THE OREGON DAILY JOURNAL, PORTLAND, TUESDAY EVENING, APRIL V 20. 1009.
! EXPENSIVE
! NERVES
t '
arlous phases,
concern in
One hundred and fifty
united states era en-
:
.1
To Titillate, Them Has Cost
r 3Ian Untold 3Iillions Since
Time Began What Per
fumes Are Made of and
How They Are Made.
Kd In in manufacture of perfumery,
Their capital aggregate perhaps $2.
t.ou.000, and the value of their annual
products la Dtiiwem H, OOO, 000 and ,
OOO, 000. If the bualnetia of making other
proprietary lonei goods, . cosmetics ana
almllar articles la taken lino account,
ths fig urea muat be doubled.
The American perfumer' business
haa increased greatly during the laat li
Vftrs. In lllkll th n i . Iiwp AP nalAh.
Ilahmenta here. Including those making
cosmetics, etc., waa only 7. The tin t
out of American ierfumera haa In
creased Si 1-1 per cent durlna; the laat
Ave year a and there. was an equal per
centage of Increase durlna; the 10 year
previous. Half a million dollara' worth
of essential olla and other raw materl-
ala for perfumers la Imported Into thl
in a
1 froi
inree
aa rr
tlcally been transferred to New . York
country every year,
The Ixmdon market for muak haa
ttar of roses
Incrensed from 31,000
alone the 1m porta In
ounce in ma to SM9 ounrea In 1906.
f
f
?
it
7
,
- W,
s
i
4
A hero who waa neglected liv
ing and la forgotten dead,' ! to
be ascribed his just meed by Mr.
Haskln In Ms next article.
Matthew Fontaine Maury was a
giant, In ' his. grasp of nature's
phenomena In their stupendous
aspects. A recital of his srebtevfe
ments, vast In conception and
vast In practical results, forms a
tale of thrilling interest, ; Maury
foresaw and. Indeed, outlined
nearly all ther great , enterprises
that have beefi taken up since his
day. Ha wafe a truly great man
and one it is good to know historically.
Ujr FREiiEUIO 4. RASKIN.
Copyright 1909 by Frederfe J. Haskln.)
J. Washington. April 20". The Manufac-
turing Perfumers' association of the
United States, has just Clotted its an
' nual convention at New -York pity. T'p
ward of 100 American perfumers Rath
r ered to discuss their business In all Its
1 TBB CXBOX7S
acrobat finds it necessary at all times
,. to keep his muscles and Joints supple
That is the reason that hundreds of
'"- them keep a. bottle of Ballard's Snow
J J.lniment always on hand. A sure cure
. t. for rheumatism, cuts, sprains, sore
throat, lame back, contracted muscles.
corns, bunions and all pains. Price 25c,
. Me and fl.00 per bottle. Sold by Skid
i more Drug Co.
during the last few years.
; aw Materials Imported. .
While enormous quantities of per
fumery are made in the United States,
the Industry practically depends upon
Imported raw materials. .w such -raw
materials very little is produced In this
country, the total - production of essen
tial oils In America being valued at
t!00,000 a year. This production In
cludes 150,000 pounds of peppermint oil
and some witch haael, wlntergreen, etc.,
which can hardly be claused aa perfum
er's materials. Flower fields are culti
vated in California to soma extent. The
agricultural department la experiment
ing In flower growing, for perfumery
purposes at Washington, and In Florida
the cultivation of oris, geranium, lav
ender and many Imported plants is be
ing encouraged. 'America, however. Is a
freat field tor the perfumer to exploit,
n addition to the t5.000.000 or 18.000,000
worth of . perfumery manufactured In
this country,. Imports of perfumery
continue to increase.
World's Greatest riowar Garden.
, Francs 1 the center of th world's
perfumery trade and the little, ancient
town of Granee. on the Riviera., "the
axure aide of the Mediterranean," lathe
center of the French trade and the
Mecca of the world's perfumers. From
that little town $6,000,000 worth of
perfumes are exported yearly. The
place la literally smothered with flow
era. Sixty thousand acres, or 93 square
miles, .of land are covered with flower
beds at GrasKe, not to mention many
thousand more acres cultivated in other
parts of southern France.
Ten or twelve billion pounds of flow
ers are gathered in and about Grasse
every year. There are 770 tons of jes-
an mi no blossoms harvested. One hun
dred and sixty-five tons of tuberoses
pay tribute to the perfume makers, as
do also 2750 tons of orange blossoms,
with roses, violets. Jonquils and other
flowers In proportion. As may be 1m
aglned the 20,000 people of Grasse are
verv bukv. J neir harvest lasts tnrouen-
out the-year, except about tw6 or three
months In the dead of winter, the early
spring . flowers coming In March and so
on through 'the list . until the cassia,
whose scent enters into many perfumes
oi commerce, blooms late in the talk
- Bulgaria the Boss Center.
Bulgaria Is the center of the rose cul
ture. In, that country of recently ac
quired Independence, 660,000 acres of
roses are grown and their essence con
verted into oil or attar of roses. The
mm' coop
ill LEGISLATION
' - i r '
Chamberlain's Secretary Se-
cures for New-' Members
' Valuable Privilege.
(Wanhlastea Bareaa ef The Journal.
Washington, April 20.- "Bob" Capias,
nvate secretary to (Senator Chamber
atn. completed A roup d'etat when to
day Vice President Eherman signed
resolution that overturns the custom
prevalent for half a century, of glvln
to outgoing senator and representatives
the franklna privilege, and all publla
aocuments, seeas and puDiicauons up to
the December following the Close ol
their terma of offica.
When ha name here aa Chamberlain
secretary he found this custom robbed
nis cnier or tnese vaiuatue pnvnegea.
1m Mt nlwitit tn nvrturn f ha ruatom. -
First ha mad tha new membera of
tha Ka. "sea and repent." Eventually
he got a resolution passed reacinuiu
Then he tackled the senate, hy goodJ
work aend hi tha . reaolution througn.
Sherman signed it today, and Senator
Chamberlain and all other members
therefor have the distribution of all
Tinted matter issued by the senate or
ion
ia v
ular among. all. new members and
orl
by Joint action of both houses.
needleas to sa
It I
that Caplea Is now pop-
ineir
secretaries.
t
.United States takes about one third of
this precious product. Tnis attar oi
roses has been esteemed for many years
nil tht vprv milntnaencA of Perfume.
Twentv thousand noUnds of rose petals
arm rennlrail tn mnk una round of at
tar, worth $200. A thousand pounds of
jessamine petals' can only produce one
pound or neron, worm izu. irom wmcn
tne favorite eau ae coiogne is raw
Sxtraotion jrooss.
There are four different processes of
getting the perfume from nower-Dy
expression, distillation, maceration or
extraction with volatile solvents.. Some-
times the blossoms are spread on glass
J Hates, which have oeen smearea witn
ard. - There Is a peculiar affinity be
tween tH essence of tha flower and
this product of the lowly pig which
causes the latter to absorb the former.
In this process the flowers are changed
freauentlv. fresh flowers Deing spread
on the plates es often as 80 times, .until
the lard Is completely saturated.
In the process of maoeratlon, flowers
are thoroughly masnea up ana put in
melted lard, and afterwards toe iara is
Others are -extracted by
Dickory,Dickory,Dock, Mama looked at the clock,
"Only half past nine and the clothes on the line,
I tell you washing with Fels-Naptha is fine,
And every last piece, even to baby's f rpek,
Is clean and white." Dickory, Dickory, Dock.
.Ask any doctor if there is a quicker
way to catch cold than to, get all steamed
up and then go into the cold air.
Some women folks get colds like that
nearly every washday. ' : .
They do their washing in the old boil
ing way with a hot fire and steaming suds.
The Fels-Naptha way of washing is a
wonderful health-saver.
It takes away all danger of catching
cold. - v .
. The washing is done in cool or luke
warm water no boiling ..or rteaming, no
hot suds. .
It's much easier, too.
You don't wear yourself out because,
the Fels-Naptha does all the work no
hard rubbing.
There are other reasons why you
should use Fels-Naptha Soap.
It doesn't take half as long as the old
way; saves fuel; much easier "on the clothes
and makes them cleaner and sweeter.
. But, if you value your health, that
alone is good reason for doing your wash
ing the Fels-Naptha way. In the Winter
or Summer. " V
Follow directions on the red and green
wrapper. . : :
strained off. This is repeated many
ttmes. A pomade is formed In these
ways which may he dissolved Jn alco
hol.
perf
are distilled.
steam.
The history of perfumery Is practi
cally the history of the human race.
The most ancient peoples known were
familiar with the use of aromatic gums,
wnniis and almllar substances. In an
cient Greece and Rome perfumes' con
stituted part of the food and drink,: as
well as being used in the toilet of the
Dflonle. The perfumer's art almost dis
appeared from Europe when the barba
rians or the north ana tne east oionea
out ancient civilisation. During the
middle sees perfumes were hardly
known In western Europe, but they sur
vived among oriental peoples and were
rediscovered by the crusaders. From
that time on their use became more
general. s
Tne favorite perrumes or racee. a
of individuals, very from time to time.
For some years violet has been the fa
voritw In this, country. It takes 33.000
kilograms of this Jjlossom to make one
Uiloirrnm of oil of violets; which, how
ever, must be greatly diluted to maae
the extract of . commerce. Rosa has
been popular ever since - the birth -of
that queen of flowers in Persia thou
sands of years ago, and If reports are
true the queen Is coming Into her own
favorite. Musk, the most powerful of
all perfumesfor an lnflnttesmal grain
of It will scent a large room for many
years without being perceptibly reduced
In bulk and other "heavy" perfumes
used to he favored In the modern world,
but ; their odors are objectionable to
some people,
There was a riot In a Berlin tram car
some years ago on account of a woman
perfumed with musk.- Persons using
German cologne -were assaulted during
the siege of .Paris, and the use of per
fumes nas frequently been associated
with patriotism. " It ls tie 'fashion to
use only small quantities tit perfumery
now. Oriental scents are considered
exclusive' by the society woman.
Usny Sources to Draw Front. -
The perfumers have an Immense field
to draw from in carrying on their trade.
Over 200 aromatic substances, animal
and vegetable, are known,' but there is
every- reason to believe that many oth
ers are 1n x1stence, notably among the
vegetation of remote parts of Africa
and South .America. It is possible that
ex-President .Roosevelt may discover
some of these in his expedition through
the dark continent. . . i
The perfumer - draws honey from
scores of - varieties of flowers, native
ana 4oreign '; i-tis agents scour tne for
ests or ttiR world, ana secure sandal
wood. camnl!orj-asln and other sweet-
smelling, woods and gums. Tire fruit
kinedim is levied uoon heavily for the
oils of ' orange, lemon, olive, lime and
oergamot ao ror tne essence ot al
monds -and peach, apricot ; and prune
kernels. The -lowliest plants, including
shrubs,'' vegetables and weeds, such as
mint, pepper, the vanilla bean, and oth
er simple things growing in all climates
are not exempt.
The muak deer of the Himalayas, the
rtvet cat of Asia, and the Canadian and
Moenan beaver stye among the animals
FIGHT TO tlAKE
TEXAS ALL DRY.
Prohibitionists, Encouraged
by Kear-Victory, Line
Up for Finish.
Ran Antonio, Texas. April JO. Stats
wide prohibition missed being ft realty
In Trias by an eyelash, falling of carry
in in tha present aesaion of tha legis
lature by such narrow margin as to
five ths liquor Interests a bad scare,
t now develops that ths prohibition
element of Texas, far from feeling the
t.mDorarr defeat, are elated at the
olna. nrnxlmltv tn aiicceaa which they
stained, and ara rarefullr manning out ,
their plana to make Texas a dry state
atlv -of ths Japanese prim minister,
ar on their way to Rxattla and will
arrive hers within a fnw days to study
industrial and economic condition, and
to mak. a careful Investigation of all
that ia new and suggestive In the way
of , sxpoaltlon methods, Preparations
are being made to entertain them by
the' official of ths Alaska-Vukon-Pa-rifle
exposition and cltiaene of Seattle.
The Japanese envoys ar now at New
York qity. .
, , ... m ;
Aftrrss Win 10,000 Suit. ,
t (United Pits Le4 Wlr.
Ban1 Francisco, April JO. Attention
waa attracted ' to Ixtta M. Crabtrea,
years ago a footllght favorit on tha
pacific I'oaet. when It was learned to
day that eh had been awarded Judg
ment for M.000 In! . hsr.
Ths Judgment la agalsat th atat of
tli. Ute Kdwin Fitwell. T caa has
been pending for ,uni tlm..
Big crowds out Sunday, It won't taks
manr such days to cloa out Gregory
Heights. Bftrr get buay, S Urs
gory's ad. pag 4. . ' ' '
within I wm tinvr Iwn VMrM
Prohibition leaders who have visited
Ban Antdnlo within the past few days
express a firm conviction that victory
will soon .perch, triumphantly on their
banner, and they make no secret or
their plans to fores the fight to a de
cisive conclusion . In this state. Chief
amour the measures which iney win
in ti.v tnrni-rM' in . ina meanuni.
la th antl-treatlns; law, arguing that
treating la largely responsible ror surn
lnal.rl.lv aa Tha Rev. O. W.
Elchelberger, on of ths most prominent
of the antl-llquor forces, haa arnveo
hers from a tour of tha state. H say;
flvs counties ar already willing and
anxious to Jjut tha question of wet or
err voters in elections wnicn
' On;
im mm mmm mMmr-.
SIM
ill """"ff,'"iiinfffii7'inr'h'fnr
W3LW HANDBAGS
PURSES MP BELTS
We have the niQFt elaborate and exclusive display of
exquisite and ultra-fashionable llanJbaf's, Purses and
Leather Goods ever brought .to Portland. These
poods are strictly up to date and fashionable, being
the latest edict of fashion in Nejv York.-4 . We do not
boast, but ask you to compare our line with others-7-1
that will unquestionably convince you that all-leather
" goods are what you want. " " '
Prices $1.00 to ?50.00. "Largest assortment. New colors Cendre de Rose,
Amethyst, Smoke, Wistaria, Catawba.
dry to th
Mr. Elchelberger will devote two or
will very likely bs held In July or Aug-
list
thre
e months to uexar county, nivnry
ward in th. Cliv-or Han Anionin nu
CROSS LONDON GLOVES FOR WOMEN, MEN AND CHILDREN
very precinct In th county will b
thorouahlv organised.' and prohibition
clubs started In all of them. -
MALHEUR SETTLERS .
SUBMIT PETITION
(Special- pupateh to taa Journal.) .
Ontario, Or., April iO.' Considerable
sentiment In favor of the Malheur
ntaft ha. heen created here on ac
count of a private company attempting!
to secure a footing. The company is
from Twin Falls and its filings on the
waters of the Owyhee river have been
rejected bv the government. The com
pany has filed a protest and asked ths
Honortmnnt to oostoone action until
its representatives, who are now on the
road, can reach Washington to, present
their claims; - . ' r' '
About S per cent of the land owners
have slanlfled their preference for-tne
government project. A petition bear-.
ng about luuu signatures or lmeresiru
persons nas oeen rorwaraea to waner
Griffedli; director of the Malheur Wa
ter Users association, who Is In wasn-ina-ton.
askinir the reclamation depart
ment to refuse the petition of. the pri
vate company as they (the land owners)
want government irrigation.
Besides the land owners, the busi
ness men of Ontario. Vale, Weiser and
Pavette. are uslnar every effort to in
duca tne government to come in.
FASTEST DESTROYER
IN NAVY LAUNCHED
BATH TOWELS REDUCED
The best bargains ever offered in bath towelsbetter lay iri
a supply now. See window display.
Regular 30c BATH TOWELS Sale Price.. "...10
Regular 35c BATH TOWELS Sale Price 23
Regular 40c" BATH TOWELS Sale Price 27
Regular 45c BATH TOWELS Sale Price .....32
Regular 75c BATH TOWELS Sale Price 53
Regular 85c BATH TOWELS Sale Price.. -63
Regular. 10c WASH RAGS Sale Price.. .2 for 15 .'
' 1 S 1-41 J 1 I
mm
that are hunted fOr tha substances they
roduce, and which ths perfumers want,
'he erreatest mammal in existence, the
whale,produces the precious ambergris,
which forms the base of many perfumes
to wnicn u imparts a lasting quality.
This ambergris is found floating on the
surface of the sea, or cast up by the
waves; especially along the shores of
the Indian ocean. Not even metals es
cape the perfumer, the peculiar odors
of some being used in certain combinations.
Chemistry Extends ths Ust.
In short, the perfumer neglects noth
ing in his mission of catering to th
olfactory nerve of the human race.
Wltnout . havlnr exhausted the re
sources of nature, he Is appealing; to
science, and synthetic chemistry is do
ing wonders for him. Already many
perfumes of flowers have been pro-
nucea amriciany. -jonone-'- or arti
ficial violet was first obtained In 1893.
Other odors have since been repro
duced by the chemist. Twenty-fivs
thousand pounds of "vanillin." or arti
ficial vanilla, are made every yearand
murh of It used by perfumers. "Hello-tropln."-
or artificial whits heliotrope,
Is mads from ths ordinary garden pep
per. Artificial perfumes of carnation,
hyacinth and hawthorns are obtained
Philadelphia. ' April 20. The torpedo
boat destrtoyer Smith, the first of a new
type of vessel and wnicn is expectea to
ave a greater speed ana a wioer steam
ing radius than any nnwdn the United
States navy, was successfully launched
today at Cramps' shipyard. The chris
tening ceremony was performed by Mrs.
Idward it. mcnarasnn -oi , jsriiunwHo,.,
Mass. Mrs. Richardson ts a cnugnter or
Roar Admiral Plllsbury and a distant
relative of lieutenant Joseph B. Smith,
In memory of whom the vessel launched
fnriig was namcl. Lieutenant Smith
was a distinguished officer of the navy
during the civil war period, and was In
command of the warship Congress when
that vessel was sunk in Hampton
Roads by the confederate Jronclad Vir
ginia. ' '. ' . '
ST. LOUTS BREAKS
C0ALINO RECORD
fTtnitnf Pima teased Wire.)
Navy Tard, Puget Sound, Wash., April
20. What Is said to be the world's
record In coaling a warship has been
made hers by the i cruiser St. Louis,
which took on 1 BOO tons of coal In 14
hniira while lvinar at her berth alongside
the pier. This record is all the more
1-Amn.rkahle when the fact is consld
rH that the St. Louts Is In reserve and
carries only one-third her full comple
ment or men. . .
The battleship Virginia has hereto
fr held the record for takina- on coal
Her record was made with a full force
nt man nhnard.
The St. Louis Is ready for sea duty
and is now awaiting sailing orders from
Washington.
POISON IN BABY'S
REACH; HE'S DEAD
rTTniled Press Lead WIra.V
Kverett. Wash. April 20. A box of
strvchnine and belladona bills careless
ly left where an inquisitive child could
reach them caused the death of Morris
Love, tne u-year-oia son or a. w. ijove,
an employe or tna Kverett ijignrcom-
panyvi ;r: -r.
The child awoke befors his' parents,
arose and during his explorations about
the house rounn a dox wnicn contamea
what he thought was candy. Physicians
arrived too .late to save ths child's life.
FARMERS' INSTITUTE
AT WHITE SALMON
' (Special Dtipatcb t Tti Joareati
Husum.Wash., April 20. A farmers'
Institute will he held st Whit Salmon
April 27 and 28. At that tlm demon
stration trains will be run through
western Washington 1n the Interest of
better farming. Professor R. W.
Thatcher of the state college st Pull
man, superintendent of farmers' Insti
tutes, will be present at the meetings
at White Salmon.
JAPS COME TO GET
EXPOSITION POINTERS
(United Prtai Leaaed Wir.t
Seattle, April 20. HlkaJIro Wada, di
rector general of the International ex
position to be held at Toklo in 1117,
and Tokutaro Sakai. personal represent-
sJgfeta T""
Am
BEAUTIFUL AMPHORA ARTWARE
Thousands of pieces of this fine Ira
ported Art Ware on q-ile
THIS WEEK, HALF PRICE
'".-) lPiPniiii-'ii!ii lullinij"'! . iijr 'is si . j-1 1 - j s. . i iii'ii'jriiiiiiiiiiiliiaiiiiiiir n.i iiiiiii'iSiiiriiiiii iiiiiiiiiiuiiiiiu.l ,n n ..
See window display also display. on
; First Floor and the Third Floor. k
ARTISTIC
PICTURE
FRAMING
W00DARD, CLARKE & CO.
FOURTH
AND
.WASKINGI'N
from, other vegetables. In many cases
trie ooors or tries artificial olla ar un
bearabl. It la onl v bv rret dilution
and by combination with other and nat
ural seen that an acceptable perfume
ia obtained. Thle Is also true of th
purely natural esaence. Ths greatest
proof of the ability of a perfumer Is
his success In making successful blenda
and combinations.
It might b supposed thst th devel
opment of synthetic chemistry would
Interfere with th production of natursj
perfumes, but so far nature and srlenc.
have supplemented each ether, and It Is
TrdictMt that thle will continue. The
cultivation of- violets and other flow
ers ror perfumery purpose l actually
Increasing. Th perfumer has caught
the eaaenc of new mown hav. but ther
are many of nature's -nts ef which
n Ma no yet discovered th secret, as.
for Instance, the refreahins kt ef th
brwxe n1 the d-Hahtful "weodajr""
smell f th forest ftr a rain.
rrrfura.rf l rx-rn!r1 mm an aid ta
mnunrwm, am aa a aiatnroetant. irr
arid sandalwood are u4 as eVo-'
flnrur In th modem hntne. as t hrf
hav hea I hou ef rM(lni wer-
t.lp for fcw(m ha eai that!
Mr snul m be lorat4 tm the lfac
torv ricr- m Mnwr t i, t mm w .m it tm I
a f' that I-1k-Ims ferfeaa Is mest ! exeJustvelv'
exaiuns to tr. mr , . I
Tbt Stent ef Prlzt TTInnlnj Pittry.
Fourteen prizes nearly all of them
firsts) out of fifteen entries of cake and
fine pastry Is a record that any woman
might envy. This was the showing made
recently by Mrs., J. H. Chastain, too S.
Boulevard, Atlanta, Ga., at the Geooria
State Fair. Her explanation of her suol
cess i decidedly interesting; she write j
"I eatercd mimm cakes asd six tries at the
Georgia Bute Fsir, Atlasta. Ga. woe eight trst )
preaBunsaaecas. ure am prpwntau aaal twe 1
aecoeds a pies, alas first pfvaalasa mm geeerat !
dikplay. I attribute sjy succeaa hi cake makiag ;
altogether ta aauij- COTTOCEX as4 Ml
bsttec"- ... .. V ' j
Mrs. Chastain is' the wife of the Master
Mechanic of the Western & Atlantic R.R-.
and enjoy a high local repotatkm for her ;
one cooamgr. o( oniy ooe-s ane nee
COTTOLENE ia tnakin ar cakes or crvsts.!
and other pastry; but for Irymr cmcken.
MEN AND YOUNG MEN
WHO WANT CLOTHES
OF LATEST FASHION
Are the ones we are especially anxious to see. (
We know from experience that our styles, ourJ
'fabrics and ouf prices, invariably please ninety
nine out of every hundred men who see and
examine and try on the garments. Will you
be one this spring? If you've never tried
SALEM WOOLEN MILLS CLOTHING
FOR MEN AND YOUNG MEN
DO SO NOW
And you will always wear it in the future.
Suppose you come in and see the extraordinary
values we are offering in .
SALEM AVOOLEN MILLS SACK
' SUITS FOR SPRING AT
Every one brim full of snap, dash gingery
style that stamps one as a swell dresser. Ex-
elusive yet correct in every fashion detail; in
all the new shades and pattern-effects; of fine
worsteds, cassimeres, serges and other desir-
able suitings. Nothing like these ever sold in v
Portland under a third more. .
ficH to kj f.tl1. ,mnnmVmA r
over nine years tbt haa not hm4 a rmend '
of lard ia her bouse, nsicf COTTOLEJfE'
CIothicRf. Farni5hcw. -Tailoi-cr
Si