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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Aug. 30, 1908)
4 THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL. PORTLAND, SUNDAY MORNING. AUGUST 30, 1903 37, saw ' t " - 5 5 C 1 Ui ...I t I A " f V-"iii J E The Unique "Corner" that Brazil Engineered to Steady the Market M 0 YOU remember , in those days M M . when it was the accolade of adoles- ttntc. 7 7lt niuuu ny iitui yuu were allowed to have a cup of real cof fee at dinner, how you traveled a couple of miles on that wearisome weekly errand to the distant tea and coffee store where they still sold "genuine government Java"? Mother usually, father oftentimes, un earthed the place where that precious cache of genuine government Java lay hidden. Once it was tasted, "the Laguayras and Mar- k acaibos, that had so palled on the family's delicately' attuned taste, were hastily for saken, whatever the moderate prices at which they obligingly met the family purse. What if real old government Java did cost 48 cents per pound; we could always better afford to skimj) on something else. Your doled cup jpf coffee per diem seemed but poor recompense fdf the morn ing you had to sacrifice out of Saturday's holiday for the errand. But suppose, now, you could get real, old government Java, with the honest age on it wouldn't you gladly give that half day for the sublime fragrance it exhales? Well, this is no punishment of Tanta lus. "Old government Java" bids fair to come again via Brazil instead of Java, it is true; but with the age upon it as of yore. Brazil, having cornered the world's market, having kidnapped the coffee trade in its entirety, having put an end to coffee gambling as summary as New York's ban oh race-track gambling, is saving up S,ooor OOO bags. It lias been saving them for a year, and it is carrying a debt of $45,000, OOO in order to keep on saving them. And every day the rich, delicious fla vor of the contents of those bags improves. TWO-THIRDS of tln world's pfffee supply is ordinarily produced by Brazil. The coffee year is all the year. IJcpinuin.i; officially July 1, it ends officially on June 30. The crop of lf'iVi-T whs borne on Mich mnr velously rood winds thnt they blew everybody bad fortune. The usual crop., of from 1,000,000 to 31.000,000 baps, was nearly flout.!.,: Other countries had been doing tlit ir fhar of the world's production, in previous years, as Fteadily as had Brazil. The world had enough coffee. Now, however, with Brazil garnering a crop f 20.000,000 bags, there is ,-ueh a repletion that, if it were dumped upon the market, the prices would fall to almost ruinous levels. Sjt is far frojmleing a simple trade issue with Brazil. No country, anywhere, has its pros perity so vitally hound up in the profits of a single crop. The very Government faced pov erty, if the world's coff' e prices should be cut in half. Brazil wag in the i'-itien of a man in-Teftt-d with, a moii. jx'v who confronted bank ruptcy nr coram h ti d d v a-h. as he chose to de cide. The history of ;, ,-ale coffee prices bowed a range from r.'j o-ms to 21 cents per pound, with a lot c f 'peculators enjoying fluc tuations varying from 3 of a cent to 5 cents on tLe pound, a a year's price were high or low. . Brazil did not hesitate W,g. The state of Sao Paulo, bai kkd by the frdrl government of BrsiiL beraiiK the financial ag : t assuming the rponililit for the in.! unusual "corner"' knoa in ar.y crop. That at because Sao Paulo waa the leading coffee -growing ttite in the rry-uHic. Legislation n enctcU tkh empowered tl e rove rr. sent ta borrow money to buy from tii i Utter the iurplut of tLeir ercj. Tbe ft m m "N TT" f i ' LTT'1' ".-- - - ft" st mm niraiiniiitwrpMi r Ij.ii I urn niwiiS' MP" w AH Mitt ii xii 4 Lf4 1 M Within a qifarter of a century, the capital city has expanded from a place of JJO.OOO persons to a commercial and educational center whose inhabitants number a quarter of a million. It, is the "college town" of Brazil, and it ha3 ncarlyi 800 educational institutions. Out among the plantations there are "fa-! zendas," such as the Dumont tract, owned by an English syndicate, containing over 100,000 acres,' with 6,000,000 cffee trees under cultivation. The laborers may be Indians or Italian immigrants, with never enough of them to supply the planta tions' steadily increasing needs. But the resi-, deuces of the proprietors of planters like Bnrao Ceraldo do Eezende, with their half mil-, lion trees adorning verdant hillsides are mag-, nificejit "casas," with gardens showing wonder ful collections of orchids and hundreds of varie ties of roses.. They arc the palaces of the coffee kings, surpassing many of the palaces of the new, asw;ell as the old, world in the florid luxury of their appointments. I We drink, Java now, and Mocha, and fondly imagine they come from Arabia and the island of Java.' They come from Brazil. The best qualities and grades of that splen--did Sao Paulo coffee, carefully selected, are shipped to Europe, thence to Egypt, thence to Arabia. They start as a f ne grade of "Santos," because the port of Santos, in Brazil, was their point of departure. They end as real Arabian Mocha, returning to this western hemisphere duly packed, as was the original Mocha of Araby the Blest, and costing 45 cents per pound, instead of the 5 cents they cost at the port of Santos. WORLD-FAMOUS FLAVORS Si . mmmm jot77fj of cffee lcejr house of Eothschild loanoi! $15,VMT.fK)0, secured by the export duties on coffee, (ireat mercantile houses, concerned with the coffee trade, loaned various sums, secured by the ooffoo itself. In all, $4.", OOn.OOO was obtained on loan fur the cre ation of the new monopoly. With that money, the Brazilian government bought up nearly S.IMHI.OOO .bag of coffee, now worth from $10 to 111 per bag. It has been stored in warehouses in Santos, liio Janeiro, New York, Havre. Hamburg, and several other centers of trade, for f-ale at the prices fixed by the open market, now ruling steady at 6 cents per pound. Whenever the market rates go lower the Brazilian government simply holds on to its huge reserve; when it goes higher, it readily sells, in order to get ca-h to lighten the burden of debt it carries. The results of the plcn have been a bene ficial as they are diverse. This fall, with all other surplus supplies cleared out of the market, speculation in coffee has been absolutely killrd. Terhaps no other crop is. orVan be, o staple in ita price for years to come. The planters not only received normal prieea for their bumper crop, but they reoeired profit able rate for all of St. Th world a pro tected, fo a long period, against not only those crop tbortafei which are' as likely to occur as is a crop surplusage, but against iu own stead ily growing needs. And tLe Brazilian govern ment not only reaped its- full income from the year's crop, but it stands toearn Lome millions of profit out of the speculation into which neces sity precipitated it. These millions, and their juggling, do look imposing. But, to any c noisseur of coffee to those who.deligbt in it as did a Napoleon, a Voltaire, or the Talleyrand who uttered the apostrophe which has become a classic in hyper bole the important thing Is that so many mil lion bags are likely to live on unused, developing their exquisite aroma until tLe magic eight years shall have elapsed that make coffee truly fit for a king or a Talleyrand. If one were to journey into Sao Paulo he would find himself in a state eompriing 75,5)0 oquare miles, where 50,000 of thov miles are given over to coffee exclusively. All the year around there hangs over it a perfume that can be likened only to the perfume of the cherry blossom, just as the fruit of the coffee tree re sembles the cherry most nearly in its peculiar sweetness. The bean we know is one-half of the pit. of the fruit, two beans being commonly united by a tough, parchment -like skij, broken and whiffed awayby machinery in the course of preparation for the market. The world has found their flavor as delicate,' their aroiha as inspiring, as the qualities which; were enjoyed by the older generation, when it drank the original Mocha and Java. But, until the bumper crop of 1906-7 impelled the govern ment of Brazil into the byways of finance, the; world carried no reserve which could acquire the age so indispensable for the true flavor rel-j ished by the connoisseur. Indeed, it is in Brazil; alone that the traditions of coffee are respected; and observed, and there only by the great landed' proprietors whose resources enable them to agej their coffee as the very rich of Europe age their, wines. ! To them, then, has fallen the lost heritage, of the world the bliss of a cup of good coffee such coffee as you grudged your half Saturday for when you had to travel those distant blocks to the store for the real, old government Java.' Always in a perfectly dry atmosphere, kept' for a period of eight years, the home coffee of Ihe Brazilian planter compares with the Arabian Mocha of the world's commerce as wine of tho comet year compared with the wines vaunted by( amateurs of vintages that followed. "o who has the rare fortune to be the guest at a famous fazenda, finds himself in a settle-, ment which is, in effect, a town. The hundreds of work people have tbeir homes separate for individual families, while lord over all is the proprietor and host. He dispenses an almost feudal hospitality to his visitors, and their en joyment of the viands set forth is taken in the midst of a luxury of nature and art such as the wildest extravagance of Indian potentates could not overpass. There, to the true coffee lover, is the only fit setting for the cup that cheers. Tho host will offer only coffee that has had its due allot ment of years, according to his particular bias of i opinion. the ultra nice in taste condescending to nothing younger thar the eight years esteemed as giving the full flavor. He has heard, perhaps, of the northern prac tice of buying coffee already roasted and ground and then kept for a week or two. lie is not' wroth oyer the heresy; he is merely pitiful. Eoj you, his guest, the beans -re roasted and! ground at the time the nob.c drink is to be of- , fered. They are reduced tj a fine powder, and never, never boiled. Compressed in a woollen bag. the powder is subjected to a pouring of hot water, which slowly peTcelates, drawing from the powder the finest, most delicate flavors thai have been released by the previous roasting. That is coffee to be drunk reverently, thankfully, as one takes a boon made to renew the appetites of youth snd to renew the rosy radianc of Its dreams. Today, by the grace1 of the good wind that blew no one good, and by dint "of that enter prise of Brazil's which has made it food at last to eTery one, the minimum of two years, at which the expert will consent tj use even the best qualities of coffees, is being rspidly rounded out by-those 8,000,000 lags yet in the ware house. .;