the Oregon sund ay journal,' Portland, Sunday morning, august 7, laio
- 1" r-. ,
Fof'ftelNDUSTRlOUS
By Adelaide Byrd
NEEDLEWOMAN
si
AM giving - today a wonderfully
practical model In buttercups. . We
have not jiad this flower for a Ions
time, have we? But I am sure that
you will form tho buttercup habit, and
that my needleworkera will stray far
into embroidery fields, with
Joyment, , , - t .
much en-
I3M IS a ehame, whan work aprons
can be made o pretty, as well a
, useful, that moist women oover
flhemselvea .wICn' Something that looks v
. like a shapeless rag.
f - Toe best material for the work- apron
mm denim and gingham, though rubber '
; ,j ones are .long-lastlng, and lighter ma- ,
- lerials, like percaJ and chintz, are nice
4 for cfleaa work. . Th dark colors are
beat green, gray or. dark blue la. a "
'i aafa choice. ; Black, in sateen or lining
r material, Is attractive,'; but does not .
how.the dirt enough for one to bt
ure of keeping it clean., Its washable
; quality Js the first thing to recommend
a material for work aprons.
.0.
i .00
' RiDbons for Trimmings ,
Z of figured and flowered ribbons..
" The woman with a dress or hat 1
to trim at home would better take this
K Into consideration.
As to dreasee; Black velvet ribbons are
. being ' used as bandings on foulard,,
pongee, volte, jnarqalnette and chains
gowns. The lighter Dresden and patel
i colored ribbons are being used in the ;
came way on evening dresses. " V . '
. Ribbon saahes hd girdles are fashion- ;
able for lingerie frocks. The most.mod
,'lsh effect is the knee eash, which is tied'
loosely around the bottom of the tunlo,
either .above W below the transparent
veiling When It J below t!he tunic. It
Is oftn drawn upon one side and fas
. tened by ft long looped bow or rosette,
"With Persiam effects, ft plain' ribbon'
v bringjng out the dominant '.colottrf the.
v fabrlo Js Used all a garniture. , These
ribbon ; are wide and are loosely
ati'tohed. - Quilling la much seen.
Ribbon beltings are also ,
popular, especially tn Per- .
? elan" and Dresden patterns.
. Jlolre ' and 'oorded eff ecta
, i are also most prevalent.
For millinery, ribbon is
and rosettee.- Often a flg
. ured ribbon is combined
, with and softened by one
' of plain color in the doml
' riant shade of the other.
r Ribbon Is' belngr, used
. also for table garnitures,
in flower shapes and in
large loops around ft
, flower centerpiece.
I
Odd Flowers in Embroidery
THB woman who, centerpiece' 'after-; "stltcb.' At the very top a French-knot '
centerpiece ; and summer after " is placed.
" summer,:- works . violet and rose Cosmos:This comes in white, purple -"
ftnd daisy designs in coloredt silk in and pink; a pretty piece would combine -;'
. satin' stitch has o idea of the possi- all three ahades. The petals are worked
"bilitlee of embroidery. . I shall not speak.;, solid in, Kensington aUtch. the centers, . . . ,
here of thevarlety. that mv be gained padded with white -cotton; in eatin
- In background material and embroidery ' stiteaj '.5 Above the center is a cluetar'oi"?
etltch, but simply of the use of flowers green, and yellow French knot. - The.
not so hackneyed and worked to death .... leaves are worked 'In "slanting satin and
as those. mentioned. Poppies, thlstlee briar stitch; .the etems in the first '
and forgetme-nots are not so, utterly
Tommonplace, but they, too, should b
; laid on the ahelf for. a whila for staple
ftijd conventional pieces.
- It; Itr8nge that few women, evert
those who care f6r and love their gar
" denst(; 8m rto think s of applying Xhi .
hundreds of blossoms they see about
them to their cojared embroldpry. Why
doesn't aome'one substilute the purple
: pas$lQn-!ilpwer , for jhe Iris, the white -'
moon-vtoe blossom for the'ehrypanthe-
. mum.'the sweet ftlysmtm for the qlovert;
. ' Thloxi-petunias, four-O'clocks, Ice-
' plant, geranium, hydrangeas', feverfew
hera ti d Hat nf flowprs, ftsi!v emhrnid
' red, taken from one small garden', and
tnjthe fields one may find the may-,
apple, the ld geranium (which is U
at alM like -its domesticated - cousin),
Oueen Anne lace. butter-and-eKKS.
. potenUlfe nd many other simple -
kti.Ti n.hi.
If they only lead to a love for and a
knowledge of botany en the part of the
assiduous embroiderer, who is apt to
lead too -'sedentary a life, they have
served thelp purpose. . ;
"But they bave a further falue: ;They
Introduce into embroidered work, an In
dividuality which raises it above its
present level to a standard it has not
attained since the; time of the medieval
tapestries; -They allow the needleworker
to exercise her own Ingenuity and her
own ftrtistlo taste, and, to express her
preference a the stiffly "worked carna
tlons and wild roses of today cannot do.
That these ; flewefs ' --.are as easily
worked as the more commonly seen va
rietiesand in some . cases more so is
shown by the directions given herewith
for embroidering some of the more un
usual blossoms. . ' ,
Red and pink.cactue; This Bplendld :
display; flower J worked with half the
blosaoms (a, conventional- wreath la the
best arrangement aa the flowers are a
bit stiff) In dftrki red and half In pale
pink. .j The edgea of the petals 'are
worked In-Iong-ahd-short stitch, and lti
the shaded effect' i desired, the tips
of the petals are' Ilght6r: than . the. base,
the nearer petals lighter ' than the
. worked in stem sUtcb.' ftnd the atamons
in the renter are Outlined In yellow.
...The stiff cactus ' "leaves." really thel
terns,, ere -worked in darlr and lisrhl
greon. Tho pistil, tn -the midst of tlio
'femen. ha the velbw stylp .fthe-lowrr
part) In slBntlng aatin . mehv the
, etlgma, at. the top. la Kenabistoa
' .Tou'will gt'most satisfactory results,
I think, "it your 0ork bo a combination
of solid: stitch and'. outline,,. I suggest
that the turn'ed-up, petals of the .flowers
be worked solid, also the tiny leaveat
the base of each form. The other petals
you " will outline, and the seeds In the.
center you, wilt work in French knots,
THE .BEST MATERIAL
' ; The . long, sleevelesa apron"; Is good
where the 'arma' must b given free
plUy. - This "apron 'tover tlift Ve'aret
from top to toe; but . is slashed ' and
fastened at the sides with tapesr lenw
ng 4-hoie In the too ifortheMiead to
come through. It Is fine for Sweep
ing or scrubbing,' one. may shed It
in a minute and look prescntaiha far
an emergency, ' J . .
Pierrot ruffles At neck and 'puff'
sleeves make the apron Itae fit to te
celva the unexpected visitor in; or to"
answer the call of the doorbell. White
ruffles on a-hlue apron may be adjtwt
able, so that ' they can be washed fre
quently. - . s
00
" named.
Primrose: "A yellow primrose; It may
have been (to, Peter . Bell, but . to most
mortals it Is light pink or light blue '
also. Here again the three tints may "
bo well combined. 1 The '. edges . are
worked In long-and-ehort stitch, as are
the leaves; the petals are in solid' satin
stitch, and so are the'-green centers,,
around- whlela a '; circle of ; green
French dots. "The veins of the- icavel
and petals are" worked in outline stitch.
., Nasturtium f This is in red and yellow
solid satin stitch, with'the red and yel
low Intermingling to ' form the orange
blossoms. . Veins . , and ' outlines are
, worked In black outline stitch, or In the
tu'H" coior,.,yeiiow or rea. rne
""nte are of green French knots, flat
: t6"?d;
' Wn)te ": This dainty flower
.wlnqflower. Quaker lady, etc.,
worked tn long-and-short stitch." with
-abort stitch." with -
the long stamens in stem stitch and the
rdund centers In thick French knots In
brown and green. : The leaves have
edgesX in i long-and-short , stitch. ' with -centers
of seed stitch and veins In oub
line. .. .j.s .v,-,i.tt"s, x,v; 4):JkAJ,
'Watr-lIly,, sunflower; dogwood, Jily-of-the-valley,'
are some of the.otb.er flow. "
ers that suggest themselves, .. .'and the
clever needle worker will by this time;
have herself thought of dosens of others
and of various ways- of stitching, them.
t Let fler turn mln la th,tf cUon,
and she will begin' to see poosjbllltles '
that she probably pev,er knew existed
in embroidery. . The search for odd
flowers la worth while. . ' -
Corded Sofa Pillows
THD latest sofa. pillows for use oa
. summer porches are not embroid
ered in ellk, cottott or raffia out-"
line Jn the usual manner, but are'
corded arojmd the colored pattern.
, ThuS ft tan linen pillow will be stamped :
in a conventlonaft design in red and
, green, and this .Twill ; be outlined by
narrow silk cord lnthe same ahade or
in Mack.. - Lovely taildr-made effects
. are produced In this way, though .the
conventional desiKrt is much more sue-
cessrui tnan the flower pattern.
tlons..-for "the -girl who can Btencll her
own , niaterrals--was v of grass-jrreen
denlm,.,wlth a drafron design in blHCk,
blue and darK green, and the cording
done in these three uliadeH and 4n gilt.
ji was niR fnougn tor me imt'k of a
morris hbetr. fln.f around It uau a v.wv
slit bimiing ct'i d, ending in, a Jong
green ncv gut taiitici. . .
irzrT - .
The large flowers with ho turned edges
may 'be worked t with long and 'short
! stitches at the outer Mne of each petal, ;
the: knots giving sufficient work for the
center. - -, .'.: ,..-' .v.-..'1'
When you -make the buds, follow the
same Idea," working the small holder in
aoltd stitch and outlining the round bud..
FOR THE WORK
, PockeW are essential. .Large, flat
pockets, with a buttoned flap, may be
sewed at each side of the apron, and
wlll hold' all the - thousand odds . and
ends that one needs In houseclean
, lngt targe , or smalL. .Sometimes these
pockets are Separate and butjpned on .
.only when occasion requires. '.
; Borne of tha aprons are almost Ilka
dreeees, except that they are open all
. the way down th back, buttoning' In
ft' straight llne 'It la really- more can
vonlent, however, to have them but
' toned front or at the sides, as they are
easier to take oft and put on quickly.
With the apron goes always the dust
' cap, which should bea loose cap( of the
Fww?acemr
Novel Hat'Orriament
0
kNB of the new midsummer hate seen
recently had as trimming a large
butterfly bow of cretonne, with a
heavy straw edging and an inner bor
der of glass 'jewels In, the predominating
color of the. cretonne.; Thr,fcat Itself
, In the eame weave as the edging of the
bow. The only other adornment was
rtnaped and folded cretonne' scarf and a
wide band of cretonne on the under side. .
.t,A , m' ... " . ....
Tlla uliuaual effect was striking, to
; the least, and th bat tn aft gm&rt M
ae could doelra. -f
OH 0 0 0 0 , . '
'-... ' . I J N with n tnch of dark-eolored net, rV v "
. vv-,'.. I j , JLJ blue, or brown, ar ; very pretty, f. & J" """"V V '
v" '-.''; ' : - j ' and It Is easy to make them up by sew- . J-,' : ;.
- '''. .-;..' ydl CS.' ' ' Ing th colored net on aa ft hem. 0 jCtv i I
n av ,0 , --r5sr
- . ; . I Y-C'"-'': C .... Chemisettes And yokes of tucked and ' . ' 9 -t :-;;. J. A
, .'l .,-T-!:" . Bleated net are also seen.' Figured net.-,'-' . SO-.. ,.,,.;-'.' ..j.y ! J I .
- French knots tor the sprays of fine
' grasi ; and stem stitch for the delicate
connecting lines are quick and effective
' finishing touches forthe design. - The
narrow lessee are beet In solid stitch, -B6
much for that. . Tour ecallop will
b .buttonholed In the usual way, and
juat for variety I have had a little dot
APRON
same material. The drawing string
.Usually seen rumples the , hair," the'
Dutch cap, fitting ever the nape of the
neck, f better, T.he caps the doctors
use In operating and in the hospitals v
for contagious: diseases . can-be pur ;
chased at any medical supply store, and '.
they are Ideal for dusting and sweeping.
Rubber gloves ire ftnother necestferyA
and extol sleeves, ueh as the children
wear, in school, for hard work with
the sleeveless apron. Thu equipped,
the housewife heed not fear dirt, and
may know ' that ' she- I, becomingly as
well as practically attired.'
Handkerchief Case
A NOVEL . handke.ro.htef case con
f of two' square;, . little "larger
-rhaa a folded handkerchief of ,
cardboafd, padded and covered outside
Vwlth cretonne and Inside with si Iks with
ft buttonholed edge or a band of g"t
these, and th case ts held together by
j ft circlet of a)llf rubber with a lace edg.
''Ing, " . v - '
no
- -'-r - r - : The Newest in Home- - fB 'Vry
' :' . x Sewed Neckwear STT " ' l?N' i""'
,: f f-lCRU frilled collars and Jabots'edged " TKki) -' "V-A :j''':'. i -'.
t . I k ...... ". . . . . . . , avsw 'imt .:''
, This case Is very convenient for trtiv
ellng, as U hold a number of handker-'
chief nd doss not take up the space
AtiheordtaajxJiandkerchiat case, -
placed In each scallop, which, you wilt
work solid. 'The eyelets are convenient j
ly placed,! both from a working and
' , wearing standpoint. The preliminary
overcasting,' followed by ," buttonhole,
stitch, will b necessary.
80ft white mercerised eotton Is recom
mended. I would keep this entirely
wnlfe, although I have seen beautiful
underwear with Just a suggestion of
- the maker's favorite color Introduced in ,
. tiny knot or dots.
TWs design for a corset cover - is
adaptable to a combination, garment or
a chemise. You really .Khouid have ft
buttercup spt. - r-
For a ruffle for drawers or for the
popular combination, there can be made
a repetition of scallops and one spray
of the desiKn. . Repeat aa often as you
wish, my friends. ' . -
It is a valuable little pattern. Isn't ltT
Chemisettes And yokes of tucked and
pleated net are, also seen, Flgured.net
is also made up into gulmpcsj with short
sleeves. These gulmpe have- either a
low, frilled collar In tha Pierrot etyle
or a high military collar that is newer,
but not by any means so comfortable.
;.-' , - 1 ' '
; The etarched collar baa returned. Re
member this In making up linen stocks
ftnd Dutch collars. : - ; r ''
Low lace yoke and eollare are fash
ionable. The laces most seen are prin
cess, duchess and (Jdlencon aniongotbe
more expensive varieties, and Irish,
cluny and cotton chantllly among the
loss costly. . Many of Jfree toce coUara!
have a deep border of silk in pale Dres-'
den dvslgn which Is very attractive.
for these yoke collars, being, seen In
white and ecru.
' Bryon col!ar$ are seen fn black satin
wfh white lawn frilling and in tucked
white bfctlst with Persian edging"" ftnd
Jabot. ,
I myself Ilka a departure from the
stereotyped, and I am sure that these
flowers of the field will please In the
worked form Just, aa decidedly as they
do In print. - ,
I
.. . .. j
CP
Two Ideas
THIS first was a millinery hint The-,
hat. In poke-bonnet shape, fttittg
closely to the blond head of the
wearer, was of folded black satin, with .
no trimming but ft buckle ftnd tassel of
black wooden beads at the left, side.
But all around the inner edge there
' was' ft narrow, frill, about an inch wide,
of white pleeted lawn with a tiny em
broidery edging. The touch of white
gave coolness and distinction' to the
whole hat
The other idea wa a welcome change
from the eternal ' Wack waist with
' white ruyhlng. It was worn ' by a
woman evidently la half mourning, and
."consisted -.of a white tucked batiste
waist; cut with a round Dutch neck.
ftnd with a folded collar edging of half-'
tnch wide black lawn. Here again was '
an excellent finishing touch produced (
simply by a reversaj of tne comm.Qn-t
place and ordinary.
Beads on Lingerie :
PARISIAN women who have ftdopte
the fashionable "baby dress" -i
waist cut In one plec with the
, sleeves and terminated just above the
- normal waist Una and ft full hanging
skirt, almost In dlrectolre effect) are
trimming these simple frocks with beads
t instead of embroidery.
Often the beads are : sewed ; on net
strips in flower or conventional design,
'and then appliaued as girdles or skirt
. bands. White leads in favor, though the
lighter pastel shade in fabrlo : have
bead embroideries to match them .
- closely as possible. ,'' - .1' ,
These' are glaw beadsylt .ls almost
the only place where the wooden beads
-ha-v not rirtvan lhem .out. ,., Iridescent
and metal beads are also occasionally
. seen, especially In gowns iwlth a touch
of the prevalent oriental embroidery. ,
8otnetimee an entire frdck of mull or
- batiste is embroidered with sinptlft bod.
giving the affect of a dotted mstendl.
I f result i very yreUy nud auiie un
"UsuaU -
'0
1
'i V l"r '.,';'s
Oritr
u 0
The Clothesbrush
OFTEN on mlladi'a dressing table
the clothesbrush, with Its &lairt
. wooden handle (for the ellver
backed brushes - always r have bristles
entirely too soft), is the only unattract
ive object, one way of bringing it Into
harmony with Its surroundings Is to
cover the back with brocade or broche
k. "
First sandpaper the wood, so that it
will take mucilage better, and then
paste the silk, which baa been cutout to
the exact shade and size, on to the
brush back, applying the glue only at
the edges, ao s to insure smoothness.
This rough edge should be fastened
and finished off by ft border of gimp or
of metaf galloon. ". , r, ;.
Flowered silk, or ft color to match the
other toilet belongings, is best Tha
brush thus treated makes, an attractive
gift, 'and one that will be appreciated
by the dainty woman.
Cretonne, by the way. Or even small
figured chime, may take the place of
the silk If the former is used elsewhere
in the bedroom furnishings and acces
sories.,
The Smoke-Gray. Tunic
jTTlHK latest Paris color effeU H
I thi fmoke-gray chiffon or r.-t '
, tunio over yellow, coral, irli' t
and- rose underlinlngs of-tff' J''
satin. - Wray .with yellow U ' od I
and extremely popular .with ti
artlstio Parisian. There It no pret-
Twnbrnetion- l.liaU u-.-
gray and burnt bfange, anl ''. t
i being seen In the tunic en t.
"If Sot le.u (!, it Km!1 b f i
cosrse silk nt. $nniu-u- i
tunif are .tiliujuel " ' ' '
stiver er g t-n-". v.
mphatfie tae t(a,il t. -.
. " :