the Oregon sund ay journal,' Portland, Sunday morning, august 7, laio - 1" r-. , Fof'ftelNDUSTRlOUS By Adelaide Byrd NEEDLEWOMAN si AM giving - today a wonderfully practical model In buttercups. . We have not jiad this flower for a Ions time, have we? But I am sure that you will form tho buttercup habit, and that my needleworkera will stray far into embroidery fields, with Joyment, , , - t . much en- I3M IS a ehame, whan work aprons can be made o pretty, as well a , useful, that moist women oover flhemselvea .wICn' Something that looks v . like a shapeless rag. f - Toe best material for the work- apron mm denim and gingham, though rubber ' ; ,j ones are .long-lastlng, and lighter ma- , - lerials, like percaJ and chintz, are nice 4 for cfleaa work. . Th dark colors are beat green, gray or. dark blue la. a " 'i aafa choice. ; Black, in sateen or lining r material, Is attractive,'; but does not . how.the dirt enough for one to bt ure of keeping it clean., Its washable ; quality Js the first thing to recommend a material for work aprons. .0. i .00 ' RiDbons for Trimmings , Z of figured and flowered ribbons.. " The woman with a dress or hat 1 to trim at home would better take this K Into consideration. As to dreasee; Black velvet ribbons are . being ' used as bandings on foulard,, pongee, volte, jnarqalnette and chains gowns. The lighter Dresden and patel i colored ribbons are being used in the ; came way on evening dresses. " V . ' . Ribbon saahes hd girdles are fashion- ; able for lingerie frocks. The most.mod ,'lsh effect is the knee eash, which is tied' loosely around the bottom of the tunlo, either .above W below the transparent veiling When It J below t!he tunic. It Is oftn drawn upon one side and fas . tened by ft long looped bow or rosette, "With Persiam effects, ft plain' ribbon' v bringjng out the dominant '.colottrf the. v fabrlo Js Used all a garniture. , These ribbon ; are wide and are loosely ati'tohed. - Quilling la much seen. Ribbon beltings are also , popular, especially tn Per- . ? elan" and Dresden patterns. . Jlolre ' and 'oorded eff ecta , i are also most prevalent. For millinery, ribbon is and rosettee.- Often a flg . ured ribbon is combined , with and softened by one ' of plain color in the doml ' riant shade of the other. r Ribbon Is' belngr, used . also for table garnitures, in flower shapes and in large loops around ft , flower centerpiece. I Odd Flowers in Embroidery THB woman who, centerpiece' 'after-; "stltcb.' At the very top a French-knot ' centerpiece ; and summer after " is placed. " summer,:- works . violet and rose Cosmos:This comes in white, purple -" ftnd daisy designs in coloredt silk in and pink; a pretty piece would combine -;' . satin' stitch has o idea of the possi- all three ahades. The petals are worked "bilitlee of embroidery. . I shall not speak.;, solid in, Kensington aUtch. the centers, . . . , here of thevarlety. that mv be gained padded with white -cotton; in eatin - In background material and embroidery ' stiteaj '.5 Above the center is a cluetar'oi"? etltch, but simply of the use of flowers green, and yellow French knot. - The. not so hackneyed and worked to death .... leaves are worked 'In "slanting satin and as those. mentioned. Poppies, thlstlee briar stitch; .the etems in the first ' and forgetme-nots are not so, utterly Tommonplace, but they, too, should b ; laid on the ahelf for. a whila for staple ftijd conventional pieces. - It; Itr8nge that few women, evert those who care f6r and love their gar " denst(; 8m rto think s of applying Xhi . hundreds of blossoms they see about them to their cojared embroldpry. Why doesn't aome'one substilute the purple : pas$lQn-!ilpwer , for jhe Iris, the white -' moon-vtoe blossom for the'ehrypanthe- . mum.'the sweet ftlysmtm for the qlovert; . ' Thloxi-petunias, four-O'clocks, Ice- ' plant, geranium, hydrangeas', feverfew hera ti d Hat nf flowprs, ftsi!v emhrnid ' red, taken from one small garden', and tnjthe fields one may find the may-, apple, the ld geranium (which is U at alM like -its domesticated - cousin), Oueen Anne lace. butter-and-eKKS. . potenUlfe nd many other simple - kti.Ti n.hi. If they only lead to a love for and a knowledge of botany en the part of the assiduous embroiderer, who is apt to lead too -'sedentary a life, they have served thelp purpose. . ; "But they bave a further falue: ;They Introduce into embroidered work, an In dividuality which raises it above its present level to a standard it has not attained since the; time of the medieval tapestries; -They allow the needleworker to exercise her own Ingenuity and her own ftrtistlo taste, and, to express her preference a the stiffly "worked carna tlons and wild roses of today cannot do. That these ; flewefs ' --.are as easily worked as the more commonly seen va rietiesand in some . cases more so is shown by the directions given herewith for embroidering some of the more un usual blossoms. . ' , Red and pink.cactue; This Bplendld : display; flower J worked with half the blosaoms (a, conventional- wreath la the best arrangement aa the flowers are a bit stiff) In dftrki red and half In pale pink. .j The edgea of the petals 'are worked In-Iong-ahd-short stitch, and lti the shaded effect' i desired, the tips of the petals are' Ilght6r: than . the. base, the nearer petals lighter ' than the . worked in stem sUtcb.' ftnd the atamons in the renter are Outlined In yellow. ...The stiff cactus ' "leaves." really thel terns,, ere -worked in darlr and lisrhl greon. Tho pistil, tn -the midst of tlio 'femen. ha the velbw stylp .fthe-lowrr part) In slBntlng aatin . mehv the , etlgma, at. the top. la Kenabistoa ' .Tou'will gt'most satisfactory results, I think, "it your 0ork bo a combination of solid: stitch and'. outline,,. I suggest that the turn'ed-up, petals of the .flowers be worked solid, also the tiny leaveat the base of each form. The other petals you " will outline, and the seeds In the. center you, wilt work in French knots, THE .BEST MATERIAL ' ; The . long, sleevelesa apron"; Is good where the 'arma' must b given free plUy. - This "apron 'tover tlift Ve'aret from top to toe; but . is slashed ' and fastened at the sides with tapesr lenw ng 4-hoie In the too ifortheMiead to come through. It Is fine for Sweep ing or scrubbing,' one. may shed It in a minute and look prescntaiha far an emergency, ' J . . Pierrot ruffles At neck and 'puff' sleeves make the apron Itae fit to te celva the unexpected visitor in; or to" answer the call of the doorbell. White ruffles on a-hlue apron may be adjtwt able, so that ' they can be washed fre quently. - . s 00 " named. Primrose: "A yellow primrose; It may have been (to, Peter . Bell, but . to most mortals it Is light pink or light blue ' also. Here again the three tints may " bo well combined. 1 The '. edges . are worked In long-and-ehort stitch, as are the leaves; the petals are in solid' satin stitch, and so are the'-green centers,, around- whlela a '; circle of ; green French dots. "The veins of the- icavel and petals are" worked in outline stitch. ., Nasturtium f This is in red and yellow solid satin stitch, with'the red and yel low Intermingling to ' form the orange blossoms. . Veins . , and ' outlines are , worked In black outline stitch, or In the tu'H" coior,.,yeiiow or rea. rne ""nte are of green French knots, flat : t6"?d; ' Wn)te ": This dainty flower .wlnqflower. Quaker lady, etc., worked tn long-and-short stitch." with -abort stitch." with - the long stamens in stem stitch and the rdund centers In thick French knots In brown and green. : The leaves have edgesX in i long-and-short , stitch. ' with -centers of seed stitch and veins In oub line. .. .j.s .v,-,i.tt"s, x,v; 4):JkAJ, 'Watr-lIly,, sunflower; dogwood, Jily-of-the-valley,' are some of the.otb.er flow. " ers that suggest themselves, .. .'and the clever needle worker will by this time; have herself thought of dosens of others and of various ways- of stitching, them. t Let fler turn mln la th,tf cUon, and she will begin' to see poosjbllltles ' that she probably pev,er knew existed in embroidery. . The search for odd flowers la worth while. . ' - Corded Sofa Pillows THD latest sofa. pillows for use oa . summer porches are not embroid ered in ellk, cottott or raffia out-" line Jn the usual manner, but are' corded arojmd the colored pattern. , ThuS ft tan linen pillow will be stamped : in a conventlonaft design in red and , green, and this .Twill ; be outlined by narrow silk cord lnthe same ahade or in Mack.. - Lovely taildr-made effects . are produced In this way, though .the conventional desiKrt is much more sue- cessrui tnan the flower pattern. tlons..-for "the -girl who can Btencll her own , niaterrals--was v of grass-jrreen denlm,.,wlth a drafron design in blHCk, blue and darK green, and the cording done in these three uliadeH and 4n gilt. ji was niR fnougn tor me imt'k of a morris hbetr. fln.f around It uau a v.wv slit bimiing ct'i d, ending in, a Jong green ncv gut taiitici. . . irzrT - . The large flowers with ho turned edges may 'be worked t with long and 'short ! stitches at the outer Mne of each petal, ; the: knots giving sufficient work for the center. - -, .'.: ,..-' .v.-..'1' When you -make the buds, follow the same Idea," working the small holder in aoltd stitch and outlining the round bud.. FOR THE WORK , PockeW are essential. .Large, flat pockets, with a buttoned flap, may be sewed at each side of the apron, and wlll hold' all the - thousand odds . and ends that one needs In houseclean , lngt targe , or smalL. .Sometimes these pockets are Separate and butjpned on . .only when occasion requires. '. ; Borne of tha aprons are almost Ilka dreeees, except that they are open all . the way down th back, buttoning' In ft' straight llne 'It la really- more can vonlent, however, to have them but ' toned front or at the sides, as they are easier to take oft and put on quickly. With the apron goes always the dust ' cap, which should bea loose cap( of the Fww?acemr Novel Hat'Orriament 0 kNB of the new midsummer hate seen recently had as trimming a large butterfly bow of cretonne, with a heavy straw edging and an inner bor der of glass 'jewels In, the predominating color of the. cretonne.; Thr,fcat Itself , In the eame weave as the edging of the bow. The only other adornment was rtnaped and folded cretonne' scarf and a wide band of cretonne on the under side. . .t,A , m' ... " . .... Tlla uliuaual effect was striking, to ; the least, and th bat tn aft gm&rt M ae could doelra. -f OH 0 0 0 0 , . ' '-... ' . I J N with n tnch of dark-eolored net, rV v " . vv-,'.. I j , JLJ blue, or brown, ar ; very pretty, f. & J" """"V V ' v" '-.''; ' : - j ' and It Is easy to make them up by sew- . J-,' : ;. - '''. .-;..' ydl CS.' ' ' Ing th colored net on aa ft hem. 0 jCtv i I n av ,0 , --r5sr - . ; . I Y-C'"-'': C .... Chemisettes And yokes of tucked and ' . ' 9 -t :-;;. J. A , .'l .,-T-!:" . Bleated net are also seen.' Figured net.-,'-' . SO-.. ,.,,.;-'.' ..j.y ! J I . - French knots tor the sprays of fine ' grasi ; and stem stitch for the delicate connecting lines are quick and effective ' finishing touches forthe design. - The narrow lessee are beet In solid stitch, -B6 much for that. . Tour ecallop will b .buttonholed In the usual way, and juat for variety I have had a little dot APRON same material. The drawing string .Usually seen rumples the , hair," the' Dutch cap, fitting ever the nape of the neck, f better, T.he caps the doctors use In operating and in the hospitals v for contagious: diseases . can-be pur ; chased at any medical supply store, and '. they are Ideal for dusting and sweeping. Rubber gloves ire ftnother necestferyA and extol sleeves, ueh as the children wear, in school, for hard work with the sleeveless apron. Thu equipped, the housewife heed not fear dirt, and may know ' that ' she- I, becomingly as well as practically attired.' Handkerchief Case A NOVEL . handke.ro.htef case con f of two' square;, . little "larger -rhaa a folded handkerchief of , cardboafd, padded and covered outside Vwlth cretonne and Inside with si Iks with ft buttonholed edge or a band of g"t these, and th case ts held together by j ft circlet of a)llf rubber with a lace edg. ''Ing, " . v - ' no - -'-r - r - : The Newest in Home- - fB 'Vry ' :' . x Sewed Neckwear STT " ' l?N' i""' ,: f f-lCRU frilled collars and Jabots'edged " TKki) -' "V-A :j''':'. i -'. t . I k ...... ". . . . . . . , avsw 'imt .:'' , This case Is very convenient for trtiv ellng, as U hold a number of handker-' chief nd doss not take up the space AtiheordtaajxJiandkerchiat case, - placed In each scallop, which, you wilt work solid. 'The eyelets are convenient j ly placed,! both from a working and ' , wearing standpoint. The preliminary overcasting,' followed by ," buttonhole, stitch, will b necessary. 80ft white mercerised eotton Is recom mended. I would keep this entirely wnlfe, although I have seen beautiful underwear with Just a suggestion of - the maker's favorite color Introduced in , . tiny knot or dots. TWs design for a corset cover - is adaptable to a combination, garment or a chemise. You really .Khouid have ft buttercup spt. - r- For a ruffle for drawers or for the popular combination, there can be made a repetition of scallops and one spray of the desiKn. . Repeat aa often as you wish, my friends. ' . - It is a valuable little pattern. Isn't ltT Chemisettes And yokes of tucked and pleated net are, also seen, Flgured.net is also made up into gulmpcsj with short sleeves. These gulmpe have- either a low, frilled collar In tha Pierrot etyle or a high military collar that is newer, but not by any means so comfortable. ;.-' , - 1 ' ' ; The etarched collar baa returned. Re member this In making up linen stocks ftnd Dutch collars. : - ; r '' Low lace yoke and eollare are fash ionable. The laces most seen are prin cess, duchess and (Jdlencon aniongotbe more expensive varieties, and Irish, cluny and cotton chantllly among the loss costly. . Many of Jfree toce coUara! have a deep border of silk in pale Dres-' den dvslgn which Is very attractive. for these yoke collars, being, seen In white and ecru. ' Bryon col!ar$ are seen fn black satin wfh white lawn frilling and in tucked white bfctlst with Persian edging"" ftnd Jabot. , I myself Ilka a departure from the stereotyped, and I am sure that these flowers of the field will please In the worked form Just, aa decidedly as they do In print. - , I .. . .. j CP Two Ideas THIS first was a millinery hint The-, hat. In poke-bonnet shape, fttittg closely to the blond head of the wearer, was of folded black satin, with . no trimming but ft buckle ftnd tassel of black wooden beads at the left, side. But all around the inner edge there ' was' ft narrow, frill, about an inch wide, of white pleeted lawn with a tiny em broidery edging. The touch of white gave coolness and distinction' to the whole hat The other idea wa a welcome change from the eternal ' Wack waist with ' white ruyhlng. It was worn ' by a woman evidently la half mourning, and ."consisted -.of a white tucked batiste waist; cut with a round Dutch neck. ftnd with a folded collar edging of half-' tnch wide black lawn. Here again was ' an excellent finishing touch produced ( simply by a reversaj of tne comm.Qn-t place and ordinary. Beads on Lingerie : PARISIAN women who have ftdopte the fashionable "baby dress" -i waist cut In one plec with the , sleeves and terminated just above the - normal waist Una and ft full hanging skirt, almost In dlrectolre effect) are trimming these simple frocks with beads t instead of embroidery. Often the beads are : sewed ; on net strips in flower or conventional design, 'and then appliaued as girdles or skirt . bands. White leads in favor, though the lighter pastel shade in fabrlo : have bead embroideries to match them . - closely as possible. ,'' - .1' , These' are glaw beadsylt .ls almost the only place where the wooden beads -ha-v not rirtvan lhem .out. ,., Iridescent and metal beads are also occasionally . seen, especially In gowns iwlth a touch of the prevalent oriental embroidery. , 8otnetimee an entire frdck of mull or - batiste is embroidered with sinptlft bod. giving the affect of a dotted mstendl. I f result i very yreUy nud auiie un "UsuaU - '0 1 'i V l"r '.,';'s Oritr u 0 The Clothesbrush OFTEN on mlladi'a dressing table the clothesbrush, with Its &lairt . wooden handle (for the ellver backed brushes - always r have bristles entirely too soft), is the only unattract ive object, one way of bringing it Into harmony with Its surroundings Is to cover the back with brocade or broche k. " First sandpaper the wood, so that it will take mucilage better, and then paste the silk, which baa been cutout to the exact shade and size, on to the brush back, applying the glue only at the edges, ao s to insure smoothness. This rough edge should be fastened and finished off by ft border of gimp or of metaf galloon. ". , r, ;. Flowered silk, or ft color to match the other toilet belongings, is best Tha brush thus treated makes, an attractive gift, 'and one that will be appreciated by the dainty woman. Cretonne, by the way. Or even small figured chime, may take the place of the silk If the former is used elsewhere in the bedroom furnishings and acces sories., The Smoke-Gray. Tunic jTTlHK latest Paris color effeU H I thi fmoke-gray chiffon or r.-t ' , tunio over yellow, coral, irli' t and- rose underlinlngs of-tff' J'' satin. - Wray .with yellow U ' od I and extremely popular .with ti artlstio Parisian. There It no pret- Twnbrnetion- l.liaU u-.- gray and burnt bfange, anl ''. t i being seen In the tunic en t. "If Sot le.u (!, it Km!1 b f i cosrse silk nt. $nniu-u- i tunif are .tiliujuel " ' ' ' stiver er g t-n-". v. mphatfie tae t(a,il t. -. . " :