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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (March 31, 1912)
.IE OREGON, SUNDAY JOURNaE, PORTLAND, SUNDAY MORNING, MACH 31,, 1912 UJBJE 1 ii' 5 In, I.i 1 .V-W- I ' TfafmlVmdhm, VholsSnZ To Have Von Since Cigarette Contests, Are Enlivening the - Swagger Set of British Society One Wonders HowEventhe"Monkey iL Set' oLNewport Can uo 1 hem Uiie Better fl HOSE who have the honor and the ' pleasure of ' being among the in V.A ' timates of .tliat altogether charming London hostess, Mrs.. Cecil Bingham- she S&i one of the beautiful Carr sisters, of Ken-tucks--are sometimes, allowed to have the 'honor and the pleasure .of seeing her smoke "a cigarette. .." SV,' That most modern vf the adornments of 'feminine faces, when she wears it, makes its appearance in, a holder studdedwittijewels. You might hunt all over Europe to find a handsomer; more expensive, more barbarically 'magnificent cigarette holder. Until your icuTLii Tcatrica jxumu, juu v,uuh its. peer.' "x;.r 'V : For it is a truly royal cigarette holder, "and it belongs to the world' $ Cigarette Queen, if there be any virtue in proven superiority 'and if jhe story that attaches to it has not gained in repetition. Mrs. Bingham won the holder in fair fight against some of the most expert women cigarette smokers in Lon-. dan, and the prize was awarded to her, with . the title following, by one of the most fa mous of the Russian grand dukes. ... lYuvrrrrfulf , :nt a hit of it. On r'tlie'tontrarVi' so fashionable that there is an 'ever-increasing number of fashionable women who envy her the distinction, and a new. cult . has sprung.up, in the west, whose devotees are .going her one better and smoking pipes. :. faVhlon decides that any practice Is a J friend of hers, the old moralities Just veil tbetf tired aces and take to the woods. The - morality of srhnking very much Some of ' our good old-fashioned country 'mixed. ; grandmothers the kind P-.at helped make the nation greats-used aplpe, usualjy a corncob and always strong. ; When , they had nothing belter to do, which was most Of I be time." they puffed at It; blandly, 'calmly,' .placidly; Bone ventured as far a a cigar when they wanted to be particularly ' .daring; ' . But , a clgarettenever! " ",,'t'1 Since the beginning of the. century, when words of horror greeted the earlier intimations that a . woman might, possibly, enjoy the taste and odor of a coffin nail without: belonging to that class who are suppose 4 -to be without fear and full of reproach, It has been estimated that the number of women smokers in New York Is' .close to. 100,000, and that they consume, at least 33,000,000 cigarettes a year. That 'wduld be. fewer thai "onu cigarette a day for every one of them. ; v !'.r Some stores in the heart of New York' city have 800 women customers every day. On the lowest aver age, the 10,000 retail tobacco stores throughout greater New York supply two women customers a day with the weed in some form; and all but K per cent of ; the purchases, are cigarettes. But toe lowest dis coverable average Is by no means the true one, for It ' represents the minimum of the cigarette sale to women "aRd there are plenty pf stores that make a hundred 'uch sales pes day'. ' The heaviest trade for Sew York , women is not among the poorer, even among the foreign noDuiaffnn ;it can be found, typically, -along Fifth avenue, in the , most fasfiionable shopping district.' The tobacco used . Is Juat plain .Turkish, such as husbands, fathers ar-d 'brothers buy. and the prices are determined by the ocketbook, Just as men's cigarette prices are. If there jbe any dWerence,, ft is in favor of the economv that usually characterizes a - woman In the pleasures ' she , has to pay for out. of her Own purse. Hal mh r m 1 is wow uvefy llllle Ulssliinilglliin htl the . buying. Milady will stop in at her fsvorite tobacconist's aj.k for iher favorite brand of clgaretxe. take her one , th(te( or hr box ot 100, pay for it and fare non chalantly on her sweet, expectant way. Half a dozen ef the more fashionable hotels and restaurants make no 117 eiJLi' t , Mx Y, ,7 A St m It'ttl h I J for!,, HttrJIfrl f,-Vi, m W. 1 V I . I J pretense of prohibiting their women patrons from enjoy ins the weed after meals. In short, the cigarette la established as the American society woman's privilege, if not her right. She is still a trifle behind her sex in Europe, where the cigarette is regarded as the fashionable womnn's right and not merely her privilege. Indeed, with some queens known to ' be partisans of the comforting weed for their own enjoyment there are circles in Europe, and those the highest, where smoking by the women of the. courts may be regarded as a duty. That Is the modern expression of the ancient byword: "When a king takes snuff, a'i "eeie." ThtVoman of Urtie Hipf andlovclv Cvfier JSJCnock. Kneed, and Cdnno" fbssihly JlvoicI Being Knock kneed. H OW many, women are knbek-kne'edi The question, bo long concealed that human MdkXffl KrEEtS5 ; Mis jfn 'tncpnscfoafy Knock Kneed fbseorfltis Vicfe Tree. ity forgot all about its answer. has been all atnce raised to the importance of a national issue by authorities in athletics who have proclaimed that .more womea are. totta- area. and even that all women1 have the stiirma of knock. kitees. ineradicably upon?their anatomy, i Tha.t last cb.ar.ge is manifestly unjust, for there are bowlcgged women, a, circumstance that frees v Bo, if Mrs. Bingham, formerly the well-known bells, Mrs. 3. 9. Chauncey, has earned ner titie or CigaroiK Queen, the society 'that surrounds her in London, like the society that . emulates tier in New York, will find nothing to disparage. The only detractors from her dignity to be found anywhere sre the new Slaves of the Pipe, who have been surprising San Francisco wish the .limit to which woman's fondness for iodscco can go. , It sounds more shocking than the defiling clgaretts did, when the sex considered it the badge of infamy. Yet pipes there are, all fuming and alluring, and the women behind the pipes are said to be the smartest of the smart set. wivwe brilliant eyw flash the reflec tions of e sunlit beauties of the Golden Gate. nefrMeftcQirloF' Sfrahhl-lmfrisNOT XkcKkKneeS ' at least a portion of the sex from the .first re proach. But ia the main, he authorities seem to agree that . the knock-kneed woman is in a sad and lUisi'ruwo majority and what is more, if she is a normal sort of woman, qualified lor tne perpetua- rafw.-shw ia prona . ta.. hft. mats kiieed tlian uauaL , '."" : '!;'; ': . " ' T . So the answer is noti how many are knock kneed, or bow they can pe cured of it, but how soon wo cau alter our foolish ideas pf beauty and. T . I . if 'ISSBSiaSSSiSSBBsSBBBBSiaHaSj Strikingly enough. those of thilr m who have preceded them with the pipe be. lon to the seme outcast class who once --monopolized the Infamy f the cigarette; and the pipes themselves' belong to the am order of feminine trifling- toys aa did thoae early scented,unreal little cigarettes which the women of the wrong world were supposed to revel In. The parallel ia precise; and If there be anything In his tory repenting itself, the time may not be so .far away when the pioneers of the eigarette will be stalking into their deli cate dens and hitting up the husky old briar. But, woman's nature being what it is, those who dread that new, appalling era can afford to take heart of grace. The cigarette might hare looked immoral, but it never looked ungraceful: The pipe that is meant for an bonest. ample man's smoke couldn't look dainty if Venus herself In dulges In it - Ean Francisco's plunge Into, the pipe ntbit has artfully eschewed all ungalnll ness. Its women's pipes are the most delU cats, the most ornate, the most falrlyllke f utensils, their stems of chssed silver, -heir bowls no bigger than a thimble. A puffs and they are emptv of Ml save ashes. Barring the inevitable odor of nlco. tine, which clings to all pipes and proper cleaning will minimise even that they are no mbre liable to be distasteful than any cigarette holder And let the fatal secret be whispered only they are the most eco nomical means of getting a smoke that has ever been devised by the cunning hand of accept the knock knee$ in a woman 'as the original standard of physical Perfection. If women can't help themselves, their lament- ' ing critics must learn to put up with the strange alAt)l)Am x si '..' j. . sf uy tuvuiiu - T HEYhored, when the terrible secret was first discovered, out In the .University ol : Wlscon-i sin, tnat something could possibly ' be done some exercise ; which might enable glrls to1 grow up with their legs as straight as the boys'! Wis consin's university reported that 61 per cent of the co-eds failed In knee perfection. No sooner was the Wisconsin report given" the national publicity its importance deserved then Miss Catharine S. Leverich, who is the chairman of the xecutlvs committee in the girls- branch In the Publle Schools. Athletic League, came out with the declara tion that the whole sex is knock-kneed, and most of the women of New, York are flat-footed. The accusation of the flat foot was bad, but not Irremediable, for flat foot can be prevented and can be eased greatly, if not radically cured. And, anyway nobody notices it in a bathtng suit so much as they observe defects in the superstructure. But the uni versality of knock knees was something that called -for instant attention on the part of instructors in ath letics, and for a time they expressed the hope that with due care and prescribed exercise, the youthful feminine knees could b straightened out quite hand somely. -j That Illusion was nof Miss' LeverlclVs fault 6he had remarked,-franklyratthe breadth, of a woman's" hips msd it rather .likely that hef legs ought to be deflected toward the, knees. Uut the corroboration of that despairing fact needed to. come from sources more authoritative than she was. - .. It came It came from all the doctors and sur-, geons and anatomists vho were so hastily called into consultation in every big city. They agreed that Miss Leyarlch was right, too right to let even the smallest htfpe remain.tnat, if a man wero to live to the age of Methuselah, he would find himself In an age when girls would be born who were destined to grow up straight at to the entirety of their lower extremities. It's this ways The more ample the peculiarly femi nine structure of a woman is, the broader the pelvla frame and so the more fitted the woman to be a mother the greater must be the -width separating the tops of her thigh bones. Now nature has designed that, no matter how far apart those upper ends of "those bones may be, they shall come close together at the knees, Just like a V. So it must happen that the thigh throws in from. its upper to Its lower ex tremity. Jlesulv knock knees. Yet t there is a differ- nee, -. . . . v.-. . , . ' NORMAL KNOCK KNEES Although nature normally constructs that angle, it Is very different in appearance from the knock knees of a trran, in whom they are an absolute disfigure ments His knees ought to be straight, and a woman's ought to be set at some angle. She, with .her knock . knees, is normal; be, with his, is a freak. So, if the two be compared In bathing suits, the Instinctive Judgment of the eye fails to note end condemn the woman's pyrsmld form above the knees, while it as In stinctively ridlqules the man's. You can see the effect in that charming photograph hich Viola Tree had taken in Bacchlo costume. Her an' ose mors than accentuates' the appearance of knock eh lob is; normally hers, ret, unless one insists V vs. v A ng-jspalUd , hy ,th. .tuaa .af malforroatlon-nsc4iWi MeKeever tastat right leg look! about as normal and beautiful as if it were periecny siraignt, Probably if all femininity could be suddenly trans formed to a condition of stralght-leggedness a howl of protest would, arise demanding that the change be instantly made pack to nature, (2 V.C7 WfieJames'. has been touched by the charming lips ot Tou can take a cigarette that costs 3 cents. break it up and make half a dozen such pi;e smokes out of it. Tou can buy your Turkish tobacco by the pound and save another 50 per cent. You can select and choose and experiment with various kinds and qualities until you have devised th ?aet. blend which suits your Individual palate; and then you can go on smoking at a cost of about one-tenth of what It used to cost for your cigarettes. . , ' Those are Geisha pipes, Imported from Japan at "first by a wealthy San Francisco woman, who saw the pretty Geishas enjoying them and decided they would be a, novelty In her native city, tar more accustomed to the orient, as it Is, than other large communities of the United States. Her guess was correct and quite a fad arose. ' J- In spite of San Francisco's patronage ot the pipe, and even in -spite of its undeniably attractive festuty of economy, the cigarette bids fair to hold its own indefinitely in high society; and the distinction of being Us Queen ought to last at least the lifetime of her bsutlful majettty, Mrx. Bingham 1. - So the story of the melee in which she won it bids fair, too, to go down In the pages ot cigarette history on a par with the tourneys of the Round Table and the joust of . the Cloth of Gold. : The Grand Duke Michael, exiled from Russia with his beloved Countess Torby. whom he made his -mor ganatic wife at the cost of the cxar's favor, has been- one or me ; gnining. ngius of London society. The coumess, wnose assured by reason or her marrlaae. Is a delightful hostess, whose graav of msn ner wen SDets ner nusuana s isvisn nospitaiuy. women Ini Engtisn society aengtit: in tne touojes or nuaua.n splendor they behold at the grand duke's residence, an i they find there the added charm that the cigarette ar of a quality superior to anything that can be had ef f 'wulst. for love or money. So It Is a sm.-n- reft Ol sUDiime enjoyment wnen some coterie uariiiuiva, wlth the arand duae graciously eager to oaot' tus a light. - ' - ' ' He had the quaint conceit, some time ago, to offer, impromptu, a - wonderfully Jeweled holder to the lady who should prove herself able to burn up a cigarette In the fewest puffs. The competition was welcomed with enthusiasm, - The competitors, as they were enumerated after ward, included Mrs. Bingham; her equally lovely" sister, Lady Newborough; Mrs. George Keppel, who knows a good cigarette as well as her lato admirer, King Edward VII, knew good cigars; the countess of Essex, that Adele Grant, of New York, who remains the marvel -of Britinh society for the manner In which she pre serves her early beauty; Mrs. Hall Walker, one dt Lon don's famous hostesses and a granddaughter of John . Lathrop Motley, -the American historian; Mrs. Willie James, equally popular in English society and another 1 "hostess whom King Edward liked to visit; and Lativ Wolverton, who lias the good looks to go with the noble family of the Dudleys and the wealth to rang among the leaders of those who entertain In London. There were women among them who have graced many a hunting field, with digestions and lungs as healthy as any in Britain; but none ot them could put the long, steady strain on the grand ducal cigarettes - which- came -of -cross-country ridlng-on- Kentucky -thoroughbreds. Mrs. Klngham left her clgaretteln . asl.es when jier nearest rl val needed - a couple- of seconds to match her. Grand Duke Michael gave her the holder with the enthusiastic remark that there wasn't a Woman in his native Russia who. could excel " her. - - - - - The story of that curious competition spread all over England, and later over the United States. It hag' revived the old discussion as to the benefit or harm that may result from woman's Indulgence in tobacco In any . form. There, of course, is the definite impor tance ot the cigarette question as it applies to the so-called weaker sex. 1 Dr. Martin Frlederlch, health officer of Cleveland, has declared that cigarettes, so fur from being Injurious to women, constitute one of the most effect ive antidotes to the poison of thelna, an active poison absorbed by consumers of ttik. He says the nicotine counteracts the effect of the thelne and helps women's hearts lit an appreciable manner. But Dr. Charles O.. Pease, of New York, foresees such terrible consequences from the habit that he has organised a Non-Smokers' Protective Leacue and la nsnung ma spreaa or, me tiunreue wim very influ- ; "Iniurlous ss tobacco is for both sexes," Doctor Pease has declared. "It ts eSDecially harmful to women To be entirely plain abbut it smoking unfits both men and womerrto have children. But woman is so much ' more sensitively constructed, her system responds so ' much more readily to such poisons, that, she ta directly liable to transmit to her offspring disabilities on all three planes of existence the mental, the moral an appetite, even though it be confirmed into a habit, when she must know that her children, for whose sake she has her . own existence, must pay penalties ia direr1-, ' Tha -bulk of medical opinion seems tc bs -with Doctor Pease. One of the most grave of the arraign ments which have been, brought against the habit Is embodied in the facts adduced by Dr. Samuel II. Hall, 1 Ot Kansas, quoting eienca nmeri ny vrOT, win- on. clgarette-smokin birys. Out of 2500 youns stnbkers, only , half a doscn were found to be mentally bright ;i only ten-displayed average Intelligence. The rest were dull-brained or worse, and had, besides, defects of vision, stomach, heart and lunas. all attrib utable to the cigarettes thsv - , - - ' .''";'.;; ''"r.,.;;""' ;' -- -- ;:' ' 1 ': j-:" ' '. "." . "., . s X J sssa 'V m X m gssisssssssssssBapWMaisMsjsBSBSBi a " I ) 1