinner It will be found a very welcome change. 1 Baked shad roe with cream sauce constitutes a delicious supper dish, " Boil the roe 15 minutes In salted water to which a teaspoon of lemon Juice has been added. Butter a cas serole and place the roe In It, Make a cream sauce with two tablespoons each of butter and flour, one pint of milk, one teaspoon of salt, and a half teaspoon of pepper. J Pour four table spoons of sauce over the roe. Cover, and bake about 20 minutes; then pour In more sauce, cover, and bake 20 min tes longer, basting frequently. -When It is done, add all the remaining sauce, heat thoroughly and serve. i - Croquettes of Calf Brslna-Cook the brains 20 minutes in boiling- water Afternoon frock of blue and gren blue. Copiela from FatKer arid By E K.Wooley. , "If you're, going to have good crops in your vegetable garden, the thing to do is to trench it," quoth Pa Jenkins. For some days pa has been showing symptoms of garden fever.; Not" only has he pored over seed catalogues, of which he accumulated a score or more, but he has been reading of the'incsl modern methods of. making the back yard garden support a family etc, A space of some 20 -by B0 feet Is devoted to the Jenkins gardening experimenk. "What's trenching?" asked ma. "It's .what the Belgians do," In formed pa. "Huh!" sniffed ma. "It's what the Germans and the French and jJinguKh and all the rest of those' crazy ptople over here are doing. I don't see any sense trying it on here." "You don't understand," explained pa. "All rtnegaraeners oo ims trencn- lng. They dig a deep ditcn, about 8 Inches down. Then next to It they dig another ditch and so on, throwing the dirt from one ditch into the other each time. That gets the sol V all stirred up and aired and it makes things grow better." "And who, inquired ma, "does the digging in this family?" ( "ale!" announced pa, straightening ud and striking his broad chest. - yl' heed the exercise, anyway. I'm getting all soft and good for nothing sticking to roy desk all day. A man makes j a mistake not to do any hard physical labor. The Creator intended us to use our bodies as well as our minds and we have to suffer for it if we don't." "Well," remarked ma, "don't come .to me with your aches and pains." And she ostentatiously set out the arnica bottle. .. - Pa ordered several bags of expensive .fertilizer, which he scattered lavishly over the 20 by B0. He also bought a new spade which he said was built es pecially for. trenching and which cost accordingly. He'demanded his garden Suggestions with half a teaspoon of salt, one tea spoonful of lemon juice, three cloves, two slices of onion, and one bay leaf. Cool, dry and separate into pieces. , ' Make a batter of -one well-beaten egg, half a cup ot flour, one teaspoon baking powder, a quarter teaspoon of salt, a little pepper and a quarter cup of milk. Add the brains, drop by spoon fuls into greased muffin rings,, and cook In a frying pan In which Is la generous supply of olive oiL , Serve with) the following sauce: Half a teaspoon of mustard, a dash of cay enne, one teaspoon of lemon Juice, a teaspoon and s half Worcestershire sauce, a cup of stewed and strained tdmatoes. Thicken with one teaspoon of flour, v -:v'r';''v"-v-'-;."-'-;--::j Ham Souffle. Have a hot buttered pudding dish ready. Beat well the yolks of four eggs, add two tablespoons of cream, a small cup of finely grated boiled ham, a teaspoon of grated onion, and little cayenne. Whisk in the beaten whites of the eggs, and pour Into the hot dish. Set in the oven -and cook six or eight minutes, until it Is slightly browned and when moved ap pears to be set.. Serve at once. changeable taffeta' embroidered in a Paquin model. His Garden shoes from last year and was peeved when he found that Mike, the dog, had chewed one of them into a. pulp. But he donned the rest of -the- outfit an ancient pair of pants frayed around the edges and stained with honest soil, blue shirt that had been washed into streaks, coat that any Weary Wlllyura would scorn, -a straw hat of old vint age, broken in the crown so that a tuft Of pa's hair, like a warlock, stuck out belligerently. And a new f jalr of 10-cent -store gloves. Pa started trenching, ' For a while the soil flew and pa, whistled blithely. Then he Btoppcd whlalling. After a while he leaned on the npn1e and gazd speculatively into the bole he'd made. Hr dug again. , He rested oftener. The , sweat rolled down his face. He felt it tk'kling his ribs.' He pulled off hie coat and hung it on the fence." When ma called him to dinner he was red, damp and exceedingly dirty. I "Great work!" he asserted. "I could eat a bear." Ma gazed at the long," narrow hols pa had dug. "Ugh!" she shuddered. , "lt looks lilts a grave',.; r' ate a real- meal, punctuating it by telling how fine he felt. Then he went forth again and trenched until dark. Pa went to sleep in his chair that evening and ma had a time to'get him to bed.. He declared he would sleep ilke a log, but he talked trenching in his sleep and groaned and grunted in such ' degree that -ma had to shake hlnr awake. '. '" ;.--. .t i "I ain't no gravedlgger," he mur mured. "Ouch,where am.ir - "Shan't I' get the arnicat pa?" anx iously queried ma, .: But he grunted disgustedly and told her to go to sleep. Pa was so lame next mdrnlng h Could hardly straighten up,1 but inflated he was all.rtght. later tn the day stolid looking Indlivdual inr -overalls presented a note to ma. "Dear ma," fan. the note. "This man Is a Belgian refugee and know " si! about trenching, so I've hired him to help him out. I'll be home early. , Doc Smith says I'm not over, the grip et. "PA." . FRECKLE, How Zs the Tims to Get Kid of These Tgly Spots - There's no longer the slightest ned of feeling ashamed of your freckles, an the prescription othine - double strength is guaranteed to remove these homely spots. " Simply get an ounce of othine double strength. from any druggist and apply a little of it night and morning and you should soon see that even the worst freckles have bgua to disappear, - while the lighter ones: have vanished entirely. It Is seldom that more than an ounce is needed to completely clear the skin and gain s teautlful clear complexion. ;Be sure to ask for the' double strength othine as ' this is sold only under guarantee of money beck if it fails to remove freckles. "(Adv.)