THE OREGON DAILY JOURNAL, PORTLAND, TUESDAY EVENING, APRIL V 20. 1009. ! EXPENSIVE ! NERVES t ' arlous phases, concern in One hundred and fifty united states era en- : .1 To Titillate, Them Has Cost r 3Ian Untold 3Iillions Since Time Began What Per fumes Are Made of and How They Are Made. Kd In in manufacture of perfumery, Their capital aggregate perhaps $2. t.ou.000, and the value of their annual products la Dtiiwem H, OOO, 000 and , OOO, 000. If the bualnetia of making other proprietary lonei goods, . cosmetics ana almllar articles la taken lino account, ths fig urea muat be doubled. The American perfumer' business haa increased greatly during the laat li Vftrs. In lllkll th n i . Iiwp AP nalAh. Ilahmenta here. Including those making cosmetics, etc., waa only 7. The tin t out of American ierfumera haa In creased Si 1-1 per cent durlna; the laat Ave year a and there. was an equal per centage of Increase durlna; the 10 year previous. Half a million dollara' worth of essential olla and other raw materl- ala for perfumers la Imported Into thl in a 1 froi inree aa rr tlcally been transferred to New . York country every year, The Ixmdon market for muak haa ttar of roses Incrensed from 31,000 alone the 1m porta In ounce in ma to SM9 ounrea In 1906. f f ? it 7 , - W, s i 4 A hero who waa neglected liv ing and la forgotten dead,' ! to be ascribed his just meed by Mr. Haskln In Ms next article. Matthew Fontaine Maury was a giant, In ' his. grasp of nature's phenomena In their stupendous aspects. A recital of his srebtevfe ments, vast In conception and vast In practical results, forms a tale of thrilling interest, ; Maury foresaw and. Indeed, outlined nearly all ther great , enterprises that have beefi taken up since his day. Ha wafe a truly great man and one it is good to know historically. Ujr FREiiEUIO 4. RASKIN. Copyright 1909 by Frederfe J. Haskln.) J. Washington. April 20". The Manufac- turing Perfumers' association of the United States, has just Clotted its an ' nual convention at New -York pity. T'p ward of 100 American perfumers Rath r ered to discuss their business In all Its 1 TBB CXBOX7S acrobat finds it necessary at all times ,. to keep his muscles and Joints supple That is the reason that hundreds of '"- them keep a. bottle of Ballard's Snow J J.lniment always on hand. A sure cure . t. for rheumatism, cuts, sprains, sore throat, lame back, contracted muscles. corns, bunions and all pains. Price 25c, . Me and fl.00 per bottle. Sold by Skid i more Drug Co. during the last few years. ; aw Materials Imported. . While enormous quantities of per fumery are made in the United States, the Industry practically depends upon Imported raw materials. .w such -raw materials very little is produced In this country, the total - production of essen tial oils In America being valued at t!00,000 a year. This production In cludes 150,000 pounds of peppermint oil and some witch haael, wlntergreen, etc., which can hardly be claused aa perfum er's materials. Flower fields are culti vated in California to soma extent. The agricultural department la experiment ing In flower growing, for perfumery purposes at Washington, and In Florida the cultivation of oris, geranium, lav ender and many Imported plants is be ing encouraged. 'America, however. Is a freat field tor the perfumer to exploit, n addition to the t5.000.000 or 18.000,000 worth of . perfumery manufactured In this country,. Imports of perfumery continue to increase. World's Greatest riowar Garden. , Francs 1 the center of th world's perfumery trade and the little, ancient town of Granee. on the Riviera., "the axure aide of the Mediterranean," lathe center of the French trade and the Mecca of the world's perfumers. From that little town $6,000,000 worth of perfumes are exported yearly. The place la literally smothered with flow era. Sixty thousand acres, or 93 square miles, .of land are covered with flower beds at GrasKe, not to mention many thousand more acres cultivated in other parts of southern France. Ten or twelve billion pounds of flow ers are gathered in and about Grasse every year. There are 770 tons of jes- an mi no blossoms harvested. One hun dred and sixty-five tons of tuberoses pay tribute to the perfume makers, as do also 2750 tons of orange blossoms, with roses, violets. Jonquils and other flowers In proportion. As may be 1m aglned the 20,000 people of Grasse are verv bukv. J neir harvest lasts tnrouen- out the-year, except about tw6 or three months In the dead of winter, the early spring . flowers coming In March and so on through 'the list . until the cassia, whose scent enters into many perfumes oi commerce, blooms late in the talk - Bulgaria the Boss Center. Bulgaria Is the center of the rose cul ture. In, that country of recently ac quired Independence, 660,000 acres of roses are grown and their essence con verted into oil or attar of roses. The mm' coop ill LEGISLATION ' - i r ' Chamberlain's Secretary Se- cures for New-' Members ' Valuable Privilege. (Wanhlastea Bareaa ef The Journal. Washington, April 20.- "Bob" Capias, nvate secretary to (Senator Chamber atn. completed A roup d'etat when to day Vice President Eherman signed resolution that overturns the custom prevalent for half a century, of glvln to outgoing senator and representatives the franklna privilege, and all publla aocuments, seeas and puDiicauons up to the December following the Close ol their terma of offica. When ha name here aa Chamberlain secretary he found this custom robbed nis cnier or tnese vaiuatue pnvnegea. 1m Mt nlwitit tn nvrturn f ha ruatom. - First ha mad tha new membera of tha Ka. "sea and repent." Eventually he got a resolution passed reacinuiu Then he tackled the senate, hy goodJ work aend hi tha . reaolution througn. Sherman signed it today, and Senator Chamberlain and all other members therefor have the distribution of all Tinted matter issued by the senate or ion ia v ular among. all. new members and orl by Joint action of both houses. needleas to sa It I that Caplea Is now pop- ineir secretaries. t .United States takes about one third of this precious product. Tnis attar oi roses has been esteemed for many years nil tht vprv milntnaencA of Perfume. Twentv thousand noUnds of rose petals arm rennlrail tn mnk una round of at tar, worth $200. A thousand pounds of jessamine petals' can only produce one pound or neron, worm izu. irom wmcn tne favorite eau ae coiogne is raw Sxtraotion jrooss. There are four different processes of getting the perfume from nower-Dy expression, distillation, maceration or extraction with volatile solvents.. Some- times the blossoms are spread on glass J Hates, which have oeen smearea witn ard. - There Is a peculiar affinity be tween tH essence of tha flower and this product of the lowly pig which causes the latter to absorb the former. In this process the flowers are changed freauentlv. fresh flowers Deing spread on the plates es often as 80 times, .until the lard Is completely saturated. In the process of maoeratlon, flowers are thoroughly masnea up ana put in melted lard, and afterwards toe iara is Others are -extracted by Dickory,Dickory,Dock, Mama looked at the clock, "Only half past nine and the clothes on the line, I tell you washing with Fels-Naptha is fine, And every last piece, even to baby's f rpek, Is clean and white." Dickory, Dickory, Dock. .Ask any doctor if there is a quicker way to catch cold than to, get all steamed up and then go into the cold air. Some women folks get colds like that nearly every washday. ' : . They do their washing in the old boil ing way with a hot fire and steaming suds. The Fels-Naptha way of washing is a wonderful health-saver. It takes away all danger of catching cold. - v . . The washing is done in cool or luke warm water no boiling ..or rteaming, no hot suds. . It's much easier, too. You don't wear yourself out because, the Fels-Naptha does all the work no hard rubbing. There are other reasons why you should use Fels-Naptha Soap. It doesn't take half as long as the old way; saves fuel; much easier "on the clothes and makes them cleaner and sweeter. . But, if you value your health, that alone is good reason for doing your wash ing the Fels-Naptha way. In the Winter or Summer. " V Follow directions on the red and green wrapper. . : : strained off. This is repeated many ttmes. A pomade is formed In these ways which may he dissolved Jn alco hol. perf are distilled. steam. The history of perfumery Is practi cally the history of the human race. The most ancient peoples known were familiar with the use of aromatic gums, wnniis and almllar substances. In an cient Greece and Rome perfumes' con stituted part of the food and drink,: as well as being used in the toilet of the Dflonle. The perfumer's art almost dis appeared from Europe when the barba rians or the north ana tne east oionea out ancient civilisation. During the middle sees perfumes were hardly known In western Europe, but they sur vived among oriental peoples and were rediscovered by the crusaders. From that time on their use became more general. s Tne favorite perrumes or racee. a of individuals, very from time to time. For some years violet has been the fa voritw In this, country. It takes 33.000 kilograms of this Jjlossom to make one Uiloirrnm of oil of violets; which, how ever, must be greatly diluted to maae the extract of . commerce. Rosa has been popular ever since - the birth -of that queen of flowers in Persia thou sands of years ago, and If reports are true the queen Is coming Into her own favorite. Musk, the most powerful of all perfumesfor an lnflnttesmal grain of It will scent a large room for many years without being perceptibly reduced In bulk and other "heavy" perfumes used to he favored In the modern world, but ; their odors are objectionable to some people, There was a riot In a Berlin tram car some years ago on account of a woman perfumed with musk.- Persons using German cologne -were assaulted during the siege of .Paris, and the use of per fumes nas frequently been associated with patriotism. " It ls tie 'fashion to use only small quantities tit perfumery now. Oriental scents are considered exclusive' by the society woman. Usny Sources to Draw Front. - The perfumers have an Immense field to draw from in carrying on their trade. Over 200 aromatic substances, animal and vegetable, are known,' but there is every- reason to believe that many oth ers are 1n x1stence, notably among the vegetation of remote parts of Africa and South .America. It is possible that ex-President .Roosevelt may discover some of these in his expedition through the dark continent. . . i The perfumer - draws honey from scores of - varieties of flowers, native ana 4oreign '; i-tis agents scour tne for ests or ttiR world, ana secure sandal wood. camnl!orj-asln and other sweet- smelling, woods and gums. Tire fruit kinedim is levied uoon heavily for the oils of ' orange, lemon, olive, lime and oergamot ao ror tne essence ot al monds -and peach, apricot ; and prune kernels. The -lowliest plants, including shrubs,'' vegetables and weeds, such as mint, pepper, the vanilla bean, and oth er simple things growing in all climates are not exempt. The muak deer of the Himalayas, the rtvet cat of Asia, and the Canadian and Moenan beaver stye among the animals FIGHT TO tlAKE TEXAS ALL DRY. Prohibitionists, Encouraged by Kear-Victory, Line Up for Finish. Ran Antonio, Texas. April JO. Stats wide prohibition missed being ft realty In Trias by an eyelash, falling of carry in in tha present aesaion of tha legis lature by such narrow margin as to five ths liquor Interests a bad scare, t now develops that ths prohibition element of Texas, far from feeling the t.mDorarr defeat, are elated at the olna. nrnxlmltv tn aiicceaa which they stained, and ara rarefullr manning out , their plana to make Texas a dry state atlv -of ths Japanese prim minister, ar on their way to Rxattla and will arrive hers within a fnw days to study industrial and economic condition, and to mak. a careful Investigation of all that ia new and suggestive In the way of , sxpoaltlon methods, Preparations are being made to entertain them by the' official of ths Alaska-Vukon-Pa-rifle exposition and cltiaene of Seattle. The Japanese envoys ar now at New York qity. . , , ... m ; Aftrrss Win 10,000 Suit. , t (United Pits Le4 Wlr. Ban1 Francisco, April JO. Attention waa attracted ' to Ixtta M. Crabtrea, years ago a footllght favorit on tha pacific I'oaet. when It was learned to day that eh had been awarded Judg ment for M.000 In! . hsr. Ths Judgment la agalsat th atat of tli. Ute Kdwin Fitwell. T caa has been pending for ,uni tlm.. Big crowds out Sunday, It won't taks manr such days to cloa out Gregory Heights. Bftrr get buay, S Urs gory's ad. pag 4. . ' ' ' within I wm tinvr Iwn VMrM Prohibition leaders who have visited Ban Antdnlo within the past few days express a firm conviction that victory will soon .perch, triumphantly on their banner, and they make no secret or their plans to fores the fight to a de cisive conclusion . In this state. Chief amour the measures which iney win in ti.v tnrni-rM' in . ina meanuni. la th antl-treatlns; law, arguing that treating la largely responsible ror surn lnal.rl.lv aa Tha Rev. O. W. Elchelberger, on of ths most prominent of the antl-llquor forces, haa arnveo hers from a tour of tha state. H say; flvs counties ar already willing and anxious to Jjut tha question of wet or err voters in elections wnicn ' On; im mm mmm mMmr-. SIM ill """"ff,'"iiinfffii7'inr'h'fnr W3LW HANDBAGS PURSES MP BELTS We have the niQFt elaborate and exclusive display of exquisite and ultra-fashionable llanJbaf's, Purses and Leather Goods ever brought .to Portland. These poods are strictly up to date and fashionable, being the latest edict of fashion in Nejv York.-4 . We do not boast, but ask you to compare our line with others-7-1 that will unquestionably convince you that all-leather " goods are what you want. " " ' Prices $1.00 to ?50.00. "Largest assortment. New colors Cendre de Rose, Amethyst, Smoke, Wistaria, Catawba. dry to th Mr. Elchelberger will devote two or will very likely bs held In July or Aug- list thre e months to uexar county, nivnry ward in th. Cliv-or Han Anionin nu CROSS LONDON GLOVES FOR WOMEN, MEN AND CHILDREN very precinct In th county will b thorouahlv organised.' and prohibition clubs started In all of them. - MALHEUR SETTLERS . SUBMIT PETITION (Special- pupateh to taa Journal.) . Ontario, Or., April iO.' Considerable sentiment In favor of the Malheur ntaft ha. heen created here on ac count of a private company attempting! to secure a footing. The company is from Twin Falls and its filings on the waters of the Owyhee river have been rejected bv the government. The com pany has filed a protest and asked ths Honortmnnt to oostoone action until its representatives, who are now on the road, can reach Washington to, present their claims; - . ' r' ' About S per cent of the land owners have slanlfled their preference for-tne government project. A petition bear-. ng about luuu signatures or lmeresiru persons nas oeen rorwaraea to waner Griffedli; director of the Malheur Wa ter Users association, who Is In wasn-ina-ton. askinir the reclamation depart ment to refuse the petition of. the pri vate company as they (the land owners) want government irrigation. Besides the land owners, the busi ness men of Ontario. Vale, Weiser and Pavette. are uslnar every effort to in duca tne government to come in. FASTEST DESTROYER IN NAVY LAUNCHED BATH TOWELS REDUCED The best bargains ever offered in bath towelsbetter lay iri a supply now. See window display. Regular 30c BATH TOWELS Sale Price.. "...10 Regular 35c BATH TOWELS Sale Price 23 Regular 40c" BATH TOWELS Sale Price 27 Regular 45c BATH TOWELS Sale Price .....32 Regular 75c BATH TOWELS Sale Price 53 Regular 85c BATH TOWELS Sale Price.. -63 Regular. 10c WASH RAGS Sale Price.. .2 for 15 .' ' 1 S 1-41 J 1 I mm that are hunted fOr tha substances they roduce, and which ths perfumers want, 'he erreatest mammal in existence, the whale,produces the precious ambergris, which forms the base of many perfumes to wnicn u imparts a lasting quality. This ambergris is found floating on the surface of the sea, or cast up by the waves; especially along the shores of the Indian ocean. Not even metals es cape the perfumer, the peculiar odors of some being used in certain combinations. Chemistry Extends ths Ust. In short, the perfumer neglects noth ing in his mission of catering to th olfactory nerve of the human race. Wltnout . havlnr exhausted the re sources of nature, he Is appealing; to science, and synthetic chemistry is do ing wonders for him. Already many perfumes of flowers have been pro- nucea amriciany. -jonone-'- or arti ficial violet was first obtained In 1893. Other odors have since been repro duced by the chemist. Twenty-fivs thousand pounds of "vanillin." or arti ficial vanilla, are made every yearand murh of It used by perfumers. "Hello-tropln."- or artificial whits heliotrope, Is mads from ths ordinary garden pep per. Artificial perfumes of carnation, hyacinth and hawthorns are obtained Philadelphia. ' April 20. The torpedo boat destrtoyer Smith, the first of a new type of vessel and wnicn is expectea to ave a greater speed ana a wioer steam ing radius than any nnwdn the United States navy, was successfully launched today at Cramps' shipyard. The chris tening ceremony was performed by Mrs. Idward it. mcnarasnn -oi , jsriiunwHo,., Mass. Mrs. Richardson ts a cnugnter or Roar Admiral Plllsbury and a distant relative of lieutenant Joseph B. Smith, In memory of whom the vessel launched fnriig was namcl. Lieutenant Smith was a distinguished officer of the navy during the civil war period, and was In command of the warship Congress when that vessel was sunk in Hampton Roads by the confederate Jronclad Vir ginia. ' '. ' . ' ST. LOUTS BREAKS C0ALINO RECORD fTtnitnf Pima teased Wire.) Navy Tard, Puget Sound, Wash., April 20. What Is said to be the world's record In coaling a warship has been made hers by the i cruiser St. Louis, which took on 1 BOO tons of coal In 14 hniira while lvinar at her berth alongside the pier. This record is all the more 1-Amn.rkahle when the fact is consld rH that the St. Louts Is In reserve and carries only one-third her full comple ment or men. . . The battleship Virginia has hereto fr held the record for takina- on coal Her record was made with a full force nt man nhnard. The St. Louis Is ready for sea duty and is now awaiting sailing orders from Washington. POISON IN BABY'S REACH; HE'S DEAD rTTniled Press Lead WIra.V Kverett. Wash. April 20. A box of strvchnine and belladona bills careless ly left where an inquisitive child could reach them caused the death of Morris Love, tne u-year-oia son or a. w. ijove, an employe or tna Kverett ijignrcom- panyvi ;r: -r. The child awoke befors his' parents, arose and during his explorations about the house rounn a dox wnicn contamea what he thought was candy. Physicians arrived too .late to save ths child's life. FARMERS' INSTITUTE AT WHITE SALMON ' (Special Dtipatcb t Tti Joareati Husum.Wash., April 20. A farmers' Institute will he held st Whit Salmon April 27 and 28. At that tlm demon stration trains will be run through western Washington 1n the Interest of better farming. Professor R. W. Thatcher of the state college st Pull man, superintendent of farmers' Insti tutes, will be present at the meetings at White Salmon. JAPS COME TO GET EXPOSITION POINTERS (United Prtai Leaaed Wir.t Seattle, April 20. HlkaJIro Wada, di rector general of the International ex position to be held at Toklo in 1117, and Tokutaro Sakai. personal represent- sJgfeta T"" Am BEAUTIFUL AMPHORA ARTWARE Thousands of pieces of this fine Ira ported Art Ware on q-ile THIS WEEK, HALF PRICE '".-) lPiPniiii-'ii!ii lullinij"'! . iijr 'is si . j-1 1 - j s. . i iii'ii'jriiiiiiiiiiiliiaiiiiiiir n.i iiiiiii'iSiiiriiiiii iiiiiiiiiiuiiiiiu.l ,n n .. See window display also display. on ; First Floor and the Third Floor. k ARTISTIC PICTURE FRAMING W00DARD, CLARKE & CO. FOURTH AND .WASKINGI'N from, other vegetables. In many cases trie ooors or tries artificial olla ar un bearabl. It la onl v bv rret dilution and by combination with other and nat ural seen that an acceptable perfume ia obtained. Thle Is also true of th purely natural esaence. Ths greatest proof of the ability of a perfumer Is his success In making successful blenda and combinations. It might b supposed thst th devel opment of synthetic chemistry would Interfere with th production of natursj perfumes, but so far nature and srlenc. have supplemented each ether, and It Is TrdictMt that thle will continue. The cultivation of- violets and other flow ers ror perfumery purpose l actually Increasing. Th perfumer has caught the eaaenc of new mown hav. but ther are many of nature's -nts ef which n Ma no yet discovered th secret, as. for Instance, the refreahins kt ef th brwxe n1 the d-Hahtful "weodajr"" smell f th forest ftr a rain. rrrfura.rf l rx-rn!r1 mm an aid ta mnunrwm, am aa a aiatnroetant. irr arid sandalwood are u4 as eVo-' flnrur In th modem hntne. as t hrf hav hea I hou ef rM(lni wer- t.lp for fcw(m ha eai that! Mr snul m be lorat4 tm the lfac torv ricr- m Mnwr t i, t mm w .m it tm I a f' that I-1k-Ims ferfeaa Is mest ! exeJustvelv' exaiuns to tr. mr , . I Tbt Stent ef Prlzt TTInnlnj Pittry. Fourteen prizes nearly all of them firsts) out of fifteen entries of cake and fine pastry Is a record that any woman might envy. This was the showing made recently by Mrs., J. H. Chastain, too S. Boulevard, Atlanta, Ga., at the Geooria State Fair. Her explanation of her suol cess i decidedly interesting; she write j "I eatercd mimm cakes asd six tries at the Georgia Bute Fsir, Atlasta. Ga. woe eight trst ) preaBunsaaecas. ure am prpwntau aaal twe 1 aecoeds a pies, alas first pfvaalasa mm geeerat ! dikplay. I attribute sjy succeaa hi cake makiag ; altogether ta aauij- COTTOCEX as4 Ml bsttec"- ... .. V ' j Mrs. Chastain is' the wife of the Master Mechanic of the Western & Atlantic R.R-. and enjoy a high local repotatkm for her ; one cooamgr. o( oniy ooe-s ane nee COTTOLENE ia tnakin ar cakes or crvsts.! and other pastry; but for Irymr cmcken. MEN AND YOUNG MEN WHO WANT CLOTHES OF LATEST FASHION Are the ones we are especially anxious to see. ( We know from experience that our styles, ourJ 'fabrics and ouf prices, invariably please ninety nine out of every hundred men who see and examine and try on the garments. Will you be one this spring? If you've never tried SALEM WOOLEN MILLS CLOTHING FOR MEN AND YOUNG MEN DO SO NOW And you will always wear it in the future. Suppose you come in and see the extraordinary values we are offering in . SALEM AVOOLEN MILLS SACK ' SUITS FOR SPRING AT Every one brim full of snap, dash gingery style that stamps one as a swell dresser. Ex- elusive yet correct in every fashion detail; in all the new shades and pattern-effects; of fine worsteds, cassimeres, serges and other desir- able suitings. Nothing like these ever sold in v Portland under a third more. . ficH to kj f.tl1. ,mnnmVmA r over nine years tbt haa not hm4 a rmend ' of lard ia her bouse, nsicf COTTOLEJfE' CIothicRf. Farni5hcw. -Tailoi-cr Si