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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Dec. 27, 1908)
1 1 i ,- vv v 1. ' U4 II '0' MATTEK bow optlmtattb ns may t, It must ba admitted "that rainy day do com and tht one needs not only prepare (or pleasant weather, but also for the time when Old King Sol has hidden his head under a rain cloud. And why is it that women have so little realization of the proper costume for a rainy day? It does not suffice Just to wear last year's suit and soma old hat. The woman who takes any pride in her appearance vhas always at hand a costume appropriate to wear In the rain, but which will still be becoming- and dainty, even if the good rays of the un break through. How many times have you gone out in the rain attired in some old suit, and felt that you were at a decided dis advantage when the weather changed, leaving you still out and not pre paredT Yet If you had worn a becom ing yet small hat. a plain, well-fitting suit and a trig neck arrangement . 9 THE FORMAL CALL THE etiquette of calling Is some times a very serious affair, and a great deal of trouble has brewed In diplomatic, circles, and even In everyday walks of life, on account otjgnorance In thla very ImporUnt phase of social intercourse. Not very long ago a New York woman mo'vad out West to a mining town, which boasted ot only three feminine - Inhabitants: the new- ar rival, a young girl and her aunt. Of course. Just after the Easterner ar rived the tint and - the young gin paid their respects by leaving cards turned down In the proper place. But when the New Torker returned the call ahe rode to the house on horse back. Soon afterward she invited the y ,ng girl to luncheon, and what was her: surprise when the aunt refused to allow, her niece to accept the in-, vltatlon on the ground that her .call bad never been properly - returned. Said he: "Any one who comes to , my house in such Informal attire' as a riding habit cannot be considered to know, the proper usages of society!" So tlje woman of New York, who had been In the whirl of gaiety all her Ufa, was censured by the woman of the western country town. You see how easy it i to be neglectful . of one small 'detail..- which may influence, many years" ot your life. Toe New York woman 'found that she was de nied the pleasure of having as a com-. panlon the1 young grlrl. the only.; woman of her age within hundreds .of miles. V . , !,;, ,. , - . , . . .v Iphfe m Soda! , 1 -i V you would have felt no embarrassment whatever when the clouds did disap pear. Look at the girl In the picture with a dressy suit, a long- skirt and a feathered hat. She may look very at tractive in the sunshine, but how will she be when the rain has soaked the hem of her dress, when the curl, comes out of her plume? Surely it would have been better had she worn a more suit able costuma or at least a shorter skirt. How much neater the other girl looks in her raincoat and walking sklrtt . No shower or even cloudburst could make her look bad, and she need have no fear Vbat the downpour will spoil her garments. But even with a skirt of walking length it is quite possible to be incor rectly dressed. There is the picture of the girl in the tailored suit. She looks fairly Well, but around her neck she wears a piece of chinchilla, one of the dressiest and most perishable of furs, am ' not upholding the decision of the , too ' particular Westerner nor am I saying that she was wrong, but a first call is rather a formal matter and H should be returned In the same form as it was : made. There are certain times when ' one makes a formal call, and there are certain forms to be remembered.. , It Is of these that X wish to tell you, o you may avoid the pit falls that await the new arrival In a community and the commuter when he first settles In the "suburbs" ' of song and poem. . W'v '' --. . In the first piace, visiting cards are, of course, a necessity, and they should always be engraved with the full 'name of the owner, so he or she may be defi nitely designated. M. Jones means noth ing . whatsoever, While Mortimer Jones might Immediately .lace him In the memory of his acquaintances. A man seldom has his address upon hie cards, although his wife almost always does. It Is not, however, obligatory. A girl, unless she be ltb oldest granddaughter In her branch of the family, cannot use the title' tnlss combined with the last name only - She , must use , her first . name to Indicate that she is not the old est child bearlna that surname. A mar ried woman uses, of course, her title, mlBtress, and her Jiusband's full name, whether she be wife or widow. If she be a divorcee, then she will usually use , ier maiden name combined with the ast name of her. ex-husband. ' It Is In thin way that a distinction can be made. Xeyer use any abbreviation on a visit ing card, with the exception, ot junior. It is quite, permissible to add Junior after, the man's name If the generation must be indicated. . When making the first call a wife win always leave Jier husband's card as well - as her own. If she' Is calling upon an other married couple,-then she will leave : . two of her husband's cards and one of -her own. It there is an older daughter upon whom she must also call, she must leave two of each. Some people leave . ' a card of the man's for every one In the family, and a card of ; the' woman's for G oncerning Health and Beauty By I s -sN 1 while the hat 'that crowns her Is large and on the semi-dressy order. How much better to wear a toque, even one of the most conservative type, and not the vey top of the fashion! The girl with the plain, tightly-fitting ruche of astrakhan and the small hat Is clad In far better taste. A comparison of the two photographs will show the differ ence, for even those who do not know the Intricacies of good form are quick to notice the slightest improvement In appearance. But perhaps you are wondering why it is that I. on a page devoted to health and beauty, am writing to you on the subject of dress. Has not all dress a great deal to do with beauty T Would it be worth while for me to help you spend hours in caring for your com plexions and yet say no word of warn ing in regard to dressing? Would It be worth while for any one to have the most perfect complexion in the world every feminine member only. This seems to me to be a very foolish performance, and I consider that four cards, two of the man's and two of his wife's, should be sufficient to indicate that every one had been remembered. There is one family with whom I am acquainted who have seven daughters. How ridiculous It would be to leave nine of my. hus band's cards and eight of mine! There was once a custom of turning . down the corners of the cards. This has, happily, become obsolete, with the exception of one turn in the upper right hand corner, which indicates that it is the first call. But even this is seldom done, it used to be the fashion to turn down one corner when the footman left the cards, another for the second call : and still another when the cards" were left in person. It is easy to see that one would need a complete guide for the manipulation of visiting cards were this custom still In force. PAETY CALLS The residents of a neighborhood al . ways call soon after the arrival of a - new neighbor., They also make the first call upon a bride. Cards should be left at the ho vise of those who have gone Into mourning, regardless of who has paid the last ealL lUnner parties, evening receptions, balls, wedding breakfasts and lunch, "eona require a party call within two weeks after the date of the function. Tea and weddings alone require no party call. When tea cards are sent out it merely means that the hostess -cU be home on a certain day to re ceive her friends. For that reason those' who cannot attend should mall their cards, for a visiting card should be regarded as the person her or him self.' Perhaps that Is a little exag sratsd, but I am sure that you un derstand what I mean, that there Is no other way of sending a proxy ex tpt by card. .: . f People often ask: "How can I tell . When to call, -and how can I' tell whether I am wanted or not?" You cannot tell if you are wanted until A I. AlRSjiENItY SXMES z j if she mar her appearance by dressing in poor taste and in inappropriate cloth ing? Surely I would be a bad adviser if I were to neglect this side of the question. And really rainy days are quite gloomy enough without making them more unpleasant by appearing at your worst. I can understand people taking special care of their toilets In dreary weather. I once knew a girl who wore silk stockings on .rainy days because, she explained, she could hold her skirts out of the dampness with confidence In the trlmness of her ankles. That may be carrying the point a little too far, but I am sure if you follow my advice and wear only clothes that fit the day you will feai at no disadvantage in spite of the inclemency of the weather. W jou arrive at the house, when you can easily Judge by the manner of your reception. As for the time for call ing, make it a point never to par a formal call on Sunday afternoon nor on any evening. All first calls must be paid in the afternoon of a week-day. between the hours of 4 and . A call must always be returned, and It is wise to perform this duty within a month. After you have passed the first stages of formality It is not necessary to leave cards each time you go to a house. That Is a matter of common sense and good Judgment. One more point: Should you call on a friend and find that you have ar rived during: an entertainment to which you are not invited, then re main but a very few moments, make your excuses and depart. In your own house, in case some caller might arrive, leave word at the front door that yeu beg to be excused. This is not to save you annoyance so much as to save your friends embarrass ment. PERPLEXITIES j SOLVED . . . . .At iht Second Marriage DOES one give wedding presents to widows or widowers on the oooasloa of their second marrlasst AN IMJCTREB. Yes. indeed; It Is quite the thing to do; rt makes no difference whether the man or woman has been married before or not In fact, widows frequently re ceive many more presents than roung single girls, because they often have a larger circle of acquaintances. Marriage and Mourning 3 Will yon kindly tell me what to 'the eraiMr length of time to allow between th iaalh ot a relative and the announc.meM v of an encasement te be married T 1VA F. Personally, I always regard an en gagement and ' a marriages as being V- t : '"':' V - '.'- : ' ' :;. .V. .! 0 ' !i . :i . " er --k ii It t , serious enough to take their own places, in spite of the fact that the family may be In modrning. I should,' how ever, not announce the engagement for a month after the death of your rela tive, and, if you are not to be married very soon, do not announce it until Just before the wedding invitations are to be sent out. If you are to be married very soon, do not make a function ot the ceremony. Let it be as quiet as possible and Invite very few people to the ceremony. What Should be Done With the Umbrella? X go out very often to call with my mothsr, but I never seam to know what to do with mr umbrella or parasol. Should It be taken Into the drawing room, left outside or siren to the rvrif.T. DEBUTANTE. There Is no special rule In regard to this matter, but common sense should teach one a great deal. If the umbrella Is wet. It mar be left In the hall; and If It Is very wet, it may be given to the servant when entering the house. If the ' umbrella Is dw, It may be brought to the drawing room. However, if you are sufficiently familiar with the family, you may put the umbrella in the stand. A parasol Is always carried. Engagement Rings Are engagement rings still tMhlonl. No one has ever thought of engage ment rings going out of fashion, as they are perfectly logical presents for a man to give bis prospective bride. Some men prefer to give pendants, but as they may be .worn enly at certain times and with certain gowns, they are very unsatisfactory. Dinner at a Restaurant v I am going to give a dinner at .a res taurant neat month, and I want to know tf it i naccaaary tohave the same number of saSfmen. H th.jr should g Into the dining room In pairs, the same " it U were la ."0UiARkABBr K. . It Is not absolutely necessary that you should bavs the same number " as women, but I think you will find the party to be more pleasant If you do. In entering the dining room of a pubUo restaurant It Is better for the women to precede; that Is, if 'the tables are already engaged. The hoet or hostess may walk first and led the way. - To prevent a confusion and to Insure tne right seating, cards should be arranged at each one's place, el Mrs. Symes Aids to Correspondents O WINO to the great amount ot mall received and the limited space given this department, it Is absolutely Impossible to an swer lotters iu the Sunday issue follow ing their receipt. The letters must be answered in turn, and this ofttlmes re quires three or four weeks. All correspondents who desire an im mediate answer must Inclose a self addressed stamped envelope for a reply. This rule must also be complied with in regard to personal letters. Bichloride of Mercury In your recipe for face bleach rou men tion bichloride as one ot the Ingredients, t would like to know If that isn't harmful, for I hear It Is a deadly poison. ANNA B. It Is true that bichloride of mercury Is a poison and must not be taken in ternally.' However, when it is used in connection with so much water it will do no harm to apply It to the face. Do not use the solution oftener than once every two weeks. An Excellent Hair Tonic Please rlre mo something as soon aa pos sible to make the hair grow. Mine la com ing out so (ast that I rear I will soon be bald. FLUFFT. In order to keep the hair in good con dition it Is necessary that you give it special attention; that Is, brush it often and give It a sunbath whenever possi ble. I am printing herewith a tonlo which it will be well for you to use. For Falling: Hair. Cologne I ounces Tincture of cantharidee 1. Oil of Enellah lavender 1 ounee H dram OU of rosemary H dram Apply to the roots of the hair once or twice a day. It is poeltively necessary that the scalp ahould be kept clean. Bhamooo at least once a week. Is It a Permanent Cure? In a recent paper you gave a formula for curing bunions. Is this remedy merely to allay the- pain, or has It a tendency to re move the bunion? INQUISITIVE. I do not think 'it Is ever possible to remove a bunion, as it is caused by the 'pressure of too short a shoe, but it is possible to cure the pain, and the recipe to which you refer will do the latter. I have heard that a very good way to allay the pain and It sounds like a simple one, too is to , wrap twisted cotton round and round, leav ing an open space just over the bun ion. Then pour hot lard over the bun- ' ion. Great caution should be used If one tries this cure, for there Is danger ot burning the foot if one is not very care ful. It is well to have some one else perform the operation tor you. To Acquire White and Soft -::v- Hands Will -yeu kindly publish a jrcipe for something to soften and whiten the handsT I would ilka some simple remedy that can be made at h ome. HOUSEKEDTPEB. The following recipe Is one which can easily be prepared at home: Lotion toWhiten and Sof teif irands, Put "nt a bottle two ounces, of glycerine. - two ounce, of water, four taWespoonfu of lemon Juice and. a tvr Oropa of tarbollo acid Shake well. After washing and art' . Ins the h5e rub Z little of this ailature Into them. , .. , : . , v Chapped Lips Mr lips chap every time X s out In tfia wind, ana. uiougn I n come vnr sore, what war a. veil, they . , do for them? When the Up have been chapped b cold or wind, they should have an ap plication of cold cream every nlgbt, Be fore applying the cream, however, bath the lips In very warm water. Before going out a mixture ot tosewates) a4. glycerine may be applied. ; . To 'Bleach a Swim J Is there any wr to bleach a switch Kins U darker thaa my growinr hair. First put your switch Into a strong toy Xstlon of ammonia water to remove) anjf possible oil i then rinse ta equal quanUn tie of peroxide of hydrogen and puraV water. Hans the switch) la the air tj dry. If the color Is then, not quit right, repeat the peroxide bath and drying process until it hag attained th ahada fleshed, k . t . . . . . " Kecipe for a Vomad can halo me. x. Tt a, I am giving; you a recipe for a pomade which will restore shrunken and flabby kin. Apply the mixture to the neck very night. , SIL,?' ?? almonds... ounces ouncM ounces DunaM Tlnoture bensoln . 'I'J!' u. Rowwater ...V...." 111 Pulverized tannin - s drams Jaborandi Tonic W0KK1EI. Massage your scalp once a day with the, tips of the fingers, and then apply the tonic, recipe of which I am giving you. A very good way to get the tonlo on the scalp is to pour : little of the solution into a saucer, then dip a small brush-a toothbrush will do-lnto It and then apply it to the head very gently! Jaborandi Tonic. Quinine sulphate ... , - tenwuiir ""'d ounces Kosewater Xl fluid ounct the otherlnsrVdisnU Tadae' SSf "XZ JEZZ into tit root at Uio hair vry nit ht. Massage Cream for the Bust -S.11 J??..klP"l,.?lvt am to use .m?W1'r '? buetT I want Some thing that to harmless. Mrs. J, D. M. You will find the following recipe tor massage cream a harmless one: I-anolin ...... s Spermaceti ..'" " "iz 2V"" gpT.uwee7mo,Vd.:.':;::;;::- sees cm "SZtt, bn90ia "' J Sri1 uu of neroll X drops Mix as you would anv cream of the sort Rub on gently at night. . n To Reduce the Hips ,,LIV.,,oav,arclp .,or ,nrthiBg to redu'oe the hlpsT Mine ere too Urge for the present-day styles, A&EAC&vK. The best way to reduce the hips is t take exercise, and I think you will fini the following- one very beneficial: . , First, raise the outstretched arms above the head, the body retainm IU erect post- ' tlon: then bend slowly rorward from the waist, so that the Angers eome aa near touching the floor as possible, without straining In any way. This is dan without pending the knees. In recoverinc position let the arms relax and sink down a the body straightens up. Second, with hands Placed lightly on the blue, the flnsra pointing forward, let the body drop forward easily, so that It Is bent at the waist. This must be- done gently, aa by Jerkin more sl tlon roll the body roun.t to the right. DA. being bent over the side: then bat-k ta the rrout, Deing careiui to do it very easily at nrst till the muscles- have gained strength, for an exaggeration of the movement n-ay cause real paiu. Then on to the left and bade to the front. ractice again, only start to ward the left. The waist avcts as a pivot on which the trunk swings, and the bead is easily relaxed. Third. In this exercise the . hands have the same position, but now the body is bent forward from the waist j then back: then to the right and left. . gacl movement should occupy four counts. Taae theee exercises genUy. but let the . move men ta be firm and strong. Avoid the slightest strain of the. muscles. No corsets ahould be worn while practicing them. For Chapped Hands Uuring the cold weather my hands chap every time I go out Into the air. Will you please give me something to make them smooth! A REAPER. Possibly you are not careful to dry your hands thoroughly after washing them. Very often this is the caue of rough and sore hands. I am giving you below a rer pe for a cream which you may apply to the hands every night: -'. ' Cream tor Chapped Hands. White petrolatum 14 ounces Paramne was .:,, L ounce 1 ounce . i.aiitmu Water a-..,...,,. ..lw ounces . drops Vi drun OU of rose Alcohol . . . Melt the parefflne wax. aM the petroie- turn and lanolin. rwiui. Add tne oil and alcohol ion wnr wu. . - The Beauty of Hair s-v-e.0 HAVE a pretty head of hair one I take care of it. No matter - X how tird you may U ' night, 'be sure to get rid of all combs '.i astiuw hair, shake - the hair l' and brush and comb it' thoroughly. if your hair is falling out and j . are using a hair tonlo, after well U"i -lng the hair, apply it to the -. It is best to use a tonio at l- t i for it gives the scalp pinty .( i " absorb it. ' . , , , . If tt Is npfmmry to tU f " ' ' ' exercise Judgment 'i ' conform with the. size ati-1 t s n of the head. ...