The Oregon daily journal., December 06, 1908, Page 67, Image 67

PATTERN AND DESIGN TRANSFER -SECTION
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EMBROIDERY FOR THE
BLOUSE OR DRESS WAIST
Now that embroidered decorations enter so largely into every
article of dress it behooves a woman to consider whether she can af
isrd to purchase her gowns from some fashionable dressmaker, already
embroidered in tin: latest style, or whether she must do the work of
ornamentation herself. The greater part of the price of a handsome
gown is saved when its owner is able to do the necessary needlework
upon it herself, so far as braiding, embroidering or making decorative
designs in fancy stitches is concerned. It is always possible to do
this, and the kind of stitches used in making the designs must be reg
ulated by the knowledge which one possesses of needlework and the
time at one's disposal. Work done in chainstitch, for example, takes
less than half the time that the same design would require were it
worked in satin stitch embroidery. At present chainstitch is very
fashionable, but satin stitch is, if anything, even more smart, and it
is something that never goes out of style, and carries with it a look
of exclusiveness and costliness. Sometimes a judicious mingling of
stitches can be effected with a most pleasing result, as when chain,
satin stitch, couching and seeding are combined in a pattern, so that
one gets the impression of a handsome piece of work.
The pattern presented in this issue affords most beautiful pos
sibilities in the way of combining stitches and mingling and shading
colors. The use of silk, satin and net blouses and waists with winter
dresses, to say nothing of short, hanging empire waists and decorative
satin coats, as well as of wash blouses, calls for embroidered decora
tions, and the same pattern is equally beautiful upon all these gar
ments, although the difference of the materials with which it is worked
and upon which it appears make- the design seem different in each one.
The large flower in the design is intended to be edged with padded
satin stitch, in varying widths. To one unaccustomed to this stitch
and eager for results, the double outline of the flower may be done
in either outline stitch or snail-trail stitch, which is much like it, and
as easy to make. Double lines of chainstitching may" also be employed.
Suppose the design to be of shaded blues, with a .bit of other colors
introduced, and with a background of cloth, silk or satin, according to
the material of vst'iich .he dress may be made; the.outvlr edges of the
large blossom could be worked in a light shade of blue filo silk, if
satin stitch be selected, otherwise rope silk would do better for out
lining purposes. Ttie long stamens in the center of the flower would
be worked in very light or very dark Llue. Other shades of blue silk
should be employed to make the seeding with which the large petals
are filled. This seeding is rapidly accomplished, since it is no more
than a mass of tiny knots, and any one can make those. The smaller
petals, after being bordered like the large ones, would be pretty done
in couching, catching down the lengthwise stitches, which extend from
edge to edge of the petals, with a darker or lighter thread. Couching
in colors mingled in this manner is very attractive, and nothing could
be easier, since to do the work merely means to lay a series of long
stitches close together and stitch them down in position with a cross
wise thread. Usually the crosswise thread is thinner than the other.
Solid discs or dots of another shade of blue or of gold, or some
other contrasting hue, may be so tinted as to make the smaller petals
very rich in effect. A design of this sort permits of a good deal
of color contrast in the borders, seedingand dots, and may be made
exceedingly beautiful by any one with a taste for mingling colors.
A combination of gold with browns and greens could be made very
lovely, for instance, and look equally well upon a bodice of am one
of these colors. . .
Even greater enrichment may be given the large conventionalized
.design of, grapes, or seed pods, which forms the dominant note in the
decoration. The outlining would be charming if a dark tint of the
selewd color were chosen for the lower motives and lighter shades
'ere used towards the top. The center of each oval might then be
filled in with seeding, couching or long and short stitch. Hie centers
may be shaded, or not," but Would be more artistic if shaded, although
the centers of the ovals which make up the design should not be of
the same tint as the border, if the pattern is intended to be very ef
fective. .
The accomplished needlewoman does not need suggestions a
to how she may best carry out this decoration, but " the amateui
would find these of help. First, outline all the lines of the pat
tern with thick outline thread of cotton or mercerized silk, if satin
stitch is to be the border (and it makes the richest edging). Fill
in the spaces between the double outlines with long stitches of fill
ing, or padding thread. Using a crewel or milliner's needle the
latter is not so good for this bit of work stitch across the padded
outline with even, close stitches, over and over, till all is smoothly
and beautifully covered. Then seed the center of each petal, or
work it around and around with chainstitch, or else couch down
the long, lengthwise stitches which may be employed to fill in the
"petals. It may be that nothing more than an outline design is
wanted, if so, omit everything else. ,
A third motive appears in this handsome pattern; a cornflower,
which may be worked in long and short stitch, or in any of the other
stitches mentioned. It would look best in long and short stitch or
chainstitch. These stitches should be made lengthwise of the petals
and the calyx and sepals of the flower may be worked in any of
the desired stitches and in contrasting or shaded colors. They
should not be worked in the same shades of color unless the design
is white.
The small leaves used in the design and intended for collars,
cuffs, corners of-revers and small panels and tabs, should be worked
in satin stitch if a very handsome effect is desired. They might also
be worked in Kensington embroidery and in chainstitch. All the
stems and spirals may be worked in stem stitch, rope stitch or satin
stitch. The latter takes a good deal of time and, unless the ma
terial is white and the embroidery of the same hue, it would not be
worth while.
Fancy stitches rarely look well in white embroidery unless the
material is very sheer and the threads for working rather heavy.
Satin stitch and seeding form the prettiest combination for designs
upon white goods of all classes, from a white broadcloth afternoon
gown to a satin dinner dress or a sheer mousseline or chiffon.
It will be noticed how readily the motives in . this shirtwaist or
dress bodice lend themselves to use upon all the portions of a dress.
The little sprays of leaves are suitable for borders upon any part
of a dress or dressy coat ; the design, as a whole, would be beau
tiful in the front of a dress and as a finish to its decorative panels;
the separate blossoms could be stanmped in the corner of any coat
point or tab and new dress coats have all sorts of angles that re
quire decoration while they serve as well to adorn cuffs, collars,
and sleeves.
The value of a good design lies in the possibilities which it pre
sents for many uses. The one illustrated not only serves to adorn
any part of a dress or wrap where a large pattern is required, but
its small motives serve to fill in any, corners that need beautifying
with the needle. They also make pretty ornaments for neckties.
Empire sash ends, and for household articles, such as scarfs, run
ners, table covers, hangings, bedspread decorations and pillow sham
and sofa cushion centers,, to say nothing of wrist bags, opera bags
and fancy work bags which have to be ornamented with needle
work. Those waists which particularly call for embroidery are shirt
waists or, to be more accurate, blouses, made of fine wash materials ;
of lace, net, silk, satin and variations of fine dress goods. These
blouses are often made in Empire style for very dressy gowns and
extend only to the top of the long Empire skirt Very often the
Empire waist consists of a fitted top, or yoke, with a broadband of
embroidery which hangs loose to the top of the Empire skirt This
band must be embroidered 6r it isn't considered very smart The
same motives which adorn it have to be repeated upon the sleeves
and neckpieces of the garment, which has no special seams or lines
but the straight, short round ones of bodice and sleeves.
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