The Oregon daily journal., August 16, 1908, Page 46, Image 46

. -j - - w- ' ' -
Copyright," tOOo'by Aerlcn-Eihif- Greet Britain HI RaeeTred.
Daipty ai?d Yt Fftally .
Darii? (-louse (Joups.
!aee Jfiteaps ffou; put
to Use at t (Styealre.
5ort Soe(S Uorp
Uitl? Boudoir (Jour;$.
lira
lillR
UN DEE the heading of "How to Be
Happy Thongb Married" much ad
Tlca baa bloomed. First of all, good
cooking la recommended. One would con
clude that tbtra Is re-ally only one way to
man's heart after marriage, and that Tla
his t '-late and digestive organs. But there
Is another way through bis eye. Coquetry
Is far mora successful than cookery end
bow much easier It la 1 Just begin gently
and flirt discreetly with, your husband. la
The Perfect Way to Serve a Perfect Little Dinner.
A CAPTIOUS critic mlgut aver that
the last word bad tfeen said on the
subject of dining. But society must
, dine, and dinners een small ones-bold
pride of place as the best snd most ex-
clustve of sll entertainments. Jnst now
a dinner must be veil given to be en
1 dnred. Social life meins hard work
any time. Tha opera e!Uma much
of o-e's time ircong other things la
Winter, snd In Summer otl.er things at
tract our aitentlon new beauties, new
BillHoDn.res. even new royalties.
A clever writer declared that "duty" was
ana of the moet misused words In the
EagUtb language. But all the same It has
ceased to te the fesrsox.e fetlb that fright
aned os Into good behavior some twenty
years, ago. Anjhow, that dull business,
the "duty dinner," tsken s bsck sest.
Wa no longer sk two doien bores on tba
'chop for chop' principle, snd for no
other reason under tb ins. Tba little
tf'iBEer, however, has come to stay, snd la
svw oce rf tha most ctrrlshed ln'tltotloD.
Put a little clicer mav be a big fiasco.
Cta may ask six people, two of whom ara
ot ob spesklng 'tt.. b::a a third Is la
Wre. a fotrth las s grlevso-e. s flftb la 03
a dl -B.t, aad a slith la a sufrsg etta j
well, at taat rat tha llttie diauar ni ght
devaiop lata a alghtmara.
rba Dertact dlnaer of to-day la ron
paood of froas all to algat propta, nn
. a.4 wosaso, vaa ara aysaaathotkt sod
YXsrsslag a eotrtrtOea, or sot. Am Meal
aal la osakar of ssirtk. d Hr of ta
ad a cptcraasa. a cirra Utker. sad
-- taetfa lswaac. li Ui laU of talk
aovid a kart tsastec toeot la Itraly
taokleait la a arord, oa saaat Vsv gaaarai
namNUot. a k dlasor la apt to ra
aoira itaoK Uu 1 oarloa a wtoa-avtotoa.
Ti - or4 r-aa Is 1st 1 si a a ta ts'k
I' to fa lad ka takes Is la dkaaac artth
. ' a tm ararda at tatarrak to kk otaor
aa4aaiak Aa4 tal attiisa tad at
any event It's more fun than either order
ing or cooking dinner.
Just ee If you can't tie him to the rib
bons of your teagown. Just his mother
once bad blm tied to her apron string.
Keep him In loving leaah. Try the coquet
ries of home. Instead of only hasting the
chicken or the ribs of beef to a turn, try
some skilful basting and sawing for your
self. Garnish tbs chops, but also garnish
your houso gown.
The French name for house gowns, tea
gowns and dainty robes for the houdolr or
bedroom mearvn. If translated, "the coquet
ries of home." The wife who simply orders
the dinner mar hare a house gown of real
Clnny, blond or durhesse laco combined,
but the wife who must cook as well as
arder the dinner can he Just as sweet lu
dotted swlss, dimity or mull.
Just try tbs way to his heart Tla Ms
ayes as well as his palate, ami perhaps
some of the sentiment of your sweetheart
flaya will be revived surprisingly.
Eugene Field wrote a gay little poem
bout the teagown "that floats away where
It properly should, and clings whore It
aught to cling," and, concluding his praise
of the honse frock, he says :
"It Isn't the gown that compels me.
Condone the venial thing;
It's the pretty face above thj lacs
And the gentle heart within."
And the teagown of to-day Is Just as
A A Dainty Bpudoir Gown of Thin
Silk W.th Wide Ruffle, of Lace Fall
from Shoulders to Hem.' The Night
cap Is of Fine Mechlin Lace, With
Satin Ribbon Choux and Long Endi.
B A Recamier Tea Gown With a
Mantle of White Silk Warn Qver a
Net Frock That Mas a Silk Founda
tion Apple-Green in Color.
C A Luxurious House Robe of Mous
seline de Sole Embroidered in Gold
and Draped Over Azalia-Colored
Silk.
D A Daring Tea Gown Made Like
the War Dress of a Pharaoh, and
With Symbolic Embroider)'.
Eugene Field described It. for It floats
away and yet It clings. All the Grecian
styles of drapery that characterize the
evening gown are even lovelier when
adapted to the hnusegown. Some of the
smartest of tl;e teagowns arc. Indeed, much
Ilka dinner gowns. Kvcn the costumes
worn In the boudoir in the morning among
womej of the social worid, suggest ball
room finery. They are ci:t nl!b a deep
V and are decollete. Uhey have neither
always makes for success. Much, of
conrsa, depends upon the hostess and
whether or not he b an adept In the
sclenca of selection. Two guests well
mated may have a good time, tint tit a
large dinner these happy pairs are not
the rule, but the exception. And to
obvlata thla defect a big banquet Is now
often broken np Into several sections.
When forty gnests are Invited ter.arate
tables sre arranged for small numbers; In
fact, the party la made to consist 01 six
or eight "little" dinners.
After all, thera Is nothlog better than
good dinner table talk and nothing mors
Irksome than Its absence. Timet have
changed since the days In London when
Sarah Lady Jersey refused to give the grt
Duke of Wellington a lift In her carriage
"because." as she said, "he put nothing
Into the pool of conversation." Hers were
the days of beaux snd belles and polite
letter writers. Ours Is the age of motors
snd seroplases, trusts and telephones, and
tit strenuous Ufa leaves os little time for
graceful accomplishments. But good talk
m by ao msjans a lost art In tba best
aodety.
Trne, acne folk say thst tba recognised
topics of today are af, stocks and
shsrea, politics iln small qusnf s, chlf
fors, bridge, motoring sad ballooning, and
tha big bats, with stray remarka oa acw
books, plays and pictures, aad match spicy
gossip on tha marrlxges. deaths, dahls and
dtTorcea of oor desrest friends and a
a.aaiataces. But this rule does ant abtaia
at all tables and It rrsy ho noted tart
evea oocfc trivial rhat raa aeasonrl
wit wtt tad elever eonverea.
A aoatosa a tba wossaa at tha wheel as
reginis tha s.rra of a email dlsne.
aad asodera cthlca ba'p ber aiaa of ca sa
ri ga. Aa extra saaa aa ooee tfeocgkt a
attstaka aad aa oatra sroaaaa aaoaat tka
deatk aoaicaea to diaaac. Bat ara bar
ckaa( aj that, Mora aaaaj Ua araaaaai
II 1
f i , fir i m.:-j$fMy
sleeves nor a pv.lmpe. on? draperies that
fl! over the shoulders. With a houdolr
robe of. s'iv. hand pointed gray chiffon
with pink roses on a black border and
with a long train, mndam. In her bedroom,
nestlej among the cushions of her couch,
or striking a Nazlmova pose against vel
vet draperies, is queenly. With a well
rounded tl.riat anj a nicely molded arm
she may practice a coquetry of a compell
ing sort. One stunning teagown worn
are now the n:le, and everi the sn perflumis
woman- If amusing- Is not so fatal as she
sppears.
Manners and cnstnms chance with the
t'rnes, and c n '.Vtlo dinners are done
with a d'rTerence. London Is the latest
raii;tal In Knrope, and dinner at 8.30 has
hfccjiue a rule and not an exception. New
York dines a little earlier. And a modern
hrti :s apt t.i Ignore the ui of pre-cedr,;-9.
She r 11 fei;d lu h. r g :ests In
l.H.:.a.a; I s'yle or by niear.s of slips of
pnp!r put Into a sort of iifsr bug; and
men ami a omen often it ava the tabla to
gether In the fai-bltiii that picai:s on tba
Contli,e:,t.
At a soiaji d:r.i.r the floral dec
oration sb"ii.1 le ke,.t w a,n ! flat, as
high, cpstaadli.g rvirne- ts sre a heavy
handicap to gene-.,! enversation. And
dining room chairs '..n-rTe study; the well
stuffed. stra'gl.t on k. 1 variety add much
to one's couif rt. ar.d .-hairs a 1th arms ara
a aafa check on te d.it.ger of an over
crowded dlnh g rovni hath mouiao guest
bould have a f rt stool.
Bridge Is tile game of the moment, at.d
Its pros and cons bare been d.scussed
with. mucl need fss sever ty. British
ers snd Americans s-e hot h na.!UiDS cf
giiabera, sod this ttiduit ! r adrt-n-tura
ts no deaht tLe ma;n rsnsr of rnucti
of their prosperity. The frequent ill ef
forts of tba practice are onden'atile and
deeply to be deplored, yet It Is a habit
that a ill aaver be uprooted and that shows
ItsIf la sassy wsys-ln rarlog. csrd
psylnj. oa the Stock Kicbage. and la
every sort of epeeulatlon.
Little dlnaena ara the ley of tha wit and
tba clever talkers but they are a aear ta
tbrmeelTea. and ta lecomi a good bostesa
aorda bvsins as muck, if aot mora thaa
aaeaey.
Aad'Cteer jwple srtth atewder porketbonka
raa da ear assart things. froridd the
have tact aad taJaaW
by a woman In the spectacular set at
Newport Is of lemon colored silk, with
a largo black butterfly of Jet stretching
across her back from shoulder to shoulder.
But begin, little ladies, yon who hive
depended nn cookery, trying to please him
with apple pie like mother's, and Jnst
wear dotted bwIss with bene M;io ribbons
a shade of hire to rratch your eyes.
You will surely reap the benefits of the
best sort of coquetry that coquetry,
which, like charity, should begin at home.
Take the same care yon exercised In tba
choice of your trousseau.
For the poor tired ladles of the smart
set there 1s such a clever Ileramler hoime
gown with a two-fold purpose. I bought
one In Paris the last time that Tholly
and I wpre over, and he trunks It's sim
ply great. "fit for an affinity." he sild,
but that's just one of his funny Jokes,
fhollr Is ao clever.
It Includes my gown, not the tore. I
meai a T.nntle of cream white oik. nnd
this Is worn over n gotvn of tvh'te net
"in nn.-s spots, th!-. 1". turn, havln-
sllk foundation of vivid 'sopl" grer.n
Kdglng the mantle th"-e are pink roci-
roses. on a narrow gold braid. The band in
the bsck 1s of dark green velvet, tnfo whl-h
the fulness Is rathervd. malting- the maitla
fall In graceful folds. The rn.tv.. n
deep border, st the end of the train are
of embr.ped p'ush. To match the rink
rococo rr,,. I ,iw,y, wear pink roses In
my hair. The va!e of tbe Recamier tw,
Is this: If your frierds etay late gn.ip.
1nf over afternoon tei (over the rp .hat
cheers, hut doesn't Intoxicate, too,,?,
psgne, ., I u-i, rhcl'r. makes conversation
of a more kindly sort), there 1 no rush
to dres for dinner. Tresto Hi,--, ,nB
K.siMi-. aca mere yon are. reslr to ,j ... )a
tse proper regalia, et bom. cr t'.,.n,
rther hoi.se. 'Ttii ,i:,
Is reedy." No fusing No lmpitien. !rrt.
tst-d hns:nd Th.f i, , ,,d to 0
In rr.irrl; j t, r,,, ,
W.tb some of RMml(. hoao!r
ro', without tv n.sotle. made .cant and
close fttln, like t-. ffr,w rn hr riep
ra 1 Toscn. s...nr f ,he Wft.D, u
mart Set e,r ,h, v.fct ttr
sew. 7bev ate feh cvl-.r and exactly
those mora t rt-.n. only sborter la tba
ao. f-r it f-es nltbout ssylag that with
feet s Img aa thoea 0 tba atronger mi
a wivnn's cioetries wo-ill te'ssi-t!y ba
cvrflred ta thiee of the rtliasry sort.
Three svii a-t arora wtee rrrllalcg oa
ona a court la tha bedroom, a ad oo
t!uTita ant s-trperlea toot jaat aa
Feeanier
House (joui? Uitl?
5 Old flqtljer Jubbard Idalizd. !
5a (Jour;
UK War
Dress of a
Pharaoh;
apd Uitl?
Symbolic;
1
Embroidery
jjo Be a Lily,
a iose or
alj (Home.
Madam Re- sifter ra thst famous
painting by Dsvll.
Aa4 tba tha atghtrsps, ta leare foot
far beads. Thea Ightrapa. of ear, ara
Cf the Uce. Bet the Haslet sort, bat. really,
ary're tatoiic-aUBg. Aad sack eeafertf
Tea lake oat yoar rat. ra Uka year
traeaforaaaUoa. yaf otopaffs, ra switch,
aad lata thai bores a drawers tbey -
With a Bihtca 0 lac yea aaa took trxa
i '!
. mm
laptle
V. J h 1 i n.i 1 1 ' mm 1 1 1
flower a Illy, a rose or a Tlolpf. Then
her teagowns and all of the couch cush
slsilble with simply the hair that Is really Ions have the fragrance of the blossom aba
rooted. Pome are like little Putch cops, chooses. If she's a violet, clusters of
and others bnvc frills of fine Mechlin lace tiny sachet bags hang among the rlbbone '
with satlu ribbon choux and ribbons, and the la,ces of her gown. Easily on
Moreover, these nightcaps are even mora can make the sachet bags so that they !
valuable as morning, caps, when, for In- look like "violets, fashioning the petals ,
stance, your best friend runs Into your from a soft, pliable silk. The roses that '
bedroom to hays a chat, while you're hav- are really sachet bags, hanging In clusters i
Ing breakfast In bed. Even her keen eye n a floral teagown, are made of lustrous 1
which records every detail and treasures pink satin, and with yellow silk one makes
It for Quick delivery In the neit boudoir, French knots to Imltute the golden heart,
where she stops to gossip) can't detect So be the flower of your family. "Con
whether your hair Is under the cap or slder the lily," not the vegetable. Arro
stowed away In a drawer. In London gato unto yourself much Importance, and
these nlgbtcups are even worn at the the- be mindful that coquetry, like charity, be- ;
atre under picture hats. instead of, for gins at home.
Do Women Prefer Charming Rogues?
By MRS. CEORGE NORMAN.
IF we were content to take our opinions In many rases, be far less so. than the
of the Eternal Feminine from .the emnaly-reapectntile. highly-respected thing
paper that soothes our shattered of petty vices that so often a woman must
nerves at breaiifast time, we might too call "hushand."
rashly conclude that woman has an Inner- we are. of course, nowadays, mnny of
ent liking. If not an actual preference. s, men and women alike, far too sentjmeo.
for the conventional scoundrel. tally Inclined toward the scoundrel. There
But, before arguing thus from the par- ig a pont of m(iown,ag an(1 ef.
Meular to the general, and allowing the fem'nnncy In the history of Society at
sum of our knowledge of the heart of wn!ch Society takes the part of him who
woman to be circumscribed by exciting njre, ftt toe part of th)J j,, an(,
heed-lines, many things shouhl be taken does BOi , fJcti r0g,y ,, hot,eitlTi
Into consideration. and a section of the eommurttty seem al-
In the first plae. there la in this conn- rn6y (0 baT reachM tbflt po(nt Rnt
try a most singular dearth of men In so- whlJe fn)ly bcevInj, , , Mne Bnd flrm
ciety. and the opportunities that the aver- j,tc, ,ne necessity of punishment and Its
age respectable woman baa of meeting a ruefulness. It may be aVinceded that not
prospective husband are. in many eaaea, infrequently the scoundrel, whose sins
extraordlonr'.ly limited. bring him within rescb of tha law (for we
Hence the otherwise absolutely lncom- have In tbe midst of us slumowners.
prehensible success of the matrimonial ad- ieaters," managers with chortis-glrls at
vertlseiuenL f"f rv-,nl l,fe " s0 con' weekly salary of IT.BO. and others who
structed thst hundreds of yonng men snd pim f(,r DprleQt men)i 1he goonnre'. f
women never meet others of their age, oai ,ornetmei ..way wltn hm-. g,
and ha severest monaitle regulations ippeall ,0 our 0I
could not more The same Im.glnatlon which, run riot
from association with b ttrted tbe bigamist on his career of
,he dreary mmiotony of the aauy rou ,dT,ntur blm , nrmpt.
as lived In many quiet t'(-es- - thetlc U'lght In desllng with women; tha
Th It hss been said thst no man mi.applied,
mleershle but that be can "r h rlvfD , ,Um e( d,,i.ln.7lr,oM
rome woman who will be mora '" t0 hi. ill deed. is. st any rate. les. repul-
till for his sake. And 00 rn p v gJyi 1Jt (b( ,elf. regarding prudence of
tbe worn of criminals must flna a wiie- b hypocr,t voXMet ao(j ,B tni,r
nut the .Moriouf b pmlihi alt r EmtnoB thlt Uw-.bldlng cltixen. remark-
deed, we h.ve of lata fc;J"B'"'ri; ed. "bruisers and pirate, are of bettor pro-
fc.rdly. a. matter of fact, throw jr-ncb ETerytnIn)
light 00 tt qoestloa wbrtl her r.0 TnllllT, ao to Ceec, .
women prefer scotin rtr" 7 . ; , young man of means of a considerable por-
almost every case. tloa of bl. beloaglng of eren to entr.p
men. nd have. ,"'r,'rt7v Uotjgb "", -nia Into a bogus marrlago. Is
the women tbev m.rr fw0 wveh
H- 1. essT to be , that passes aa mare worldy wlsdona the
wh.t. in . rl. . "7"b;,V Bi gola, back on a fri.nd In trouble, or deal-
dent. cannot be MingM I. F ..rk. or the . dents.
Landed Oentry. " " ""' How oftea lo tbe countriea of dowerles.
.rwtim." .. W tba UUlrt th. .mKb- Ht tb, ,ry ef Qolt.
toagarf aad rM 7 rte mtm man .uatad. aad la that aenM
er. Their " r tB, tM . wif with tb.
it la tra. mlfkt ilfferc, that th. -Uta- . at kntt f.
kT,t anapkioai U dot tbe aeatimeat whlc
co,ea apperrat-t la a bat sjageeacoaa ..r , MM
11 rlaaee ta which Tha aroaea of tbe epc-er eiaasea of ao-
: raa m a ft U elety ara lik.-to. crated with a to-der-
by o seesae Zt th. wa. to for kMrea aad rogoea. Aa thj,k
HraWpart her aarl.ga toward, th. .ay ba tree that there i. o
' , -at srpesll to sromea'a dee-vest Inariarts
xpeaaaai of the bom. M e.ty aad rwr to tbe osraword
- Aad arbea all la east aad . the char- JJ,f,eJ ". 7M or-dwelt. yet taa
tmrm uaiidral tba b Ira scan, tie for g or- .( her at psreat aremaaeea for the
aa bo carceC? asora oictloWa, aaay,
a Double purpose.
example, a colffura that la betonsled, pla-
p tiffs that are crocked, a bewitching cap
Is aecn when your heavy hat la taken off
at the mat! oce. And hers you bare a
theatre fashion that had Its origin In "tba
coquetries of home."
Then Bitch aa odd design there Is for a
ten gown of a daring sort it was sug
gested by tha plctnra of a war hero aetn
on an ancient rasa. Imagine wearing a
costume like that of one of the rhoraohs.
All London was agbast at this Ideal Take
Artaxcrxea Longltnanus, a giant Thsroah,
whom one sees la pictures, illustrating the
history of Fvnf. His arms are bare an1'
he weara bracelets, one at the wrist and
one below the shoulder on each arm. He
wore a atralght kilt, or a shcntl. reaching
to the knees. The tea gown designed from
this Pharaoh costume has the shcntl, bnt
It Is worn over a soft flowing skirt wltb
a train, and chiffon floats from the shout'
der. And, then, as Cholly reminds me.
In keeping with .the false hair that the
women wear to-day fth( adjustable trans
formation, the Pharaoh's beard was like
wise detachable. n tied It on with a
string! Wltb a gown of this sort, one
wears an ancient necklace and scarabs
set In gold. The embroidery on a tea gown
of this design should. If possible, show
the svmbols of ancient Kgvpt done In silk.
Jnst look at the picture (0) on this page.
The bird at the right on the corsage
means motherhood. The little lantern on
a hook Is really an Inkpot, and Is the sign
for a scribe. .The horse had a meaning,
but this I forget. In anr event, a duchess
In London had her Pharaoh te8 gown
decorated In this way with the three sym
bols to call attention to her versatility,
her success as a writer of novels, her ex",
celleoce aa a mother and her love for
hunting and ontdoor sports.
There are elaborate teagown., 0r house
gowns, made, for example, of monssellne
de solo, embroidered In gold and draped
over aralla pink silk. There Is also the !
Idealization of the old Mother Hubbard,
all Its comfort without Its ugliness. Soft
silk In accordion plaiting falls from under
the arms In straight lines. Over this a i
Mtfle Jacket of Irish lace Is worn. This
1s one of the teagowns with long snmh rib- ''
bona with which you can easily keep ymir !
hubby In Arm and loving leash tied to
your ribbons as securely as ever he wns as i
n "kiddie" to mother's apron strings, haug- 1
log around while she beat the batror for
tbe cake. But you can accomplish It
without beating the batter. 1
Sometimes a lady decides she'll be a '
tnssspiaat tLia-a raAsUaa aaooired. I