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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Aug. 30, 1908)
CPrlbt, tool, by AmcrUan Kiamlwr- Oreat Urltala Bigots fteaatic- 7tose, of tl;e ft t i a I h a a a kiiorojtfciVtViVi' Styles like Summer (jirls CoT)e Radical QjayQes i)ye. Suits Cife tfye iJpiforT of tr;e prefer; Soldiery. n. Stiujier thatV xoxoitijcixo:!:': 1 m"o 1 1 1 1 m 1 1 11 . . -X-X- -X- - 1 1 1 1 1 1 i i 11 1 i 11 1 !ir rlrls nrp riwlnt to Imn: models, una Jnt oit of the boxes that course moans to the City crossed the seas from Parts. Please don't of New York. "Some In tors, im think I ma; be fibbing ; and, anyway, aren't In tags" or rather their lluen la badly (bey sweet T But, nevertheless, the Sun rumpled. Tteir white teeth gleam and Im.r gIr;s are co,,,!, t0 tnvn. Betsy T iiiiiiii lit a 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 i A3 f . - - sri imuimiiii ij-iViWiViwr.-i'i-ri' i'iViViVi 4 ifv. T3r .'loxo.'yoroi'X' iiiittiiiiiitt 11 ii"i"i"i ii"i"i"i " . I r A. f 1 1 1 1 111 i.ii iiit I n 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 SAjt x vW' 1 ii 1.1 ;i;i;riVi;i;.;i;t;i;i:iX'y?N"A "s'XX'"vX!10 riYiViVn it'i'i't i'mVi'i yV- 7 x - -"Jj Oe V SL 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 O i "ii""i"i"it"i"i"ii"tiii"ii"i vvjt v r C-yPl ?W W WA.1'" O-1"'"-" iiiitiOiitiiiiii Wsjh)L y s tVlfcll M - ' 1 1 1 ii mmSi iii"ii"iiii"ii"i"iii"A r" A i Vifc1 Vl.'.v.'.'.'.vjr Wsi V4:W,yA,.,MVAyAi mX - V T IV 1 i-i,! I I I I I I I I t A TTx vpiWi j I 1 it ii if 11 .iil mw.C,, 1 " " J 1 ' ' 1 1 ' -A 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 l"ll,',.,w,.,,.,r,",",i,-'f 1 1 Vi "a yXy"' I I JJ Brownfnce, who will be married In Ootolier, waa really here lint week. She was a flower girl when Chollle and I were mnr-rled--so. naturally, we are much Interested In her uureliaui. AH the girls are keen their akin la brown. Some there ar In all and rajah. NeTer a wrlukle and never a croaae. Hut thes'' are the p.ile tared fall ore. Not eren their nosea arc sunburned but beware of the frown. Hitter wrinkles ,;, your linen than . boxpl.lt between your r,gbt yea. J iixt look and see! It'a only m!J Angust. but the Stinnrer irlrls nre roming to town from Newport. Bontlinnipton. and maybe- , Bar Harbor. Look for the girl wh , wrinkles In her linen, but smiles on her fare, for ahe' the Summer girl who will be the Anturon bride. Father Is delighted. Until Ills smile and hl purse eipaud. and Betsy Brownface, you may ba ure, itarta In directly to spend. Koiv listen. When August la sixteen d.iyn old then the time hn come to divide the Summer girls Into two clnases. In one class belongs the girl whose finery Is still fresh. She was one of the mural blossoms (common name "wall flowers") of the Summer. Even her dancing f rooks need no cleaning round the hem. No "Ix hengrin" march for her this Full! Eren her tennis suits nre still Immaculate. In none of the Snmmer's games has she been stren uous ("perspiration" would be vulgar) ; but 11 these games are those that go to make up the big game of lore, for witness the Ctrl who hns played them all gully. Cupid t, j ,.;4f:?.r4'-v far i mmmwm SsO-t.' B-4-VMk,M centre. f(ad r?e,uoIiitio9 ip pans. fobe5pierre dollars apd appop-Ball Dopey-dray a JNfu; 5oIor. 5l?ell5 for Buttons. ti :.d;: Hi 1 A A Directoire Reception Suit of Bright Blue Broadcloth. Reven of Net Gor- geoudy Embroidered With Orchids Laid over Revert of Cloth. Facing of Silk Where Skirt I. Turned Back Showing Filled-in Slit. B A Black Walking Suit With. Circular Skirt. Waistcoat, Revers and Robespierre Collar of Black and White Striped Silk. C A Severely Plain Suit Shoeing New Eccentricity in Turning Bark the Tails of the Coat. D A Dark Blue Suit With Large Revert of Pale Blue Satin Showing Embroidered Cockatoot. The Skirt Has Narrow Plaits at the Side and a Long Line of But tons. It U of Comfortahle Walking Length. The Directoire Red ingote Is Slashed at the Sides, Where It Fc!ls in Deep Points. Chin up. ehoulders back; no sword or mus ket, but n cane If she likes. 9'.ie looks then not like a soldier, but like an tncroy able, ole of the famous fops of France In the directoire period. Dctsy bough: a cane oq Fifth avenue. It has a bis sapphire set in the handle. I icnow one Irl who said elie'il use her jewelled billiard cue with her directoire suit. On the suit of dark blue cloth (see pic ture D the revers are of pnle blue Katln, and on ench Is embnMered a plump cocka too. On ot!ier suits, any apple green wl,h nlle-green revers, the points of which reach beyond the shoulders, there are also tropical birds and tropical flowers embroidered with s!!k. The talis of the coat are tnrned back with pnle green revers of the same color and shape, and birds are embroidered ou ench. It Is a trick this rear In Paris to put a woman Into a stilt that looks like sn en velope. (See the suit In Illustration C. i Ths corners not only turn back, but are broug'at together and buttoned. All sorts of novelties are part of or the accompaniment of the new Fall suits. The majority of the Summer girls simply know they're pretty. But Betsy Brownface, she knows why ench feature Is correct. r!ftsy Is bright. She remembers all her history. The period of the Plreetolre (Chollle tried so hard to explain it all to me. I hope I have It rlshtl followed the death of Louis XVI. and that of Mnrle Antelnettft. who offered the public cream puffs or something of that sort. They were terribly Insulted. Cream-puff nre not so bad, say I, though brivikfat food would have been real mean. Paris, during nr.fl following the revolution, was miStnry mad. and went to excess In everything. A silt in those days was a silt. Just ask vonr mother cr your husband, or read abont the silt In the great history of rosfnme hy Raclnet. If I should try to explain to you. Mr. Editor would cut It out. The buttons on the suits were Ilka the buttons on n sol dier's uniform. The collar cnllod Robes pierre, In compliment to the great revolu tionist, you mry see as now revived on fig nre B. This eolWirls faced with black and white silk of the reveres ana rne wnisn om. some of the bonnets worn In those dart were suppo" to represent cannon Is. . Tn(v were round and closely fitting, them, the would havei created no sncb stir (To day In the modern adaptation, they But she didn't care. She went to Bar Har f.t a portion of a melon rind). Finally bor and at the home of her stepfather. Dr. m im 11 mi 5v 0 c.1 m Boppets. lorrifyir; fiJmor as to Direetoire Bas apd hare one. Of course, you aren't brrt ta style, as well as In the bonnet, I mean. The Directoire bonnets are worn with silk frocks of the Directoire model. But some of the girls at Newport are so afraid of the sheath, that, with their short walsted gowns (far too full m the skirt) and queer bonnets, they . look Itke droll little figures from Kate Oreenaway pic tures. Nothing of the mad French Direc toire period Is suggested. Miss Helen Morgan, a nleco of Herbert Parsons (ha married Elsie Clews, who is now working fevtrlshly on another anti-roarrlage book) wore the first bonnet of this sort that t ever saw. When she tripped off the tral at Tuxedo one day, I saw that her bon net was covered with silk (shirred on a stiff frame) exactly like the silk of her frock. The strings were tied in a bis; bow at the left under her chin. The only floral decoration was one large red ros laid on the stiff frame toward the left. For little bonnets of this sort, the mil liners are studying the pictures In costume histories. Not one of these little bonnets, however, has a flare equal to that of th knnnnl hn t.' 1 . ( 1 1 ... I I. i, i, L ui luo .launiitiu niulf IQUIUIUV whose bonnet ntver changes. But if vou promise not to say I toU. I'll tell you something awful I just heard. It's about those new soft pnrses In eera and brown. They aay they are made from human skins. They are Jtut about as thick and as soft as a kid glove tanned and "cured," of conrse. A doctor know has a wallet made of It. It's all due to the reversion to the read ways of Paris. When France was gTapplIng with, and bid grappled, royalty, and still felt the Insult of the cream-puffs, or whatever sort of rake It was. men used to go te dances wearing the skins of their enemies- the people who had been guillo tined. Chollle says It's no worse thao any other sort of skin, but my! (recalling; oor mention of the donkeys) I'd rather eat a donkey sandwich than to carry a Direc toire hag of this sort. Just to make a cheerful ending. I'd ilk to tell you about the new Napoleonla evening cloaks, but they make a story ta themselves. You throw one end of th cloak over your chest and shoulders. Just as Roman Senators handled their draperies. buying. Tbo failures (the mural blossoms) the r,'1tn n braid Is on a soldier's this suit are gorgeous, have jj, ,. . hn. ,VPt and uniform, ns one -m It In old Fr-nc'j pic- of the soft blue cloth f f t a desperate effort In the laat sons Girls of this sort always -i n. i-h upon clothes. 'Hiey are i' 1 nr. to the po:nt where they Kir :!!! o .i sheath with an unfilled silt, 'l?. the Summer girl will ask, 'he new colors'" "Catawaba. ((implant and donkey gray." Is 1 -r. As t:'ial. tbe majority of the rs lave eMMe names. Thev al ' In ttM French chefs fbr the rhr's- i r nwt Sn-nmer girl, how she :,d fl'mplet wlien she toes unnie of Fsl! wilts from farktl II the - Ilk l.et are mi liary In charsc .... tl, suit of a sofr. but !r;gtit. !r vl-ioth ifgv.rr A the Hfi'-h has a ppi.!-e : the Many of the but :.! rai tnt "n tnres. Where the klrt f.'M faring Is of a-tr.tire vl'k. '1 t u give a scant bit of f':lnes to 'iie -lir' just below tbe walt-t. Tt.v '.'Eg tnll. of tbe coat have narrtw siantlrtij trr.;s n;,i . :ttor,s ls-t applied In a soidlorly way. Ilie right sleeves agun have lurtons. straps mil a narrow lare frill from the elbow lown. and daintily circling the wrist. The mc-i on How to Have a Flat tering Picture Taken. MOST every girl has a drawer full of unsatisfactory photographs of her self pictures she Is ashamed to give to any one she cares for. Some "do not 1 . 't like her," she says; others make her seem old or Immature or faded, and the majority are tabooed because of the drtj or hat she wore. In a general way the blame Is vaguely placed on the rhotocraphcr. win Is really . . .nAf AM W ITH liri'VO, u ,w ...... ... ts for history. The consulate fol- Flckllanof, a Oreek poet of nobis brow, i fhB Directoire. And then arose Nn- Of course, Eva will wear her draperies for- oTeon Some of the new coats eren show ever. . They are no response to a fashion tbeapoleorfV Influence (on evening cloaks law. !vf . Lrkod) tnough none of the house Strange It Is. too, that we turned to the nlh. Krk. Z now empire In style. Grecian, revived the Directoire period. Just or evening of whpn muttttinK nltlcantly a. L.nnng to revlve the classic It grappled with capital. France, when It 'P""rttWof t Crec,an costume,. One revived Grecian gowns, when It was mill severity of the "c,a" w not tary mad, and when women were begin- Those below are fMtnre however we ' no BiJ t0 wear g0,d,erly suits and cannon- and ,h,e on top rnt. The Directoire ndles wore n g rapPng with royalty. the rtianglng a bit loosely! are of pet on w.ilri dockings (your mower or wm ony n,1ltter,ng3. Vou plaits mammoth orchids In shatlfs of pink ana -m explain anour mi. - r0i, i oM i,out the cream puffs, not resnonslble at all All trm rsmnr. m mahogany are embroidered. Toe skirt nbout the slit). I ney nnu neither cake nor confectionery could do ls to mKke the best of vou as you clasps the hips, ard this Is one of the snoe. They wore sandals on ' bfi mor(, B, me of tbt sops band- aptear "to him. How you appear la your most severe of the d!rect.,lre wal'.in? suits. Poor Eva Palmer, the sister of eJ ollt t(,,laJ. own .,, or crodlt. Ttle fowlnir ,. You cannot see the tails of the -oit when Palmer, wore, sandals wnen , No a tbfj nMi t0 rpturn to cl0thM t!ona w, grfkBty , gettIng wlshed fof you directly face the wearer Hut Retsy In flowing Greek " . ' are , Bevor ilne as the one (figure A) results from phorogra phs- Urownface looks fine b. It. Sl.e '.s llm If she had arrived tnis sens..... Grecian draperies. klmUy a(1 othpr, nre reaUy easier nr?frn, rPaBnni gr fo ,he ptintngrBJ)hfT thnn this In nt, curving -raceiuiiy m f TOU are out of health or In low spirits, gradually toward the sides, and with two If -ru do. the ta,-tless camera will surely buttons In back to accentuate the short- record it. In spite of the photographers' rMuoo the amount of butcher s n eat and good plan to hare the eyes tested, u nea- walsted effect, instead or tbe sin oe.n ecrts m retouching. If you are tired It is her; 'beating foods" aches persist In spite of attention to me at the side. It Is orten toward me rrout. .eu.r to tay aay. - - v.-re The second gr.-at ca ise of headaches at above hints. Any one with weak sight ,ud braid makes two long lines from the When tired, unhappy or !H the m.r' , headaches, and are easily upset and they this time ts rit!r-e V , -, nor rest and should wear dsrk glasses If the sun U belt to the hem. nt tne smri. 1 toon and blood vessels of the face which glre too blame the weather Tc,.y say th-y nlway sleep as much a 'n Winter W( sit up very strong, and should never sit facing a Chollle s.ong the day Betsy Brownface i vpn-ssl,, a n. oul of lholr Dorn)al F sufl.-r from -Summer heads'-es." bet they iare and get up earlier In rhe morrltg. We strong glare of sunlight asked me to go with ner io cnoose smi. iUnn and the pii-t-urf t certain not to do and trim, and slr.isbt colonel. Sensible Ways to Avoid Summer Headaches. THERE sre women who ctplil thev sre Dover well In hot we; they feel out of ,)ri, have that do not see-n to reallre that It in nt Sum- do Tiv- much mer but their own stupidity that is at the t!-ii, beraii.se bolt.m of It all. even x : re r r v e morning. We strong glare of sunlight asseti me to go win: u" . "" - muon am tee pu-uirf ts .tre on a raca- Heajv clothing lastlv. Is the explanation ( Sol.le was terribly dlsappomtea. ue naa you Jtistlcsv j ,ir shout t'-ree of many peoples til health In hot weather, ni eye open ir m. sin. ..ue ui """a '"" p.MMe. It Is money well spent P!.cJ hrr (he very day she citne. when he t.'tirg nn the hotel register u b-ct-I i r'. it mil. prsonae f.-r tLe eeaaos'ti eeD;e.T s , when th gve L m a wise Ittle w u it giKt a toldo arrow to salt fcer Strr-rtr r'r's always befdn to talk a!nct ' " Fa., ;',' la Aug.tt. T: : a long established r. Ibis yr tteT are all leitetL ' i- ;m ia sty.. so taej rd. re gr: T.t t een tie tew ;i; ' p fver la d aolng std In rr'cte4 cr-p'b,,. Tey are tter Bow t ere la lb clotk. I inaCy before the in f ftetBlr tke inmmtktn an4 UUr bar tbeU rdere tit tee fall cvttt. ttlM. eoattuHwis e6a t Fail suits are very valuable. Some a e set with semi previous stones Tie Importers fulrly tore out their hslr nhen they srl that these b;itt-ns l.si to e, me in under the bend of Jewelry. When m-.tver and the girls con,e home f-om Tarls their new suits In tbe trunks tre, howerer. ii, for less. Buttons, buttons w hi tn tlie. buttor.s ?" Is the liteet gsme st the rnstomi jouse. Mother Las th liattons. but who There sre four main cs'ie. of 11!ncs in hot weather. The first Is diet. F.ol. sp.il! more easily In Summer, and people ar( Tery liable to mild attacks of food ptlsoulng from est. eg n.est or fish ttst It not qu.te fresh. Sick tetlseh, rr.ay result from even one mouthful ef tetnted meat or fish, and over ripe trf under rip fmtt is the ranee of a Is tbt rod rt; if-rjw,. time at rear Housewives One of tbe Worth times what we should Into the twenty-four Heavy coat, skirts, and unnecessary under- suits seen on a model did show the anfliled to drive to the photographer's. Lours. clothing should be discarded, especially by but she had a s.lk pettlcost that A Just the-mode-of the-momeat style of S we heoome fajged and tired and head- tbe women who hare to work In town due- I'"'kpd 1:ke nllln- 1 "-benever th roetume, .,r coiffure, will -dcte" tbe pho s hv. and we bt-r,e the Summer We pi ln. mdummer. Heavy dothlng Increases . ,h're ' rlo,h fnrned back Waph. nd soon nk. It looi out of tennis In h a? -tg ';r.li:c. w-h the Ides ,ne r1,i of Bummer colds, because we get In hla?'-' h.l t t r sh" ; 1 1 P ssibie I If r ,tjre ml n who dares sty wuerer Cie ci i Housewives sre strangely Ignorant. lei buttons are reslly muste! tr-ella. I strangely Indifferent to the rink of ?--.d saw them on new suit of etgpltDt color. cttitailntlon In hot westber It is fs s Ho' please ex"je roe; we rrtis: Icrry hack feormf tn use meat or e.sh. or food r.f r the bloe suit But buttons tre awfully any kind that la at all suspicions f-r r,at.r.g W bad to lt.p and dlscwss Everrtwlv sVmld est ! a est In Jum tbem a bit Ttsft the only enjoyioie way ,er iod chew-p Inttesd grd frslt, salads, to talk about tbe styiew- Sesjoeare, I egi-s. asi.k and rhevae fiocb foo-lt as pork, tell Cbolly. ! a Boiaanoa Bottons are betvy poddlnr sad fat meat of any kind relly grest taportaBce. like tbe are liable to caae beslsct., if uken Id Buncteatlo anarkt ta a pnei. " Cbolf aay tioactlty at Lkia easca. Wky? Be- catwa t 't more dltTW-ult tat tie aysteta ' t as n.uch everelse as over betted and subsequently chilled. have to Pny. The 0rit. ncbt woollen clothing Is wom mane! it n that so many r-mi bare tDe kln- tbe nutrr garments cannot be too r.er.d.1. :. s-mmer. but that so many , tMtufe ,,, wor. esesr the att.kof .anaaruke Uar oftea To gammr bdacbes. tr, three simple meals a day. moderate exercise, et Ibst h'sdsrhe is the flirert con sequence peclal'.y walking la the fresh air. Try the Of D flcient to till it. But Chollle wat so dl- fantilon. Ro appointed. I was surprweo wnep he so Be careful sbout wearln- nex t qulrkl7 """ t0 -,tb - but. 1 " ' sin,,,: certain nt to fall In graceful soon Knew wny. i ban ,o give n.m a pose r,,rj. and the result It that .tiff foolish, with my parasol. Chollie s surprise or dls- p.ed lo.,k that photograph, ao ofien hav7 appoltlt-iient Is always of the volnble sort If a drets is becnmJut; on accoont of a' .1.- IJUJIU..,. IK i".f r.ur... Mr, or p!:lk b,n) T . A t ..I. A ww hwiiu jNarini. not eXpSHtt it l caose a sun mei nai a waistcoat or ntfr- otLer color, ia to beip your looks lo the n r .: T ,k ' UP . ""P " JOi r' 1Ul" ' d . T ' " In reality, though, no k. black. T'l,. T" 'd per; of the .pin. from th sunt ryt A ,r.d take a midday rrtt If you .affer froai ... ,' . hUrk- Ustt- T'Uom uod plok appear r-s-s -Irrrred hsf and a parasol are een ,,, t,.dc5 Do not tsks drugs upon . ... u ' ., . Do ,ot tsks drug, upon w.(h off a?:"":.. ... loosely at each side fmm the collas. and each Is clasped toward the end with s five, a ghastly effect, and oca far fra'ia '''"'"'"I unis-a. ibv utter pretty. a learner totu or a l.o n v.. yuuug .nl Ht. C'.'I-.em. If tb. Joan u a a v . - - .... t ... -. . -"ii. pace era O. ft It bje ,Blt tba battotu - sai'J to get rid of e-treas nf tnn& when It ts ' ni,f ,r"m ! tary. Tkea, )oat sea ta al'.t o tb t esrot.nl aot rq aired for Burpos of b-vly beat a.d tsxataaaa awea i. . .Nsrrew el ret rlfcboa la atpUa4 U bay work S-a, ta bo.iday time eassecUliy, eye .traia frvat uw taceaalra l!bl. It la a ta a toe ctutaa ant at tea. parsso! ,re fwn- heat tesdache tit f r r.-je woman who bts tn mi cut la ar. n.APsiiAii .fMntinf . almnle par strg sir.sMr.e. however free from vsnlty gatlTe. which Is always advisable If errors diet are tne (robabie cause oi ma aic maMW tM , r)t,tJT Mked . wl,rlt ,o!t ""' won ,e.i me rear snonia make headache. a pe.lit of Ijitf d-jwn In a dark rcoa for A bot thirty er ferry minutes Id the ailddie of at tbe aape af tha Bs?ek. r an application chaira like the cord aKo used to e i,-Drny speaktBa. tbe bead ana ahon- th. dsv And the womaa wbe get. alae of eaa e evlofae ta tbe temples aod crosra tbe fosir side- of safo costlofla. Tkls . .'VT a' rirt'Aa1"1"" "" boors seep Hummer and Winter will be of. tha bead.. are ataefol reatediee Always red rord often edres deep ruffi Fvery- A veil' lmfrta a patrfcy s rr t rtnes, ta be k't tti-r tod better looking for H. try ta lad oat tbe raoaw. Do not forget body woaid bare aald we bad It left osrer. ,h 'ce aad ft should e n-weieSered -v., At Hummer beadacbe la soajetiBB daa ta jEat ft la aot beat that la tbe real caas Tkat Terr day Betsy wtjgbt a Dlrae- v'" oef what as tb sni'-er i- better, bot tbe trimming was almost ex- wooderfoliy softeo tag effect oa "taJ ,tt Biartard footbath, a aanertard leaf ,rt;y ,;k, q,, eavy cording on tar drawing re- , totra bonnet. lea trti't la It as leas yaa wear taa nil with yaor romp lei koa Utal ye. ta